The Ford Barn

Mike V. Florida · 05-10-2010, 03:46 AM

In the morning ask for a copy of the Bratton's catalog from Brattons @

Bratton's Antique Auto Parts, Inc.
1606 Back Acre Circle
Mount Airy, MD 21771-7703 Toll FREE Order Number: 1-800-255-1929
Information Number: 1-301-829-9880
FAX: 1-800-774-1930 (U.S. & Canada) 1-301-829-9881 (Elsewhere)
www.brattons.com

There are other vendors but I recommend you start with them. They have exploded view drawing to go with the part numbers.

While you are on the phone, order the Les Andrews MODEL A MECHANICS HANDBOOK - VOL. 1. Part #37580 $36.00
In my opinion this is the best book for the rank beginner. Other opinions may vary.

Rowdy · 05-10-2010, 08:15 AM

You are wlecome. Many vendors sell A parts, but not all of them sell good parts. I noticed you are from Ca. so maybe Sacramento Valley Ford would be closer for you. I do not have their contact info, but it should not be hard to find. I buy most of my parts from Bert's Model A Ford Center in Denver (800-321-1931). The wiring harness for the basic ingition is not high priced and makes it alot simpler. I would also suggest you buy the battery cable also as 6 volts likes fine strand wires as opposed to the thicker strands of 12 volt cables. Dont forget a new grommet for the ignition cable either, I left it out on mine when I was in a hurry to rewire it and get it fired up. Ruined my wiring, filled the shop with smoke and melted my terminal box, so did not make for a good day in the shop. Luckily I had replacements on hand and fired it up later that day with the grommet in place. Its not high priced and good insurance for a couple of dollars. Rod

Rowdy · 05-10-2010, 08:44 AM

Looks like I had the name wrong it is Sacramento Vintage Ford. Here is their website. Also I agree with Mike V. that book is well worth the money. Rod

http://www.vintage-ford.com/

Tom Wesenberg · 05-10-2010, 09:29 AM

I see by that big spot on the floor that your Model A isn't house broke yet! It's time to take it out and make it go on the streets like all the other Model A's.

First fix the front bumper clamps so the bumper doesn't drop off. I always drop the oil pan and side cover and remove the old sludge before starting the engine. You can drop the oil pan upside down onto the grass to knock out the dipper tray to get at the sludge in the bottom. Sometimes it takes a few drops on the grass, or a forceful drop. Hard to tell, but it looks like you don't have the original popout switch, so it should be easy to hot wire by just connecting the two wires together on the switch. Remember the system is 6 volt POSITIVE ground, unless someone changed it. After the battery is in and just before starting it would be good to polarize the generator by jumping a wire between the 2 cutout terminals for 1 second.

As mentioned, if there's a Model A guy close by, like Marco or Dave Lopes it would be a real asset and you could be on the road in no time. I would make sure the brakes are good and properly adjusted, pack the wheel bearings, lube all the linkages, grease the car, check all the fluids, and drive it as is. Then you can get to know the car and make a list of what it needs and piece by piece replace what needs to be replaced or is misssing. Pick up what you want and store it for future use if you plan a full restoration sometime in the future. You may find it's just great the way is is and might also want to just drive it as is. That's what I'm doing with my 28 Phaeton, even though I'm planning to restore it sometime in the future. With good brakes and steering, they are fun to drive in any condition. Just yesterday I noticed that at every stop light people roll down their windows just to hear the Model A engine.

Tom Wesenberg · 05-10-2010, 09:34 AM

BTW Nick, the oval speedometer makes your car a first half of 1930 Model A Coupe. Nice find!

Desi · 05-10-2010, 09:42 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Make it safe enough to drive. Drive it for a while, then restore it later. That's what I wish I had done with mine. I'ts no fun missing all the tours our club has. Best of luck to you!

Tom Wesenberg · 05-10-2010, 12:16 PM

That's why it's best to have at least two Model A's. One to drive and have fun while you're restoring the other one. The trouble with that is you'll have so much fun driving, that the restoration will be put on a back burner. There are at least a couple A's in our club that have been apart for 40 or more years.

Farrell In Vancouver · 05-10-2010, 03:24 PM

Welcome to the brotherhood of Coupes with red shifter Knobs!
You have a fine start there.........way more than I had, and I think you can count ona lot of help here.
Good luck!

Benson · 05-10-2010, 04:00 PM

Would be a good idea to remove one battery cable before removing the dash panel!

Might be a shorted wire in there! The wires might be frayed.

I did not have time to read all the responses so if someone mentioned this ... Sorry.

Richard/Ca · 05-10-2010, 04:53 PM

When I got my first Model A in 1961 it was driveable and thats all. My friends and I got it running (but not before it back fired a few times and split the muffler wide open). After replacing it I drove that car every where and had a ball. Still have it. When I think of the fun we had with it before it was half a** restored I just a

. So make it SAFE & Legal and have some fun for a while.

pat in Santa Cruz · 05-10-2010, 05:39 PM

nearest to you are Sacramento Vintage Ford in Sacto, and AllFord in Los Gatos. You can call them and they'll FedEx it to you quick.

http://www.vintageford.com/

You should join a chapter near you. You will find lots of support and hands on help. The SF chapter is a small but real friendly bunch of guys and women.

http://www.sfmodelaclub.org/

I don't know the San Diego clubs, but someone here will probably chime in and give you the contact info.

You will find most of us buy parts by catalog/mail houses, Favorites for quality are:
Brattons
Snyders
Berts
Mikes
A&L
Standard

pat in Santa Cruz · 05-10-2010, 05:50 PM

This spectacular '31 std coupe was restored by Jim Boehmke in Pleasanton. Its not a trailer queen, but his daily driver. Pretty nice, eh?

Rowdy · 05-10-2010, 05:50 PM

Sure do miss having the vendors page link to direct people to. Rod

Paul from Maine · 05-10-2010, 06:58 PM

Love that deluxe instument panel!

firefirefire90 · 05-10-2010, 07:55 PM

thanks for the links guys! I would have worried about a short with the wires hooked up, but the battery is suuuper dead already, so no worries there. Seems first on the list is to make a new wiring harness, order up a new key, get the point and everything in check, rebuild the generator, get a 6V battery, switch the battery leads, and then find out why the top end of the motor wont turn.

Last question about that, is there any reason why the top end of the motor would be so difficult to turn? We can get the rest of the motor to turn over, but the fan wont really move with it.. it's like it's all stuck up in there..

Bill in Al · 05-10-2010, 08:02 PM

Welcome!

Rowdy · 05-10-2010, 08:03 PM

Likely the waterpump is stiff to the point on being on the edge of seizing up. Might want to take it off and see what that might need for rebuild parts ar atleast a good cleaning. The dront bearing can be greased with regular grease, but the back bushing requires waterpump grease. Don't forget the funny looking nut on the back bushing is a packing nut and has a packing inside. Rod

Tom Wesenberg · 05-10-2010, 08:12 PM

I wouldn't be so quick to replace everything. Put a battery charger on the battery 3 to 6 amp charger, and see if the battery won't take a charge. Make sure it has electrolite covering the top of the plates, and monitor the battey. If it gets very warm stop charging and buy a new battery.

By "top of the engine", I guess you just mean the water pump. It may just need grease, but don't pump much into the rear bushing or it will wind up in the radiator and coat the tubes. It is very easy to rebuild the water pump if need be.

Don't make your own wiring harness. They are very resonable to buy one all made up, if you need one. I like to rebuild the 5 engine bolt on's, namely the water pump, generator, starter, carb, and distributor. Then you will be in good shape, if the sludge has been removed from the oil pan and new oil added.
As you work on each part, just ask here for what you can't find in a few good Model A books. Jim Mason has a good book list on his site.

firefirefire90 · 05-10-2010, 08:31 PM

oh, so the fan is attached to the water pump? How interesting! Well the starter is doing just fine, and the carb was rebuilt by yours truly, but i guess first thing I should have ordered was a manual(always did this with motorcycles, just figured there would be more DIY's on this forum like in the BMW world). The oil looked like it had been replaced recently, which is interesting.. same with the distributor. It looked brand new! I also checked on that vintageford.com and could not find a new wiring harness and the internal parts of the generator?

Rowdy · 05-10-2010, 08:50 PM

Yip that is the water pump. As Tom says do not overgrease the back bushing. Here is a good website for carbs, including instructions on setting the choke level. Rod

http://www.model-a.org/

05-10-2010, 03:46 AM	#41
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! In the morning ask for a copy of the Bratton's catalog from Brattons @ Bratton's Antique Auto Parts, Inc. 1606 Back Acre Circle Mount Airy, MD 21771-7703 Toll FREE Order Number: 1-800-255-1929 Information Number: 1-301-829-9880 FAX: 1-800-774-1930 (U.S. & Canada) 1-301-829-9881 (Elsewhere) www.brattons.com There are other vendors but I recommend you start with them. They have exploded view drawing to go with the part numbers. While you are on the phone, order the Les Andrews MODEL A MECHANICS HANDBOOK - VOL. 1. Part #37580 $36.00 In my opinion this is the best book for the rank beginner. Other opinions may vary. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

05-10-2010, 08:15 AM	#42
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! You are wlecome. Many vendors sell A parts, but not all of them sell good parts. I noticed you are from Ca. so maybe Sacramento Valley Ford would be closer for you. I do not have their contact info, but it should not be hard to find. I buy most of my parts from Bert's Model A Ford Center in Denver (800-321-1931). The wiring harness for the basic ingition is not high priced and makes it alot simpler. I would also suggest you buy the battery cable also as 6 volts likes fine strand wires as opposed to the thicker strands of 12 volt cables. Dont forget a new grommet for the ignition cable either, I left it out on mine when I was in a hurry to rewire it and get it fired up. Ruined my wiring, filled the shop with smoke and melted my terminal box, so did not make for a good day in the shop. Luckily I had replacements on hand and fired it up later that day with the grommet in place. Its not high priced and good insurance for a couple of dollars. Rod __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!

05-10-2010, 08:44 AM	#43
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! Looks like I had the name wrong it is Sacramento Vintage Ford. Here is their website. Also I agree with Mike V. that book is well worth the money. Rod http://www.vintage-ford.com/ __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!

05-10-2010, 09:29 AM	#44
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! I see by that big spot on the floor that your Model A isn't house broke yet! It's time to take it out and make it go on the streets like all the other Model A's. First fix the front bumper clamps so the bumper doesn't drop off. I always drop the oil pan and side cover and remove the old sludge before starting the engine. You can drop the oil pan upside down onto the grass to knock out the dipper tray to get at the sludge in the bottom. Sometimes it takes a few drops on the grass, or a forceful drop. Hard to tell, but it looks like you don't have the original popout switch, so it should be easy to hot wire by just connecting the two wires together on the switch. Remember the system is 6 volt POSITIVE ground, unless someone changed it. After the battery is in and just before starting it would be good to polarize the generator by jumping a wire between the 2 cutout terminals for 1 second. As mentioned, if there's a Model A guy close by, like Marco or Dave Lopes it would be a real asset and you could be on the road in no time. I would make sure the brakes are good and properly adjusted, pack the wheel bearings, lube all the linkages, grease the car, check all the fluids, and drive it as is. Then you can get to know the car and make a list of what it needs and piece by piece replace what needs to be replaced or is misssing. Pick up what you want and store it for future use if you plan a full restoration sometime in the future. You may find it's just great the way is is and might also want to just drive it as is. That's what I'm doing with my 28 Phaeton, even though I'm planning to restore it sometime in the future. With good brakes and steering, they are fun to drive in any condition. Just yesterday I noticed that at every stop light people roll down their windows just to hear the Model A engine.

05-10-2010, 09:34 AM	#45
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! BTW Nick, the oval speedometer makes your car a first half of 1930 Model A Coupe. Nice find!

05-10-2010, 09:42 AM	#46
Desi Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Joliet,Illinois Posts: 51	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Make it safe enough to drive. Drive it for a while, then restore it later. That's what I wish I had done with mine. I'ts no fun missing all the tours our club has. Best of luck to you!

05-10-2010, 12:16 PM	#47
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! That's why it's best to have at least two Model A's. One to drive and have fun while you're restoring the other one. The trouble with that is you'll have so much fun driving, that the restoration will be put on a back burner. There are at least a couple A's in our club that have been apart for 40 or more years.

05-10-2010, 03:24 PM	#48
Farrell In Vancouver Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pitt Meadows BC Posts: 1,003	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! Welcome to the brotherhood of Coupes with red shifter Knobs! You have a fine start there.........way more than I had, and I think you can count ona lot of help here. Good luck!

05-10-2010, 04:00 PM	#49
Benson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,595	Re: Hello all, new to the forum!-Warning! Would be a good idea to remove one battery cable before removing the dash panel! Might be a shorted wire in there! The wires might be frayed. I did not have time to read all the responses so if someone mentioned this ... Sorry.

05-10-2010, 04:53 PM	#50
Richard/Ca Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Manteca,Ca, Posts: 368	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! When I got my first Model A in 1961 it was driveable and thats all. My friends and I got it running (but not before it back fired a few times and split the muffler wide open). After replacing it I drove that car every where and had a ball. Still have it. When I think of the fun we had with it before it was half a** restored I just a. So make it SAFE & Legal and have some fun for a while.

05-10-2010, 05:39 PM	#51
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! nearest to you are Sacramento Vintage Ford in Sacto, and AllFord in Los Gatos. You can call them and they'll FedEx it to you quick. http://www.vintageford.com/ You should join a chapter near you. You will find lots of support and hands on help. The SF chapter is a small but real friendly bunch of guys and women. http://www.sfmodelaclub.org/ I don't know the San Diego clubs, but someone here will probably chime in and give you the contact info. You will find most of us buy parts by catalog/mail houses, Favorites for quality are: Brattons Snyders Berts Mikes A&L Standard

05-10-2010, 05:50 PM	#53
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! Sure do miss having the vendors page link to direct people to. Rod __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!

05-10-2010, 06:58 PM	#54
Paul from Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oxford Hills, Maine Posts: 325	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! Love that deluxe instument panel!

05-10-2010, 07:55 PM	#55
firefirefire90 Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: San Francisco/San Diego, CA Posts: 47	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! thanks for the links guys! I would have worried about a short with the wires hooked up, but the battery is suuuper dead already, so no worries there. Seems first on the list is to make a new wiring harness, order up a new key, get the point and everything in check, rebuild the generator, get a 6V battery, switch the battery leads, and then find out why the top end of the motor wont turn. Last question about that, is there any reason why the top end of the motor would be so difficult to turn? We can get the rest of the motor to turn over, but the fan wont really move with it.. it's like it's all stuck up in there..

05-10-2010, 08:02 PM	#56
Bill in Al Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pell City (New London) Al Posts: 317	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! Welcome!

05-10-2010, 08:03 PM	#57
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! Likely the waterpump is stiff to the point on being on the edge of seizing up. Might want to take it off and see what that might need for rebuild parts ar atleast a good cleaning. The dront bearing can be greased with regular grease, but the back bushing requires waterpump grease. Don't forget the funny looking nut on the back bushing is a packing nut and has a packing inside. Rod __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!

05-10-2010, 08:12 PM	#58
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! I wouldn't be so quick to replace everything. Put a battery charger on the battery 3 to 6 amp charger, and see if the battery won't take a charge. Make sure it has electrolite covering the top of the plates, and monitor the battey. If it gets very warm stop charging and buy a new battery. By "top of the engine", I guess you just mean the water pump. It may just need grease, but don't pump much into the rear bushing or it will wind up in the radiator and coat the tubes. It is very easy to rebuild the water pump if need be. Don't make your own wiring harness. They are very resonable to buy one all made up, if you need one. I like to rebuild the 5 engine bolt on's, namely the water pump, generator, starter, carb, and distributor. Then you will be in good shape, if the sludge has been removed from the oil pan and new oil added. As you work on each part, just ask here for what you can't find in a few good Model A books. Jim Mason has a good book list on his site. Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 05-10-2010 at 08:15 PM. Reason: spelling

05-10-2010, 08:31 PM	#59
firefirefire90 Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: San Francisco/San Diego, CA Posts: 47	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! oh, so the fan is attached to the water pump? How interesting! Well the starter is doing just fine, and the carb was rebuilt by yours truly, but i guess first thing I should have ordered was a manual(always did this with motorcycles, just figured there would be more DIY's on this forum like in the BMW world). The oil looked like it had been replaced recently, which is interesting.. same with the distributor. It looked brand new! I also checked on that vintageford.com and could not find a new wiring harness and the internal parts of the generator?

05-10-2010, 08:50 PM	#60
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: Hello all, new to the forum! Yip that is the water pump. As Tom says do not overgrease the back bushing. Here is a good website for carbs, including instructions on setting the choke level. Rod http://www.model-a.org/ __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!