Tri-power issues

[KULTULZ]

I have no idea of how you are driving the car on the street now with available pump gas.

As mentioned, ethanol laced fuel and heat soak are your main concerns. That big a$$ ACL ASSY also acts like an umbrella and won't allow engine heat to escape easily, especially after shutdown (heat soak).

11.4 to 1 CR and a very aggressive timing curve (all mechanical with no vacuum for the street).

READ HERE - https://enginefacts.com/ford406/

READ HERE - https://petroleumservicecompany.com/...ane-race-fuel/

I have seen these 5 GAL cans in gas stations close to race tracks.

If you want a true street driver, maybe consider building a mild 390/428 for the street and use the 3X2 with carb or TBI if you want the wow factor. Store the 406.

Who makes the other 3X2 TBI setup?

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

I have no idea of how you are driving the car on the street now with available pump gas.

11.4 to 1 CR and a very aggressive timing curve (all mechanical with no vacuum for the street).

If you want a true street driver, maybe consider building a mild 390/428 for the street and use the 3X2 with carb or TBI if you want the wow factor. Store the 406.

Who makes the other 3X2 TBI setup?

My driving style is smooth cruising and optimizing fuel economy. It actually drives OK, even with California gas, except for the hot start. I'm used to keeping the RPMs up and not bogging down a cammed up engine. I love the sound and the thought that I CAN put my foot into it.


Yes, mechanical distributor, no vacuum. There's not even a vacuum port on the whole tripower setup except for the PCV valve (it was on some but not all setups.)


That's a thought, mild/stock 390, store the 406. Actually, that's an economical solution. I could probably replace the the whole engine for less than the cost of the tripower EFI. Another option is to keep the 406 engine and just get a new 4 bbl intake and a high quality carb. However, I couldn't resist buying the authentic G-code 406 tri-power. I'm really into it. Just spent big bucks getting a set of authentic 15x5.5 cat-eye Hi-Po wheels too.


The other tri-power EFI I was looking at was Autotrend EFI in Diamond Springs CA.

[KULTULZ]

Another option is to keep the 406 engine and just get a new 4 bbl intake and a high quality carb. However, I couldn't resist buying the authentic G-code 406 tri-power. I'm really into it. Just spent big bucks getting a set of authentic 15x5.5 cat-eye Hi-Po wheels too.

Well, the engine itself (if a true survivor and never molested) is most likely more valuable than the car itself (other than it's being a GENUINE 1962 G-CODE CAR).

If you break down the engine, the value is gone unless it is a very detailed overhaul.

This car was never meant to be a daily driver, it was meant to qualify the engine for NASCAR and only nuts (such as myself) would even consider buying one.

Now it is your car, period. You do what you want but another consideration may be selling it (have you ever had it appraised?) and buying something you can more easily modify for today's street driving or a power change if you love the car (and believe me, I fully understand that one - my green eyes are misting).

What happened to the KH 15" wheels that came on it?

KULTULZ - Jealous and lusting in W(BY GOD)V ...

[KULTULZ]

The other tri-power EFI I was looking at was Autotrend EFI in Diamond Springs CA.

!!! DAMN !!!

They have their shiat stacked in one neat pile ...

The trouble (I see) with the other vendor is their using whatever injectors and/or sensors. You want at the minimum BOSCH QUALITY parts on the setup and a ECU that can be accessed easily and modified/tuned (if using GM DELCO sensors try not to use their WEATHER-PACK CONNECTORS as that draws away detail).

I also noticed that they describe modifying an intake manifold if needed. If your intake is cherry and nos. correct, you may want to find another take-off to modify (IMO)

The FE FORUM has a wealth of info and the guys there are dedicated.

Please keep the board updated as to which rout you choose to go with.

BTW-

If you built say a Q-CODE 428 (torque) for the street with reasonable CR and cam events, this system would give you one hell of a driving experience.

I would maybe use the cast shorties but have an H-PIPE made to accept the O2 SENSOR as I would hate to think of locating an OEM H-PIPE (inlet pipe) if later the car goes to full restoration.

Maybe consider a set of tube shorties for the street to save the OEM manifolds.

It actually drives OK, even with California gas, except for the hot start.

The electric fuel pump is going to solve most of that. There are other things to do to make it more efficient if not purely stock.

[Rice]

I have a 63 406 tri-power and I have issues with the carbs also. It does get very hot under the hood. I'm sure it probably boils when shut down. My problem is with the carbs leaking down. If it sits for days, I have to crank a lot to start and it runs rough until warm. Once it warms up, it runs great, and no problem starting when hot. I pulled the plugs and can see drips on a couple pistons. If I start it often, no problem. This is very frustrating. If I am disrespectful, I guess I could figure out how to post pics.

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by Rice

I have a 63 406 tri-power and I have issues with the carbs also. It does get very hot under the hood. I'm sure it probably boils when shut down. My problem is with the carbs leaking down. If it sits for days, I have to crank a lot to start and it runs rough until warm. Once it warms up, it runs great, and no problem starting when hot. I pulled the plugs and can see drips on a couple pistons. If I start it often, no problem.

This is very frustrating. If I am disrespectful, I guess I could figure out how to post pics.

Why disrespectful? You are asking a question. That is why the forum is here.

What you are experiencing is after shut-down heat soak. The coolant stops moving and internal engine heat flares. It causes the gasoline in the pump to carb(s) line to percolate and expand, lifting the needle off the seat (pressure) and flooding the engine.

What is left in the bowl(s) then evaporates (methanol) (no EVAP) leading to the mechanical pump having to re-prime the system.

Is this a driver, survivor or dedicated resto?

[Rice]

Just an occasional driver to cruise ins and for pleasure. Ha. I was sort of joking as you said earlier to SoCalCoupe it was disrespectful to ask for help and not show picture of an original G code. Wish I could find a solution though. Thanks

[Gene F]

Phoenolic spacer might help. Try Speedway. I have a tri-power on my 57, and it was money well spent.

[KULTULZ]

The only true solution is an electric fuel pump, either retaining the mechanical pump or not.

You need to use phenolic carb spacer(s) as mentioned, a phenolic spacer for the fuel pump (it draws a lot of heat from the engine) and insulate fuel lines in the engine compartment (may look like crap).

That aluminum air cleaner is cast alum and holds a lot of heat. It also acts like a tent to not allow heat to escape.

[Gene F]

Tri-Power. Holley 94's

[KULTULZ]

You know, I was thinkin' ... ... (yeah, I know) ...

If one was to build a vacuum advance DIST with the correct curve(s) with the vacuum advance off manifold vacuum (to allow for the cam events), it just might become somewhat street-able.

Fine tuning on the fuel and maybe adjust the outboard carbs to open a little later. The CR you will have to live with except possible cam timing.

It could be returned to OEM SPEC as desired.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

The only true solution is an electric fuel pump, either retaining the mechanical pump or not.

Let me qualify that statement. There is another way using an inline fuel filter with a relief port, but that will require a return line to the tank. It is not a sure-fire (bad choice of words) cure as an electric pump, but it will help.

[Rice]

Gene F, That's a cool set up

[Gene F]

Thanks. A few minor touches since this photo; I put a piece of wiring harness plastic wrap on the fuel line coming up from the pump. No issues, I just had it so I put it on. The center carb now has a low resistance air filter cartridge. The fore and aft carbs now have the tighter angle on the edge of the butterflies. The phenolic spacer on primary carb.

It sure attracts attention with us older guys when I open the hood at a cruise-in.

[Jeff Norwell]

That is one beautiful car.
I had similar problems. on my 428 tri-power set up and it turned out to be a blown centre power valve.... I am sure you have checked this out.
Our gas all has 10% ethanol up here except Shell Hi test...(around 94 octane)
I run all through my engine with little or no issues.
Going to invest in a drum of Gulf race fuel for future use... 102 octane rating I believe.

Anyhow.. please keep that beautiful Ford as is...

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by Jeff Norwell

That is one beautiful car.
I had similar problems. on my 428 tri-power set up and it turned out to be a blown centre power valve.... I am sure you have checked this out.

Thanks for the complement.


No, I didn't check out the power valves. Just did a partial disassembly/re-assembly. Although I'd really like to have the high-dollar EFI with the factory looking Holley tri-power throttle bodies, I'm not quite ready to give up on the real tri-power. Now that my other car is working, my next step is to remove the carbs and check them more thoroughly.


Thanks for the tip about the power valves, sounds very promising.

[Rice]

my 63

[KULTULZ]

It is beautiful.

Cause it no harm and/or abuse and cherish it.

Takes me back to better days ...

[SoCalCoupe]

Pulled the carbs today and am 75% certain I found a major source of the problem. Gas was leaking from somewhere into the main body of the middle carb even as I lifted if off the manifold. That's consistent with me seeing fuel vapor rising from the middle carb when hot.


Checked the metering block mating surface on the main body and found it to be about 0.017" out of square. According to my "3 Deuces, Version 2" booklet, that's a "VERY CRITICAL" flaw that has to be fixed by machining the surface.


Now to find someone who has the skills to correctly machine the main body of a carb. Any thoughts?


BTW the power valve was fine although a blown power valve would have caused nearly identical symptoms.

[Rice]

I have suspected I may have the same problem, but have not checked them yet. I have read where they can get warped, and I believe some people file them down