Drake fuel sender

[34fordy]

Can anyone tell me how much they removed from the float arm to get a proper reading on the fuel gauge in a 1936 pickup when installing a Drake sender? hahaha

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

Can anyone tell me how much they removed from the float arm to get a proper reading on the fuel gauge in a 1936 pickup when installing a Drake sender?

A Drake sender and a proper reading? Now that's a perfect oxymoron if I'd ever heard one.

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by Kube

A Drake sender and a proper reading? Now that's a perfect oxymoron if I'd ever heard one.

That put a smile on my red face Kube. I should have known better as I had done a search on here first. LOL

[40cpe]

Some people claim to have gotten accurate reading through the range of the gauge using a resistor sender with a King-Seeley gauge. The best I've been able to do is make it read empty just before the fuel runs out.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Kube

A Drake sender and a proper reading? Now that's a perfect oxymoron if I'd ever heard one.

You got that right !!!🤣

[34fordy]

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Not even embarassed anymore for asking the stupid question. I think even at my age I may have a bright future in comedy!!!!!!!!

[Flathead Fever]

Hook up your sender wire and also give it a ground wire. While holding it outside of the tank see if at its full travel the gauge reads empty at the bottom and full at the top. That way you know it's compatible with the voltage and the gauge. Now you need to figure out what part of the arm will hit the bottom of the tank and the top of the tank at the same time the sender reaches its up and down limits. You can measure the depth of the tank. Then suspend the sender from something that same height. Jump the sending unit wire from the car and a ground wire to your suspended sender. See what the gauge reads at the top and bottom of the float travel of your imaginary tank. Then remove the float and pick different spots on the arm to see which spot the float would be long enough to reach the bottom and the top of the tank when the sender also reaches its limits. If you find the happy spot install the float there on the arm. Years ago, I did this aftermarket sender replacement on the neighbor's stock, 6V, '40 convertible and it worked like it should. We just had to find the right length for the arm.

I bought this today for the grandsons. Okay, it might have been for me. it's not a Ford but it Is flathead powered (one-cylinder) and it has Ford style front suspension. 1957-1958 quarter midget. Another checkmark on the bucket list.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

Not even embarassed anymore for asking the stupid question. I think even at my age I may have a bright future in comedy!!!!!!!!

Give yourself a break. It was not a stupid question. It was a hilarious question

If you desire more comedy, call Drake and ask if they have ever heard of this issue.

[34fivewindow]

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

Hook up your sender wire and also give it a ground wire. While holding it outside of the tank see if at its full travel the gauge reads empty at the bottom and full at the top. That way you know it's compatible with the voltage and the gauge. Now you need to figure out what part of the arm will hit the bottom of the tank and the top of the tank at the same time the sender reaches its up and down limits. You can measure the depth of the tank. Then suspend the sender from something that same height. Jump the sending unit wire from the car and a ground wire to your suspended sender. See what the gauge reads at the top and bottom of the float travel of your imaginary tank. Then remove the float and pick different spots on the arm to see which spot the float would be long enough to reach the bottom and the top of the tank when the sender also reaches its limits. If you find the happy spot install the float there on the arm. Years ago, I did this aftermarket sender replacement on the neighbor's stock, 6V, '40 convertible and it worked like it should. We just had to find the right length for the arm.

I bought this today for the grandsons. Okay, it might have been for me. it's not a Ford but it Is flathead powered (one-cylinder) and it has Ford style front suspension. 1957-1958 quarter midget. Another checkmark on the bucket list.

I raced quarter midgets in 1957 to 61, here in Santa Rosa, at the fair grounds. you need to find the correct engine, which was a Continental AU7R.

[35fordtn]

I measure the depth of the tank and attach the sending unit to a 2x4 that height, then hook the sending unit to the gauge and slowly start cutting and bending the float arm whilst recreating the full and low positions. Its much easier to do it out of the car this way, as no two are perfectly alike. While they aren’t as good as a original the one in my 36 pickup has worked flawlesssly for 8k miles and two years.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 34fivewindow

I raced quarter midgets in 1957 to 61, here in Santa Rosa, at the fair grounds. you need to find the correct engine, which was a Continental AU7R.

Like this?

Coop

[34fordy]

Thanx for the help to all, especially Flathead Fever & 35fordtn for very good suggestions!