Shifting trouble in a 29'

[Bob C]

I checked a couple of bell housings I have and I can move the fork and shaft
like the one in 1955's picture with one finger. If you can't move yours freely then there is one of your problems.

Bob

[30 Tudor]

There is a shaft, a lever two bushings and a fork.
The shaft goes all the way through the lower bell housing,,it is binding in the bushings.

You can see the dowels going through the inspection hole and pointing to the shaft. It won't bend easily, you probably couldn't break it if you had to,
you can wack it pretty good, but don't gouge it up with steel chisels or pipes
it just ain't right. A two x two might work,,,it needs to be like silk,,,,,,,
You can do it!

[daveymc29]

My 29 roadster now has a Mitchell box with the 15% increase in first and second. It is quite a pleasure to drive. On the inclines there isn't much chance of losing RPM during a shift. With a 26% overdrive and 3:54 gears and 600 X 16 tires and having just replaced the modern tube shocks with Mr. Paul's rebuilds it is smooth. A F100 (1966) steering box and shorter pitman arm have reduced the pain in my arthritic hands while driving for any distance. All together it is quite pleasant to drive now and the wife could drive it home if I can't.

[J Franklin]

So what are you trying to say daveymc29?

[iamskee]

Bob and 30tudor thank you so much! And as I read my previous messages I apologize for all the little typos! I was typing on the phone in the garage right after I would try something on the car and clearly was not as careful typing.

The photos really help, will try to tapa tapa tapa in a few!

[Gunmetal blue2]

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Just thought of something, is the hole in your guide shaft to big. I am talking about that the fork is riveted to the shaft. This would not let you shift all the way in to 2 or 3 gear. Just my 2 cents.

[iamskee]

Have it some wacks and sprayed some more. Doesn't seem to have done anything. Is there anyway to remove that shaft either to the left or right side to clean ends?

[iamskee]

Gunmetal the shifting is ok now. It's the throwout bearing and the hub not retracting all the way/getting stuck in the forward position that is the problem.

[Gunmetal blue2]

Glad to hear that the problem is under control.

[iamskee]

Well the hub problem is still not ok. The shifting is ok, but the clutch/hub/bearing is still sticking. I can't figure it out. I took 1955's (post #95) suggestion and ordered a clutch spring today. Should be here in a couple days. Will update if it works or not.

[Big hammer]

Originally Posted by iamskee

Well the hub problem is still not ok. The shifting is ok, but the clutch/hub/bearing is still sticking. I can't figure it out. I took 1955's (post #95) suggestion and ordered a clutch spring today. Should be here in a couple days. Will update if it works or not.

Now your getting somewhere:-)
Putting this out there to all, with the spring disconnect and the pedal up( fork back) can the hub be rorated in the forword postion? If it can then spin it by hand where it's sticking, maybe free it up? I have never tried this just throwing it out there. We all need the car fixed!

[iamskee]

Well I got the second spring in place as suggested. To my complete disappointment, it does nothing. Something is sticking somewhere and its not enough for two springs to overcome it.

Thank you all for your help, but I guess the bearing is just going to spin and "go with the flow" for now. I wish we had more mechanics/club members down here.

Thank you all for the suggestions, tips, hints and support. If anything changes I will continue to update.

Andrew

[J Franklin]

When your throwout bearing finally seizes and you take it apart to replace it you will most likely find the source of the binding. It will be a big AHA!

[RonC]

Originally Posted by iamskee

Well I got the second spring in place as suggested. To my complete disappointment, it does nothing. Something is sticking somewhere and its not enough for two springs to overcome it.

Thank you all for your help, but I guess the bearing is just going to spin and "go with the flow" for now. I wish we had more mechanics/club members down here.

Thank you all for the suggestions, tips, hints and support. If anything changes I will continue to update.

Andrew

In your video. Your throw out bearing looks like it is not pressed against the stop of the throwout bearing collar. See attached screen shot of your video. After you press it back adjust your clutch to 1" free pedal. You have a lot of grease in there. Your clutch may get trashed once you start driving it and the heat melts it. You may be able to rinse it off with brake clean.

[iamskee]

Ron, what exactly do you mean the hub is not pressed against the color. Is it supposed to be? Doesn't seem like it would be easy to move.

[RonC]

Originally Posted by iamskee

Ron, what exactly do you mean the hub is not pressed against the color. Is it supposed to be? Doesn't seem like it would be easy to move.

It looks like in the video the bearing is not all the way on the throwout bearing collar? It needs to be pressed on as far back as it can go. Take a closeup picture

[iamskee]

Here are a couple close ups of the hub and bearing. Thoughts?

[1955cj5]

Originally Posted by iamskee

Here are a couple close ups of the hub and bearing. Thoughts?

It does look as though the bearing is not up against that collar/ridge on the carrier. 1/8" to maybe 3/16ths inch gap.

I'm not sure if you will be able move it.....two long screw drivers, one one each side of the bearing between the bearing and pressure plate and you might be able to pry it back..be careful what you pry against so you don't damage anything else. You will have to press it evenly, both sides at the same time.

If it were loose enough to move by hand it probably would have already seated as there is quite a bit of pressure on the bearing whenever you use the clutch.

You probably need to start thinking about either pulling the engine or removing the rear end and transmission. If you keep the car you will eventually need to replace the throw out bearing if the problem continues.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Not only is there a gap at the rear of the bearing, but the gap on the front side to the fingers is also way too great.

[30 Tudor]

In the first pic in post 78 it appears that the adjustment rod is digging into the clutch pedal at full return?

In the videos in post 79 it appears that there is something dragging in the throw out bearing fork main shaft.

It still appears that the inability to release the bearing is in the tightness of the bushings for that shaft, they appear tight. You cannot move the shaft with your hand with everything disconnected, it should be free.

I would take a block of wood and depress the pedal and wedge the bearing in the apply position so I could pull the pedal back, disconnect the arm and get more room to slide the shaft back and forth in the housing to get it cleaned up and freed up.
Don't wedge the bearing itself but the collar, between the boss for the grease zerk and the top angle, joint,(corner) where the bell joins the mounting face. This could be a bit tricky and would take two people, watch the fingers.

Once the bearing is out of the way there will be room to slide the shaft back and forth a bit further to facilitate cleaning and loosening.
I would get the shaft loose first,,,if everything else was perfect, it is still a no go with the shaft that tight.