Anyone using the Nu-Rex tool or advance?

[DaWizard]

I ran across this last night and whew, does it look sweet.

I am just wondering, with the amount of cars we have here, is anyone using either the tool or the Distributor centrifugal Advance?

Inquiring minds want to know.

http://www.nurex.com/

[1crosscut]

I like the Nu-Rex tool. Very simple and works quite well.

[Synchro909]

I have the tool to set the timing and have used it. It works well and is simple. You can't go wrong.
I also have the advance mechanism though I haven't installed it yet. I intend to.
I acquired it from a friend who took it out of his B engine after a rebuild. He is OLD school and preferred to stay with the original manual method of advancing the ignition. It is invisible once installed and seemed to do a good job from what I recall of the car before he removed it.
Recommended X2

[Gary WA]

Works for a starting point. But need to still dial in a little closer. Wishing All "A" Happy Model "A" New Year.

[31a]

I have the tool works good, a friend built some simple lights to hook across the points that light when the points open very easy to use also. I like the point setter that is out now, simply slip a tool over the cam and you can set the points in any position, very easy.

[40 Deluxe]

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Nothing wrong with the original Ford method. Simple and quick. Just need a 1/2" wrench for the timing pin, a straight screwdriver, hand crank and your eyeballs. No need for all the primping and preening some guys go through!
Here's a summary of page 24 in the Model A Instruction Book: Find TDC with the timing pin. Verify the rotor is pointing at #1 terminal in distributor cap. Remove rotor and loosen cam screw until cam can be turned with a slight drag. Quoting now: "slightly turn the cam in a counter clockwise direction, until the breaker points are fully opened, then slowly turn the cam back in a clockwise direction until the points just close. Next lock the cam by securely tightening the cam locking screw. This method prevents any backlash in the distributor shaft from affecting the timing." End quote.
Next rotate the engine backward a few degrees. Turn on the ignition switch and slowly crank the engine with the hand crank until the pin seats in the dimple. Just as the pin seats, "a spark should occur between the points." Done! Simple!
Next, what happens after you start the engine? You pull the spark lever down to where you like it. You just changed the timing from the original setting! So why fuss and fiddle repeatedly and buy expensive tools?? No need to over think and over complicate!

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Nothing wrong with the original Ford method. Simple and quick. Just need a 1/2" wrench for the timing pin, a straight screwdriver, hand crank and your eyeballs. No need for all the primping and preening some guys go through!
Here's a summary of page 24 in the Model A Instruction Book: Find TDC with the timing pin. Verify the rotor is pointing at #1 terminal in distributor cap. Remove rotor and loosen cam screw until cam can be turned with a slight drag. Quoting now: "slightly turn the cam in a counter clockwise direction, until the breaker points are fully opened, then slowly turn the cam back in a clockwise direction until the points just close. Next lock the cam by securely tightening the cam locking screw. This method prevents any backlash in the distributor shaft from affecting the timing." End quote.
Next rotate the engine backward a few degrees. Turn on the ignition switch and slowly crank the engine with the hand crank until the pin seats in the dimple. Just as the pin seats, "a spark should occur between the points." Done! Simple!
Next, what happens after you start the engine? You pull the spark lever down to where you like it. You just changed the timing from the original setting! So why fuss and fiddle repeatedly and buy expensive tools?? No need to over think and over complicate!

Not sure how long you have owned and timed a Model A, but after reading and watching the video from Nu-Rex, I bought the tool.
Since I have been setting the points and timing for the last 55+ years, I find it intriguing someone has come up with a simpler way of doing it.

So glad you read and understood the question the post was about.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

Works for a starting point. But need to still dial in a little closer. Wishing All "A" Happy Model "A" New Year.

Why? Even if the timing is set 5 degrees out (and that's a lot), you simply pull the lever a little more or less down as you drive. There is more than enough room to do it.
Don't over think these things!

[Tom Wesenberg]

New Years resolution.............MUST set timing, MUST reset timing, MUST reset timing again, must keep resetting timing until it doesn't start!

[C26Pinelake]

You run across it last night and you have already bought it and used it ? You sure are quick! Wayne

[Drive Shaft Dave]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

New Years resolution.............MUST set timing, MUST reset timing, MUST reset timing again, must keep resetting timing until it doesn't start!

x 20 on to infinity.

[Al 29Tudor]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

New Years resolution.............MUST set timing, MUST reset timing, MUST reset timing again, must keep resetting timing until it doesn't start!

My first chuckle of the new year
Thank you

[captndan]

Originally Posted by Al 29Tudor

My first chuckle of the new year
Thank you

Me too! Thanks Tom.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Why? Even if the timing is set 5 degrees out (and that's a lot), you simply pull the lever a little more or less down as you drive. There is more than enough room to do it.
Don't over think these things!

Because i'm perfect and I can!Why mess with the lever do it right. To many people play with the lever!!! and at 67 I'll do it perfect! Happy Model "A" New Year!

[zzlegend]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

New Years resolution.............MUST set timing, MUST reset timing, MUST reset timing again, must keep resetting timing until it doesn't start!

LOL. Just made my morning.

[Mitch//pa]

I have also found the nurex tool gets you close but not right on the money. I find a tad amount of play where the tool fits onto the shaft along with other variables such as when winding the tool around to remove the rotational play its not always the same as cranking and setting it with a screwdriver..that will put you close but not always perfect. I like to set the timing to be as perfect as i can so that when i am starting the car with the lever up i know that i am not overly advanced or retarted. In the end this will affect my final carb adjustments which i have not seen mentioned. I have the tool and mainly bought it to check it out,,,i carry it in my tool travel bag but when playing at home i set it the correct way....

Happy New Year to all you Barners...

[emf]

Not too many mentions of the auto advance gyro... I have one and it does the job...
My A has a B engine with some modifications... Stipe Cam, Brumfield head, downdraft carbs. When I had the standard B distributor with mechanical advance, the engine would run hot at higher speeds. After testing the water pump, radiator flow, adding washers to restrict the flow in the upper hose, all of that, I turned to timing. I looked at the timing with a light at all rpm's and notice that the timing mark only advance about 12 degrees max. I discussed this with Bob at Nurex, both in Hershey and on the phone and told him my story. He suggested that the original B distributor was not advancing the timing enough for my application and suggested the auto advance gyro. The car runs better than ever and the high temps at higher speeds is a thing of the past. I found it simple to understand and simple to install. I never looked back.....

Frank

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by emf

Not too many mentions of the auto advance gyro... I have one and it does the job...
My A has a B engine with some modifications... Stipe Cam, Brumfield head, downdraft carbs. When I had the standard B distributor with mechanical advance, the engine would run hot at higher speeds. After testing the water pump, radiator flow, adding washers to restrict the flow in the upper hose, all of that, I turned to timing. I looked at the timing with a light at all rpm's and notice that the timing mark only advance about 12 degrees max. I discussed this with Bob at Nurex, both in Hershey and on the phone and told him my story. He suggested that the original B distributor was not advancing the timing enough for my application and suggested the auto advance gyro. The car runs better than ever and the high temps at higher speeds is a thing of the past. I found it simple to understand and simple to install. I never looked back.....

Frank

Whew, what a breath of fresh air. THANKS emf, THAT is exactly what I was asking for, someone using the parts.

Happy New Year!

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

Whew, what a breath of fresh air. THANKS emf, THAT is ""exactly"" what I was asking for, someone using the parts.

Happy New Year!

Heading of thread anyone using the nurex tool or advance??
Post #1 is anyone using the tool and a link to it

Apparently more have experience with the tool as most run stock cars.... maybe change your original question or start another thread if u feel u go to many tool responses or never wanted to hear them at all.

Its gonna be an interesting YEAR

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Heading of thread anyone using the nurex tool or advance??
Post #1 is anyone using the tool and a link to it

Apparently more have experience with the tool.... maybe change your original question or start another thread if u feel u go to many tool responses or never wanted to hear them at all.

Its gonna be an interesting YEAR

Are you saying that the first line of the post, "I am just wondering, with the amount of cars we have here, is anyone using either the tool or the Distributor centrifugal Advance?", isn't plain enough?

Since all I got for responses was about the tool, it is a breath of fresh air to get a response on the Advance unit.

I am truly sorry Mitch, that folk read what they want and not what is written, seems this happens all over the world withing all age groups, and it seems it happens way too often within this forum, as well as the dysfunctional "Preview Post" that folk don't seem to use to review their posts and correct grammar and spelling.

[The Master Cylinder]

Have you tried the search function? These items are not new. They have been around for years. There have been numerous inquiries in the past.
Here's one to get you started. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...7506&showall=1

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

Have you tried the search function? These items are not new. They have been around for years. There have been numerous inquiries in the past.
Here's one to get you started. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...7506&showall=1

Actually I did do a Search before posting the thread and did not have the same results. Excuse me for not finding the already posted data. I will endeavor to widen my Search parameters in the future. Seems I need to resume my reading of the posts past 100 pages.

Thanks for finding what could not.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

Have you tried the search fuuujnction? These items are not new. They have been around for years. There have been numerous inquiries in the past.
Here's one to get you started. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...7506&showall=1

I agree with you completely. Wayne

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

Because i'm perfect and I can!Why mess with the lever do it right. To many people play with the lever!!! and at 67 I'll do it perfect! Happy Model "A" New Year!

Gary, If you're NOT "playing" with the lever, you're not following instructions! Quoting from the Model A Instruction Book, page 10: "For average driving the spark lever should be carried about half way down the quadrant. Only for high speeds should the spark lever be advanced all the way down the quadrant. When the engine is under a heavy load as in climbing steep hills, driving through heavy sand, etc., the spark lever should be retarded sufficiently to prevent a spark knock."

[Mitch//pa]

Over the last 6-7 years of this version of ford barn's existence pretty much every topic asked is searchable. Usually things like backup cameras, reverse light switches, electric fans, suspension altering, honda stop light switches, roof mucking, leather fuel gauge gaskets etc, etc may need to be asked as the archives may not prove to show much if any information.

[pgerhardt]

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Originally Posted by Synchro909

Why? Even if the timing is set 5 degrees out (and that's a lot), you simply pull the lever a little more or less down as you drive. There is more than enough room to do it.
Don't over think these things!

X2! Since the timing is (or should be) adjusted by the driver why obsess over the initial setting.

Of course if you are going to use an automatic advance (to bring this discussion full circle) the initial setting becomes more important since it is the base line for the automatic adjustments.

[1930marie]

I bought the NuRex pretty much just to check it out. As fellow "barners" are saying, "it gets one pretty close, however, not exact where it needs to be for the reasons Mitch commented with regards to carb. adjustment. This thread asks about "the" tool. Here's the point, if one has years of maintenance hours logged on his A, I doubt timing is an issue (exceptions for some lol). My NuRex was tried and tossed in my box since by timing light (two alligator clips, two 12 inch strands of wire and a socket and bulb) is faster and dead on for my needs.

[1930marie]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Over the last 6-7 years of this version of ford barn's existence pretty much every topic asked is searchable. Usually things like backup cameras, reverse light switches, electric fans, suspension altering, honda stop light switches, roof mucking, leather fuel gauge gaskets etc, etc may need to be asked as the archives may not prove to show much if any information.

Mitch, I for one appreciate your time, expertise and the giving back to the hobby that you so generously do. I look forward to seeing your "handle" and read every comment learning something new. Admittedly, I'm one of those that have to read the same thing over and over until it finally "sinks" in! I don't mind seeing the same threads over and over again because it helps "pound it in" to my limited capacity (brain) learning ability. lol Can you imagine the trouble our periodicals would be in if they had to depend on new develops each issue? lol Please keep your popularly anticipated posts coming and many blessings to you and the family for 2017.

[Mitch//pa]

Mike thank you for the very kind words and encouragement
Have a great 2017.

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by forever4

You being from 'Dizzyland' and all, I figured you already had all the dizzy answers and were just trolling.

Sorry, but I don't troll. I ask questions that are relevant to me. If they are not relevant to anyone else so be it. But I don't just post to see my posting numbers raise.

I do use the Search function, and I HAVE read all the posts up to the 100th page so forgive me is I am a bit behind the curve with some of my questions, I haven't got back to 2013 yet, but I'm working on it.

Happy New Year one and all, may your Model A days all be sunny.

[zzlegend]

So,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,how is everyone's New Year going so far? Hope yours is better than Mariah Carey's trainwreck performance. I think she dropped the ball.

[steve s]

I've been using the auto-advance for 9 years and it works great, I set my timing with the advance lever down three clicks, so if I'm suddenly pulling a grade and don't want to downshift, I can retard the spark a bit to avoid/stop the spark knock. I've got a little setscrew block on the click plate to prevent over advancing. Basically, my setup allows me to serve as a human vacuum brake on the centrifugal advance.

The only downside is that if you need to pull the distributor for some reason, the shaft falls down into the valve chamber, and you must remove the valve chamber cover to reassemble the mechanism when re-installing the distributor. That's an extra aggravation if you've got an oil filter mounted on the valve cover. If I had it to do over, I think I would get one of the new distributors with the traditional spring-controlled advance built in.

[emf]

Before I bought my auto advance, I thought of getting one of the new distributors as well. The downside was a modern looking distributor that would tip off observers that there might be aftermarket parts on the car.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by emf

Before I bought my auto advance, I thought of getting one of the new distributors as well. The downside was a modern looking distributor that would tip off observers that there might be aftermarket parts on the car.

Get an FS Zipper. Original look, electronics inside.

[JohnLaVoy]

The tool works very well! We have a couple one for the trouble truck on the summer tours and one for the shop. The advance unit we have and did an article on it, works very well it is a copy of one that was done when the Model A was new. We did several tests and their unit is smooth and does an excellent job, we will be installing it on a car in the next few months.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

Works for a starting point. But need to still dial in a little closer. Wishing All "A" Happy Model "A" New Year.

I agree with this and also Happy New Year!

[mike657894]

I use the tool. I go about 10 degrees advanced of where the tool lines up. or one width of the rotor tab.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

Have you tried the search function? These items are not new. They have been around for years. There have been numerous inquiries in the past.
Here's one to get you started. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...7506&showall=1

Here is one on the wrench;

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45813

[Ruth]

Just curious, when using this very special wrench does it matter which distributor cam you have? Model A vs B vs Stipe vs ?? Do all cams open the points at the same precise place in relation to the cam notch altho they have various durations?

[zzlegend]

Good question Ruth. I will let the experts respond. But for me, I just ordered a B cam from a vendor and ordering a Stipe cam today and will give them both a try on a motor that I am freshening up. I have the nurex tool in my tool box that some one gave me, but I still time the old fashion way since I am a geezer. A 6 volt bulb, 2 pieces of wire 12" long, 2 alligator clips, and a half inch wrench for the timing pin. Just my 3 1/2 cents.

[ericr]

if you loosen the cam, how does rotating it remove lash, since the lash comes from the
slop in the distributor shaft and gearing that drives it?

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by ericr

if you loosen the cam, how does rotating it remove lash, since the lash comes from the
slop in the distributor shaft and gearing that drives it?

Your supposed to keep the cam screw snug so when u rotate the tool the backlash is removed. Other than the poor fit this is another large variable that makes setting the timing wih it not right on the money.