Binks Model 7 spray gun

[Larry Jenkins]

Can it be used to shoot PPG Concept? Any modifications needed?

[Mitch//pa]

A quick search brings up your own past thread on the subject

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...3031&showall=1

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

A quick search brings up your own past thread on the subject

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...3031&showall=1

One thing you will experience when you get to be 84 years old is some loss of memory.

I wondered when I wrote this tonight if I had asked this before.

Vince's answer was pretty clear. That's all I wanted.

[Tinbasher]

You may find that you'll have to add a little more reducer to the Concept, you'll see when you start spraying it. In the old days I used to use a "Five count" off of the stir stick and the reduction was good. So this meant that as soon as you pulled the stir stick out of the mixed paint you started to count 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000. If the paint started to drip off the stick at 5000 you were good to go. Strange thing is it still works today!!!!
I guess you could use a Din. cup and do the same thing.

John Poole

[Jim Huseby]

Another note to add: The Binks 7 was a fantastic gun in the acrylic enamel days. You could adjust it to a wider fan and heavier delivery than a DeVilbiss of the day (I can't remember the series, but it was the quality standard gun that preceded the MBC) and get amazingly smooth and shiny jobs fast, partly because it was easy to keep a wet edge. The 7 was very adjustable, but will have a larger orofice than ideal for DCC, though DCC is tolerant of some variation on application settings and techniques. You may want to turn the fluid delivery needle down and experiment on junk panels. Each coat needs ten or fifteen minutes or so to flash thoroughly so you can see what the final results will be. With DCC, the first coat coat and subsequent coat(s) must flow out, as the next coat will not help the first one level out. Do you have or can you get some left-over DCC to experiment with? In my experience getting it to flow out like glass, I use about double the recommended reducer on the label. The reducer recommendation on the label is for reasons other than performance and after using Concept since it first came out (what, nearly 30 years ago?), I have won many national firsts, sometimes without cutting and buffing. On exterior panels, it works great as a base coat under 2002 for an extremely stable system, especially in an air-dry booth. There have been no failures even in the midwest weather over decades. Another note: DCC covers better than any other paint I have used and is the most user-friendly. On most small parts one coat covers, and the next coat gives more than adequate thickness, while reducing the wet, dust-vulnerable time. Protect your lungs to the max.

[Mikeinnj]

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What is DCC ?????

[tbirdtbird]

"I use about double the recommended reducer on the label."

Yikes try that in the summer and your gonna be loaded with pops

we use half the suggested reducer for coats 1-2 (less runs and sags) (but really open the fluid control up, we deliver a lot of paint) and then the actual suggested amount for the 3rd coat for a nice smooth flowing result. It will level out nicely over an hour

[Jim Huseby]

Nope, not loaded with a single pop. That's why I stated that I've done it hundreds of times over the years with NO failures ever, even over the ensuing years and won numerous nationals. Wanna see? I also said to experiment, maybe I should have said "experiment at your own risk". Maybe airborne contaminants, moisture, dirt, too heavy application, unmatched activator/reducer/temperature or some other problem is causing your popping.

[tbirdtbird]

OK, I hear you, but what state are you in?

If you are in the south shooting on a 95-100° day and follow these instructions you ARE gonna get lots of pops. I only bring this up because ppl from all states are gonna be reading this and they need to know. Advice should be universal because not all the Barners have equal skills or knowledge

i myself dont get pops because i know how to avoid them. been shooting for >20 yrs

[darrylkmc]

Binks Model 7, one of my all time favorite Spray Guns.

When spraying with any gun, Always refer to the NOZZLE AND NEEDLE SELECTION CHART for your particular type of Material.

There a variety of Air Cap, Nozzle and Needles available for your needs. Even more available for the Model 18 or 2001.

http://www.binks.com/products/spray-...ontent17576-lt

Darryl in Fairbanks, Binks Collector

Reminds me of people recommending Loctite, many Variables, Not one size fits all.

[Jim Huseby]

Hi Tbird and guys- The temperatures in the summer here near Kansas City, Missouri hang in the 80-100*F range with relative humidity very high, 80-100%. The winters are seemingly near arctic,to me, as I am intolerant of temps below zero, especially for weeks at a time, though not as cold as our more northerly friends. Regardless of the weather, usually, when something is ready to paint, I have to paint. Your caution about my deviation from the label directions is probably a good thing to mention on this thread. There is risk for anyone whose life has been spent in technical research and field experience(probably like you) in deviating from "the one-brand system" and label directions prescribed by the paint chemists. For someone with less diligent experience or just less experience, like the guys we're trying to help out here, the risk is multiplied. So yes, a word of cation always.
My experience has been in flat rate shops and mostly self-employed where you only get paid once for a job and any failures cost you about three times what you would have made (not much, at that) if it had come out right the first time. Also, I need to keep my customers and reputation for decades. However, this one of many deviations (my nature is to be be both devious and a calculated risk taker) I mentioned came as a suggestion from a paint chemist for the brand I was using, and for a reason he explained that I will tell you if you pm me, but that I will not mention on a public forum. Another suggestion that I received and applied to great success is to double the flash time between coats which goes a long way toward eliminating trapped solvents and encourages faster final cure times.

[tbirdtbird]

Thanks for the extra info for the Barners. And part of your secret is that you are in the business; that always helps.
It also sounds like you may be working in a commercial climate controlled booth; a huge plus. We have a booth but it has auxillary heat only, no AC.

I totally agree on extending flash times where needed; these kinds of things are part of the 'art' of painting.
We routinely play with the solvent ratio, flash times, accelerator use, retarder use, selecting the speed of the activator, air pressure, fluid control, time of day, etc etc; all part of the 'art' of shooting; as you are well aware