36 Can't Stop The Oil Pan Drain Plug Drip

[billybronco1]

What gasket do you find is best on the oil pan drain plug? I have replaced the drain plug and can not stop the constant drip. I see Mac's has two types of washers, the crush type and the standard flat copper ones.

[51 MERC-CT]

Don't be afraid to use some non-hardening Permatex along with whatever washer you choose to use.

[Kurt in NJ]

On some modern cars washers with rubber insert are used, I have used those washers on other problem leak cars

[Jacques1960]

At your next oil change, take a moment to determine whether the threads of the drain are damaged or whether the surface to which the washer seals is not smooth; either is easily corrected and should assist with a permanent fix. In the interim, +1 on the Permatex option.

[Ron Pilger]

Suspected partial cross-threading at some point in the car's long run of life

[RalphG]

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Teflon tape is a popular hydraulic thread sealant here and I've used it on oil pan plugs before.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by RalphG

Teflon tape is a popular hydraulic thread sealant here and I've used it on oil pan plugs before.

I'm not too sure I would want to use Teflon tape on oil fittings, plugs, etc It's not inconceivable that pieces of that tape might get inside the oil pan, and get pulled into the oil flow system, causing some blockage in small passageways. I know it's a no no on gasoline/fuel supply lines.

Originally Posted by billybronco1

What gasket do you find is best on the oil pan drain plug? I have replaced the drain plug and can not stop the constant drip. I see Mac's has two types of washers, the crush type and the standard flat copper ones.

I would do as suggest by someone else here, check for cross threading of plug & oil pan threads, look for other possible damage of plug and pan in the sealing areas, and find or make a copper gasket that will stay on the plug when it's removed from pan

[swedishsteel]

My 36 marks it's territory under the drain plug as well. In my case it isn't the plug--the bung itself leaks from the seam where it is attached to the oil pan. It is on my project list to take the pan off some day and put some JB Weld on the inside, but it will be done tomorrow..........and we know tomorrow is never here!!

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by swedishsteel

My 36 marks it's territory under the drain plug as well. In my case it isn't the plug--the bung itself leaks from the seam where it is attached to the oil pan. It is on my project list to take the pan off some day and put some JB Weld on the inside, but it will be done tomorrow..........and we know tomorrow is never here!!

I think after taking off that pan, if it was me, I'd get it brazed.

I'm not a big fan of JB Weld never had very good luck with that stuff.

[billybronco1]

Thanks guys, I will take a closer look next time and will use some Permatex. So no comments on what washer to use? Anything one is as good as the other?

[paul2748]

Have you tried a plastic washer backed up with a steel one?

[billybronco1]

Have not tried a plastic washer.

[whizzernick]

have you thought the leak might come from the large cotter pin in rear of pan ?

[oldford2]

I use a large rubber O ring. Works great

[billybronco1]

I have read about the cotter pin, have not investigated yet, need to really study under there next time my body feels like crawling under.

[billybronco1]

Originally Posted by oldford2

I use a large rubber O ring. Works great

Interesting idea, I suppose you need to be real careful not to over tighten the plug. Do use any other washer with the o-ring or just the o-ring? I have plenty of those.

[Zeke3]

I am not a fan of using an O ring in a joint that is not designed for it. I would use a copper or aluminum washer and replace it every oil change.

[aussie merc]

pipe tape was suggested by someone i to don't like tape for same reasons however i do use the liquid Teflon paste Wipe some on the thread small bead on the washer tighten and wipe off excess works a treat

[fortyfords]

Have your machinist buddy turn out a thin aluminum washer for you or use my favorite thread sealer: Blue Monster, great stuff on anything but wash the area with alcohol first.

[Norris McCarty]

A little Loctite 518 on between the washer and the pan will stop the leak and it’ll still be easy to remove.

[marko39]

Or you can use a thin fiber washer one that is very tight to the plug. This will compress more when tightened and use a metal washer between.

[RalphG]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

I think after taking off that pan, if it was me, I'd get it brazed.

I'm not a big fan of JB Weld never had very good luck with that stuff.

I wouldn't even remove the pan. Just drain and clean it up good before applying the JB Weld. Although I've never had to use it on an oil pan I have patched gas tanks, radiators and a whole lot of other things with great success. I've been a big fan of JB Weld for years.

[swedishsteel]

Originally Posted by RalphG

I wouldn't even remove the pan. Just drain and clean it up good before applying the JB Weld. Although I've never had to use it on an oil pan I have patched gas tanks, radiators and a whole lot of other things with great success. I've been a big fan of JB Weld for years.

The problem with using anything on the outside is the oil that is still in the leak--you can't get the outside area oil free so nothing will stick. It would take years of sitting with an empty oil pan with the plug out for all the oil to seep down. I suppose one could let it sit over winter and then use heat to burn any residue away. But.........like I said, with what little it drips, it is way down on my project list.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by billybronco1

Thanks guys, I will take a closer look next time and will use some Permatex. So no comments on what washer to use? Anything one is as good as the other?

Go back and read my last sentence at the end of post number 7.

[GB SISSON]

Once on a family trip we stopped at a jiffy lube for an oil change. 200 miles later we stopped for lunch and drip drip drip. Bad. It was easy to see they put NO gasket at all on the plug. I asked my wife for some dental floss, put a blob of non hardening permatex between my thumb and finger and stranded the floss through it. Undid the plug half way at the rest area and wound about ten turns of permatex floss and tightened it back up. Wiped the pan clean. Arrived on the East coast 3000 miles later and the pan was just clean black paint. It could not have made a better seal.

[Tinker]

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Holy poop. Use a crush ring as designed or some felt/plastic ring. Leave the jd weld and permex in the top shelf of the toolbox. As Bruce used to say flatheads leaked, to oil the chassis.

[fordv8j]

leather makes a good washer

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by fordv8j

leather makes a good washer

Couldn't agree more. What an amazing material. Oil seals, accelerator pumps. I used it for a rod bearing 20 years ago for a one lung engine on a Bean spray pump.

[billybronco1]

Changed the oil the other day, used a fiber gasket and a little non hardening permatex, no more oil leak from the drain plug, thanks for the suggestions.

[Talkwrench]

Thats all I do ^ just make my own gasket cut from thick gasket material, non hardening= no probs.. Just leaks from everywhere else...

[19Fordy]

Try a piece of leather with non-hardening Permatex applied on both sides.

[russcc]

Lot of good ideas here. it's very common issue, no matter what the actual cause is. If is actually leaking from drain plug, do as was suggested and use Permatex #2 non hardening sealer. see page 175 of Vern Tardel's book, "How to Build Ford Flathead Engines" When it comes from Vern, that's the proven answer. I used #2 when I built the engine and on the first oil change I waited a long tine for the dripping to stop, wiped the plug and pan thread with prep sol, and coated the plug and pan threads with #2 again. No leak.

[paul2748]

Another suggestion is a nylon flat washer

[Tinker]

You can buy rolled gasket material from autozone or napa fairly cheap. Packs including cork.