The Ford Barn

Jawman · 07-19-2010, 01:01 AM

Hi, I just joined and I am hoping you guys can help me get somewhere on my project. I recently picked up a 1932 Ford BB truck. From the research I have gotten it is all stock with a 32 b 4 cylinder motor and 4 speed trans. my plan is to first get it to run and drive then go from there. I think it has a model A distributor,intake, Tilitson model X carb, and intake and exhaust manifold on it. I put the upgraded points plate in the dissy, rebuilt the carb with a Sacramento Vintage Ford carb kit, put a 12volt. coil on it and I have gotten it to run for a second or so. what I need know is to tune it in. If someone could tell me how to set the timing on the dissy., tune in the carb, and maybe tell me something else that would help me get it running that would be great.

pat in Santa Cruz · 07-19-2010, 05:28 AM

To time it, you need to determine if the distributor is a Model B or Model A. An A distributor has the advance arm coming out of the side of the body in a notch where the body meets the cast base. A B distributor does not have that as it has an internal centrifugal advance. Next, look at the timing pin on the timing gear cover to determine if its a Model B cover or an A cover.

see this link to learn about timing covers:
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingcovers.htm

see this link to time an A:
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm

see this link on B distributor timing:
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingiseverything.htm

The B times similar to the A, with the exception that you are setting the cam at 19 degrees BTC instead of 0 TDC. Obviously an A dist/cover or a B dist/cover is easiest to time. If you have an A dist and a B cover, you'll need some tricks to get it right, which I am sure someone here will provide.

why a 12 volt coil??? it was a 6 volt pos ground system. __________________
www.fordgarage.com

CWPASADENA · 07-19-2010, 09:47 AM

Sounds interesting.

I always liked the Trucks.

How about letting us know where you live, May be someone near by can help.

Also, post some pictures when you ahve time.

Good Luck,

chris

Jawman · 07-19-2010, 12:05 PM

I would say I have an A dissy. and a B cover, so maybe that is why it only fires when I advance the timing all the way. I know that it was 6 volt positive ground, but nobody said that I couldn't make it a negative ground 12 volt system. I will defiantly post some pictures soon. I live in Portland, Oregon.

hardtimes · 07-19-2010, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jawman

I would say I have an A dissy. and a B cover, so maybe that is why it only fires when I advance the timing all the way. I know that it was 6 volt positive ground, but nobody said that I couldn't make it a negative ground 12 volt system. I will defiantly post some pictures soon. I live in Portland, Oregon.

Jawman,
with mix of 'dissy/cover'....I would put #1 piston on tdc, put a white paint mark on crank pulley and (next to it) on cam cover. After checking/setting cam in A dissy for #1 lobe.. Put a timing light on crank pulley , then start
and adjust dissy for best run.. now, put another paint mark max good run location on pulley...retry till satisfied. Confused..no...whynot?

hardtimes · 07-19-2010, 03:33 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jawman

I would say I have an A dissy. and a B cover, so maybe that is why it only fires when I advance the timing all the way. I know that it was 6 volt positive ground, but nobody said that I couldn't make it a negative ground 12 volt system. I will defiantly post some pictures soon. I live in Portland, Oregon.

Jawman,
Is 12v coil..only 12v change or did you change entire system from 6v to 12v? Did you use ballast resistor or internal resistor coil? If not done correctly when converting..may not run..for very long!!

Jawman · 07-19-2010, 07:17 PM

well I got it running and drove it around the drive way for the first time. all the gears seam to be there and I think the speedometer is even working right. I looked at the difference of the two covers model A and model B and decided sense the timing hole on each cover was about 1/4'' off I found 19 degrees before TDC using the timing pin then rotated the engine just a little bit back wards until the timing pin popped out of the timing mark. Now I was hopping I found TDC by doing this then went forward and set the dissy. I got it to run to the point where it idles, revs up, and doesn't die most of the time and then took it for a ride. after shutting it down I noticed I have water in the oil and it seems to be back firing a little after I rev it up then let it idle down. My next step is to take the head off and see what the valves and seats look like. does anybody know where I can find a chart that has all the torque specs. valve lash specs. etc. kind of like a factory service manual?

Jawman · 07-19-2010, 07:22 PM

as for my wiring set up I don't have much. I have a 12v battery going straight to the starter solenoid. a wire going from the solenoid into the dash where I have my on and off toggle switch to a 12v coil witch is supposed be a little different then a normal coil but looks the same, then a wire going from the coil to dissy. I have a Chevy one wire alternator to put in it eventually

Jawman · 07-21-2010, 01:22 PM

speaking of wiring, what does everyone else do about this? is there a complete kit that can just be installed or does everyone just make there ownsetup?

Mike V. Florida · 07-21-2010, 01:55 PM

Best bet would be to get catalogs from vendors close to you. I'm sure Vince Faulter will be here to help address your concerns. See his site below.

http://www.fordgarage.com

ursus · 07-21-2010, 03:30 PM

I have been following your post and wondering how you came to have an "A" distributor on a "B" engine in a "BB" truck. Since the "A" dizzy is manual and controlled by a lever mounted on the steering column, how could anybody advance and retard the timing while driving a truck that didn't come with levers on the steering column?

Except for the different timing mechanisms, an "A" dizzy looks much like a "B" unit. Is it possible that that you already have the corrrect "B" distributor? Study Vince Falter's "4ever4" website for the differences. You could actually time the "B" dizzy with an initial advance of zero at TDC and it would start and run OK, but only up to its total advance of 12-13 degrees, which will only give low speed performance.

Jawman · 07-22-2010, 07:22 PM

I am 100% sure it has an A dizzy. when I got it there was a choke cable that was rigged up to operate the dizzy from inside the cab. I was thinking of maybe finding an A steering column and putting it in there to operate the dizzy better, but I might got for a more modern ignition set up. I was thinking of hot rodding the motor just a little because it is a big truck and only has the 4 cylinder and not the V8. I guess I will try and find a good source for parts and see if I can find a nice ignition, intake, and exhaust setups. unless someone has some used or not being used stuff they want to get rid of.

Chris in WNC · 07-23-2010, 09:45 AM

stick with the 6V pos. ground.

concentrate on fixing only things that are broke rather than something that's not.

also beware of so-called improvements like "modern" distributor plates.

some improvements like the Teflon steer-eze kit are truly worthwhile.

opinions (and your results) will vary.

proceed with cautious deliberation and have fun!

post photos!

Charlie Stephens · 07-23-2010, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jawman

I am 100% sure it has an A dizzy. when I got it there was a choke cable that was rigged up to operate the dizzy from inside the cab. I was thinking of maybe finding an A steering column and putting it in there to operate the dizzy better, but I might got for a more modern ignition set up. I was thinking of hot rodding the motor just a little because it is a big truck and only has the 4 cylinder and not the V8. I guess I will try and find a good source for parts and see if I can find a nice ignition, intake, and exhaust setups. unless someone has some used or not being used stuff they want to get rid of.

It would be cheaper and easier to install the correct distributer. Advertise. A&L (860) 693-0112 or Renner's Corner (734) 428-8424 might have one for sale without a core. I am running a Model B distributer in my Model A because I want the automatic advance.

Charlie Stephens

Jawman · 07-23-2010, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

It would be cheaper and easier to install the correct distributer. Advertise. A&L (860) 693-0112 or Renner's Corner (734) 428-8424 might have one for sale without a core. I am running a Model B distributer in my Model A because I want the automatic advance.

Charlie Stephens

does the model B dizzy have a vacuum advance or centrifugal advance?

Jawman · 07-23-2010, 12:39 PM

I asked this question before, but there is so much going on in this thread I can Bailey keep up. If I have water in the oil does that mean I need to replace the head gasket or is there something else that is causing this? I would also like to find some thing like a factory service manual or something to figure out the torque specs for the head gasket etc. I have a copper head gasket from Sacramento Vintage and the guy said they are a little hard to seal. does anybody have some good advice when putting the head gasket in? do I need to use copper coat?

Charlie Stephens · 07-23-2010, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jawman

does the model B dizzy have a vacuum advance or centrifugal advance?

The Model B has a centrifugal advance.

Charlie Stephens

Jawman · 07-23-2010, 02:16 PM

Charlie Stephens,

thanks for the numbers. A&L says he has one, but he has to figure out a price for one.

Ron Pilger · 07-23-2010, 10:20 PM

Interesting discussion. I, too, have a 32 BB. They make for reliable vehic les... Not too fast, but always eye-catching and fun. Ron Pilger.

pat in Santa Cruz · 07-23-2010, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jawman

I asked this question before, but there is so much going on in this thread I can Bailey keep up. If I have water in the oil does that mean I need to replace the head gasket or is there something else that is causing this? I would also like to find some thing like a factory service manual or something to figure out the torque specs for the head gasket etc. I have a copper head gasket from Sacramento Vintage and the guy said they are a little hard to seal. does anybody have some good advice when putting the head gasket in? do I need to use copper coat?

Water in the oil could be a loose head nut. Try torquing the nuts first. Back off each nut 1/8th turn, then torque it to 55 ft lbs in one smooth motion. Follow the tightening pattern shown in Andrews book, from the center out. I do not have a pic of it, perhaps someone else here does. It could also be a leaky gasket... you should hope that's all it is. If the head is off, I would check the head for warpage and cracks. I would also check the block for cracks, especially from the valve seats to the cylinder walls. B engines have a tendency to crack there. Torque the head bolts to 55 on clean. lightly oiled threads. Do not clean them with a die, use a thread chaser or a wire brush. Pulling the head can be problematic too. A head puller will go a long way towards making it possible.

07-19-2010, 05:28 AM	#2
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger To time it, you need to determine if the distributor is a Model B or Model A. An A distributor has the advance arm coming out of the side of the body in a notch where the body meets the cast base. A B distributor does not have that as it has an internal centrifugal advance. Next, look at the timing pin on the timing gear cover to determine if its a Model B cover or an A cover. see this link to learn about timing covers: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingcovers.htm see this link to time an A: http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm see this link on B distributor timing: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingiseverything.htm The B times similar to the A, with the exception that you are setting the cam at 19 degrees BTC instead of 0 TDC. Obviously an A dist/cover or a B dist/cover is easiest to time. If you have an A dist and a B cover, you'll need some tricks to get it right, which I am sure someone here will provide. why a 12 volt coil??? it was a 6 volt pos ground system. __________________ www.fordgarage.com Last edited by pat in Santa Cruz; 02-01-2011 at 02:09 PM. Reason: updated links

07-19-2010, 09:47 AM	#3
CWPASADENA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PASADENA, CA Posts: 1,884	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger Sounds interesting. I always liked the Trucks. How about letting us know where you live, May be someone near by can help. Also, post some pictures when you ahve time. Good Luck, chris

07-19-2010, 12:05 PM	#4
Jawman Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 39	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger I would say I have an A dissy. and a B cover, so maybe that is why it only fires when I advance the timing all the way. I know that it was 6 volt positive ground, but nobody said that I couldn't make it a negative ground 12 volt system. I will defiantly post some pictures soon. I live in Portland, Oregon. Last edited by Jawman; 07-19-2010 at 12:10 PM.

07-19-2010, 07:17 PM	#7
Jawman Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 39	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger well I got it running and drove it around the drive way for the first time. all the gears seam to be there and I think the speedometer is even working right. I looked at the difference of the two covers model A and model B and decided sense the timing hole on each cover was about 1/4'' off I found 19 degrees before TDC using the timing pin then rotated the engine just a little bit back wards until the timing pin popped out of the timing mark. Now I was hopping I found TDC by doing this then went forward and set the dissy. I got it to run to the point where it idles, revs up, and doesn't die most of the time and then took it for a ride. after shutting it down I noticed I have water in the oil and it seems to be back firing a little after I rev it up then let it idle down. My next step is to take the head off and see what the valves and seats look like. does anybody know where I can find a chart that has all the torque specs. valve lash specs. etc. kind of like a factory service manual?

07-19-2010, 07:22 PM	#8
Jawman Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 39	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger as for my wiring set up I don't have much. I have a 12v battery going straight to the starter solenoid. a wire going from the solenoid into the dash where I have my on and off toggle switch to a 12v coil witch is supposed be a little different then a normal coil but looks the same, then a wire going from the coil to dissy. I have a Chevy one wire alternator to put in it eventually

07-19-2010, 01:01 AM	#1
Jawman Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 39	1932 Ford BB 4 banger Hi, I just joined and I am hoping you guys can help me get somewhere on my project. I recently picked up a 1932 Ford BB truck. From the research I have gotten it is all stock with a 32 b 4 cylinder motor and 4 speed trans. my plan is to first get it to run and drive then go from there. I think it has a model A distributor,intake, Tilitson model X carb, and intake and exhaust manifold on it. I put the upgraded points plate in the dissy, rebuilt the carb with a Sacramento Vintage Ford carb kit, put a 12volt. coil on it and I have gotten it to run for a second or so. what I need know is to tune it in. If someone could tell me how to set the timing on the dissy., tune in the carb, and maybe tell me something else that would help me get it running that would be great.

07-21-2010, 01:22 PM	#9
Jawman Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 39	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger speaking of wiring, what does everyone else do about this? is there a complete kit that can just be installed or does everyone just make there ownsetup?

07-21-2010, 01:55 PM	#10
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger Best bet would be to get catalogs from vendors close to you. I'm sure Vince Faulter will be here to help address your concerns. See his site below. http://www.fordgarage.com __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II Last edited by Mike V. Florida; 12-14-2010 at 01:11 AM.

07-21-2010, 03:30 PM	#11
ursus Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,375	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger I have been following your post and wondering how you came to have an "A" distributor on a "B" engine in a "BB" truck. Since the "A" dizzy is manual and controlled by a lever mounted on the steering column, how could anybody advance and retard the timing while driving a truck that didn't come with levers on the steering column? Except for the different timing mechanisms, an "A" dizzy looks much like a "B" unit. Is it possible that that you already have the corrrect "B" distributor? Study Vince Falter's "4ever4" website for the differences. You could actually time the "B" dizzy with an initial advance of zero at TDC and it would start and run OK, but only up to its total advance of 12-13 degrees, which will only give low speed performance.

07-22-2010, 07:22 PM	#12
Jawman Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 39	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger I am 100% sure it has an A dizzy. when I got it there was a choke cable that was rigged up to operate the dizzy from inside the cab. I was thinking of maybe finding an A steering column and putting it in there to operate the dizzy better, but I might got for a more modern ignition set up. I was thinking of hot rodding the motor just a little because it is a big truck and only has the 4 cylinder and not the V8. I guess I will try and find a good source for parts and see if I can find a nice ignition, intake, and exhaust setups. unless someone has some used or not being used stuff they want to get rid of.

07-23-2010, 09:45 AM	#13
Chris in WNC Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Spruce Pine, NC Posts: 1,458	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger stick with the 6V pos. ground. concentrate on fixing only things that are broke rather than something that's not. also beware of so-called improvements like "modern" distributor plates. some improvements like the Teflon steer-eze kit are truly worthwhile. opinions (and your results) will vary. proceed with cautious deliberation and have fun! post photos!

07-23-2010, 12:39 PM	#16
Jawman Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 39	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger I asked this question before, but there is so much going on in this thread I can Bailey keep up. If I have water in the oil does that mean I need to replace the head gasket or is there something else that is causing this? I would also like to find some thing like a factory service manual or something to figure out the torque specs for the head gasket etc. I have a copper head gasket from Sacramento Vintage and the guy said they are a little hard to seal. does anybody have some good advice when putting the head gasket in? do I need to use copper coat?

07-23-2010, 02:16 PM	#18
Jawman Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 39	Re: 1932 Ford BB 4 banger Charlie Stephens, thanks for the numbers. A&L says he has one, but he has to figure out a price for one.