Removing 1947 Transmission

[RKS.PA]

I need to remove the transmission in my '47 Super Deluxe to replace the pressure plate. I know this subject has been discussed here before, most recently as "1941 Ford Transmission" on 9/29/17.

I'm opting for pushing the rear back in one piece to drop the trans. Could some please confirm that I won't need a spring spreader as long as I "C" clamp the spring leafs, once the ubolts are removed?

Thanks very much..........Dick.

[drolston]

The spring stays fastened to the shackles on both sides, so no spring spreader needed. Also, the spring center bolt that holds the spring pack together needs to stay in place.

[RKS.PA]

Thank you. That's what I thought and yes, I know about the center bolt, although I'm aware that some have failed in the past. So, I'm thinking the "C" clamps might be an extra measure of safety.

Dick.

[blucar]

The one problem with leaving the spring attached to the differential is that you will have to lift the rear portion of the car and additional 4/5" to get the spring out of the cross member pocket.
The added height of the rear portion of the car will require lifting the front of the car in order to get clearance to work under the car.
For all practical purposes, it can be easier to remove the engine for clutch work. An engine hoist (cherry picker) can be rented, you will have to remove the hood and drain the coolant, removing the radiator and disconnect a few wires. A support under the trans will be needed.
Pulling an engine from a flat head only takes less than an hour.
Put the car up on axle stands, then you have plenty of clearance to get at the trans bolts..
The clutch, etc., is easy to pull once the engine is out of the car.
Pulling the engine gives one a chance to clean the engine and engine compartment up before he engine is replaced.

[RKS.PA]

Thanks blucar. I am aware of the need to lift the rear to get the spring out of the pocket.

I just rebuilt the engine and for this one, you need to remove the hood, bumper, splash pan, etc. I am blessed to have a lift in my shop, so I have plenty of room to work under the car standing up! At my age, I can still get under the car on the ground. It's the getting out that gets me!!!

Dick.

[Phil Gillespie]

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Not exactly the same but similar. I did my 39 Coupe by:
Raising entire car up on axle stands front and rear.
Removed rear wheels and fitted rims only. Dropped it down clear of spring location.
Rolled back slightly on boards to dis-engauge front universal at g/box.
Did not need to disassemble any brake lines.
Was able to do this all by myself without assistance.I was happy with sliding rear end back for this job.
Phil NZ

[Ford Freak]

^^^ I did it the exact same way as Phil on my '37 . ^^^

[drolston]

Originally Posted by blucar

The one problem with leaving the spring attached to the differential is that you will have to lift the rear portion of the car and additional 4/5" to get the spring out of the cross member pocket.

I think the rear of the '47 is like my '41 in that the cross member is closed at the bottom, so the spring does not have to come down out of the cross member. But it does have to come down far enough to clear the U-bolts, which can only be partially pushed up out of the way; leaving about 3" sticking down.

[skidmarks]

Bottom of the crossmember is closed as mentioned above, and with the u bolts sticking down because you cant push them all the way up. Slips some hose or duct tape over the threads that will hit the spring pulling the rear. Keeps from boogin up the threads. Its easier then cleaning up the threads later if they get damaged

[edhd58]

you can use a floor jack under the spring end to remove each shackle, no spreader needed. thats how i did mine. pick up on the spring end to release pressure, remove shackle bolt then slowly lower spring end and do the other side.

[RKS.PA]

Thank you, Skid, for mentioning the need to project the threads on the U bolts from "buggering" as they get pushed up. Looks to me like re-threading them in place would be a bear, or maybe impossible. I will cover them. Yes, my spring is flat against the cross member, so not in a pocket.

Ed, I've done the same thing on my '39 where I've used the weight of the car to take the tension off the spring enough to remove the shackle....felt a lot more secure than my attempt at a spreader.....pipe plus all-thread and spade ends make out of smashed conduit!!

In this case, I think I can leave the shackles attached and just move everything back as a single unit....I hope.

Dick.

[dwick01]

RKS.PA, if you could, please keep us informed as you progress. I also have a '47 that I will have to change out the clutch. I have never done this before, and I want to do it by sliding the rear back as well. I'm not sure I understand exactly what all needs to be done.