A couple of Model A questions

[jefferzbooboo]

I have a 1929 Model A Tudor Sedan that I helped my Grandpa restore about 15 years ago, we did all the work on a frame up restoration except for the seat upholstery and stretching the top. I wished I would have paid more attention when building it. He has since passed away and the car hasn't ran in over 7 years.
My questions are:
1. Is there anything special I need to do before I try to get it running other than what you would do normally on an older car?
2. I remember him saying the motor was different than a regular motor. I think something like it was from Canada, or it was a different color, something along the lines of that. It was painted a dark blue-greenish color when we got it. Is there any merit to that?
3. He said there was missing chrome pieces for the trunk, I don't recall what though. Could someone please help identify what's missing.

I appreciate anyone taking the time to read my post and I'm looking forward to getting some incite on my questions. Since the restoration it's only had 4 miles put on it, but I plan on putting it in a few parades and car shows if I can get it running.

Here's a full picture and a picture of the trunk:

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by jefferzbooboo

I have a 1929 Model A Tudor Sedan that I helped my Grandpa restore about 15 years ago, we did all the work on a frame up restoration except for the seat upholstery and stretching the top. I wished I would have paid more attention when building it. He has since passed away and the car hasn't ran in over 7 years.
My questions are:
1. Is there anything special I need to do before I try to get it running other than what you would do normally on an older car?
2. I remember him saying the motor was different than a regular motor. I think something like it was from Canada, or it was a different color, something along the lines of that. It was painted a dark blue-greenish color when we got it. Is there any merit to that?
3. He said there was missing chrome pieces for the trunk, I don't recall what though. Could someone please help identify what's missing.

I appreciate anyone taking the time to read my post and I'm looking forward to getting some incite on my questions. Since the restoration it's only had 4 miles put on it, but I plan on putting it in a few parades and car shows if I can get it running.

Here's a full picture and a picture of the trunk:

I believe if you do a little research you are going to find your Tudor is closer to a 1931 model. That doesn't diminish the fun that it will give back to you but it is something you probably want to know.

Regarding question #1, do a search in the archives here and you will find all the information on how to bring one back after a prolonged storage, and also instruction on how to operate your vehicle.

You 2nd question is possible however there are some other item that would likely give clues regarding that. Since I see other areas of deviation from being assembled authentically, it is possible the color of the engine was deviated from the original Ford Engine Green too.

I cannot see the picture of the trunk clearly enough to see if there are any holes from where the chrome pieces were not re-installed however the trunk is an accessory item and was not originally manufactured with your vehicle.



Allow me to be the first to welcome you to Fordbarn and I wish you much happiness with your Sedan as you re-live memories and honor your Grandfather as the car's new caregiver!!

[Patrick L.]

It sure looks like a '31 to me too.. I can't tell what model or year John Deere that is, but, it sure looks pretty..

[tierod]

Pretty car. Love the color combo.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

a few pics of the engine bay, including the firewall around the fuel outlet will tell us some info about the year model of the car and any obvious engine modifications you might want to know. The bet bet is to find your local club. There will be guys there who can tell you volumes once they see it.
Before starting, change the oil, and anti freeze if there is some in there, otherwise check the water level. It should be about 2 inches below the top of the radiator. check the oil level in the trans and rear end by removing the fill plug and sticking your finger in there. It should touch oil within one finger joint length. Remove the spark plugs and squirt some oil in there, then turn the engine over with the plugs out a few times to spread it around. Replace the plugs.

Check the gas tank for the odor of bad gas. These days it goes bad within a month. You might have to drain the tank and re fill it. At the least, drain the lower level of gas from the tank, fuel lines and the carburetor. Todays gas absorbs water from the air and it can come out of solution and settle in the bottom.

Now give it a try starting it.

turn on the gas shut off valve. Set the spark advance ( left lever) fully up, set the throttle lever ( right lever) so the gas pedal drops a little. Turn the choke knob open ( left) one full turn, less if its a warm day. Pull the choke knob for only the first 2 or 3 cranks of the starter, then snap it open as you crank the starter. Do not turn the starter on endlessly as its bad for both it and the battery.. After a few seconds of cranking, stop, rest a few seconds, then try again. A good Ford will start right up almost immediately.

As soon as it starts, move the spark lever down half way. Adjust the gas valve ( the choke knob) by turning it right until the engine runs well. Once warm you will probably turn it all the way shut to 1/4 open.

look around and see if there is an operators manual around in Grampas books. It tells you all you need to start and drive the car. Reproductions are available very cheaply, and worth several times the cost.

good luck

and welcome to Fordbarn

[jefferzbooboo]

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Thanks everyone for the replies! It is a 1931, did some digging and found it out. Unfortunetly I don't have a Model A Club around me, I live in very rural ND. I don't have any of the manuals or books he had, everything got sold in an auction sale. Is there a specific manuals I should get, ie like Chilton bramd?
I'll try to get pictures of the motor and a better one of the trunk tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone for the responses, it is very much appreciated. The John Deere D is a 1926 and still gets used every year pulling a 2 bottom plow and little cultivator for my garden.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by jefferzbooboo

Thanks everyone for the replies! It is a 1931, did some digging and found it out. Unfortunetly I don't have a Model A Club around me, I live in very rural ND. I don't have any of the manuals or books he had, everything got sold in an auction sale. Is there a specific manuals I should get, ie like Chilton bramd?
I'll try to get pictures of the motor and a better one of the trunk tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone for the responses, it is very much appreciated. The John Deere D is a 1926 and still gets used every year pulling a 2 bottom plow and little cultivator for my garden.

I would be certain there is a Model A'er near you. Just because there is no chapter locally does not mean a national club member is not nearby. It just might happen a nearby A'er will read your post and contact you. It would benefit you to join one or both National Clubs, MAFCA and MARC, to get the monthly magazines for tips on the cars and the rosters to find nearby Model A folks.

regarding books: the essential book is the Operators Manual. The Service Bulletins, Model A Mechanics Handbook, and Restoration and Judging Standards would be good additions to your library. No one book is complete, you need at least the first three.

One of the Sticky Threads above has resources for parts listed. Most of those suppliers will have the books I mention.

[Steam Engine Pete]

What rural part of North Dakota? That leaves alot of area. If it was close enough to me I would be tempted to drive over sometime. Nice D, I have one also.

Pete

[700rpm]

It's important for you to indicate your location when you sign up for this forum. Then we can be more specific in how we address your problems, and advise you about nearby help.

Good luck with your car. It looks like a good one.

[CWPASADENA]

Very nice Tudor and it is special to you as you and your Grandpaw restored it. The only problem I see is there is not enough miles on it. When you get it running, drive it and enjoy it.

There is a very good set of three books written by Les Andrews that have a world of information on the repair and maintenance of Model As. There are several good parts dealers who will have them. I use Brattons WWW.BRATTONS.COM (800) 255-1929 and Bert's WWW.MODELASTORE.COM (800) 321-1931.

If you can keep the John Deer running, you will not have any problem with the Model A.

Before you try to start it, I would suggest you pull the plugs and put a little oil into each cylinder and crank the engine a bit to get everything lubed up a bit. Drain any old gas and put in fresh gas. Re-install the plugs, it may fire right up.

Good lick and keep us posted.

Welcome to The Barn, Chris

[jefferzbooboo]

I took a couple of pictures of the motor. I plan on ordering the manuals and a new air filter from Little Dearborn tomorrow, that's were Grandpa got his parts from so I figured that was as good as place as any to order from and they're close by. I did some tinkering on it this weekend, changed the oil and anti freeze, checked the brakes to make sure they weren't frozen, etc. I also ordered a new battery.
Here's some pics of the motor:

[Fred K-OR]

Welcome to the Barn. Looks like a great car to have fun with.

In your last picture, is there something missing on your choke rod? Like the spring and washer??????

[midgetracer]

I live in Bismarck, If you get in a bind, let me know and I will be happy to help you. I do have quite a collection of books if you want to look through some before you buy. I get most of my parts from Snyders. They are a solid source of quality parts.

[dr.j]

Interesting, a powerhouse genny and cast fuel filter? Join a local club and you will find a wealth of information is available.

[James Rogers]

Looks like the year is either a very early 31 or a 30 with a 31 radiator shell. Looks pretty good under the hood, just old and neglected. When you get the battery, make sure you hook it up with the positive as the ground. After it is installed, check for fire at the points by making sure the points are open and the switch is on and short across them at the tip with a screwdriver. If you have trouble with the fuel/air mix after it is running, check the top flange on that tilly carb. They are notorious for warping.

[George Miller]

Looks like a nice car. You might want to check for a mice nest in the tail pipe if you have trouble with it not running right. Looks like you might have some mice running around in the engine compartment. Good luck with the car, and drive it as much as you can. That is what they were made for. It will also remind you of the good times you had with Grandpa.

[Richard Wilson]

Nice Model A. Top three books to get in order of importance to a new owner IN MY OPINION are:
1. Les Andrews Vol 1 "Model A Mechanics Handbook" has the red cover
2. Ford "Service Bulletins"
3. MARC/MAFCA "Model A Restoration Guidelines and Judging Standards"

All of these are available from any/all Model A Reproduction Parts vendors.

Biggest problem for bringing the car out of storage will be the fuel system. Check for "naked wires" chewed by the mice. Clean points and set on .018-.022. Positive ground 6-V Group 1 battery. It should run.

If there are no holes in the trunk I would not worry to much about missing chrome pieces (probably cornor pieces) as you will probably not find the pieces without buying another trunk. Your trunk looks good as is.

Finally I love your John Deere! I have a early 53 Model 40S.

[1930artdeco]

Welcome to the club Jeff. Very nice looking car and you hae great roads to drive her on back there! I was looking at the top pic of the engine and noticed something, check the head nuts. It looks like either they are leaking in the middle or the head is may be cracked? The pic is little fuzzy so I can't tell. If they are leaking just retorque them and drive away.

Mike

[jefferzbooboo]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm really looking forward to getting it to run again. I put steel wool in all open holes awhile ago, including exhaust, and everything is were I left it so I don't think the mice got into anything besides the top of the motor and the cab doesn't smell. I traced all the wires and didn't see any bare wires.
I ordered the Service Bulletins, Owners Manual, Model A Mechanics Handbook, a fan belt, and an air filter element for it this morning.
I think I'm going to take off the trunk, I don't really like the looks of it and the chrome is pitted and starting to rust pretty bad.
Thanks again everyone for the help. You guys have been more than helpful.

[Brentwood Bob]

Not as familiar with cars stored in the midwest, but corrosion at the electrical connections especially the battery ground cable at the cross frame will need to be checked. You want bright clean tight connections. When you get ready to fire the engine you will check for fire at the distributor and work out from there. See if you get a good drainout of coolant from the drain on the lower hose. I have seen bridging of rust above the brass drain and had to go deeper to get the coolant drained out.
Welcome. Bob