Has anyone every used or heard anything about this thermostat goose neck

[925DiabloA]

Hi All,

Here is some more info on the Vintage Precision thermostat housing. The kit includes a 160 degree thermostat, the base with (2) ports (1/2" NPT, 1/4" NPT) and plugs for temp gauge senders / heater option, 45 bent neck for standard 2" hose, O-ring and bolts, instructions, painted ready to install. - $92.50 ea. - In Stock - Price does not include shipping.

http://vintageprecision.com/products...ing/index.html

[AL in NY]

spdway1, Mark's original question was: "Came across this product and was wondering if anyone used one and heard anything about them "

This thread wasn't asking your opinion on the +'s and -'s of running a thermostat in a Model A.

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by spdway1

. . .Who said AND how was it proven that ideal operating temp for a basic Model A engine is (160-180* F)??? Interested to see the FACTS. . . .

Sometimes I talk too much, so I'll just post this hijacked graph and let everyone draw their own conclusions.

If you google 'engine temperature wear' you will find countless links.
Some are high-end engineering testing from sources like S.A.E.

[spdway1]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

spdway1, Mark's original question was: "Came across this product and was wondering if anyone used one and heard anything about them "

This thread wasn't asking your opinion on the +'s and -'s of running a thermostat in a Model A.

You have one...Tell us about it...

Want me to start another Thread????

[AL in NY]

I thought you had to read the posts before replying, take a look at post #9 in this thread.

[steve s]

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Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

. . . I believe Steve S. (?), has been using one since it first became available, along with serpentine fan system, heater and the forklift carb.
Paul in CT

ooh! a thermostat thread, and I've been missing it (on a fishing trip).

The housing you asked about is very well made and works great. I use both the water heater and temperature gauge options.

My only reservation (other than cost) is that it's kind of ugly; it hangs over off the back of the machined surface on the head where the water outlet mounts. I'd show my picture but can't get my photobucket account to work on friend's computer. So, the purists are being spared a lot of tsk-tsk'ing.

If it makes you feel good to keep your engine as original as possible, don't use a thermostat; if it makes you feel good to make your engine feel good, use one. There are good reasons that all cars incorporated them as soon as reliable technology became available (early-mid '30's). In addition to unnecessary wear (per Mike's graph), simply waiting for the motor to warm up on a cold day is not an option; it won't happen. If you do get it warm, it will cool back down when you start going down the road--pretty obvious if you have a hot water heater. Also, the semi-volatile corrosive combustion products will not be driven out of the oil pan unless the oil gets good and hot.

Steve

[spdway1]

Ok, Al you have convinced me to purchase a kit in your post #9 because I am a bit more north than you!
I hope it does not affect parade driving.

<------Helper just gave me a 100$

Mike, thanks for your research, makes sense on the wear.

[Special Coupe Frank]

Mike,

Thanks for the graph!

I still suggest ANYONE with more than a passing interest in cars, read Bob Sikorsky's book (Drive It Forever!) ... he is an automotive engineer (SAE) and wrote a very down-to-earth book on how to get the most out of your car ...

Goes into detail about the importance of getting the engine and oil up to operating temperature as quickly as possible and keeping it there, the severe side-effects of driveway idling and short-trip driving, prologned oil-change intervals, and much, much more.

I bought my copy while in college (mid-1980's), has a picture of a red '58 Mercury Turnpike Cruiser on the cover.

It is one of the most useful car books I've ever read.

SC Frank

[steve s]

Here's what it looks like installed.



Steve

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by steve s

Here's what it looks like installed.



Steve

That doesn't look so bad. Why all the fuss?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by P.S.

That doesn't look so bad. Why all the fuss?

My point exactly!

[John LaVoy]

We reviewed that awhile back. Liked it so well we have it on the roadser pickup project.

[msmaron]

thank you all for your opinions...As my post started to ask if anyone is familiar, i think we finnaly got the simple answer of a "YES"...Mike K, nice graph Steve S. thanks for the Pic...others....your car your choice as it has been said before, but good comments and thank you all............mark

[msmaron]

All done...here it is!

[Special Coupe Frank]

Looks good, Mark...

Let us know what you think after some miles !

SC Frank

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by msmaron

All done...here it is!

Super!

Now you can get back to works on Val's Roadster!

[P.S.]

No temp gauge? The motometer won't tell you if your thermostat gets stuck closed and the motor is overheating.

[CarlG]

I have a temp gage connected to the rh port on this thermostat housing. It was real interesting to watch the gage with the engine idling at 1,000rpm. It climed to the 160 mark in only a couple of minutes. Then I could watch the gage rise to 162, then slowly drop to 156, then climb back up again. Did this over and over again. You could almost see the thermostat close and open.

Oh, I was just bringing the engine up to temp (for 30 minutes) after reinstalling the head and torqueing it.

[OL JENNY]

What would be the suggested temp gauge to use with this unit.

[Art Bjornestad]

I saw on one picture where a pipe ran from the rear of the block to the T housing. Could one drill a hole on the left hand side of the block near the rear and have have the same results? Anyone here that has tried it?