Antifreeze? Or something else?

[Brobrian]

I've been running antifreeze in my pickup. The thing doesn't overheat. It over-froths. Foam builds up in the filler neck and spills out onto the hood and shell ruining the paint.
I've seen posts about head gasket leaks and such making this happen, but there is no other evidence that this is the case. I truly think the water pump impeller just churns up a mess. Since I live in SoCal, and it doesn't freeze here, is there something else I could use in the radiator as a rust inhibitor?

[RonC]

yes, use a waterpump lubricant and anti rust additive. You need both. Check with your auto part store, they should have it.

http://www.crcindustries.com/catalog...uids/05335.jpg

[jj1928]

try Water Wetter. It is a rust inhibitor and also helps kee the engine cooler. I've been using it in mine for about six years with no problems.

[Jordan]

Sierra Brand anti freeze doesn't foam.

[t42]

Why run anti-freeze if you don't need it? The "water wetter" is a great idea. You did not say if you are running straight anti-freeze or a 50/50 mixture or a %. Your radiator overflow pipe should drain away a frothy mixture assuming the rad. cap is sealing properly. It might be plugged or new rad. cap might be needed. Just a thought. Good luck.

[1931 flamingo]

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This has been discussed here before, try doing a search.
Paul in CT

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Brobrian

I've been running antifreeze in my pickup. The thing doesn't overheat. It over-froths. Foam builds up in the filler neck and spills out onto the hood and shell ruining the paint.
I've seen posts about head gasket leaks and such making this happen, but there is no other evidence that this is the case. I truly think the water pump impeller just churns up a mess. Since I live in SoCal, and it doesn't freeze here, is there something else I could use in the radiator as a rust inhibitor?

I'm on left coast also. I ran antifreeze mix in new rebuild for years. I then had/have same thots as you...WHY? I then flushed engine with block flush and installed 'rust inhibitor' about two years ago. Water is still clear/clean and no worries of antifreeze unintended consequences
I just have to wonder should that rust inhibitor be 'changed' occasionally or just ADDED to
FYI- try draining anti freeze. Fill with water. Run engine up to normal operating temp. Take radiator cap off and run rpm up while watching for bubbles/foam. That will likely give you some more information to work with...depending on what you see.

BTW- you DON'T have to install water pump lube stuff...if you have a sealed pump!

[Brobrian]

Flushed radiators on both A's and added water wetter. The instructions indicate a higher boiling temp when added to a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Tried it with no foaming on a brief test.
Now, I have an excuse for a long test drive up several hills.
Thanks guys.

[columbiA]

I use straight water with a cup of water soluble oil for rust prevention.& drain for the winter if not using the car.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

water wetter has only a little rust inhibitor in it. One of my engines got pretty rusty water after a short time with only water wetter in it. Within 2 years of using it, the ( original Ford) radiator developed many pinholes. I have heard from others of pinholes developing in their radiators after using water wetter. There are 2 types of anti freeze: Ethylene glycol and Propylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is most common and will foam in an unpressurized system. Propylene glycol does not foam, and will not poison your animals or children if they drink it, like ethylene could. Antifreeze tastes sweet and is responsible for about 3000 human poisonings a year, and around 10 thousand companion and wild animal poisonings a year. Its slightly more expensive, but worth the trade off, especially since it will not foam in an unpressurized radiator. Sierra is Propylene glycol.

http://www.sierraantifreeze.com/benefit.html#11

[Contenderizer]

Hi Guys,

I am a newbe to Model A's, having just purchased a 29 pick-up. Radiator maintenance is one of my many questions, so I guess this thread is a good start. Here goes:

1) I live in Florida, but far enough north that it freezes from time-to-time. I guess a propylene glycol is my best bet?

2) How full should the radiator be? Should I be able to see fluid when I remove the radiator cap when cold? Currently I can not.

2) There is a plastic tube inside of the radiator that can be seen when the cap is removed. It seems to go down INTO the radiator. Is this the overflow or something to do with the Moto-Meter (see below)?

3) My Moto-Meter never shows any kind of temp reading. I thought I would test same with a cup of hot water. Any other ideas? My engine seems to be running fine with no indication of overheating.

4) Where is the thermostat located? Do I need to run one at all?


My engine is a 4 cylinder Model B and is equipped with a Rupert Leakless Pump.
Thanks in advance........

[Tom Wesenberg]

You don't need to run a thermostat and the car didn't have one from the factory, but I like to use one. I slipped a thermostat into the lower end of the top hose and held it in place by slipping in a 3" length of hose that fits tight inside the radiator hose. I use 50 % regular antifreeze and have no problems with foaming.

The cooling system will hold 3 gallons, but you only use about 2 and 1/2 gallons. The coolant will usually be just below the splash plate, so it isn't easily viewed when the engine is stopped.

[Brobrian]

As for the motor meter, they vary as to range but I can usually see a little red on the thermometer after the engine warms up on very cold days. On temperate days it's easy to see the line extend toward the top. I had one that I thought wasn't working. Turns out it was just oriented so that it couldn't be read from the drivers seat. You might check that before replacing it.

[ford1]

if the pump is causing foam , no matter what you add to the radiator its going to foam, but if you dont want to run antifreeze, which i think is a mistake, but a bottle of soluble oil at the parts store and add it to your radiator

[Louis]

This is one subject every one has an opin. on, I had a problem sim. to this two years ago with my 31, I was getting anti-freeze from under my rad. cap, I also did not think it was overheating untill I bought a infrared therm. gun and found out after a drive with the eng. at idle the cly. head temp was 190- 220 deg's. I flushed it a few times although it looked clean and green, no help, I fin. took the rad. to a rad. shop that deals with older cars and had it cleaned out, [rodded I think] I never had another problem.
The guy that owned the shop has been working on older rad's. for over 40 years and is well thought of around town, He told me that if your older car is running riight, but is overheating or over flowing, you probley have a rad. problem, And that if your car will over heat/over flow with 50/50 anti-freeze that it will do the same with stright water or anything else, and that anti-freeze does have a rust inhibtor and prevent's corrosion and that I should 50/50 where ever I live.
It cost me $110, but I was about to pay around $600 for a new brass-works rad.
That's my story and MHO. Your problem might be comp. diff. good luck.

[hardtimes]

Contenderizer,
#2 (second 2) there's no plastic hose inside the radiator that I'm aware of ? That tube that you see should be copper and leads to outside (left) and becomes 'overflow' tube.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Contenderizer,
#2 (second 2) there's no plastic hose inside the radiator that I'm aware of ? That tube that you see should be copper and leads to outside (left) and becomes 'overflow' tube.

I was thinking someone installed a short plastic tube to raise the tube height to near the cap to help prevent coolant loss out the overflow.

[1931 flamingo]

Per #17. On my 31 I formed the o/flow tube per the s/bulletins and after seeing someone else had put a short tube on his to bring it up to the top, I did the same. I've also placed about a 6 penny nail into the tube. The car seems to be 'happy" now.
FWIW
Paul in CT

[Contenderizer]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all of the help. I'll give my Moto-Meter a test in the kitchen and see if it will show any kind of temperature rise. I'll also look for coolant (or water) just below the splash plate. The tube is definitely plastic and comes up to the very top of the radiator opening - well above the splash plate. I suspect it is an extension of the copper tube as others have suggested. Again, many thanks for sharing your experience.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Contenderizer,

modern moto meters seldom work correctly. The originals work well if they work at all. Placing yours in hot water with a candy thermometer can give you reference points for temp indicated by wherever the red fluid rises. But many of todays repro moto meters only rise about 1/4 inch at operating temp. I found an original on whee bay for some other brand car ( Model A meters sell too high) and replaced the name plate with the one from my repop .