The Ford Barn

wrndln · 04-16-2012, 09:02 AM

I have several original trim pieces to install on my 28 special coupe. I have 3 of the 4 separated. All of the pieces need some TLC to return them to a "nice" condition. The trim pieces are in generally decent condition. The pieces are: the header trim, the rear top trim, the beltrail trim and the quarter window trim. None of the trim pieces are broken, just dented and uneven. I would appreciate any help or suggestion on the best way to straighten the trim pieces. I have a small trim hammer, but I was wondering if I need to make a "die" from hardwood or metal to gently tap the trim into it original shape. I don't want to mess up the trim as the pieces are hard to find.
Rusty Nelson

d.j. moordigian · 04-16-2012, 05:19 PM

Rusty,

Do you have any photos.....it mite help.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 04-17-2012, 06:06 AM

Yes, make a 'back-up dolly' using wood, metal, Kevlar-stranded body filler, or Lead. Often times in restoration work, making special fixtures, jigs, and/or tooling is just a natural part of the whole restoration process. And, sometime it takes longer to make those tools & fixtures than it does to do the actual item restoration. Everything, ...and I mean everything related to Restoration involves 'time'. Generally speaking, the more 'time' you allot to an item, the better the end result will be.

wrndln · 04-17-2012, 09:16 AM

Thanks for the help, Brent. I think I can make a "wooden die(s)" for the trim to use to hammer the trim into shape. The main part of the beltrail trim is pretty decent, with just the ends (where someone nailed through the outer and inner trim) deformed some. Unfortunately, both ends of the beltrail trim are broken off, which I think is fairly normal. I have some scrap outer beltrail trim I can use to make the ends and a fellow in our club is a very good TIG welder. I think he can weld the ends on to make it look pretty good. I am pretty good with a MIG welder, but the trim is so thin, I don't think I could weld the trim ends with my MIG. I don't know how "good" the narrow or beltrail trim needs to be to look nice when installed. When I removed the two parts of the header trim, the outer piece looked like a pretzel! I have it straightened pretty well, but it is somewhat uneven. I don't know if the trim will install well and look OK or if I have to have it real straight. It is very hard to straighten any more than I have already done. I worked with it for some time yesterday and could only slightly improve it. Since I have never done this before, I don't know how good it needs to be to look good when installed.

Dudley,
I don't think I can post very good pictures of the trim problems as my point and shoot camera wont take good closeup pictures. The things I am concerned about are the gentle curves (unevenness) in the narrow trim. Someone nailed through the outer beltrail trim in 3 or 4 places. I believe the TIG welder fellow in the club can easily weld them up and look nice.
Rusty Nelson

Marco Tahtaras · 04-17-2012, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrndln

I worked with it for some time yesterday and could only slightly improve it. Since I have never done this before, I don't know how good it needs to be to look good when installed.

Rusty Nelson

Unfortunately even little ripples will stick out like a sore thumb.

First, you don't want to spread the width or otherwise loose the shape of the edges that must snap onto the retainer. Find a couple good areas and make a gauge block of sorts to match them. Use that for reference and possibly a tool.

I have a couple small hardwood blocks I attach sandpaper to. I use them on the surface of the moulding instead of a flat file which is too aggressive. This clearly outlines the highs and lows so I can work them out one by one. I generally get them close enough that I can get them quite true in primer without excessive build.

Doug in NJ · 04-17-2012, 10:04 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I had to fix some little dents in my cowl band and door sills, and in each case I was able to make a small die from dental stone (which is a strong fast-drying plaster). I took a small cat food can and cut a couple of notches on opposite sides of the rim so an un-dented portion of the band or sill could lie across the top. Then I filled the can with plaster and pressed the part into it until the plaster set.

Doug

MVal · 04-17-2012, 11:11 PM

Obviously wood is pretty inexpensive for this application, but another thought is Cerro Metal. It is available in an almost unlimited melting points so can be melted in boiling water or even less and is supposed to be hard when it solitifies. I don't know the price but if you search on the internet for "Cerro Metal" there a many companies with info and that sell it.

04-16-2012, 09:02 AM	#1
wrndln Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeville, MN Posts: 5,164	Restoring top trim I have several original trim pieces to install on my 28 special coupe. I have 3 of the 4 separated. All of the pieces need some TLC to return them to a "nice" condition. The trim pieces are in generally decent condition. The pieces are: the header trim, the rear top trim, the beltrail trim and the quarter window trim. None of the trim pieces are broken, just dented and uneven. I would appreciate any help or suggestion on the best way to straighten the trim pieces. I have a small trim hammer, but I was wondering if I need to make a "die" from hardwood or metal to gently tap the trim into it original shape. I don't want to mess up the trim as the pieces are hard to find. Rusty Nelson

04-16-2012, 05:19 PM	#2
d.j. moordigian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 3,636	Re: Restoring top trim Rusty, Do you have any photos.....it mite help.

04-17-2012, 06:06 AM	#3
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,519	Re: Restoring top trim Yes, make a 'back-up dolly' using wood, metal, Kevlar-stranded body filler, or Lead. Often times in restoration work, making special fixtures, jigs, and/or tooling is just a natural part of the whole restoration process. And, sometime it takes longer to make those tools & fixtures than it does to do the actual item restoration. Everything, ...and I mean everything related to Restoration involves 'time'. Generally speaking, the more 'time' you allot to an item, the better the end result will be. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

04-17-2012, 09:16 AM	#4
wrndln Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeville, MN Posts: 5,164	Re: Restoring top trim Thanks for the help, Brent. I think I can make a "wooden die(s)" for the trim to use to hammer the trim into shape. The main part of the beltrail trim is pretty decent, with just the ends (where someone nailed through the outer and inner trim) deformed some. Unfortunately, both ends of the beltrail trim are broken off, which I think is fairly normal. I have some scrap outer beltrail trim I can use to make the ends and a fellow in our club is a very good TIG welder. I think he can weld the ends on to make it look pretty good. I am pretty good with a MIG welder, but the trim is so thin, I don't think I could weld the trim ends with my MIG. I don't know how "good" the narrow or beltrail trim needs to be to look nice when installed. When I removed the two parts of the header trim, the outer piece looked like a pretzel! I have it straightened pretty well, but it is somewhat uneven. I don't know if the trim will install well and look OK or if I have to have it real straight. It is very hard to straighten any more than I have already done. I worked with it for some time yesterday and could only slightly improve it. Since I have never done this before, I don't know how good it needs to be to look good when installed. Dudley, I don't think I can post very good pictures of the trim problems as my point and shoot camera wont take good closeup pictures. The things I am concerned about are the gentle curves (unevenness) in the narrow trim. Someone nailed through the outer beltrail trim in 3 or 4 places. I believe the TIG welder fellow in the club can easily weld them up and look nice. Rusty Nelson

04-17-2012, 10:04 PM	#6
Doug in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Princeton, NJ Posts: 965	Re: Restoring top trim Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I had to fix some little dents in my cowl band and door sills, and in each case I was able to make a small die from dental stone (which is a strong fast-drying plaster). I took a small cat food can and cut a couple of notches on opposite sides of the rim so an un-dented portion of the band or sill could lie across the top. Then I filled the can with plaster and pressed the part into it until the plaster set. Doug __________________ My '31 S/W sedan project:http://31ford.dougbraun.com My restoration diary: http://dougbraun.com/blog

04-17-2012, 11:11 PM	#7
MVal Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 69	Re: Restoring top trim Obviously wood is pretty inexpensive for this application, but another thought is Cerro Metal. It is available in an almost unlimited melting points so can be melted in boiling water or even less and is supposed to be hard when it solitifies. I don't know the price but if you search on the internet for "Cerro Metal" there a many companies with info and that sell it.