Ford 150 OD Transmission install in 31 Roadster

[Corley]

Just curious here, when installing the F150 rts transmission, if one goes with an open drive shaft. 1) If using the car (A) bell housing, how much of the inverted U shaped cross member has to be chopped? 2) Likewise, if using an (AA) truck bell housing, does the inverted U cross member have to be cut at all?

Note, both questions assume a) an open driveshaft, and b) the stock f150 rts output shaft and output housing. Alternatively, how long is the rts transmission, and maybe I can just measure this for interference with the cross member.

Thanks in advance

[duke36]

Like Carl, I have Delmue's tranny approx. 20 years old. Very nice set up. Glad they are still available. The input shaft is different from a stock A (on ours) requiring a clutch disk to fit the number of splines. It's suggested not to over fill the tranny box to minimize any seepage out the rear at the clam shells. Also, make sure there is a good thin stiff rubber pad on top of the cross member at the rear support angle as the tranny weighs in approx 2x the A box.

[old31]

Daves kit includes a rubber pad for the x member.

How do you change oil in this trans, it does not have a drain plug.

[AL in NY]

old31: you'll never have to change the oil in that transmission. You should not be have shifting problems going into 2nd gear unless the transmission wasn't properly rebuilt by Dave Delmue. There is no adjustment for smoother shifting inside the transmission. Only thing it can be is a worn 1st-2nd syncro.

[CarlG]

Al,
The transmission one gets from Dave is essentially a new transmission. He uses a used RTS case, but the innards are top quality gears and new synchros. He has built over 175 of these over the years, and if any of the others are like mine, they are top notch. They all take a bit of running to get everything to settle in, but that should be all smooth sailing from then on.

[old31]

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Carl I am sure you are correct.

I only have 50 miles of driving so far.

First, third and 4th are real slick to get in and out of, second is just a tiny bit notchy or sticky to get in to.

[AL in NY]

Carl: unless Dave Delume manufactures the gears himself, the "innards" are not new. You can buy the new seals, bearings and synchros. I know from experience that the cluster gears are not available and only a couple of the other gears can be found new. A USED cluster gear will cost you $200-$300 alone. If he could find new gears, he couldn't afford to put them in the transmissions he includes in his kits and sell it for $2500-$3000.

[old31]

Follow up:

I have about 800 miles with the new trans and I could not be any happier with Dave Delmues stuff. The second gear notchy feel seams to be getting a little smoother.

Today I went on a 140 mile highway trip between 55-60 mph all the way and no issues.

[duke36]

Question on F150 tranny fluid change for Delmue conversion: we recently used 80-90w non synthetic gear lube after using a suction gun with flexible clear plastic hose at the fill hole . The old fluid removed was not ATF.

[kenparker]

The original Ford manual for the F150 RTS and its predessor the RUG recommends 80-90 wt Gear oil. I have one of the ,manuals.

[old31]

I asked Dave about changing the oil because the trans does not have a drain plug.

His answer was you do not change the oil.

That sure sounds odd to me.

What are you guys doing about f150 oil changes, if you do.

[harryc]

Try --Valley Machine Shop---Bakersfield. Their website shows what they offer

[rotorwrench]

The design forces the lube to be drawn out with a suction gun or some other form of pump. There is no such thing as a transmission that needs no regular lubrication service. Lubricant breaks down over time. Ford recommended standard transmission lubricant (SAE 80W) D8DZ-19C547-A (ESP-M2C83-C) in their manual. It's capacity is 3.5 pints or 1.7 liters.

[CarlG]

Dave never said "don't change the oil". What he did say is that Ford did not install a drain plug, and to drain it, you must suck it out the drain plug. He also recommended a full synthetic oil, Redline (or equivalent) 75-85, 85-90. Nothing heavier than 90.

Redline is not readily available where I live, so I have Lucas Synthetic 75W-90 in my transmission. I do check it at least once every season (about 3,000 miles) and have never had to add any, and it is still in good shape.

Someone above mentioned ATF. That is Automatic Transmission Fluid, and should NOT be used in this "manual" transmission.

[rotorwrench]

Some manual transmissions use ATF but the one in question doesn't. I was referring more to post #84 on the regular service. These old TODs aren't bad units but no one makes the gears or other hard parts. The folks that offer conversion transmissions have to hoard parts. At some point, it will get harder to find parts unless some manufacturer steps up. The Tremec plant in Mexico hasn't produced parts for them since the contract for them ended which was likely back in the 90s. Early 1987 was the last production year for Ford pickups that used them. I look for overdrive gears and clusters but they don't show up at all. Transmissions are still out there but a person has to scour the salvage yards to find them.

[AL in NY]

rotorwrench: there is an online used parts search the works very well for me. It's "car-parts.com", a real time saver.

[duke36]

Originally Posted by old31

Within the last few weeks I received my fully syncro/overdrive kit from David Delhome.

Dave has been nothing but first class all the way. He promptly answered all of my stupid questions by either phone or email.

I went with Dave because he keeps the torque tube, does not make alterations to the frame or brake units, didn't have a second lever in the cab, is about $1k cheaper than Mitchell overdrive and Synch set up.

All of the guys doing the trans/OD set ups are priced about the same. All of the conversions are very good, and it becomes personal preference as to what you want or don't want.

I also like the idea of just one box to install instead of Mitchells two boxes.

I spoke with many owners of Mitchell and they love them. I spoke with Mitchell and they were great. I spoke with Volvo owners and they love them. I spoke with two of the other manufactures (I don't remember the names) but they got rid ofthe torque tube, and or made alterations to the frame and/or brakes.

I haven't started the project, but I will report my findings when it is completed.

Dave supplies the shortened t tube, shortened drive shaft, shortened rear radius arms, bell housing, throwout bearing, clutch disk, gearshift, floor template to cut out the floor/carpet and spacers to make the trans fit. The quality of his work really looks great.

Enclosed is the trans I received.

Interesting the nylock or airplane nuts holding the housing. Thanks for the photos. Also, you may need a non-stock alignment tool for the clutch/ pressure plate upon assembly.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by duke36

... Also, you may need a non-stock alignment tool for the clutch/ pressure plate upon assembly.

That tool is readily available at your local auto supply store. As I remember, that was included in the kit I received from Dave.

[duke36]

Originally Posted by old31

I am looking to install Ford RTS 150 4 speed trans with a 41% OD.

Car is a 31 Deluxe Roadster with Snyder 5.5 head, enlarged intakes, new motor, B grind cam, FSI Zipper distributor and 4:11 rear end.

I would appreciate it if the people that make the complete 150 kits PM me with your kit info, or reply to this post so others could have the same information.

I have read everything I can from the Barn, Hamb, Mitchell, Volvo, etc.

Be advised that the FS zipper may be a bearing knock issue due to advanced timing with the higher compression head on hills. Search the threads for a discussion about this.

[old31]

What do you think of installing a drain plug on the bottom of the F150? Has anyone done it?

It would beat sucking it out and it would drain 100% of the oil.