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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 69
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My 26 T roadster starter is broken. I don’t know much about starters but thought maybe the Bendix spring broken. I bought a replacement kit off of Langs for about 100$, includes everything, not just the spring. The spring in my starter is actually ok, but the entire mechanism that sits on the shaft is broken.
The issue I am having is that I can’t this piece off of the shaft. I did get the first piece off land the little metal key out, but the remainder is stuck. Any advice? Photo attached for context. Thank you in advance! |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 69
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,337
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All it takes is some unusual wear or damage to the starter shaft to keep the parts from easily sliding off of it. You may need a small two jaw puller to help pull the remaining parts. I only suggest a two jaw due to the confined area around the pedals. A slide hammer may work if it fit in there. Pulling the starter always is a job on a model T due to the way it is designed.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Longbranch, Washington
Posts: 625
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Rotorwrench is on the money - CAREFULLY push the remnants of Bendix back on and dress down the shaft - most likely a burr on the keyway or spring retainer bolt hole.
The spring eyes should be directly across from each other. |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 69
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Thank you! I managed to get it off. It was very tough! It broke in multiple places. Now the new Bendix won’t go on smoothly either. Do I need to sand down the shaft? Thanks for the advice!
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#6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 69
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,342
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Smooth the shaft enough till things go together easily. Are you using a 12 volt battery to start your car? If so, it is hard on things.
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 69
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Sanded the shaft and now things fit nice, except at the base. Getting everything back together is tougher than I thought!
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Longbranch, Washington
Posts: 625
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Balance ring coming from together is a common problem - spark advanced & 12 v. just speed it up !!!
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,337
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I use small India honing stones to just massage any light scoring or high spot from fretting or damage. Smooth after with gray Scotch Brite pads. Save the armature shaft for as long as possible.
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#11 |
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 69
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Hi everyone - I got the shaft cleaned up enough that I can slip on and off the bendix. The issue I am having now is that the distal end of the gear is a 2cm high cylinder that is a little bit wide. When it gets to the distal end of the shaft, there is a metal housing that surrounds the shaft and that cylindrical piece fits very snug. In fact, I have to tap it in with a hammer. Is this ok? Does the bendix need to rotate freely around the shaft? I think not. But wanted to see what the experts here thought. My idea is to sand down the distal bendix cylindrical part to it’s not as snug. He other issue I am having is that with it being so tight it is hard to line up the hole on the shaft with the bendix so as to put the bolt in with the spring and have the end of the bolt sit in the shaft hole. I figure if I get things looser it might be easier.
Lastly, I’m worried I may have burned out the starter all together. If I leave the bendix off the shaft and hook it back up to the battery, can I test the motor by pressing down on the starter button? I;m summing so and that it is safe, even without the bendix cover on. Is this the case? I imagine the shaft will simply rotate. Hoping I don’t need a new starter Al together. They are costly. Thank you in advance! |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,337
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The spiral gear should rotate freely. The spring coupling also has to allow the spring to wind that little bit and return and yes, you can run the motor without the starter drive assembly. The spring is a buffer that takes some of the torque shock out during operation. Just make sure you use 6-volts. The cover protects the starter drive from damage if something gets too close.
Last edited by rotorwrench; 05-19-2025 at 08:12 PM. |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Longbranch, Washington
Posts: 625
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If the Bendix unit is a new repro, chances are the head sleeve is a few thousands too large on the O.D. If your original head slides in & out of the starter snout, it's most likely the repro head.
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#14 |
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 69
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After a lot of sanding and filing I finally got my bendix to fit. I pulled the starter off the T and made sure it fit right in the shaft. Also hooked it up to my battery and the shaft spins just fine. Tomorrow I’ll reassemble and hopefully it works! Then back to my old problem - which is my exhaust manifold glow red hot!
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,342
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Maybe the car is running too retarded or lean.
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#16 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 69
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New problem. Got everything hooked back up. I’m not sure the Bendix gear is engaging with the flywheel to turn the engine over. Also, when I press the starter button it gets very hot after a few pushed. A puff of smoke even came out of it! It’s still working. Any suggestions from the collective? I’m new at all this. Thank you!
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,342
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Loose connections and shorts can cause these symptoms. Are you using 12 Volts?
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