Westach Ammeters.

[Y-Blockhead]

While perusing the Westach website this morning I noticed they have NEW! 1.5" ammeter or voltmeter that they claim fits the Model A. I am sure they are better than the gauge we get from the vendors as I have used Westach tachs in the past with no issues.

Thought some may be interested.

https://www.westach.com/ammeters?Size=1.5%2522

[Joe K]

I'm not sure 30-0-30 is original. Maybe good for "modern" generator & etc.

The originals of my acquisition are all 20-0-20. Some are chrome ring (or something shiny) Others are flat black ring. These might be from truck service.

Joe K

[Jim/GA]

It looks good. The side view photo of the ammeter makes it look much deeper than a stock ammeter.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Joe K

I'm not sure 30-0-30 is original. Maybe good for "modern" generator & etc.

The originals of my acquisition are all 20-0-20. Some are chrome ring (or something shiny) Others are flat black ring. These might be from truck service.

Joe K

Joe, look at the link. Westach also offers a 20-0-20 ammeter. Never said they were original.

Originally Posted by Jim/GA

It looks good. The side view photo of the ammeter makes it look much deeper than a stock ammeter.

It does, but it doesn't appear the wire terminals/nuts are hanging out the back. We will see, I just ordered one.

FYI, if you order one and your car is 12v, ask them to install a 12v bulb as it come with 6v bulb. Yes these are back lit.

[stevests]

They can provide a 20-20 if need be. Consider the thickness as being a precise instrument compared the the import crap !

[J Franklin]

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Originally Posted by Joe K

I'm not sure 30-0-30 is original. Maybe good for "modern" generator & etc.

Joe K

They show a 20-0-20 on their site.

[nkaminar]

They look like nice instruments. I especially like the fact that they are back lit as I drive at night occasionally.

For those of you who have an alternator and don't care to be totally original, I would recommend a voltmeter. It is more useful for checking the health of the battery before starting and during starting, and the health of the alternator once the engine has charged the battery. The voltmeter should register 7 volts for the 6 volt system and 14 volts for a 12 volt system after a few minutes drive time. The voltmeter can also be used to check the health of the starter motor.

[ndnchf]

This is very interesting. I'd like to hear feedback from those who purchase a 20 amp version. Does it fit well in the dash? It does look very deep. How accurate is it?

I just rebuilt another generator for my '31 pickup and installed a new EVR. It currently has a Nurex 30 amp gauge that I'd like to replace with a quality 20 amp.

[TomInCologne]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

They look like nice instruments. I especially like the fact that they are back lit as I drive at night occasionally.

For those of you who have an alternator and don't care to be totally original, I would recommend a voltmeter. It is more useful for checking the health of the battery before starting and during starting, and the health of the alternator once the engine has charged the battery. The voltmeter should register 7 volts for the 6 volt system and 14 volts for a 12 volt system after a few minutes drive time. The voltmeter can also be used to check the health of the starter motor.

interesting thought and please check:


i have an alternator, so if i put in a voltmeter, i can connect the two posts in the little electrical box directly. The Voltmeter needs just one connection to one of the posts and another one to ground. I think that is actually less of a fire hazard and it also reduces the wiring behind the (cramped) dash...

[nkaminar]

Yes. That is how the voltmeter would be wired up. The wire from the electrical box to the voltmeter and from the voltmeter to ground can be a small gauge. It does not carry a lot of current, just voltage.

In my car I have the ammeter in the normal location and a voltmeter below in an aftermarket bracket. I never look at the ammeter but check the voltmeter instead.

[Joe K]

This is very interesting. I'd like to hear feedback from those who purchase a 20 amp version. Does it fit well in the dash? It does look very deep. How accurate is it?

Interesting request. In the 1990s there was a brand of Model A Ammeter that became available: it looked like a dandy repop and included actual thumb-nuts on the back side. It even came in a tan-colored box in apparent emulation of the original Ammeter.

AHA thinks I at the time - FINALLY someone has come up with something to replace the pressed aluminum device called an ammeter.

My disappointment when the new ammeter was found a "skosh too small" for the opening. The ears BARELY caught the edges of the opening.

A rubber o-ring could be used along with the ears to make something that would work - and stay in place reasonably well.

But that was not a cheap repop - it could have been made right easily enough at that price.




Joe K

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

They look like nice instruments. I especially like the fact that they are back lit as I drive at night occasionally.

For those of you who have an alternator and don't care to be totally original, I would recommend a voltmeter. It is more useful for checking the health of the battery before starting and during starting, and the health of the alternator once the engine has charged the battery. The voltmeter should register 7 volts for the 6 volt system and 14 volts for a 12 volt system after a few minutes drive time. The voltmeter can also be used to check the health of the starter motor.

Originally Posted by ndnchf

This is very interesting. I'd like to hear feedback from those who purchase a 20 amp version. Does it fit well in the dash? It does look very deep. How accurate is it?

Would the voltmeter have a continuous draw if wired that way. I think it would have to be switch?

[Alwaysamopar74]

I recently took a gamble on this one. The price was right and the transaction went great. I even ordered a second one just to have. The bezel is raw aluminum color not chrome. It's been working just fine for months now. Seems good quality not cheap Chinese. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144710704730

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

This is very interesting. I'd like to hear feedback from those who purchase a 20 amp version. Does it fit well in the dash? It does look very deep. How accurate is it?

They appear to be made to order? I received this e-mail after I ordered. "Thank you for your order. We will ship your ammeter as soon as we complete the assembly and calibration". I was also told the they would install a 12v bulb in it for me (6v is standard).

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Alwaysamopar74

I recently took a gamble on this one. The price was right and the transaction went great. I even ordered a second one just to have. The bezel is raw aluminum color not chrome. It's been working just fine for months now. Seems good quality not cheap Chinese. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144710704730

These would be the ammeter that was available from quality parts houses BEFORE the thought better quality meter I mention above.

I couldn't fault my "pressed aluminum device." It fit and it worked. I think then it was $4 from Tams - until Tam showed me the more expensive replacement I described above.

Might be a good one to put in the toolbox for "trips." The ammeter sort of doubles as a fuse in the world of Ford economy.

Joe K

[Bob Bidonde]

Westach's prices are extremely high.
The most commonly used current sensing mechanism in DC ammeters is aa D’Arsonval meter movement. The D’Arsonval movement is a DC coil-type movement in which the needle is suspended by springs & centered between the poles of an electromagnet.
The price of D'Arsonval meters is dependent on the pivot point of the needle. The Model A's ammeter has friction type (metal to metal) pivot supports which reduces its accuracy. To the contrary, more accurate & higher cost ammeters will have jeweled pivot points like the Weston meters.
In my opinion, I see no value in spending big bucks for an ammeter or voltmeter for the Model A.
In the 2023 catalogs of the major Model A parts dealers, I notice that the stock 20Amp ammeter is not listed, but the 30Amp one is listed for less than $20.

[Joe K]

Westach's prices are extremely high.

It may be justified for some.

My transition from the "pressed aluminum device" to something thought better was "appearance." Chrome is chrome and aluminum is aluminum, and although the couple of original ammeters in my hoard were "age apparent" I hoped to do better than the aluminum device.

As I said, the aluminum device was about $4 in 1990, and the thought better was $29.95. A big step for me - but the box was attractive and probably clinched the deal.

Today with inflation those prices are about double, with one seller on Ebay listing the exact "thought better and box" at nearly $150.

Caviet emptor on that one - perhaps they've solved the mis-fit in the dash?

It's always fun to pick up a dashboard at Epping Antique Auto Flea Market for $5 that shows its age, but includes the ammeter - which still works. I paint the escutcheon flat black and it ALWAYS fits.

Joe K

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Westach's prices are extremely high.

Typical Model A mentality. We bitch about cheap parts not fitting or working correctly then we bitch about the price of a quality part.

I have had a Westberg Manufacturing Inc. (Westach)volt meter since 2010 and it still working perfect. BTW, it cost $49.95 back in February 2010.

The last $20 ammeter i received had the needle laying on the bottom of the gauge.

[Dino's A]

I have had a few chepo ammeters go bad. Yep, the most popular complaint is
the needle popping off. I for one will get one of these better units. I need
reliability in my cars, not breakdowns.

[nkaminar]

Ruth,

The current draw for a voltmeter is very low. It would probably be OK to have it on all the time if the car was driven on a regular basis. Or had a battery maintainer when parked for a while. Or had a master battery switch that was turned off while parked for a while (and a battery maintainer).

In my car the voltmeter is wired to the ignition switch. I have the modern switch with the wiring changed so that the coil does not have voltage when off.