transmission output seal replacement - F100 1955

[tquigley]

I purchased a 1955 F100 3 speed transmission from a guy who tried to remove the rear output seal. Using the seal removal pry bar previous owner (PR) managed to mangle-out the elements of the seal - the rubber, a spring looking piece. The perimeter of the seal remains in place and will be hard to pry out.

I purchased a replacement seal; however, it pales in comparison to the original. It is a much simpler rubber seal. Is this an acceptable replacement for the original more robust seal? What am I missing - any secrets to replacing this output seal? Suggestions? Where might I find a replacement? Ford part number is 7052.

Seeking wisdom TQ

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by tquigley

I purchased a 1955 F100 3 speed transmission from a guy who tried to remove the rear output seal. Using the seal removal pry bar previous owner (PR) managed to mangle-out the elements of the seal - the rubber, a spring looking piece. The perimeter of the seal remains in place and will be hard to pry out.

I purchased a replacement seal; however, it pales in comparison to the original. It is a much simpler rubber seal. Is this an acceptable replacement for the original more robust seal? What am I missing - any secrets to replacing this output seal? Suggestions? Where might I find a replacement? Ford part number is 7052.

Seeking wisdom TQ

Before we go any further, how is the condition of the rear tail-shaft bushing?

Does it allow the output shaft to wallow out the seal? Condition of DS yoke?

[paul2748]

Pull the extension housing and with a tool like a Dremel grind the remainder of the seal being careful not to damage the extension. Might be able to do it with a grinding bit in a drill if it's close enough.


I don't know what the original seal looks like, but they usually are simply made. Post a pic of the old parts and the new seal ??

[rotorwrench]

The old small case Ford-O-Matics used an old tech extension housing seal that was likely replaced with a later tech type seal at some point. As was previously mentioned, the condition of the rear bushing is important for the longevity of the rear seal. Make sure the drive shaft yoke doesn't move around too much or it may need that bushing as well.

[tquigley]

Thanks, that makes sense. WILCO.

[LOWRIDER]

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Usually the seal leaks because the extension housing bushing or the drive shaft yoke is worn. Or both.We used to use a tool that would slide over the output shaft and the raised lip on the end would hook on to the end of the bushing and you just tightened the screw to pull the bushing out.

[Mac VP]

I assume from the original post that this transmission was a standard 3 speed (manual) column shift type. Those came in two variants…..the very short rear retainer version (110” wheelbase) and the typical long tail housing version (118” wb). The shorter housing has no bushing where the slip yoke fits. The longer housing would have the regular bushing at the rear end, just in front of the rear oil seal.

Both transmissions used the same 7052 oil seal and it was the fully encased type with the steel shell on all sides. If you have the original seal in there, it can be very difficult to remove. Just using the common seal puller will just tear gaps in the outer shell and you’ll end up pulling only the inner portion out, leaving most of the steel shell. That part is usually rusted into place. I’m not sure how successful you can be in this job without removing the rear housing and working the job with it in a sturdy vice. We normally clamp the housing in the vice and drive the remnants of the old seal out with a long punch. With the longer type housing we use a chisel to punch the seal shell inward, working around the edges of the seal. That’s generally enough to loosen the rusted contact and allow removal of the old seal.

Replacement seals are often just the common type that drive down to the lip of the housing. We stock and sell the original fully steel jacketed seal, and we press it into place with a steel pusher tool in the hydraulic press so that it doesn’t deform.

[KULTULZ]

The man knows his stuff ...

[Oldcarbearings]

The original type was metal cased &leather lip with a felt wiper insert spring loaded,
I think both C/R/NATIONAL/VICTOR did make the original style,
It also fits FORDS other than F series as a rear extension housing oil seal,
There's 2x different FORD 7052 part numbers,
1x 78-7052 "transmission main drive"&21C-7052 " transmission main shaft",
BOTH are different dimensionally&in there construction,
21C-7052 dimensions: ID 1.498 X 2.378 X.625 EB8 (stepped design) ,
78-7052 dimensions: ID 1.375X2" X .312 A1 (metal cased leather lip spring loaded),
FYI: FORD part numbers ending in 7052 are either 1.375(1.3/8) ID or 1.498/1.500 (1.1/2) ID BUT different OD'S&W'S(widths)&construction some 7052 had a rubber boot, FORD did both list&sell the rubber boot as a sperate part they used that type here in Australia on toploader,C4/C6/FMX &Borg Warner T5&Tremec inc 6spd.

[tquigley]

Dear Vanpelt. Thank you for the detailed information. I am impressed. Do you think I (a novice mechanic) could remove the rear housing without disrupting the internal workings and then remove the remnants of the seal more easily? Does that bring reassembly problems?
The 3-speed manual transmission is out of the truck.

[Mac VP]

Unfortunately,it’s a bit more involved to free up the rear bearing retainer on these transmissions than you might be comfortable with. To do it right, you need to pull the countershaft and let the cluster gear drop down to the bottom of the gearbox case. This is when you can unbolt the rear housing and pull it (along with the mainshaft, low/reverse gear, second gear, and the synchro assembly all out together as one group. Then, you have to remove a large snap ring (located in front of the ball bearing) to separate the shaft and the group of gears from the rear housing. Only then do you gain access to the rear seal area to drive out the rear oil seal. We do these transmissions frequently and have some specialized tools to help make the job easier.

With it apart like this, it’s the sensible thing to do to change the synchro rings, and perhaps the bearings.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

The man knows his stuff ...

Originally Posted by Mac VP

With it apart like this, it’s the sensible thing to do to change the synchro rings, and perhaps the bearings.

The man still knows his stuff ...

There was once a tool ... In a GALAXIE far ... far away that enabled one to change the busing and seal while on the vehicle.

Now I wonder (as I often do) why I never bought one off the tool truck.

[bbrocksr]

We replace these in the vehicle all the time.
Just use a hammer and punch or chisel and cave the steel shell inward like was stated earlier.
Bill

[tquigley]

Good advice, it worked! Thx TQ