Tri-power issues

[SoCalCoupe]

I have an original Tri-Power setup (3 Holley 2-bbls) on my ’62 Galaxie, and it’s very hard to start when hot. It will eventually fire with the accelerator floored and lots of cranking. I’ve seen similar issues fixed with new condensers and coils, but that hasn’t helped. Plug wires check out, so I don’t think ignition is the issue.


I’ve gone through float levels, carb linkage, idle throttle positions, and idle mixture extensively, following 3deucesV2 from HPTrends.com, and I believe it’s well-tuned.


However, when the engine is warm, turned off, and sitting still, I notice fuel vapor rising from the middle carb. The float level looks fine through the sight hole, so I suspect a leak—possibly in the idle circuit, bowl, or metering block gaskets. Warped mating surfaces on the bowl and metering block could also be a factor.


Another issue: the car idles well after a cold start (choke off), but once fully warmed up, it stalls when I let off the gas and push in the clutch. Raising the idle speed helped somewhat, but then I noticed something odd—when coasting and clutching in, the engine stays at a cruising RPM for a few seconds before settling at the new, higher idle. Possibly, I’ve raised the idle into the transition circuit.


My next step is to pull the middle carb and inspect it, but I’d appreciate any recommendations on what to check and anything else to look for.

[robib]

To start off, the fuel we use today is not like that of "yesterday's gasoline". The boiling point of today's fuel is much lower, which can lead to many problems with carbureted engines. The problem I hear most often is hard starting with a hot engine after the car has been sitting for a short time. This is the first problem you asked about.



Your car has tripower, which means you have a fuel rail along with the three carbs. When you shut the engine off, the temperature of the engine increases (can go over 200 degrees F) from the lack of coolant flowing. The temperature of the fuel in the fuel rail and the carbs also increases to the point that it starts to boil. The fuel also expands and has no place to go except to override the needles and seats in the carbs. So now the fuel dumps into the intake manifold effectively flooding the engine and a very hard "HOT" start. With a single carbureted engine a fuel pressure regulator could be installed right at the carburetor, which would stop any additional fuel from entering. There still would be fuel in the carburetor which could expand and enter the intake, but the effect would not be as bad. With tripower, you would need three regulators and there location would "where"? I have one other thought. The other brand (GM), has fuel pumps with return lines to the fuel tank as a stock system (70s cars). If you could set up a return line (1/4"), that may stop your hard starting problem. As stated above, we are not dealing with gasoline, we are dealing with fuel designed for today's fuel injected engines. I hope this has given you info and ideas of how to "fi" your problem.

[Gene F]

So, this is a flathead?

I have triple Holley/Ford 94s on my Y-block. I am guessing progressive linkage. Call Speedway Motors and get a phenolic gasket (shallow spacer) to go under your primary carb. If there is a heat riser tube for a choke on that intake you need to block that off.

Sounds like float, or powervalve to me.

As for the starting, try this, as you turn the key slowly advance the accelerator pedal to about 1/8th open. I have wire loom wrap (plastic on my car) over the fuel line from the pump up to the carbs. Make sure your ignition points are opening enough.

My carbs have a regulator and a gage. 1lbs to 1.5 lbs. Some crabs run on very low fuel pressure. Pressure is not the same as volume. Be careful about upping the idle to cure a problem. That can have downstream consequences on some carbs (like on a Model-A ford).

Pull a sparkplug. What does it look like? don't over-analyze it. Just take a look.

Putting a heat spacer under the middle carb is one thing, but if you crack that carb open a vendor will tell you you own it.

[miker98038]

One of the things I noticed over the years. When I parked the car at a show with the hood up, it cooled off and started right up. I started lifting the hood in the garage, same result. Didn’t work so good in the grocery parking lot. But it quickly established it was heat, and probably due to ethanol. I never had to do that in the old days.

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by robib

To start off, the fuel we use today is not like that of "yesterday's gasoline". The boiling point of today's fuel is much lower, which can lead to many problems with carbureted engines. The problem I hear most often is hard starting with a hot engine after the car has been sitting for a short time. This is the first problem you asked about.

Your car has tripower, which means you have a fuel rail along with the three carbs. When you shut the engine off, the temperature of the engine increases (can go over 200 degrees F) from the lack of coolant flowing. The temperature of the fuel in the fuel rail and the carbs also increases to the point that it starts to boil. The fuel also expands and has no place to go except to override the needles and seats in the carbs. So now the fuel dumps into the intake manifold effectively flooding the engine and a very hard "HOT" start. With a single carbureted engine a fuel pressure regulator could be installed right at the carburetor, which would stop any additional fuel from entering. There still would be fuel in the carburetor which could expand and enter the intake, but the effect would not be as bad. With tripower, you would need three regulators and there location would "where"? I have one other thought. The other brand (GM), has fuel pumps with return lines to the fuel tank as a stock system (70s cars). If you could set up a return line (1/4"), that may stop your hard starting problem. As stated above, we are not dealing with gasoline, we are dealing with fuel designed for today's fuel injected engines. I hope this has given you info and ideas of how to "fi" your problem.

Sounds like you know your stuff, and that all makes sense—plenty to consider. I adjusted the tune to shift more idle fuel to the outer carbs, allowing me to close the middle carb’s throttle slightly, but I haven’t test-driven it yet. If that doesn’t resolve the issue, I’ll pull the middle carb, inspect the gaskets and accelerator pump for leaks, and run another test. Sounds like I shouldn’t expect that alone to be the fix.


This is a rare car, so keeping it original matters to me. But I also won’t tolerate unreliable hot starts—it takes the fun out of driving. If necessary, I may have to consider reversible but non-original mods as you suggest. If it comes to that, I’d likely go all in with an FiTech Tri-Power setup for full drivability and EFI convenience

Originally Posted by miker98038

One of the things I noticed over the years. When I parked the car at a show with the hood up, it cooled off and started right up. I started lifting the hood in the garage, same result. Didn’t work so good in the grocery parking lot. But it quickly established it was heat, and probably due to ethanol. I never had to do that in the old days.

Bingo! That's the pattern. Hood up, few issues. Hood down, bad day. Car's not really usable like this for a road tour with multiple starts and stops in a day.

Originally Posted by Gene F

So, this is a flathead?

No, not a flathead. It's 406 cid FE engine (same basic block design as 390 and 427 V8's), 405 HP, G-code, factory tri-power. It was only made for
about a year between 1962 1/2 and 1963 1/2.

[KULTULZ]

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Well, I cannot contain myself any longer ...

What you are experiencing is ETHANOL BLENDED GASOLINE SYNDROME.

- https://www.carburetor-parts.com/pro...r-from-ethanol

Is the car a survivor/restoration and/or is it used as a driver? You're wanting to keep as FACTORY ASSEMBLED?

The 1st thing to do is carb(s) tear-down to see if any internal damage from ethanol. Use only ETHANOL RATED CARB KITS and any rubber fuel lines.

Have you checked the fuel filter for tank rust?

You are working with a MULTI-CARB SETUP and is much more difficult to get in tune than a single carb.

The 2nd thing to do is take the CHI-CON points and condenser out and throw them as far as you can into an open field. Use PERTONIX IGN II.

And it is very disrespectful to come on here asking for advice and not showing photos of a GENUINE 1962 GALAXIE G-CODE ... (cover your plates and PATENT PLATE)

... tsk ... tsk ... tsk ...

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Is the car a survivor/restoration and/or is it used as a driver? You're wanting to keep as FACTORY ASSEMBLED?


And it is very disrespectful to come on here asking for advice and not showing photos of a GENUINE 1962 GALAXIE G-CODE ... (cover your plates and PATENT PLATE)

... tsk ... tsk ... tsk ...

It's restored to original but not a perfect show car. I take it to local Cars & Coffee events a couple of times a month and enjoy longer cruises with my car club and other groups. I don’t want a museum piece that just sits—I prefer to drive and enjoy my cars. So, it's a balance. I aim to keep this one as original as possible while making it a reliable driver.


If I can't have both, I'd MUCH rather sit in a parking lot and make excuses for a "non-correct" part than make excuses for a car that won't start.


I have taken all three carbs apart and checked for problems and used brand new Holley-brand rebuild kits to replace gaskets that couldn't be reused.


Haven't checked the fuel filter yet because I haven't seen it as a problem.


Ignition seems strong although I did replace the coil and condenser with the best NAPA parts I could find.

[KULTULZ]

Well, how did the rebuilds go? Have you re-installed?

How were the carbs internally (zinc oxide or trash)?

You need a combination fuel pressure and vacuum gauge to even begin to diagnose the problem(s) (IMO).

Haven't checked the fuel filter yet because I haven't seen it as a problem.

How often do you replace the filter?

BTW - CELLULOSE filter media breaks down in ethanol laced gasoline and then resides in carb passages)

Ignition seems strong although I did replace the coil and condenser with the best NAPA parts I could find.

Ya' know, NOS MOTORCRAFT IGN is readily available for the most part. Anything else is junk.

KULTULZ - Well, I cannot contain myself any longer ...

- OUT! -

BTW - ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL CAR!

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Well, how did the rebuilds go? Have you re-installed?

How were the carbs internally (zinc oxide or trash)?

You need a combination fuel pressure and vacuum gauge to even begin to diagnose the problem(s) (IMO).

How often do you replace the filter?

Ya' know, NOS MOTORCRAFT IGN is readily available for the most part. Anything else is junk.

I've only had the car a year and put about 1,000 miles on it.


Wasn't really a carb rebuild. Just checking things out. When I bought the car, I was told the carbs had been rebuilt within the past year. Discovered that whoever rebuilt them is incompetent. One carb float was off the hook because the retainer clip was incorrectly installed. It was blowing raw gas through the engine and I was getting about 3 mpg. Two of the accelerator pumps were held on with 3 rather than 4 screws and leaking badly. Insides were clean. I fixed the float and accelerator pump issues and installed the new float bowl and metering block gaskets. Now getting about 7 mpg in stop and go driving, 10 mpg on a trip.


Agree with "fuel pressure and vacuum gauge to even begin to diagnose the problem."


Since I haven't had it very long I haven't replaced the fuel filter.


Yes, finding quality traditional ignition parts is a major issue for the hobby.

[miker98038]

At 7miles per gallon, sounds like the fuel supply is ok. It’s not running short. But I think going thru the whole works is probably the thing to do.

That’s gorgeous, and a well optioned FE is a jewel. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

[Abe Lugo]

Nice car. 7mpg is crap. For that level of car maybe consider finding a local shop that can help. Armchair advice is just that. Just Advice.
I have had similar issues on my 41 Cad. One of the main things was getting the right regulator pressure. Also my car 500 engine so I found the correct sized carb for it and that help even more.
One I would recommend is getting the progressive carbs timed correctly if not already.
Also consider if your hot start are not working. See if you can shoot some fuel down the center and crank it to see if it's lack of fuel getting through. Or is it solenoid or actually the ignition. There only a few thing to check on non-hot start happening. Some people will run an inline electric fuel pump just to get the fuel going, start the car and the shit off the electric pump.
As far as either electric ignition or points. It don't matter. You just need to have the time set clean and easy to fire.

Find other guys with tripower set up and ask more info.

Quick search gave me this. https://www.fordfe.com/tri-power-question-t67677.html

[KULTULZ]

That is a 1962 version (other 4V) of the 1960-1965 FORD HI-PO cars.

I would hate to think of it's value.

It should do a little better on fuel but it needs to be gone through. Having only a mechanical advance DIST isn't helping street fuel mileage either, along with a heavy foot.

I just realized that it was the same car discussed in the HP WHEEL COVERS THREAD.

[KULTULZ]

As far as either electric ignition or points. It don't matter. You just need to have the time set clean and easy to fire.

Wrong answer.

This is a 406 HP ENGINE. It was not meant to be a street engine unless released in a specialty car.

I can't imagine where he found points for the DIST.

She runs fat (as designed) and needs a hot ignition to fire it. It ran cold plugs (should) and they foul very easily on the street.

For someone that disdains armchair advice, you seem to throw it around awfully easily.

This is exactly why I hesitated to participate at first.

I am retiring.

[Gene F]

Cool car.

[SoCalCoupe]

Gentlemen, thank you for your interest, your comments and complements. You've given me a lot to think about. I'll check around for a shop to be trusted to "go through it" although I'm very pessimistic I can find one.


Yes, as described by Ford, it's a "super hi performance" engine. It's not really a street engine. It's one of the original muscle cars. Many were drag raced but the full sized car is too heavy. There was an aftermarket kit with fiberglass fenders and hood and an aluminum bumper.


How the engine fit's into NASCAR I really don't know. I do know that the square-back roof was an aerodynamic failure in NASCAR. The 1963 1/2 fastback Galaxie fixed the problem.


In the meantime, I'll take my 1941 Ford Special Business Coupe cruising this weekend. It has a 239 cid bored and sleeved flathead that supposedly makes 90 hp. I've added dual carbs with an Eddie Myer intake that I expect will take me to 91 or 92 hp.

[BW]

On the restart do you pump the gas? If so try starting it without pumping the gas.

[KULTULZ]

It's one of the original muscle cars.

The MUSCLE CAR ERA ran from 1964 to 1973 and was intermediate size cars fitted with a period full size car large engine(s).

What you have is a FORD HP full-size car (GALAXIE trimout for 1962) with a thumper engine, specially built in limited numbers for the street.

- https://www.hemmings.com/stories/fun...fords-1960-67/

The 406CI ENGINE was FORD's offering for the 1962 NASCAR season.

[SoCalCoupe]

Did some private messaging and talked with folks in my car club. The FI Tech tri-power EFI setup does not get good reviews. There's a company that has awesome reviews that makes an EFi tri-power setup but the price is really high. I've also found a local company with an awesome reputation to go through the original tri-power set-up, also very expensive. Not complaining about the cost, I can afford it. There are plenty of people willing to charge you high prices, just want to make sure I get my money's worth. Think I'll check out the original rebuilder before I go with the custom EFI.

[miker98038]

Dollars to donuts, if you could buy non ethanol fuel you’d see a difference. But in CA you probably can’t. Guys that are close to a station run it up here, I fill cans with it for the emergency generators and small engines. Stores much better. But for me it’s a pita for a driven car.

Maybe an electric fan with a time delay off? Just enough to move some air thru when stopped? I know, battery load and ugly.

But thanks for the feedback on the FI Tech. The real world is different from the advertising and use.

[KULTULZ]

Thankfully you caught yourself before committing. TBI is old tech and eye candy only.

You have a very special fuel intake assembly. Shop around and get opinions. It would be difficult and expensive to get it back.

My understanding is that HOLLEY no longer offers their refurbishing services.

- https://customcarbs.com/index.php/services/holleycarbs

[KULTULZ]

I have no idea of how you are driving the car on the street now with available pump gas.

As mentioned, ethanol laced fuel and heat soak are your main concerns. That big a$$ ACL ASSY also acts like an umbrella and won't allow engine heat to escape easily, especially after shutdown (heat soak).

11.4 to 1 CR and a very aggressive timing curve (all mechanical with no vacuum for the street).

READ HERE - https://enginefacts.com/ford406/

READ HERE - https://petroleumservicecompany.com/...ane-race-fuel/

I have seen these 5 GAL cans in gas stations close to race tracks.

If you want a true street driver, maybe consider building a mild 390/428 for the street and use the 3X2 with carb or TBI if you want the wow factor. Store the 406.

Who makes the other 3X2 TBI setup?

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

I have no idea of how you are driving the car on the street now with available pump gas.

11.4 to 1 CR and a very aggressive timing curve (all mechanical with no vacuum for the street).

If you want a true street driver, maybe consider building a mild 390/428 for the street and use the 3X2 with carb or TBI if you want the wow factor. Store the 406.

Who makes the other 3X2 TBI setup?

My driving style is smooth cruising and optimizing fuel economy. It actually drives OK, even with California gas, except for the hot start. I'm used to keeping the RPMs up and not bogging down a cammed up engine. I love the sound and the thought that I CAN put my foot into it.


Yes, mechanical distributor, no vacuum. There's not even a vacuum port on the whole tripower setup except for the PCV valve (it was on some but not all setups.)


That's a thought, mild/stock 390, store the 406. Actually, that's an economical solution. I could probably replace the the whole engine for less than the cost of the tripower EFI. Another option is to keep the 406 engine and just get a new 4 bbl intake and a high quality carb. However, I couldn't resist buying the authentic G-code 406 tri-power. I'm really into it. Just spent big bucks getting a set of authentic 15x5.5 cat-eye Hi-Po wheels too.


The other tri-power EFI I was looking at was Autotrend EFI in Diamond Springs CA.

[KULTULZ]

Another option is to keep the 406 engine and just get a new 4 bbl intake and a high quality carb. However, I couldn't resist buying the authentic G-code 406 tri-power. I'm really into it. Just spent big bucks getting a set of authentic 15x5.5 cat-eye Hi-Po wheels too.

Well, the engine itself (if a true survivor and never molested) is most likely more valuable than the car itself (other than it's being a GENUINE 1962 G-CODE CAR).

If you break down the engine, the value is gone unless it is a very detailed overhaul.

This car was never meant to be a daily driver, it was meant to qualify the engine for NASCAR and only nuts (such as myself) would even consider buying one.

Now it is your car, period. You do what you want but another consideration may be selling it (have you ever had it appraised?) and buying something you can more easily modify for today's street driving or a power change if you love the car (and believe me, I fully understand that one - my green eyes are misting).

What happened to the KH 15" wheels that came on it?

KULTULZ - Jealous and lusting in W(BY GOD)V ...

[KULTULZ]

The other tri-power EFI I was looking at was Autotrend EFI in Diamond Springs CA.

!!! DAMN !!!

They have their shiat stacked in one neat pile ...

The trouble (I see) with the other vendor is their using whatever injectors and/or sensors. You want at the minimum BOSCH QUALITY parts on the setup and a ECU that can be accessed easily and modified/tuned (if using GM DELCO sensors try not to use their WEATHER-PACK CONNECTORS as that draws away detail).

I also noticed that they describe modifying an intake manifold if needed. If your intake is cherry and nos. correct, you may want to find another take-off to modify (IMO)

The FE FORUM has a wealth of info and the guys there are dedicated.

Please keep the board updated as to which rout you choose to go with.

BTW-

If you built say a Q-CODE 428 (torque) for the street with reasonable CR and cam events, this system would give you one hell of a driving experience.

I would maybe use the cast shorties but have an H-PIPE made to accept the O2 SENSOR as I would hate to think of locating an OEM H-PIPE (inlet pipe) if later the car goes to full restoration.

Maybe consider a set of tube shorties for the street to save the OEM manifolds.

It actually drives OK, even with California gas, except for the hot start.

The electric fuel pump is going to solve most of that. There are other things to do to make it more efficient if not purely stock.

[Rice]

I have a 63 406 tri-power and I have issues with the carbs also. It does get very hot under the hood. I'm sure it probably boils when shut down. My problem is with the carbs leaking down. If it sits for days, I have to crank a lot to start and it runs rough until warm. Once it warms up, it runs great, and no problem starting when hot. I pulled the plugs and can see drips on a couple pistons. If I start it often, no problem. This is very frustrating. If I am disrespectful, I guess I could figure out how to post pics.

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by Rice

I have a 63 406 tri-power and I have issues with the carbs also. It does get very hot under the hood. I'm sure it probably boils when shut down. My problem is with the carbs leaking down. If it sits for days, I have to crank a lot to start and it runs rough until warm. Once it warms up, it runs great, and no problem starting when hot. I pulled the plugs and can see drips on a couple pistons. If I start it often, no problem.

This is very frustrating. If I am disrespectful, I guess I could figure out how to post pics.

Why disrespectful? You are asking a question. That is why the forum is here.

What you are experiencing is after shut-down heat soak. The coolant stops moving and internal engine heat flares. It causes the gasoline in the pump to carb(s) line to percolate and expand, lifting the needle off the seat (pressure) and flooding the engine.

What is left in the bowl(s) then evaporates (methanol) (no EVAP) leading to the mechanical pump having to re-prime the system.

Is this a driver, survivor or dedicated resto?

[Rice]

Just an occasional driver to cruise ins and for pleasure. Ha. I was sort of joking as you said earlier to SoCalCoupe it was disrespectful to ask for help and not show picture of an original G code. Wish I could find a solution though. Thanks

[Gene F]

Phoenolic spacer might help. Try Speedway. I have a tri-power on my 57, and it was money well spent.

[KULTULZ]

The only true solution is an electric fuel pump, either retaining the mechanical pump or not.

You need to use phenolic carb spacer(s) as mentioned, a phenolic spacer for the fuel pump (it draws a lot of heat from the engine) and insulate fuel lines in the engine compartment (may look like crap).

That aluminum air cleaner is cast alum and holds a lot of heat. It also acts like a tent to not allow heat to escape.

[Gene F]

Tri-Power. Holley 94's

[KULTULZ]

You know, I was thinkin' ... ... (yeah, I know) ...

If one was to build a vacuum advance DIST with the correct curve(s) with the vacuum advance off manifold vacuum (to allow for the cam events), it just might become somewhat street-able.

Fine tuning on the fuel and maybe adjust the outboard carbs to open a little later. The CR you will have to live with except possible cam timing.

It could be returned to OEM SPEC as desired.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

The only true solution is an electric fuel pump, either retaining the mechanical pump or not.

Let me qualify that statement. There is another way using an inline fuel filter with a relief port, but that will require a return line to the tank. It is not a sure-fire (bad choice of words) cure as an electric pump, but it will help.

[Rice]

Gene F, That's a cool set up

[Gene F]

Thanks. A few minor touches since this photo; I put a piece of wiring harness plastic wrap on the fuel line coming up from the pump. No issues, I just had it so I put it on. The center carb now has a low resistance air filter cartridge. The fore and aft carbs now have the tighter angle on the edge of the butterflies. The phenolic spacer on primary carb.

It sure attracts attention with us older guys when I open the hood at a cruise-in.

[Jeff Norwell]

That is one beautiful car.
I had similar problems. on my 428 tri-power set up and it turned out to be a blown centre power valve.... I am sure you have checked this out.
Our gas all has 10% ethanol up here except Shell Hi test...(around 94 octane)
I run all through my engine with little or no issues.
Going to invest in a drum of Gulf race fuel for future use... 102 octane rating I believe.

Anyhow.. please keep that beautiful Ford as is...

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by Jeff Norwell

That is one beautiful car.
I had similar problems. on my 428 tri-power set up and it turned out to be a blown centre power valve.... I am sure you have checked this out.

Thanks for the complement.


No, I didn't check out the power valves. Just did a partial disassembly/re-assembly. Although I'd really like to have the high-dollar EFI with the factory looking Holley tri-power throttle bodies, I'm not quite ready to give up on the real tri-power. Now that my other car is working, my next step is to remove the carbs and check them more thoroughly.


Thanks for the tip about the power valves, sounds very promising.

[Rice]

my 63

[KULTULZ]

It is beautiful.

Cause it no harm and/or abuse and cherish it.

Takes me back to better days ...

[SoCalCoupe]

Pulled the carbs today and am 75% certain I found a major source of the problem. Gas was leaking from somewhere into the main body of the middle carb even as I lifted if off the manifold. That's consistent with me seeing fuel vapor rising from the middle carb when hot.


Checked the metering block mating surface on the main body and found it to be about 0.017" out of square. According to my "3 Deuces, Version 2" booklet, that's a "VERY CRITICAL" flaw that has to be fixed by machining the surface.


Now to find someone who has the skills to correctly machine the main body of a carb. Any thoughts?


BTW the power valve was fine although a blown power valve would have caused nearly identical symptoms.

[Rice]

I have suspected I may have the same problem, but have not checked them yet. I have read where they can get warped, and I believe some people file them down

[KULTULZ]

Now to find someone who has the skills to correctly machine the main body of a carb. Any thoughts?

- https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ng-blocks.html

- https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how...ey_carburetor/

[Jeff Norwell]

I would speak with Drew Pojedinec, runs Air Fuel Spark.... deals with every Ford carb made.Holley Specialist...
He is very good.... and I mean GOOD.


https://www.afscarbs.com/?fbclid=IwY...98XX6vFMI_pGdg

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by Jeff Norwell

I would speak with Drew Pojedinec, runs Air Fuel Spark.... deals with every Ford carb made.Holley Specialist...
He is very good.... and I mean GOOD.


https://www.afscarbs.com/?fbclid=IwY...98XX6vFMI_pGdg

Thanks for this great referral. Checked it out online; didn't know someone like this existed. Will definitely give him a call.


Although the seller of this car, 18 months ago, claimed that the carbs had been rebuilt; a more accurate report would have been that some imbecile with a hammer and a screwdriver who couldn't count to four hacked away at the carbs while he owned it. I now see what a total mess they are and am too slowly analyzing and recovering. Should have paid much more attention in the beginning.


Hope I don't have to do an engine rebuild from all the raw gas these things have been pumping through.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Jeff Norwell

I would speak with Drew Pojedinec, runs Air Fuel Spark.... deals with every Ford carb made.Holley Specialist...

He is very good.... and I mean GOOD.

https://www.afscarbs.com/?fbclid=IwY...98XX6vFMI_pGdg

... damn! ...

ALSO - https://www.ford6vcarburetion.com/home/joe-bunetic/

[alt63bird]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

... damn! ...

ALSO - https://www.ford6vcarburetion.com/home/joe-bunetic/

Joe Buentic passed away earlier this year (March, I believe). I second Jeff's recommendation for contacting Drew at Air-Fuel-Spark, but be aware as often as he's out to sea, and with all the Facebook posts and emails he gets, he's very particular as to how he responds to inquiries.

BTW I'm trying to find a spare secondary C1AE-AV carb and got a PM in response to a Barn 'wanted' post from a guy calling himself 'cutoff' who just joined the Barn a few days ago saying he had one. With only 10 posts - most of them 'test' messages, I'm real suspicious it could be a scammer since he wanted my phone # for texting me info. As Ronaldus Magnus said, "Trust but Verify."

[SoCalCoupe]

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Originally Posted by alt63bird

I second Jeff's recommendation for contacting Drew at Air-Fuel-Spark, but be aware as often as he's out to sea, and with all the Facebook posts and emails he gets, he's very particular as to how he responds to inquiries.

I sent Drew a pretty detailed email—he replied. I was hoping for a limited rebuild on the center carb, but he prefers to do all three or none. I understand that; I’m self-employed in a service field too, and sometimes selective jobs aren’t worth the time or hassle.


I’m sure he could restore the carbs to factory spec, but like others have said in this thread, the real issue seems to be heat—fuel is boiling over, and a factory rebuild won’t solve that.


I’m now less than 75% convinced my warped main body was the culprit. I carefully filed a couple of high spots—took off very little material—and it sealed fine, so I'm confident to move forward.


I just ordered about $250 in parts, including phenolic spacers. Nothing off-the-shelf fits exactly, so I’ll Dremel them to match. Found enough small issues I can fix to justify seeing this through before jumping to an extremely pricey tri-power EFI system.


One of the missing parts was the center carb’s fuel bowl vent baffle. Installing that might help a bit.

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by alt63bird

BTW I'm trying to find a spare secondary C1AE-AV carb and got a PM in response to a Barn 'wanted' post from a guy calling himself 'cutoff' who just joined the Barn a few days ago saying he had one. With only 10 posts - most of them 'test' messages, I'm real suspicious it could be a scammer since he wanted my phone # for texting me info. As Ronaldus Magnus said, "Trust but Verify."

I’m always happy to exchange ideas with new members—but I don’t do transactions. Ten posts? Fuggedaboutit.


For what it’s worth, I tried to sell a car on Cars.com a few months ago and got hit with a classic scam. I still have the fake cashier’s check:
– The name didn’t match the buyer.
– The address was from one state.
– The routing number was from a different region.
– The phone number that texted me traced to yet another person in yet another state.
– And of course, the check was for “just a little extra to cover shipping.”
Luckily, I’m skeptical by nature. I didn’t deposit the check—just reported the whole thing to Cars.com and walked away.


Scammers are getting clever, but the red flags are still there if you’re paying attention.

[Rice]

I appreciate the updates. Thanks

[SoCalCoupe]

Can't fit more than 1/2" spacer and still close the hood. The only 1/2" spacer I can find is aluminum. Doesn't seem like there's much point in an aluminum spacer is insulation is the goal. Thoughts or alternatives?

[miker98038]

It used to be common to make a spacer out of hardwood or phenolic. Just trace from the gasket. Now mostly done for older carbs. Not difficult, just a bit time consuming. A coping saw and a drill will do it. A drill press is easier.

[KULTULZ]

Here are two choices -

INSULATING SPACER KIT - https://hotrodcarbs.com/store/holley...nsulating.html

INSULATING SPACER KIT w/ CARB FUEL BOWL SHIELDS - https://www.hotrodcarbs.com/store/ho...1/2-thick.html