Has anyone every used or heard anything about this thermostat goose neck

[Dick M]

About a year ago I was coming home in the A when the fan belt blew. It was a 100 degree day. All of a sudden I heard a "tink,tinktink" so I pulled over. I put my replacement fan belt on an drove home. I got to thinking, what if I did not hear the "tink,tink,tink"?? Would I have cooked my engine?? Sure could have. I have a driver and it would have killed me to cook my engine. Therefore, I installed the above modification and temp guage without hesitation. Might not be stock but it makes for a better car such as my laycock overdrive, and 6volt alternator. I am not done yet===seat belts to come. The rest of the car is stock and will stay that way.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Dick M

About a year ago I was coming home in the A when the fan belt blew. It was a 100 degree day. All of a sudden I heard a "tink,tinktink" so I pulled over. I put my replacement fan belt on an drove home. I got to thinking, what if I did not hear the "tink,tink,tink"?? Would I have cooked my engine?? Sure could have. I have a driver and it would have killed me to cook my engine. Therefore, I installed the above modification and temp guage without hesitation. Might not be stock but it makes for a better car such as my laycock overdrive, and 6volt alternator. I am not done yet===seat belts to come. The rest of the car is stock and will stay that way.

what difference does this thermostat have to do with you hearing your fan belt crack and give way. Your car would have run on theromo-syphoning and NOT Cooked your engine at all, so i am lost how this helped you hear TINK TINK TINK?????

[luckyal]

Where are they available from and what do you ask for ?
Al

[1931 flamingo]

luckyal: See post #1, there's a link posted.

I believe Steve S. (?), has been using one since it first became available, along with serpentine fan system, heater and the forklift carb.
Paul in CT

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by luckyal

Where are they available from and what do you ask for ?
Al

Just call the company in my original post and they will take care of it 92.50 + Shipping

[Chris in WNC]

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in theory, I like the fast warm-up and higher operating temp that a thermostat should provide in a Model A.

in actual practice, every time I try running one I get that burp when the thermostat opens, resulting in (dirty) water all over the hood and radiator shell and a loss of coolant.

therefore I'm back to running the Coupe without a thermostat. perhaps the two 160 degree and the two 180 degree stats I have on hand should find new homes......

on a related note, I miss having a temp guage as we had on our Town Sedan, so might have to get one soon.

[AL in NY]

Chris, a thermostat by-pass will eliminate the "burp" when it opens.

[59mgaguy]

Eagle don't feel alone. I can't understand putting in a thermostat either. I can with CarlG because all those cars up there all have an electric plug sticking out their grill. But down here in the lower 48!

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by Chris in WNC

. . .in actual practice, every time I try running one I get that burp when the thermostat opens, resulting in (dirty) water all over the hood and radiator shell and a loss of coolant. . . .

Two things will cause that burp in an "A" with a t'stat:
1) Allowing a thermostat to migrate up the hose, or having it in a position at or above the natural water level, or too far from the engine. The t'stat will not open until all the water in the hose reaches the design temp. By this time there will be hot spots, most notably above and behind cyl#4 that will reach 212 (boiling) before the distant t'stat sees 160. The steam pockets in the head continue to heat above 212 because, unlike water, steam has very little remaining heat capacity. When the 'stat finally opens, the water inrush to the block hits the superheated spots and instantly boils, blowing water like an old coffee percolator stem. A bypass, shown by AL in NY prevents stagnant hot spots before a stat opens.

2) The t'stat design itself. There are two classes of stats. All stats work by the melting expansion and solidification contraction of wax, pushing/pulling a SS pin in a small brass cylinder. Ever notice that on a candle, filled with level liquid wax, that the wax shrinks into a depression when you blow it out and it cools? Different waxes have different melting points and solidification ranges. The cheap stats (sold by the A vendors tack welded to a tube) contain a single composition wax pellet. That stat opens and closes rather abruptly over a very narrow temperature range. This results in surges rather than throttling with temperature. (burp!) Quality stats have both compounded waxes with a wider fusion range and a more progressive valve profile. No surges.

To exacerbate the problem, the stats sold by the vendors with the short section of tube are designed wrong. They tack weld the tube on the bottom side of the stat. This insures you must have the stat at least an inch above the iron outlet neck. The tacked on tube should be on the outlet side of the stat so you can insert the tube into the hose first, and have the sensor end flat down against the outlet neck. If they did that AND used a quality wide-range throttling stat they would have a performance winner, but a sales loser. You can't justify why 'yours' cost $4.00 more than 'theirs' without extensive explanation.

On a positive note, the new outlet housing and stat that Mark asked about in this thread address both problems. It is way down by the head where it belongs, AND they provide a quality wide-range throttling 'stat. If you buy it and swap in a cheapo stat, all bets are off.

OK, just to keep things even on the plus or minus list, I'll add this little (-): You do realize (Mark, are you listening?) that you will have to completely remove all tension from the two forward head bolts. Head gaskets can and occasionally do develop leaks when the tension is completely removed from just a single head bolt. Just a heads up here. (pun intended)

[Benson]

Mike,


I wondered also about the cheap stats... Mine seems to be either open or closed, no in between. Temperature gauge shows 145 in cool weather and around 180 or 190 with one of the 160 degree "tube thermostats". The higher temperatures tell me that maybe these stats donot allow enough water flow to cool the engine in the summer.

I should say that this engine is a fresh rebuild with a new 4 tube, 10 fin radiator.

I see the VPI housing includes a Stant 160 degree stat P/N #45356 which is a "SuperStat". Stant's webpage addresses points that you bring up:


SuperStat™ Thermostat


Unlike conventional thermostats that continually open and close to achieve the proper operating temperature and flood the engine with coolant, the Stant SuperStat® thermostat has a unique v-notch, non-linear design that reduces cycling by precisely metering the amount of coolant needed to maintain proper operating temperature.
The v-notch provides a small initial flow. As the engine heats up, the v-notch gradually opens wider, metering coolant into the system until the desired engine temperature is reached.








The benefits of proper engine temperature are:

• efficient engine operation
• prolonged engine life
• reduced oil consumption
• improved fuel economy
• and reduced emissions

Stant's SuperStat® uses a high flow venturi for maximum cooling capacity during high temperature, high load operation and employs a unique Weir Valve® for precise flow metering during cold weather, light load operation to ensure stable temperature control under all conditions.
The high strength stainless steel flange is burnished to a bright finish for additional stress relief and added corrosion resistance.
The Stant SuperStat® thermostat is also thicker than most competitor thermostats and our standard reverse poppet thermostat for added strength and longer life.
The power element of SuperStat® is comparable to those used in heavy-duty trucks. Its actuator piston is larger in diameter than the standard thermostat and competitive product. This larger piston delivers 1 1/2 times the power of our standard thermostat and almost 2 1/2 times as much power as the competition for enhanced durability and longer life.
The opening spring of the Stant SuperStat® thermostat is designed with a load that is 50% stronger than our standard reverse poppet thermostat. This heavy-duty spring helps return the thermostat to the closed position and prevent cold running, even under the most adverse conditions.

Features and Benefits








Upgrades over OE equivalent thermostats offer more efficient temperature control resulting in faster warm-ups, better fuel economy, and longer engine life.

• Limited lifetime warranty.
• OE supplier experience results in a match in fit and function when a replacement part is needed.
• Technologically advanced designs use bleed notches, check valves, and other methods to assist in releasing air from the cooling system.
• Uniue Weir valve technology allows for a smooth and gradual flow of coolant so the engine reaches its optimal temperature more quickly, resulting in improved performance, including better fuel efficiency.
• Heavier-grade stainless steel housing for high-flow engines for longer life and durability.
• Long-lasting, stronger spring closes valve faster for better temperature control.
• Larger heat motor reacts to temperature changes faster for more efficient temperature control.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Chris, a thermostat by-pass will eliminate the "burp" when it opens.

If the caps are completely sealed, as they are supposed to be, they won't BURP crap on the hood. Snyder's supplies a slightly fatter "O" ring for flip caps, or go to a hardware or auto parts that has assorted "O" rings Or buy a cheap assortment at Harbor Freight. Bill W.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by MikeK

...OK, just to keep things even on the plus or minus list, I'll add this little (-): You do realize ... that you will have to completely remove all tension from the two forward head bolts. Head gaskets can and occasionally do develop leaks when the tension is completely removed from just a single head bolt. Just a heads up here. (pun intended)

That's why I waited till I had to have the head off for another reason to install it. Once installed, it shouldn't have to come off. The 4 bolts give you instant access to the t-stat to change it or even take it out in the summer if necessary.

[JBill]

I haven't seen a price anywhere, and it's not given on the website. Anybody willing to say how much? I'd guess it's not cheap.

[1931 flamingo]

$92.50 PLUS shipping............
Paul in CT

[Special Coupe Frank]

Originally Posted by spdway1

Who Owns a Model A for these reasons?
> Better engine efficiency
> Better cooling efficiency
> Better fuel economy
> Better air quality ??
> Better guage readings

No body has told me WHY I NEED one?

How about this one:

Your engine will be healthier and last longer between rebuilds.


Packard and Cadillac started using water-throttling thermostats in 1915-16. Lincoln had thrermostatic radiator shutters from day one.

I'm not saying that everyone needs this four-bolt rig, but at the very least a top-hose thermostat is an improvement.

W/O a stat, my '28 runs around 140* F. Way too cool. With a stat, 160-180.


Your car, your choice.

Happy motoring!

[msmaron]

OK, just to keep things even on the plus or minus list, I'll add this little (-): You do realize (Mark, are you listening?) that you will have to completely remove all tension from the two forward head bolts. Head gaskets can and occasionally do develop leaks when the tension is completely removed from just a single head bolt. Just a heads up here. (pun intended)

Yes of course....but the same caution is taken if and when you tighten for the first time and other time if the tabs on the goose neck break...very aware of all of it......

[59mgaguy]

$92.50 for the thermostat. I really can't believe what I read here. Want to buy a bridge? Let the car idle till it warms up. It's cheaper and you can listen to the beautiful sound your engine makes. The only benefit is one where the vendor makes a profit. What did PT Barnum say?

[P.S.]

Mark is no dummy. If he says he needs a stat, then he needs a stat.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by 59mgaguy

$92.50 for the thermostat. I really can't believe what I read here. Want to buy a bridge? Let the car idle till it warms up. It's cheaper and you can listen to the beautiful sound your engine makes. The only benefit is one where the vendor makes a profit. What did PT Barnum say?

PLEASE see the original post #1. it is a lot more than JUST a thermostat....

[Special Coupe Frank]

Originally Posted by 59mgaguy

$92.50 for the thermostat. I really can't believe what I read here. Want to buy a bridge? Let the car idle till it warms up. It's cheaper and you can listen to the beautiful sound your engine makes. The only benefit is one where the vendor makes a profit. What did PT Barnum say?

I don't think all of us that believe in the value of a thermostat necessarily believe in paying $92.50 for this deluxe outfit...


But, thermostats have proved their worth since about 1916.

If you don't think they are worthwhile, suggest you read Robert Sikorsky's excellent book: "Drive it Forever".

In the age of $4/gallon gasoline, I can't imagine people wanting to let their A "idle until is warms-up"... w/o a stat, my A would run out of gas before it ever got to ideal operating temp ( 160-180* F).

A $9 upper-hose stat has worked fine for me.

Even Henry Ford began putting thermostats in Fords, around 1935-'36.


Again, your car, your choice.