Speedster Question, Spark Advance Linkage

[QGolden]

Hey,
To you folks that have built a Speedster, a question.

I am getting close to lowering my steering wheel. My Spark Advance Rod barely clears the head and Bolt now, when I lower the steering column, it will hit the head.

Any solutions other then bending the rod?

Thx.

Quinn

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Take two, "slice & dice", weld ...and now there is one longer one.

[klawockvet]

Buy another rod, cut both of them. Thread them ( I believe a 10/32 die will work but dont remember for sure? Go to hardware store and get a long nut, like a turnbuckle nut. Cut the pieces to approximate length and join them with the long nut. Then you have an adjustment. I have left both my throttle and spark rods with the nut but they could be welded now that i have the correct length.

[Tom Wesenberg]

But, how will lengthening the rod help with a straight line problem? He will still have to bend the rod to clear the head. A slight bend in the middle of the rod shouldn't require adding to the length. I think the Service Bulletins or Service Letters even mention a slight bend to clear the head.

[QGolden]

Thx for the replies, I can bend the rod, but to me it will look like a "bent rod". A nice sharp bend from welding two rods together would be OK.

I was looking for something a bit more "elegant". I sort of like things "square and perpendicular", or looking as if they were built for the job, not modified. It is probably foolish on a speedster, but that is the way I do things. Last night I was working on a potential solution of a Bellcrank to transfer the thrust around the head. Also played with the idea of using the tubing roller to bend a graceful radius along the full length of the rod.

Just wondering what others have done.

[Ross/Kzoo]

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First let me say that I didn't lower the steering on mine. Given what you said about making things look right I would take the rod and place it on the tire to bend a large radius.

[Sparky]

My steering wheel has been moved back 3" and I have a multi-piece spark linkage. Take a look at the picture.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by QGolden

Hey,
To you folks that have built a Speedster, a question.

I am getting close to lowering my steering wheel. My Spark Advance Rod barely clears the head and Bolt now, when I lower the steering column, it will hit the head.

Any solutions other then bending the rod?

Thx.

Quinn

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

But, how will lengthening the rod help with a straight line problem? He will still have to bend the rod to clear the head. A slight bend in the middle of the rod shouldn't require adding to the length. I think the Service Bulletins or Service Letters even mention a slight bend to clear the head.

Below is a picture of my wife's speedster showing how the column was moved backwards and dropped some. As I suggested above, two control rods welded together cure this issue. Being creative, that is what makes speedsters unique. For me however, I prefer to subscribe to the method of doing it how someone back in the depression-era would have done it, ...and not how a 1950's hot rodder would have done it.




.

[Logan]

Take two. Put a z bend in one of them, the parts suppliers sell a copper sleeve that will allow you to out two rods together. It's advertised as a sleeve to help you get the right adjustment out of your rods. I've used these sleeves multiple times when shortening and lengthening rods.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

OR you could install one of our Mallory conversions with full mechanical spark advance and forget the rod and linkage.

These are new Mallory cores machined for the Model A and advance is adjusted for 30 degrees at 2500 rpm.

Shipped with new cap, rotor, ignition wires and drive rod ready to run....contact point version only......6 or 12 volt......

[bogdonj]

2 questions because I'm starting a speedster now. Why do you have to move the steering wheel back 3 inches? and doing that and drilling another huge hole in the frame around the same one, wouldn't that weaken the frame right around the area?

[QGolden]

Bognonj
Excellent question, and I will give you a detailed answer, but if you don't mind, I would like to start a new thread over at the Speedster Group. There is not nearly enough activity there, and this topic and subsequent thread might create some good dialog and interest among the Speedster enthusiasts. Why don't you sign up and join us there.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/group.php?groupid=31

Quinn

[Farrell In Vancouver]

How about building a longer control arm and swapping it out with the stock length unit at the bottom of the column? Wouldn't take much to weld up a control arm with a longer arm and solve any clearance issue. Using steel it would be stronger that the pot metal repop units, and you can then use the straight, unbent spark rod. You may have to "reclock" the control arm to make sure the rod will be long enough to reach.

[QGolden]

Originally Posted by Sparky

My steering wheel has been moved back 3" and I have a multi-piece spark linkage. Take a look at the picture.

Excellent! That is the kind of creativity I was looking for! Thx.

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Below is a picture of my wife's speedster ... As I suggested above, two control rods welded together cure this issue. Being creative, that is what makes speedsters unique. For me however, I prefer to subscribe to the method of doing it how someone back in the depression-era would have done it, ...and not how a 1950's hot rodder would have done it.

Good points and thanks for the picture. I am not moving the column back as you did, but I have always admired the clean lines on your Wife's Speedster. Do you have a build thread on it? Nice clean engine bay, but it does create some questions.....regarding the depression era vs 50's rodder. I am actually looking for a look somewhere between the two. Perhaps Post War is my target look. Lets face it, Model A Speedsters never really existed on a real scale "back in the day" so there are few "traditional" rules, except in the eye of the owner, and they are all 100% right. . So far I have lowered it 2 inches, reversed the front spring to lower the eyes, Using '33 17 inch wheels to lower it a bit more, gave it 3 inches of rake from the back to the front by removing/altering springs. I will have more details but will start a thread over in the Speedster Group, not everyone here is interested.

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

OR you could install one of our Mallory conversions with full mechanical spark advance and forget the rod and linkage.

Could happen, but not yet. Phase one is to build the Speedster and get it on the road with a stock motor/tranny. Phase two is engine mods, perhaps this winter. I will post more in the Speedster Group.

Originally Posted by bogdonj

2 questions because I'm starting a speedster now. Why do you have to move the steering wheel back 3 inches? and doing that and drilling another huge hole in the frame around the same one, wouldn't that weaken the frame right around the area?

I replied to this at the Speedster Group.

Originally Posted by Farrell In Vancouver

How about building a longer control arm and swapping it out with the stock length unit at the bottom of the column?

Another very good idea, thank you.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by QGolden

Good points and thanks for the picture. I am not moving the column back as you did, but I have always admired the clean lines on your Wife's Speedster. Do you have a build thread on it? Nice clean engine bay, but it does create some questions.....regarding the depression era vs 50's rodder. I am actually looking for a look somewhere between the two. Perhaps Post War is my target look. Lets face it, Model A Speedsters never really existed on a real scale "back in the day" so there are few "traditional" rules, except in the eye of the owner, and they are all 100% right. .

Actually, I downed the car a few years ago, and got to the point of it painted and ready for re-assembly ...and just stopped. It has been modified enough now that it more closely represents a hot rod and not a speedster so I will refrain from posting pics here. I might explore the rules for the Speedster side of Fordbarn and make sure it does not cross any boundaries there. If not, I will post some pix there.
.

[QGolden]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

I might explore the rules for the Speedster side of Fordbarn and make sure it does not cross any boundaries there. If not, I will post some pix there.
.

Yup, me too, I am going to start to update a build thread of sorts there. It would be nice to have some activity there as Ryan was kind enough to grant the space, there are a few of us who are interested in that side of the hobby and I for one, could, pull my Speedster Body off of the frame and build a Stock Model A of my choosing, on on it any time I want, no Model A's are being harmed in the build. But I understand and respect the feelings of many other enthusiasts here.