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Old 12-02-2011, 01:42 AM   #1
Jeff M
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Default Engine Oil/Brand?

I'm going to change the oil in my '31 Coupe for the first time tomorrow, what brand and weight are you guys using? Any Zinc additive and if so how much?

Thanks
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:47 AM   #2
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

No zinc needed! No zinc in 1931 oil nor for years afterward. Believe zinc first was added in the '50's with the advent of OHV engines with their higher RPM's and heavier valve train needing stronger spring pressures.
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:55 AM   #3
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff M View Post
I'm going to change the oil in my '31 Coupe for the first time tomorrow, what brand and weight are you guys using? Any Zinc additive and if so how much?

Thanks
What brand - any
What weight - any
Zinc additive - if you want

All joking aside, any brand oil will work as will just about weight, straight from 30 - 50 has been used as well and any multi-weight 5-? has also been used. Some will say you need zinc some will say you don't. This is one of those topics that you will not get everyone to agree on, or even a majority to agree on.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:01 AM   #4
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Do a search. This has been discussed many times before with just as many recomendations.
Paul in CT
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:06 AM   #5
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Shell Rotella 15-40, since if you use anything else, the engine will blow up. LOL
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:12 AM   #6
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida View Post
What brand - any
What weight - any
Zinc additive - if you want

All joking aside, any brand oil will work as will just about weight, straight from 30 - 50 has been used as well and any multi-weight 5-? has also been used. Some will say you need zinc some will say you don't. This is one of those topics that you will not get everyone to agree on, or even a majority to agree on.

Yep.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:24 AM   #7
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Any of the oils today are better than what they had back then (the dinosaurs have been dead longer). If the engine is fairly new and clean I would use detergent as often as the oil is changed, even without the filter.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
Shell Rotella 15-40, since if you use anything else, the engine will blow up. LOL

Tom is right I use 10w-40 Valvoline and did blow a engine at the hill climb. I will switch to Rotella. Thanks Tom
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:38 AM   #9
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

I also use the Rotella 15-40 as Tom said. I got this recommendation from previous threads on this site.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:26 AM   #10
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Ford recommended S.A.E. 40 engine oil above 32 degrees
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:30 AM   #11
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

If I don't use 40 wt. I use Wallyworld 20w50. Price is right and good oil.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:35 AM   #12
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
Shell Rotella 15-40, since if you use anything else, the engine will blow up. LOL
Just as Tom said. I use it in 3 of my motors.
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:08 AM   #13
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Also a fan of Rotella. I run it in the Model A's and my 50s Fords as well for the past 15 years. Good stuff!!
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:14 AM   #14
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Any oil can work, the question you need to ask is what can the oil do for the engine.

Detergents keep dirt suspended so it does not form gunk. It does not suddenly bring all the existing dirt in to the oil as some would lead you to believe.

Additives prevent the formation of acids and other nasty chemicals that can harm your engine. Keep in mind that a car that sits a lot will accumulate condensate just from daily temp changes. This water mixes with stuff in the oil to produce acids. You can see the cool etching in old oil pans from this acid. Other additives protect the babbitt.

Zinc is only need for engines with very stiff valve springs, not what you find in the A. The current zinc levels are what was in oil back in the 1950's.

So you can buy oil without detergent and non additives.
They make oil without detergent but with additives.
Then there is the common multi weight oils with detergents and additives.
To go one step further there are compression ignition (diesel) rated oils which are tailored to more additives to protect for acid and additives to protect the thicker babbitt layer found in diesel engines.

Changing the oil too frequently is a mistake. It cost you more money, does not really protect your engine more, and adds to the environmental waste.
The original interval was when decided when the oil was poor quality and the roads were dirt and life was hard for a car.
Oil companies have pushed shorter times between oil changes because they make more money.
The reality is I have never heard of an engine failing because of old oil. You may promote more wear, but how many years would it take to wear out the A engine at the rate most people drive their cars. I think people have this desired to do something to their cars so they believe an oil change, new plugs and points should be done every year.

Use common sense and learn what the oil does for you and select what you think will be good for you. It is hard to go wrong.

The best thing you can do is drive the car a lot.
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:00 PM   #15
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

I also use Walmart Super Tech 20w50 oil in my model A's
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Old 12-02-2011, 05:20 PM   #16
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

super tech oil has the same warrenty ar shell, mobil, valvoline , havoline and castrol, the only difference is the price, use 20-50 and change it every 2000 miles, new cars use the same oil and they say change every 5000 miles, and the new motors put a hell of a lot more stress on the crank and every thing else in the motor than a model a will with its 4.5 to 1 compression, spend your money and listen to the hear say, or listen to the guys who run these things every day, oil never wears out it just get dirty
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Old 12-02-2011, 05:25 PM   #17
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Chevron 10-30 by the case at Costco. Use it in all my vehicles.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:17 PM   #18
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

I've been using various 30 wt oil, but now there is Walmart Super Tech in it.

Leaks about a tablespoon of oil per year, wish I could get it to stop at the back of the engine.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:40 PM   #19
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

It would seem like a person should consider the weather they have in their area to determine what weight oil to use. For example, if your temps are around 0 F you may not want to use 40 weigh oil. Or is your temps are around 100 F you may not want to use 5 weight. So I would think a person should consider this when using a certain weight oil. So I assume the answer would be to use a multi weight, say 10-40, and that should cover most variations in temps. Just my guess on the subject!
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:50 AM   #20
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Good info. Many who were trained by the major oil companies believe, with good reason, that whatever oil you choose should have the API seal on it. While non-API oils can be excellent, they are not subject to the standardized testing that earns the API approval and therefore can vary their formulation from batch to batch. All the major brands and some not-so-major brands pass the tests and carry the API seal. It's really personal regarding the viscosity and straight weight vs multiweight, but definitely use a detergent oil - you need the additives for protection. Check the attached Texaco charts from 1930 to get an idea of what was recommended when our cars were new (Gosh I hope they show up).
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File Type: jpg TexacoOilChart2.jpg (61.6 KB, 36 views)
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:18 AM   #21
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

I have voted for the 15W-40 Rotella, figuring that the ZDDP which has been around for 75 years in our oil kept engines running for those years since the mid 1930s and the 15 wt at zero C is around what Henry suggested for winter, and the 40 viscositi number at 100 C is around what Henry sugggested for summer use.
The SM grade oils are lacking in the ZDDP zinc additive.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:05 AM   #22
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Quote


>Zinc is only need for engines with very stiff valve springs, not what you find in the A<
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:18 AM   #23
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Here is an article from a Model A newsletter

..
Tech tip....
(
editors note: Much has been written on the subject of ZDDP
in motor oil. The removal of ZDDP from oil has been
deemed responsible for cam damage in flat tappet engines,
especially those with high valve spring pressure. Here is
some more “borrowed” from the Shade Tree A’s. Food for
thought....fg)

MOTOR OIL REVISITED
Jim McPherson
Shade Tree A’s News, Volume 39, No. 11, November,
Additional information is available on the value of
ZDDP (zinc) in motor oils, this time from an engine
rebuilder. In engines with a flat tappet cam-shaft, like our
Model A, camshafts can be ruined in the first few minutes
of operation. They need maximum lubrication during this
time while the lifters mate to the cam. During break-in,
the engine must be run between 1800 to 2400 RPM for 20
to 30 minutes. Do not let the engine idle any what-so-ever
during this time. This keeps the oil splashed onto the cam
lobes. Change the engine RPM frequently. It is important
for the engine to start as soon as possible. Turning the
engine by hand, or excessive starter spinning will result in
wiping the assembly lube from the cam lobes. While this
in-formation is general, and not specific for our Model A
engines, it is good advice for the initial starting and
break-in of our engines.
It is very important to use a motor oil or additive
that contains ZDDP. The current "SM" oils do not
contain sufficient amounts of ZDDP (600-800 PPM) to
protect your rebuilt engine, especially during break-in.
Do not use oils with less than 0.14% (1400 PPM)
ZDDP, and 0.16% is best. Do not use a synthetic oil for
break-in, even if it con-tains ZDDP. Rotella, other
diesel oils and Val-voline VR1 Racing oil are better
than "S" rated car oils, but do not contain 0.14% ZDDP.
Do not use "SA" through "SE" rated oils. We have
discussed it and many of you are using Classic Car
Motor Oil in your Model A. It is produced by the
Indiana Region of the Classic Car Club of America and
D-A Lubricant Co. to contain the optimum amount of
ZDDP and oil additives for our engines. The information
presented here is from Carolina Ma-chine Engines
in Johnston, SC, which now sells correct oils and additives
for break-in and everyday use and Classic Car
Motor Oil.
THANKS to Don Cerefin for supplying the information
for this Tech Tip.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:58 PM   #24
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

The Texico Chart is interesting. Notice that they call for 50W above 70 degree's F.

The owners manual didn't call for 50 W. Anyone know the reason for the difference ?

Marc
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:11 PM   #25
Jeff M
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Thanks for the replies guys, I think I'll try Castrol GTX 20w50.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:35 AM   #26
Glen in Hillman MI
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Smile Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stone View Post
If I don't use 40 wt. I use Wallyworld 20w50. Price is right and good oil.
I also use this oil. I chang anytime from 1500 to 2600 miles. [over 28,000 in 3 yeaars with no wwork on the engine.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:05 AM   #27
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Is someone using Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils!



..
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:47 PM   #28
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: Engine Oil/Brand?

Like I said as long as the oil is the slippery kind it will work fine in the Model A engine.
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