Blocking manifold heater tube

[fried okra]

My '31 Tudor obviously had an exhaust manifold heater at one time.

Any good suggestions on how best to block off the 2" diameter heater tube coming thru the firewall?

Thanks!

[w.michael]

I used black electrical tape. Probably not up to most people’s standards!
W. Michael

[fried okra]

I am looking for a 2" rubber ball but not found much on Amazon yet.

I have a blanking plate to cover from the inside but looking to seal it off better.

[Big hammer]

Dense foam push it in and let the sharp edges cut a prefect fit, paint it black to blend in

[Marshall V. Daut]

Order the heater valve that goes into that hole. It has a cover inside that swings open and closed. Close it and stuff some insulation material into the firewall opening to reduce heat entering. Not only will installing this valve block incoming heat, it will aesthetically improve the appearance of the both sides of the firewall rather than slap on some kludgey-looking other means of sealing that portion of the firewall. The valve itself is cheap enough to make this repair economically affordable. Heck! The hole is already there: all you have to do is slide the valve into the firewall and tighten the two mounting bolts. Problem solved. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7342&cat=41624
Marshall

[fried okra]

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Thanks, Marshall.....have got one of those already.....and seeking more ideas to seal better from the firewall side too!!

[Flathead]

They make a repair panel for that area, maybe you could fashion something from one of those?

[Ray in La Mesa]

Two tin can ends, bolt & nut & and a bit of silicone.

[Tiny]

Weld in a piece of sheet metal

[fried okra]

I just ordered one of these 2" foam balls, for .99 cents, and only 7 dollars to ship.....LOL

And use the blocking plate on the inside also.

https://factorydirectcraft.com/catal...hoCk4YQAvD_BwE

[Marshall V. Daut]

Since you already have one inlet valve with cover door, why not order a second one and remove the door from it and then put a cover door on each side of the firewall? That would be better than just the thin firewall metal by more than doubling that area in thickness = better insulation. It would look pretty good, too. At only $13.95 for the entire inlet valve, include it with your next parts order to absorb shipping costs. You could either leave the covers the metallic color or if you have paint left over from the spray job, paint those covers lower body color.
'Lots of ways to skin a cat, as they used to say before it became P.C. not to say that anymore. But the sentiment is still the same.
Marshall

[fried okra]

Good thought Marshall.....thx!

[mass A man]

As mentioned, a can lid of perfect size, painted firewall color, a dab of GOOP to stick it on. It would look a bit more 1930-ish than a rubber ball.

[fried okra]

Thx, mass_A_man.....I don't find any 2" cans in wifeys pantry or anything on-line.

Seems to be a rather unique size.

Do you know of one off hand?

[Keith True]

Is the hole in a spot that is absolutely flat? Or,are there stamped corners or ribs there? If it is flat you can get a flat steel block off plate for electrical boxes to fit in there.I have a couple of them plugged into the cowl light holes in my 28 phaeton.They look OK,better than the look of cowl lights on a 28-or 29 to me.

[RDVAARK]

I also was faced with this absolutely awful, horrible, dilemma. I looked around for something more aesthetically pleasing and found a 2" dia flat medication can with a slip off cap. When closed, the cap holds the can on the engine side in only as far as the raised lip (sort of like an old Esquire shoe polish can). An added benefit is the conversation that ensues after the curious fondle and examine the can to read the label which states that it is to be applied to sheep with a urinary infection. It IS period correct, and is a somewhat attractive light olive green with black lettering and a silhouette of a sheep on the label. The engine side is rather plain. In the future I plan to fill the empty can with suitable insulation to exclude engine heat from the cabin. I may also coat the inside of the can with brush-applied Glyptal, so it doesn't corrode at elevated temperatures. Really.

This only works on flat areas of the 28-29 firewall.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Wow! 15 responses so far! Some engine questions don't get this many suggestions!
Marshall

[Ray in La Mesa]

I've trolled the supermarket shelves for useful items while working on the A's. Lids, tops, jars, containers & weird shaped cans. You might even find something new & delicious to eat!

[Mike85212]

What I have done on a couple mine….
If the “tube” is through the firewall on the engine side I take an oil filer tube cap and remove the insert then screw it onto the heater tube. Very neat and clean look.
Winter time I put the top portion of the heater on and remove the cap takes all of about five minutes.

[Bob Bidonde]

This is the door Marshall mentions in Post #5.