Dual Thickstun, Throttle Rod

[burly]

Guys the original 10.5" throttle rod wouldn't reach my front carburetor so I shortened another throttle rod and pull off the rear carb. It works but seem awfully stiff and the angle appears a little steep. Are most you guys pulling off the front carburetor with a dual set up and would that make any difference as far as the amount of gas pedal friction? Thanks

[Tim Ayers]

I have a copy of the original Thickstun advertisement. It shows the choke and the throttle being pulled from the rear carb.

[Kerk]

My set up is the drivers side are tied to together with the ball type linkage and the passenger side of botrh look like original location so I would think I could use either original ball but it might require bending the original type rod . My set up is not in the vehicle at this time.. Sounded GREAT when Walt fired it up! Kerk

[Bored&Stroked]

On my 32 Cab, I'm running a tall Eddie Meyer 2 pot intake - which is very similar in height to a Thickstun or original Tattersfield. I took the stock 32 rod and shortened it to reach the rear carb. I have a good quality ball-bearing linkage on the driver's side. The carbs (Stromberg 48's) open really easily, no friction issues to be concerned with.

[Talkwrench]

Are you using 97's? Just remember this is critical as the arc of the pull goes from about 1-2 o'clock and then RISES UP at 12 o'clock and then falls away back to about 9 o'clock if youre pulling straight back I believe it puts a lot of strain on the butterfly bushes and they'll flog out very quick.. You have to have a good think about how youre going to do it. I went of the rear cab.

[Tim Ayers]

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Originally Posted by Talkwrench

Are you using 97's? Just remember this is critical as the arc of the pull goes from about 1-2 o'clock and then RISES UP at 12 o'clock and then falls away back to about 9 o'clock if youre pulling straight back I believe it puts a lot of strain on the butterfly bushes and they'll flog out very quick.. You have to have a good think about how youre going to do it. I went of the rear cab.

If you are using the stock type "slider cup" that goes over the ball end of the carb, I'm having trouble understanding how geometry would make any difference since it's sliding around on the ball as is moves within the arc.

Please don't take this as confrontational, I'm just trying to understand why it would bind or cause excess pressure on the shaft.

[Talkwrench]

Because if its pulling straight back it puts stress on it as its not working the arc, it will do it but.. This is more for when running off the rear carbs as it 'short' . Just try it with you hand . Attach the rod and just try work it like it would if it was attached to the firewall. Guess this depends on your car as well. All I know is with mine; 35 pickup with a slingshot setup it was obvious and took a long time, I made my own linkage and it kind of ended up a Z shape, the carb end was slightly higher. I had to make a stop setup as well for the firewall linkage. Its was all angle of the dangle to make it all work full throttle as well..

[burly]

Yes I'm running 97's and the original slider cup throttle rod is at around a 90 degree angle when attached to the rear carb from the original firewall rod. I have the Offy dual linkage on the driver's side that operates smoothly by hand. Just seems to take considerable more pressure to open throttle from the pedal. Just thought pulling from the front carb might alleviate some of that pedal pressure? Thanks fellas!

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by burly

Just thought pulling from the front carb might alleviate some of that pedal pressure? Thanks fellas!

Well, a longer rod could surely change the angle - which might be a good thing. Take a picture of your setup and post it - would like to see how it compares to my EM setup. I'll post a picture of mine as well.

B&S