1933 V8 Oil Pan Removal Problem

[Doug 845]

Well I tried to remove the oil pan with the engine still in the car. I figured I had the hardest part done but was wrong. I needed to replace the exhaust system and figured since it was already out I would just drop the pan and clean it out. The exhaust bolts came out easily thanks to Freeze Off by CRC and I loosened the wish bone and dropped that lower as well. The pan can't get past the tie rod. I was going to order a new tie rod anyway since it is bent and probably rusted to the point it's not worth saving. I tried to remove one tie rod end but it seems to be pressed in or something. Is there a tool that I should use to remove it? I'm at the point of just cutting in half for now until I get a new one.

[V8COOPMAN]

Those tie rod ends are tapered, and designed to "stick" like that via the taper. It usually takes some "experienced" persuasion via a couple of different old-time methods, or a tool designed for the purpose. A wedged pickle fork is one tool used for this by many. Pickle forks can be purchased at many auto parts stores, usually found on one of those tool display racks. Another tool that WILL do the job is shown below. Some auto parts stores may lend or rent such a tool for home mechanics in need.

Are you sure that you can't take-apart the socket end that fits over the ball stud found on stock '33 Ford tie rods? DD

[Andy]

I can't remember for sure but I think I got the pan off my 34 by just putting it on jack stands. There is a position of the crank that lets it come out.
Also, everything Coop said is right.

[cas3]

if its still the original tie rod, you can just unscrew one end. look at the end, you'll see a big screw slot, you need a 1/2" drive socket for that, available at any auto store, then you have to hope the car has been greased because they can be a son-ofa-gun to get loose

[mercman from oz]

Many years ago, I removed the Pan from my 34 Ford V8 while it was still in the car. You will need to undo the Radius Rod at the rear and pack a spacer in there to keep it away from the chassis. I had water in my oil, and by process of elimination, thought that I would start at the point with the least expense. When I got the Pan off, I noticed that the Welsh "Freeze" Plugs were leaking, and replaced them with Brass Plugs, and my problem was solved. While I had the Pan off, I poured plenty of water down the block and scratched around the holes with a screwdriver and a bent wire. I was able to get lots of gunk out before installing the new Welsh Plugs. It was a bit tricky replacing the Pan, especially at the rear over the clutch housing, but in the end, I won. Problem solved, no more water in my Oil. My car is Right Hand Drive, so I don't know if there is any difference removing the Pan from a LHD car? It worked for me.

[jimTN]

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I just went thru the exact same thing and pulled the engine. Glad I did cause all four pan rail plugs were loose and leaking, goop was everywhere including the oil pump. I replaced the plugs with pennies and Indian Head shellac. The engine I was working on was a replacement (37) with the late type pan so, not sure if it would have come out the bottom anyway. Of course there were a bunch of other "defects" found along the way such as the throw out bearing carrier broken and so on.

Here is a question, can you put the starter side engine pan on with the starter in or what is the procedure to install this little fun piece?

[Doug 845]

I didn't realize that I could just take off the end of the tie rod. I will try that this weekend and hope that it works. I was going to replace the tie rod & rebuild the drag link anyway. Thanks to all that replied.

[Doug 845]

I managed to get the pan off by jacking the car up by the front axle which lowered the tie rod just enough. I bought the screwdriver type tool but realized that it wouldn't fit between the tie rod end and the hub. Please check out the pics. I believe that I have a '33 block. Check out the front pic without the vent tube. When I took off the oil pump pickup tube, the screen was all tore up and a gear was just sitting in it not attached to anything. It appears that the gear just slips back into place. I just attached the pics under a new thread for 34 Oil Pan removal.

[Paul Bennett]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Those tie rod ends are tapered, and designed to "stick" like that via the taper. It usually takes some "experienced" persuasion via a couple of different old-time methods, or a tool designed for the purpose. ... Another tool that WILL do the job is shown below. Some auto parts stores may lend or rent such a tool for home mechanic in need.

What is the name of this bad tool, please? I need one.

N'eer mind... tie rod end removal tool. Current ones look to be make of pot metal, not tool steel like in photo below