Stromberg Distributor Question

[19Fordy]

Am trying to gather some feedback on this Stromberg electronic distributor.
Does anyone have any experience as the the quality and reliability of this item?
Sure is pricey. Thanks, JIM
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sbc-11a-12?rrec=true

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Am trying to gather some feedback on this Stromberg electronic distributor.
Does anyone have any experience as the the quality and reliability of this item?
Sure is pricey. Thanks, JIM
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sbc-11a-12?rrec=true

$410.00 at Summit Racing

[tubman]

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...highlight=fire

[19Fordy]

tubman: THANK YOU very much for the excellent feedback on the Stromberg units.

petehoovie: Thank you for posting the big photo. Really helps.

JIM

[aussie merc]

they seem to be a love/hate item some love them others hate them it appears that a lot of problems relate to installation and other associated items [ie electrics condition ] the install direction need to be followed to the letter as they are not forgiving [what electronics are] but at least spares are readily available

[Ol' Ron]

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My concern here is tuning. Without a vacuum signal, How can the ignition timing be controlled for loading conditions of the engine. Did I miss something
Gramps

[flatjack9]

No, you are right.

[19Fordy]

Ron and flatjack: (in purple)
Here is what the tech. info. in the Stromberg add says. Does it make sense in relation to your valid question re: tuning the Stromberg E-Fire Electronic Distributors

They make it sound like you just "dial it in" on the distributor using their timing adjuster on the side of the distributor. Does that make any sense?
Here's the add:

Stromberg E-Fire electronic distributors actually look like they rightfully belong on your traditional flathead motor. They feature a simple, built-in electronic ignition. No points, no condenser, no black or red box, no maintenance--no worries. These crab-style units bolt on like a stocker with a black cap, and they're easy to properly install with just two wires to your regular coil. Order a Stromberg E-Fire electronic distributor for your Ford flathead and bolt it on—it works straight out of the box!

Features and specs:

* 2- or 3-bolt mounting options available to match your application
* Available in your choice of 6 V positive or 12 V negative ground
* Designed as short as possible with hot rod builders in mind, so you can use the stock fan
* Timing adjuster is on the side, so you don't have to turn the whole body
* Static timing, advance rate and max total advance specifically tuned to suit the flathead V8
* Old-school performance tag with a unique ID number
* For use with a points-style 1.5 ohms coil only

[Pech33]

I have a 6 volt that has about 2 miles on it. It is now in a box. I could not get rid of a miss as the rpm increased. Talked to the guys at Millwood and they suggested to adjust the carburetor, I did, no luck. Sent my old helmet to Skip Haney, runs like a top. I was thinking today that I would get in touch with Stromberg and send it back to see if they get the miss while it is on their machine. It could have a defective module, I have no idea. The general problem with electronic distributors is (I hear) when they quit, they quit, no limping home. When I was inquiring of the "Barn" about the Strombergs, I got garbage cans posted in replies. Not very helpful. Some people have no problems with them. Others . . .

[flatmotor40]

I have 1 on mine and no troubles.Had a Mallory and had trouble after a few years.So I went with the Stromberg.

[alchemy]

I like the Mallory in mine. The Mallory that Ford built in 1942. Yes, that's right. The best distributor was built way back in 1942 with a Mallory design.

[Bored&Stroked]

I have a Vertex Magneto in mine . . . points last forever, doesn't need a battery, spark increases as RPM does, has a good advance curve (just no vacuum advance).

Also, it shocks the crap out of me and makes my fillings glow when I'm negligent and get my elbow close to the good ole' Rajay plug wire ends (when adjusting carbs) . . . this wakes me up such that I can pay better attention when driving.

[Ol' Ron]

the best distributor you can use in the Fathead today is the SBC converted by Charley NY with the adjustable advance curve, and vacuum advance. How you use it however, will determine how well your engine runs and the fuel econmy.
Gramps

[deuce lover]

Feedback: After seeing this initial thread I mentioned this dist to a friend(here in France) with a bone stock 21 stud in a '35 Cabriolet here. He ordered one Fri 10/14 (from UK) along with the recommended 1.5 ohm coil and the new Stromberg sp wire set.He had previously converted everything to 12V neg ground and used an alt in place of the generator.He plugged the vacuum advance on the intake . He received it Mon 10/17 and finished the installation today and is very very pleased with the results.Here is a pic of engine compartment before removing and rerouting the heater hoses .He added Sharp heads as good orig ones he could not find here.

[19Fordy]

Excellent. Glad it worked well. Car looks great.
If possible please post photos and explain how you installed your overflow tank/bottle.
Thanks, JIM in FL

[deuce lover]

Jim, He did it so know nothing about it. He is to far away for me to go look at it. Sorry.

[Krylon32]

I have one of Charlies Distributors on my 8BA and a pair of new Strombergs from Baxter's and it runs like a champ. Of course that's on a test stand

[wagoon]

I purchased one of the early E-fires before they added the small clip to keep the wires away from the rotor. It ran great, but then the wires rubbed and it shorted everything out.

I reached out to them and they stood by their product. I was able to send it back in and they rebuilt it and returned it free of charge. I haven't put back in the car yet as the stock distributor is working well. Will probably put back in over the winter.

Reaching out to Charlie from NY now for 8ba distributor for another car. He seems to be the man to speak to. Thanks for all the info.

[Henry Hopper]

I fitted one to my 59a in my 32 roadster... ran perfect, just make sure you use the right coil, he leads etc.standard leads will not work properly.

[hueyhoolihan]

ya, i know, it's been a while, but...

the question i have, is where and how do i mount the external coil it will be needing?

[Flathead Fever]

I hear of so many problems with the 59A electronic distributers. Some guys love them and other have tossed then and gone back to stock. I must have twenty 59A distributers sitting in a box. I'd probably just use one of those stock ones if I ever get around to building a flathead. I've never had a set of points leave me on the side of the road. I ran early Mustangs with factory dual point distributers as daily transportation and never once had a problem with one as long as I changed the points as required. They go up to maximum rpm and beyond without missing. Besides, I just like the nostalgia of points. I know it's not as precise, but for street use there just fine. I was professional fleet mechanic with 300 vehicles and points kept us busy. I would bet I had just as many cars came into the shop with a bad electronic pickup or failed computer as I had bad points but that was a long time ago and the electronics have gotten better. The problem is people don't replace the points until the engine finally quits; they do require "maintenance". The biggest thing today is getting quality points; there is a lot of junk for sale. I keep the old parts catalogs so I can use the part numbers to pick up NOS Motorcraft points off of eBay for older Fords. At the phone company we stocked Motorcraft for the Fords, Delco for The Chevys and Standard (deluxe) Blue Streaks for the Dodges and Plymouths. Those were all exceptional parts. I've been ouit of the mechanic business for 15-years, I'm not sure what's available now.

[busmania]

Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan

ya, i know, it's been a while, but...

the question i have, is where and how do i mount the external coil it will be needing?

I mounted mine right above the distributor. I pulled the top bolt from the timing cover and replaced it with a stud and some double nuts. Then used the coil bracket in said stud. See photos.


IMG_3891.jpg

IMG_3892.jpg

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by busmania

I mounted mine right above the distributor. I pulled the top bolt from the timing cover and replaced it with a stud and some double nuts. Then used the coil bracket in said stud. See photos.


Attachment 567296

Attachment 567297

[hueyhoolihan]

exactly what i was looking for! thanks

it looks to be mounted horizontally just above the distributor cap as you noted, kept the standard sparkplug wire lead tubes and ran each set of four wires as they exited the tubes between the coil (if necessary) and the timing cover...clever. nice and neat and cooled by the fan. excellent!

BTW, mind me asking where you found that clamp?

[busmania]

If I remember correctly the clamp came with the coil.

[hueyhoolihan]

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Originally Posted by busmania

If I remember correctly the clamp came with the coil.

well the distributor, coil and wires have been delivered but have yet to open the box, so will do that. probably today.

as i have yet to get the engine to even turn over with a 6 volt battery, it will be a few days at least before installing the distributor coil and wires. as i am waiting on delivery of new 00 battery cables before removing the 8v battery, their puny cables and removing excess paint from around the grounding studs on the firewall.

then i can install the 6v battery and if it will start the car, only then will i attempt to replace the current distributor with the e-fire and the new coil and plug wires.

one step at a time, i guess.

[hueyhoolihan]

deleted

[hueyhoolihan]

deleted

[Drbrown]

My experience was with Pentronix modules getting sensitive after some use and burning out. I think that electric systems that have been changed to use an Alternator is more prone to throw a voltage spike than a stock generator. Jim Lindner use to be our go to guy re electronic ignitions and he couldn't solve the burn out problem BUT had a friend who mounted a stock voltage regulator to his alternetor !

[hueyhoolihan]

installed 00 battery cables and cleaned paint off and around grounding lugs yesterday...car now starts on a 6v battery. so will be installing e-fire distributor, wires and coil soon.

may move grounding wire from firewall lug to one of the starter's mounting bolts. and possibly remove what may be unnecessary grounding straps...depending on the outcome of a few tests.

i think i might remove the sparkplug tubes too. not sure if they will be a hinderance or help with the new distributor. thus far, i've found them more of a hinderance than anything else.

[hueyhoolihan]

installed the e-fire today...

car didn't start, will be double checking installation tomorrow. ...not that i didn't do that today. and i'll be researching possible errors i've made in the installation. i'll be doing that this evening...all evening.

here's what i did today:

i first removed the old distributor, coil and wires and their tubes.

then i installed the e-fire distributor, connected the wires to the cap and sparkplugs according to their document, then connected coil wire to the new coil (also from Stromberg).

then the white distributor wire was connected to the wire that i removed from and powered the diver's helmet coil. that wire, i assume it will now power the e-fire's electronics. then connected the black wire to the negative post on the bew coil (stromberg e-fire 44 1.5ohm coil) and then used my own wire to connect the positive post on the new coil to the engine so as to ground it. then, after it failed to start, i verified the e-fire is getting 6v current to its white wire when ignition is turned on.

have yet to verify i'm getting spark to plugs, or getting spark out of coil. i need a remote starter switch for that and i don't have one. i'll be hopefully picking one up tomorrow at Harbor Freight or Napa.

a bit of a disappointment, i'll admit...

the only thing i can think of that could be wrong is that i've got a ballast resistor or resistor wire between the ignition switch and the distributor's white wire. and i may have, the truth is i don't know as if yet. anyway, if so, it's possible the e-fire distributor is not getting the correct amount of voltage it needs. geez, i hope that's the problem because i can't think of anything else at this time.

if so, the remedy would be to run a wire directly from the ignition switch to the white wire on the distributor, thus bypassing any ballast resistor. ...big PITA and don't want to do that.

[KiWinUS]

Did you wire it as per E-fire instructions? For the 6volt E-fire the wiring is different than I have ever seen. The one I tried started right away but just didn’t sound right I replaced with a used crab and engine ran like a Swiss watch. Sent E-fire back and had a stock crab rebuilt. If wiring to E-fire was incorrect it may have now damaged it. Sorry I don’t remember their wiring schematic.

[busmania]

On mine I have to run a “button” spacer between the efire and cam. Otherwise the efire shaft is too short to engage the cam. Could this be your issue? Is the efire spinning when you turn the starter?

This part
https://www.google.com/search?q=flat...shop=apv&pvs=0

[KiWinUS]

6volt Stromberg wiring

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

6volt Stromberg wiring

[hueyhoolihan]

latest update on the e-fire distributor...it's not good.

note that this post is with respect to the Stromberg E-Fire Electronic Distributor (6v positive ground) and to a lesser extent the Stromberg E-Fire High Performance Sparkplug Wire Kit.

this comment assumes that the E-Fire distributor and E-Fire sparkplug kit bought from Lucky's Speed shop were the latest up-to-date offerings from Stromberg.

first the distributor...

installing the distributor was straight forward until i found that one of the three bolts that hold the distributor to the timing cover will not fit past the driver's side cap's retaining clip! (if anyone at Stromberg ever even tried to install their three hole distributor on a flathead timing cover they would have noticed it!) it's close, but it does not fit unless one of the six sides of the bolt head is shaved, preferably all six. which afterward means that neither a standard socket nor a box wrench will fit it. and even an open end wrench becomes problematical. i suppose one could source a shorter bolt, but then...well...who knows where that will lead?

to be fair, i guess it's possible. although unlikely, that the three well-worn bolts that secure my distributor housing are not originals and that the originals were a few millimeters shorter and so would fit, but there's no excuse, IMO, for the following...

a more egregious engineering oversight involves the rotor.

every rotor on every distributor i've ever seen has some method of securing the rotor to the distributor's shaft. it usually involves a clip that creates a bit of friction. they usually "snap", gently into place. sometimes a small screw into the end of the distributor's shaft. but there is no such provision on my E-Fire distributor's rotor. and it doesn't look to me that one ever existed. the rotor slids over the "D" shaped end of the distributor shaft, but with at least a 1/16" of space all around it! such that when attempting to mount the distributor housing to the timing cover, the rotor falls to the ground! essentially the rotor only maintains it's position WRT the eight posts in the cap by trapping it between the cap and the shaft! can this be?

so it was not surprising that the car would not start and with an hours worth of work ran for about five seconds then stalled and would never start again! of course, i assumed i had done something wrong and spent entire two days double checking everything, until i discovered that the rotor was essentially flopping around inside the cap!

i have since removed it and am now running and starting well with my old OEM diver's helmet distributor from 1941.

now the E-fire sparkplug wires...

because i could not easily reuse the sparkplug wires on the old diver's helmet distributor, i bought the Stromberg recommended High Performance Sparkplug Kit.

the connectors to the sparkplugs must be crimped on by the purchaser, as is common in most sparkplug kits i've installed (and i have installed successfully a couple of them), and so the boot must be threaded over the end of the sparkplug wire before trimming off the insulating material around the core.

a brief description of the sparkplug wire's construction: the Stromberg E-Fire High Performance Sparkplug wires have 1) a conductive filament core, surrounded by 2) a thin coil of metal about a two millimeters in diameter, surrounded by 3) black rubber several millimeters in diameter, surrounded by 4) a fancy colored multi-stranded nylon braided sheath that is in turn covered with a 5) clear plastic sheath.

and here's the problem...the inside diameter of the boot is WAY TOO SMALL to accommodate the wire that must pass through it, even with a generous amount of the very slickest of silicone lubricant. the clear plastic and the fancy braided nylon simply bunch up as one desperately attempts to push the boot over the wire. why do they bunch up? because the clear plastic outermost sheath is not bonded to the nylon that is in turn not bonded to the black rubber!

i have a suspicion that the boots did fit at one time but only before they added the fancy (unbonded) nylon sheath over the rubber and before they realized the nylon was not up to the heat and/or abrasion it was experiencing in the engine bay and decided to add yet another layer (unbonded again) over the (unbonded) nylon layer.

this accretion of (unbonded) layers inevitably increased the diameter of the wire but the boots in the kit were never changed! the crimps suffer a similar problem, but to a lesser degree.

two eight hour days and about $700 wasted; the distributor will sit on the shelf or be thrown out, the wires are already in the trash, and now i have, of course, no need for the Stromberg 44 coil. all in all a bad show, IMO

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan

latest update on the e-fire distributor...it's not good.

note that this post is with respect to the Stromberg E-Fire Electronic Distributor (6v positive ground) and to a lessor extent the Stromberg E-Fire High Performance Sparkplug Wire Kit.

this comment assumes that the E-Fire distributor and E-Fire sparkplug kit bought from Lucky's Speed shop were the latest up-to-date offerings from Stromberg.

first the distributor...

installing the distributor was straight forward until i found that one of the three bolts that hold the distributor to the timing cover will not fit past the driver's side cap's retaining clip! (if anyone at Stromberg ever even tried to install their three hole distributor on a flathead timing cover they would have noticed it!) it's close, but it does not fit unless one of the six sides of the bolt head is shaved, preferably all six. which afterward means that neither a standard socket nor a box wrench will fit it. and even an open end wrench becomes problematical. i suppose one could source a shorter bolt, but then...well...who knows where that will lead?

to be fair, i guess it's possible. although unlikely, that the three well-worn bolts that secure my distributor housing are not originals and that the originals were a few millimeters shorter and so would fit, but there's no excuse, IMO, for the following...

a more egregious engineering oversight involves the rotor.

every rotor on every distributor i've ever seen has some method of securing the rotor to the distributor's shaft. it usually involves a clip that creates a bit of friction. they usually "snap", gently into place. sometimes a small screw into the end of the distributor's shaft. but there is no such provision on my E-Fire distributor's rotor. and it doesn't look to me that one ever existed. the rotor slids over the "D" shaped end of the distributor shaft, but with at least a 1/16" of space all around it! such that when attempting to mount the distributor housing to the timing cover, the rotor falls to the ground! essentially the rotor only maintains it's position WRT the eight posts in the cap by trapping it between the cap and the shaft! can this be?

so it was not surprising that the car would not start and with an hours worth of work ran for about five seconds then stalled and would never start again! of course, i assumed i had done something wrong and spent entire two days double checking everything, until i discovered that the rotor was essentially flopping around inside the cap!

i have since removed it and am now running and starting well with my old OEM diver's helmet distributor from 1941.

now the E-fire sparkplug wires...

because i could not easily reuse the sparkplug wires on the old diver's helmet distributor, i bought the Stromberg recommended High Performance Sparkplug Kit.

the connectors to the sparkplugs must be crimped on by the purchaser, as is common in most sparkplug kits i've installed (and i have installed successfully a couple of them), and so the boot must be threaded over the end of the sparkplug wire before trimming off the insulating material around the core.

a brief description of the sparkplug wire's construction: the Stromberg E-Fire High Performance Sparkplug wires have 1) a conductive filament core, surrounded by 2) a thin coil of metal about a two millimeters in diameter, surrounded by 3) black rubber several millimeters in diameter, surrounded by 4) a fancy colored multi-stranded nylon braided sheath that is in turn covered with a 5) clear plastic sheath.

and here's the problem...the inside diameter of the boot is WAY TOO SMALL to accommodate the wire that must pass through it, even with a generous amount of the very slickest of silicone lubricant. the clear plastic and the fancy braided nylon simply bunch up as one desperately attempts to push the boot over the wire. why do they bunch up? because the clear plastic outermost sheath is not bonded to the nylon that is in turn not bonded to the black rubber!

i have a suspicion that the boots did fit at one time but only before they added the fancy (unbonded) nylon sheath over the rubber and before they realized the nylon was not up to the heat and/or abrasion it was experiencing in the engine bay and decided to add yet another layer (unbonded again) over the (unbonded) nylon layer.

this accretion of (unbonded) layers inevitably increased the diameter of the wire but the boots in the kit were never changed! the crimps suffer a similar problem, but to a lesser degree.

two eight hour days and about $700 wasted; the distributor will sit on the shelf or be thrown out, the wires are already in the trash, and now i have, of course, no need for the Stromberg 44 coil. all in all a bad show, IMO

Very detailed prognosis. Thank you. Basically the same end results as I had. Pure junk. Stick with the great Ford distributor.

[alchemy]

Huey, you seem to like installing new fangled parts on your old Ford, when others have recommended to just rebuild the original parts. I’m glad you learned this lesson this time. I sure hope you get the gist for your spindle “problem” too.

[Flathead Fever]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

My concern here is tuning. Without a vacuum signal, How can the ignition timing be controlled for loading conditions of the engine. Did I miss something
Gramps

I'm assuming those aftermarket carb style distributors have mechanical weights inside to provide the advance. My '66 Shelby GT-350 has a factory dual point mechanical only advance distributor. Most of the HIPO Ford engines in the 60s only had the mechanical advance timing, no vacuum advance. It was because when you mashed the gas the vacuum dropped to prevent pinging, but then you were losing power. You didn't want the vacuum advance backing off the timing under acceleration on a high-performance car so on they were equipped with mechanical advance only distributors. They worked just fine; except you had to run premium gas because of the compression but also because of the mechanical advanced timing. I 've never looked at one of the new distributors, something on those new Ford flathead electronic distributors has to be providing the advance so I assume it has weights and springs inside. If a dual point Ford distributor can take a 289 to 7000 rpms without a misfire, I figure a dual point crab distributor on a flathead can do the job at 5000 rpm.

[busmania]

Interesting. If you take the clip that holds the cap on, off, the 3rd bolt slides in no problem. Then put the clip back on. Then that bolt is there forever, even when you take the distributor off it just hangs out in the spot on the distributor.

I did not have the same wire issues and honestly am having a hard time following. I will re read.


Edit - re read again
Re rotor- that’s strange. Maybe the wrong one? I’ve ordered 3 stromberg rotors and all have fit no problem.
Re wires- sounds like something was sent wrong.

I don’t mean to defend this kit but I’ve had nothing but a positive experience with mine. Your review seems a little similar to the Amazon 1 star review that are like “the package arrived damaged” is that a problem? Absolutely but it doesn’t speak to the actual product. In my opinion, you were sent the wrong parts. Who did you order from?perhaps I’m wrong but the wrong size boots and wrong rotor don’t mean the stromberg itself is bad.

Not trying to be a dick but EVERY running problem I have had (and there’s been a few) that I post about on this forum everyone goes “it’s the stromberg, no doubt.” Guess what, not a single running issue ended up being stromberg related and mine is running strong. Your mileage may vary. Oh, one time I overheated my engine massively and the rotor metal piece detached from the plastic. Can I blame stromberg, sure, but their rotor
Probably isn’t designed to run in extremely overheated summer temps. I’m glad the rotor failed before the engine fried quite honestly.

Everyone can flame away, I’m ready to take it as an inexperienced hot rodder that happens to actually think their stromberg is running great. Got My stock crab waiting(that I bought the last time everyone thought my issues were stromberg related…turned out the brand new fuel pump with 4 miles on it was bad) in the wings for when the stromberg actually shits the bed.

Also, nothing you stated says the actual distributor is bad…unless I missed something? Aftermarket parts take some tweaking and refining (new plug boots). Nothing new. I may be a Flathead newbie but I’m no aftermarket parts newbie spanning several makes and over 30 years hobby experience.

[hueyhoolihan]

Originally Posted by busmania

Interesting. If you take the clip that holds the cap on, off, the 3rd bolt slides in no problem. Then put the clip back on. Then that bolt is there forever, even when you take the distributor off it just hangs out in the spot on the distributor.

I did not have the same wire issues and honestly am having a hard time following. I will re read.


Edit - re read again
Re rotor- that’s strange. Maybe the wrong one? I’ve ordered 3 stromberg rotors and all have fit no problem.
Re wires- sounds like something was sent wrong.

I don’t mean to defend this kit but I’ve had nothing but a positive experience with mine. Your review seems a little similar to the Amazon 1 star review that are like “the package arrived damaged” is that a problem? Absolutely but it doesn’t speak to the actual product. In my opinion, you were sent the wrong parts. Who did you order from?perhaps I’m wrong but the wrong size boots and wrong rotor don’t mean the stromberg itself is bad.

Not trying to be a dick but EVERY running problem I have had (and there’s been a few) that I post about on this forum everyone goes “it’s the stromberg, no doubt.” Guess what, not a single running issue ended up being stromberg related and mine is running strong. Your mileage may vary. Oh, one time I overheated my engine massively and the rotor metal piece detached from the plastic. Can I blame stromberg, sure, but their rotor
Probably isn’t designed to run in extremely overheated summer temps. I’m glad the rotor failed before the engine fried quite honestly.

Everyone can flame away, I’m ready to take it as an inexperienced hot rodder that happens to actually think their stromberg is running great. Got My stock crab waiting(that I bought the last time everyone thought my issues were stromberg related…turned out the brand new fuel pump with 4 miles on it was bad) in the wings for when the stromberg actually shits the bed.

Also, nothing you stated says the actual distributor is bad…unless I missed something? Aftermarket parts take some tweaking and refining (new plug boots). Nothing new. I may be a Flathead newbie but I’m no aftermarket parts newbie spanning several makes and over 30 years hobby experience.

yes, i agree, nothing i said says the actual distributor is bad except perhaps the rotor. it was intentional. the intent of the post was to point out why it's now on the shelf and the wires are in the trash.

please post a pic of your rotor and/or explain on how it attaches securely to the distributor shaft.

and it may help, if you post a pic of your e-fire performance sparkplug wires too. we may not have the same ones, as i suspect at one time they were plain black rubber.

[rich b]

What did Stromberg tech say about the problems.

[tubman]

I'm having a hard time believing that Stromberg would try to pass off such a shoddy piece of junk. Are you sure there is not someone out there passing off a second-rate clone as the real thing?

[hueyhoolihan]

i had posted a similar comment on a Stromberg sponsored Youtube channel that focused on the wires.

Stromberg replied and tried to support their product by making a specious argument that went like this:

We have used our braided wires on a number of projects including my own 383ci Chevy motor in a 1946 Ford Coupe. I agree that it is not as easy as with the plain wires, but the kit comes with all of the distributor cap boots and terminals installed. Some-one actually installed them on every kit. And they look pretty good.


this was my response:

the boots for use on the sparkplugs and those that the manufacturer managed to attach to the wires for use on the caps are different boots. and so it's of little importance to point out that a different boot was successfully applied to the other end of the wire during the manufacturing process.

and i'm sure that i can't, nor can anyone reasonably expect a purchaser to perform tasks on the wires that the manufacturer can.

i only hope for Stromberg's sake that that sort of argument or logic is not universally considered valid at Stromberg.

[Bored&Stroked]

RE: The rotor.

Sounds like the rotor didn't fit well . . . maybe you just needed another rotor?

I've worked on plenty of distributors and magnetos and most of the Ford/Chrysler type distributors (and most mags) do not have a metal clip inside the rotor and also didn't have any sort of "set screw" to hold them onto the shaft. Modern SBC/BBC distributors are a different breed of cat - they obviously had two screws to hold the rotor on.

The rotors on the non-GM distributors are typically designed to have a nice snug fit onto the shaft - with no additional internal clips or screws needed. If your rotor was loose and did not fit well, I'd be suspect of the rotor itself.

[hueyhoolihan]

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Originally Posted by rich b

What did Stromberg tech say about the problems.

stromberg tech was contacted by email. there was no animosity on my part, nor recriminations nor accusations, just the facts. and i purposely did not mention the issues i had with their e-fire sparkplug wire kit ). here is a copy of their e-mail response:

"Hi Huey,
Sorry to hear about this issue
We do check everything before they go out. Please check it is seated down properly. They have little ribs in the plastic which are an interference fit with the shaft.
Let me know if you have no luck.
All the best
Clive"

i responded with an email thanking them for a response and that i'd check the fit again.

today i sent stromberg another email inclosing a link to a youtube video i created demonstrating the rotor's looseness ( https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9O5pJXAXzFg ) with text requesting their opinion as to the looseness.

more to come...

[hueyhoolihan]

they are sending me a new rotor... let's just say i'm not convinced that this will fix the problem. and in addition...

what they should do, for a company as large as this, and problem that clearly may be a quality control issue, would be to send an entire new unit. and verify that the rotor fits the shaft before they send it to me. then contact the retailer (Lucky's Speedshop) and verify that their inventory meets Stromberg's quality control standards.

but rather, they've chosen to possibly waste my time and further irritate a customer, with another rotor in the hope that it will work, just in order to save a few bucks. very, very short-sighted IMO.

[Pech33]

Here’s my efire and my Diver’s Helmet . One works! My efire backfired above idle, put Skip Haney diver’s helmet back on. The explanation about fitting the plug wires into the boots is just about what I experienced. I would like to fool around with the efire . . . but why? My rotor fits snugly on the efire, there are two raised portions inside the rotor, pushes on securely. That’s not my problem.

[hueyhoolihan]

this is the email i received from Stromberg today, after they had received and viewed my video WRT rotor fitment....

"I just checked the video and I can see you need a replacement.
Send your shipping address and phone number and we can get one straight out to you.
Thanks for taking the trouble to make the video.
All the best
Clive

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Pech33

Here’s my efire and my Diver’s Helmet . One works! My efire backfired above idle, put Skip Haney diver’s helmet back on. The explanation about fitting the plug wires into the boots is just about what I experienced. I would like to fool around with the efire . . . but why? My rotor fits snugly on the efire, there are two raised portions inside the rotor, pushes on securely. That’s not my problem.

[hueyhoolihan]

Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan

they are sending me a new rotor... let's just say i'm not convinced that this will fix the problem. and in addition...

what they should do, for a company as large as this, and problem that clearly may be a quality control issue, would be to send an entire new unit. and verify that the rotor fits the shaft before they send it to me. then contact the retailer (Lucky's Speedshop) and verify that their inventory meets Stromberg's quality control standards.

but rather, they've chosen to possibly waste my time and further irritate a customer, with another rotor in the hope that it will work, just in order to save a few bucks. very, very short-sighted IMO.

i received the new rotor that was sent with an intent to fix the problem.

it did not fix the problem. the new rotor is identical in all respects to the one i had. the hole that fits over the distributor's shaft is just too large.

i anticipated this...and have just sent customer service and email requesting an entirely new unit. and added that it be beneficial if they were to verify that the rotor fit on the shaft correctly and securely before mailing.

needless to say (...taking a big breath here...) i'm not pleased...

[hueyhoolihan]

this is a copy of the email i sent to Stromberg today:

clive,

i received the replacement rotor today. it does not fit either. the problem is the same as that in the video i sent you.. it's too big for the shaft.

so at this time, i think a replacement unit that has had the rotor verified to fit the shaft is in order. if you want the old one back, please include a pre-paid shipping label and i'll return it in the packaging used to send the replacement, including the replacement rotor.

regards,

huey


this is a copy of their response to the email:

Hi Huey,

As I said before, all of our rotors and shafts are made in quantity to the same consistent sizes. We never have a problem with fit, yet you seem to have a problem with whatever you try.

You are welcome to ship it to us to check it out at any time. After being caught out many many times, we never send out any parts without receiving the return first. I don’t know of any other company who does different. It’s all in our warranty statement.

regards

Clive

[ford38v8]

Huey, your posting about your problems with Stromberg are like preaching to the choir. I’m sure you must remember being advised to stick with original Ford parts, and of reading similar advice to others. You’re not alone in your displeasure with offshore replacement parts, but many of us have learned from the mistakes of others. Here’s hoping you can shrug it off to the learning experience and enjoy the hobby after all.