1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[Zeke3]

Chris, great work on the truck, we are all looking forward to hearing it run.

On the alternator mounting, I suggest using two bolts on the bottom rather than the single long bolt. The alternator is designed to be mounted on a spool between the two ears using a single long bolt. The bolt would solidly clamp the front leg of the alternator to the spool and the rear leg would not be solidly clamped because of the floating sleeve in the rear leg. Using the single long bolt without anything in the middle may result in breaking the alternator casting if the bolt is overtightened.

Good luck with your project.

[DavidG]

Chris,

The Nu-Rex tool for setting up the initial timing on your distributor will work fine, in fact it is a necessity. Just DO NOT follow the instructions on the handle as they are for a Model A with manual spark advance. Your distributor has automatic spark advance. Follow the instructions in the book as I advised earlier.

[joe 1950]

congrats on a great find there still out there hiding almost looks like that 65427 miles could be original it’s looks to be all there and not all beat up i to was a Jan born 1-31-51 that looks like a fun project have fun with it

[sugarmaker]

Guys and maybe Gals too,
The tractor Pull was some what of a bust. Worked the clay track with a big aggressive set of dics on Friday. it rained Friday night, had to scrape all the goo off the track Sat morning and it was rock hard base when we pulled. I helped run the sled, and then pulled the two Allis WD series tractors in 3500 and 4000 lb class. Bringing home two 3rd place ribbons.
Farmall's seem to do really good on those hard track conditions. Only about 20 tractors showed up. Was so busy I didnt have time to get pictures, sorry!

So back to the 32: I have a thought of mounting a new switch for ignition as I mentioned above. All new wiring to make sure I have a safe electrical system in place. Yes its not going to be like original, but a lot of the other things I have done dont match up to show standards either. I really want this to work and be dependable to start and function.

Hope things are good out there in Ford Land. We are having beautiful fall weather here in Northwestern Pennsylvania. Wonderful time of the year with temps in the 60's and 70's.

Off to see the wizard!
Regards,
Chris

[Tinker]

Hey Chris, I wasn't making fun of your posting. If it came off that way I apologise. I was just making an excuse for asking a question and not reading all the posts. Like I mentioned I don't get on here often and only follow when I can. Please post as much as you like. I know a lot of us enjoy all the pictures and what you are doing.


When you rewire are you using new cloth wires? Maybe it's just me but I'm not a fan of plastic coated modern wires on a old car when very nice modern cloth wire in bulk is available. Here again that's just me.


Cool stuff.

[tubman]

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I really think it is a good practice to read the entire thread before posting a response. Not doing so can result in posting incorrect or redundant information. I used to do it myself, but have since learned better. It has now become one of my pet peeves.

Please take the extra effort.

[Tinker]

Dennis you are not a forum moderator. I have followed the posts here, and also asked a question pertaining to his idea of the what he is doing for the 12v ignition. Which I hadn't seen posted yet. Which he wasn't sure yet. Maybe I missed it. But I'm sure you could have pm'ed me on how you feel about my post..... me being polite is not a bad thing.


Sorry Chris for mucking up your post.

[tubman]

I was just posting a general observation.

If the shoe fits, wear it.

[sugarmaker]

Guys,
Its all good! Look you two guys have 14,000 posts combined. I have to assume most of them are good too! So I am the novice here to your forum and I can take constructive criticism about my posts, my project, or my positions.

I like the idea of using period correct cloth type wiring. I really need to look in to that also. Thanks you for the suggestion. This wiring has definitely seen better days. And yes while I have the truck, it will probably be 12 volt.

Ok status update on the 32:
I did a bunch of continuity checks on wires. I now better understand the ON-OFF switch near the key to be the ignition circuit. I bumble around and find this stuff some how. Traced power to the coil. New 12 volt coil, checked wire to the distributor. Connected lead up to starter terminal switch. Toggled on the battery disconnect, flipped on the on 89 year old ON switch and opened the closed points. Bingo!! We have sparky at the points! Strong good spark!

Checked the bottom shut off on the fuel tank and the fitting was a little loose and seeping. Tightened that line fitting up ( original shut off cleaned up and used).
Opened the petcock on the fuel pump have fuel at the fuel pump, systems may be primed from rolling it over a few times??

Tomorrow is a holiday so probably no parts stores open but I want to get a 2 inch I.D 45 deg elbow for the exhaust then a 30 inch extension and a turn down or another 45 degree pipe to get back behind the cab. Notice that I am making an assumption that this engine is going to run! I want the exhaust back a little more if possible.

So I may install the radiator and hoses tomorrow. Fill and wait for leaks to appear!

The tentative start up party may be around noon Tuesday, after a bunch of us go out for a nice breakfast. If we try to start this engine I will try to have someone take some video of the fun!

Some pictures from today:
We start with my view to the west. We can see Ohio from here.


Allis-Chalmers WD45 back from the pulls.


Our cat Lucy, she could care less about a 32 Ford:


Called upon by fried John K (Mr Ford) to help on a new parking brake for his "T". All new to me I asked a lot of really basic questions, and assisted in helping tune the good used part into submission.


John gave me this very nice Ford script wrench that he got at Hershey!


Ignition wire from coil to distributor, I used the existing one with a new end.


Ok this is serious, plug bands in place, rotor, cap and old coil lead:


Tape removed from some of the cluster of wires. They will not be operational for this start up. Just too sketchy on those which will be a winter project:


It doesnt come without some normal boo-boos too:


I also tweaked the front sheet metal apron ( below the radiator) back closer to its correct position. It had been bent out about 4-5 inches and damaged in the lower right corner. Better than it was, ok for now. Matches most of the other dings and dents in "Ole Blue".

Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Chris,

The Nu-Rex tool for setting up the initial timing on your distributor will work fine, in fact it is a necessity. Just DO NOT follow the instructions on the handle as they are for a Model A with manual spark advance. Your distributor has automatic spark advance. Follow the instructions in the book as I advised earlier.

Oops!
David Thanks for noting this. I do need to go look at that now. You told me and I didn't not listen well enough. Mr Renner tried to tell me too. Bull headed and stubborn are some of my best traits. I will look at resetting the timing per your instructions in the book.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

Chris, great work on the truck, we are all looking forward to hearing it run.

On the alternator mounting, I suggest using two bolts on the bottom rather than the single long bolt. The alternator is designed to be mounted on a spool between the two ears using a single long bolt. The bolt would solidly clamp the front leg of the alternator to the spool and the rear leg would not be solidly clamped because of the floating sleeve in the rear leg. Using the single long bolt without anything in the middle may result in breaking the alternator casting if the bolt is overtightened.

Good luck with your project.

Zeke,
I almost missed your post. I try to read them all. This is a very good suggestion for the spacer. I will try to find one and get it in place in the alternator assembly to avoid breaking off one of the alternator legs by over tightening.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Chris,

The drill for the initial set up of your distributor is on pages 6-11 and 12 in your book. It is pretty straightforward.

David,
Found the information in the book and will look at this in the morning. And re-time the engine correctly.
Thanks!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Morning!
On the 32: Off to review timing, exhaust, gas, and then install radiator and water. Have a feeling that this small engine project on the 32 dump may come together soon.
Happy Columbus Day!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,

I assume that in going to 12 volts that your distributor condenser is one for that voltage and that you are maintaining the original positive ground for the electrical system. Also that if your alternator's output is adjustable it should not exceed 20 amps or you'll likely wreck your ammeter if it is the original.

I did not encounter any 85" speedometer cables at Hershey, sorry.

[jimTN]

Repop dash wiring and headlight wiring is available from most of the vendors of v8 parts and is a lot more easy to install and maintain that running a lot of wires. Everything fits that way. The original switches work just fine and with 12v your wiring size will be overkill anyway.

[sugarmaker]

David,
The condensor is what was on the truck. So not sure if it's 12 volt? Probably won't use amp meter. May put volt meter under dash at some point. I have it set up for negative ground.
I will have more questions tomorrow. Plus some good and not so good news too!
Jim thanks for the info on the wiring too!
Radiator, and grill and hood in place. Exhaust extended to back of cab.
Still drinking from a fire hose on this 32 stuff!
Regards,
Chris

[tubman]

Distributor condensers are not voltage sensitive. The just need to be .20 to .40 microfarads and capable of handling 400 volt spikes. Good quality condensers are remarkably tolerant when it comes to operating voltage and capacitance.

[sugarmaker]

Ford Folks,
Just a coincidence that doesnt mean a thing but I think I started the 32 at the same time the views on this thread got to 40,000.

Anyway yes it does run! I did get a video which I don't know how to load to you tube yet. I have had a heck of a day working on it (yesterday).

Lets start:
Installed the radiator with new bottom hardware from Snyder's:




Support rods cleaned up and in place. This fit better than expected. I did have to gently tweak the 4 fan blades to provide just a little more clearance. Nice to get to try this new radiator! Thanks to the folks that helped make that happen! Hoses in place. Yes not period correct clamps,


I did have to repap these two upper holes to 1/4-20 thread to match the flat head screws that came out.


New lower water pipe from Snyder's. Very nice piece. Used the old original cast B-B shut off:


Grill shell when on with no major issues and fit up to the rad was pretty much right on the money.


Another detail: Had a slight seepage at the fuel shut off. Tightened this original fitting line. wiped dry and the next morning it was fine. I threatened it with changing to a new one and it got the message


About this time I filled the rad with water. I had decided I wanted to add a 2 inch pipe extension to the exhaust down pipe to get it back behind the cab.
Visited my NAPA and O Riley's to get the pieces. just as I was starting to look at the exhaust. about a half of cup of water came out of the down pipe. Then a drop about every second. NOT a good thing! Crack in the block internal allowing water to get out!

Went through all the bad things I could think of. Decided to try some block sealer. Not much to loose.
Back to NAPA for some majic stuff.
Brought it home and dumped half or it in the rad. Looked looked like oatmeal. About a hour later I couldnt stand the wait and knew I had to try to start the 32 to get the block sealant to move through the system and get warm.

All systems now in go position!
About the third rev it popped. Several more cranks and it came to life, the best it could!
It sure sounded like something needed some tuning. Or maybe its normal?? Anyway I ran it for several minutes to get the block warm. I was in the cab the whole time with the clutch mash down to the floor board.

Finally had to get out. Started to let the clutch out and it made a very loud unexpected noise. Humm? What did I do wrong in putting that together?? Finally the truck died I shut it off and got out.



Here is what I found:


Yep I had the PTO engaged and the dump was activated. Looks like that may work! Imagine that!

Hood install by your self is not the easiet thing to do.






By this time several hours had passed since the block sealer was circulated. Humm doesn't seam to be any exhaust water leak. checked the oil. yep water in the oil. Drained the oil and inserted some non detergent that I was not going to use anyway and fired it back up and drove forward and backward about 10 feet.

Clutch seams to be ok with out the PTO engaged!
(will check for water in the oil this morning, when the team shows up for the official start.)

Really glad I put in the Battery disconect switch. Worked great!

So the bad news: The rebuild bendix sticks open and will not engage. And worse that that I have a REALLY bad oil leak at the back of the engine. Not drive-able as it is. Not sure what I did wrong on sealing the back end of the engine but there is a problem that will not go away on its own, I am pretty sure.

Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Ford folks,
Good friends met with me for breakfast and then we came to the shop. They helped rebuild the starter . Removed the new bendix and installed the one from the other old starter.
Jim from Bugs& Tugs installed it and we cheered him on.
With that functioning we could do a start up for show and tell!
Tightened the water pump packing several times.
Feeling foxy I took it out of the shop and down the road!
Awesome experience!! Jim got some footage it will be up on you tube.
Truck was still leaking oil a lot. Running pretty rough too.
After several rides around the shop. Then ran out of gas, and had to be towed home. Found the fuel line had junk in it. Opened that up from tank to fuel pump.
Several more rides and the oil leak subsided. Pulled plugs and re gaped.
Re-torqued the head and exhaust manifold attachments
More rides, up to 4 the gear. Brakes are about what I expected.
Took Cooper and Rhett for rides.
Was a good day. Pictures coming!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Glad to hear that today went far better than yesterday.