Pulled my spare engine apart for inspection

[Art Newland]

This is really a continuation of this thread;
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195689

[Art Newland]

All the pistons have slight scuff marks but rings look hardly used, all cylinders still show slight honing marks.

[Art Newland]

The wrist-pins look/feel great and the rod bearing look fantastic. All have a single thick .035 and one very thin (didn't measure) shim on each side.

[Art Newland]

The valves all look to be freshly lapped. Clearences are a loose .017 (.018 won't slide in) on the exhaust and loose .015 on 2 intakes .016 on the other 2. Close enough I think.

[Art Newland]

The crank looks very good, the rods look .020 under and the mains look .025 under. I have no way to measure how straight it is, but all the journals are round within a couple thou and my ability to measure accurately. The timing gear has nice squared off teeth. The slinger is a little bent, I should be able to straighten it out pretty good.

[Art Newland]

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The front two main bearings look very nice but but the rear looks a little less professionally done. In the block, it looks like maybe some "bubbles in the babbitt? The thrust surfaces look very nice, .003 clearance. I hope to plastigauge it all today. The mains have a total of .0075 shims on either side of the caps.

[Art Newland]

The cam gear looks new, is it a good one or not?

[tbirdtbird]

the machinist must have decided the rear main bearing did not need much oil by creating that drain groove in the cap. Did the cap have the drain tube?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd fill in the misguided "machinist" extra oil drain trough. Fill it with good babbit material and scrap it to fit.

I can't tell if you have the macerated cam gear, or the laminated cam gear. You should be OK with the stronger laminated gear, but if it's macerated, now would be a good time to install an aluminum gear.

[VFRhugh]

My latest engine had the same groove cut in the rear main cap. I had all three repoured and finished to stock specs by Bill Barlow.
Hugh

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I'd fill in the misguided "machinist" extra oil drain trough. Fill it with good babbit material and scrap it to fit.

I can't tell if you have the macerated cam gear, or the laminated cam gear. You should be OK with the stronger laminated gear, but if it's macerated, now would be a good time to install an aluminum gear.

I don't see any layers...

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

the machinist must have decided the rear main bearing did not need much oil by creating that drain groove in the cap. Did the cap have the drain tube?

Yes, the drain tube is there. Found info in the "trench" here;
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25530

[Art Newland]

BTW, I hope Les forgives me for using him for a shelf... 8^)

[Tom Wesenberg]

That looks like the stronger gear, not the macerated one, so it should be OK.

If the crank gear has any nicks or light rust from setting, then polish it up before running the engine.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

That looks like the stronger gear, not the macerated one, so it should be OK.

If the crank gear has any nicks or light rust from setting, then polish it up before running the engine.

OK, the crank gear looks very good but I'll take a better look.

Any thoughts about assembly lube?

[goodoldvic]

Redline assembly lube is good, Lucas oil stabilizer is good , Cam lube is also good as is STP. I would use motor oil when slipping the pistons and rings into the bore. Good luck

[Art Newland]

Did clean up the crank gear, some surface rust.
All mains checked .0015 shimmed as is. Not going to mess with the babbitt at this time. Hopefully this will hold up while I have my original engine rebuilt.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Smear some grease on the cam lobes to be sure they have lube at start up time. I also grease the cam gear.

[Art Newland]

Will do. I did hone the cylinders as well, the rings don't look to have any time on them. Busy tomorrow, I hope to get the pistons back in and rod clearances tested Friday.

[Tom Wesenberg]

After honing how did you clean the cylinders?
I like to spray them with gas from my syphon sprayer, then oil them and wipe them with a clean white paper towel, then repeat until the paper towels come out clean.

[rer_239]

do you plan to have the bare block "dipped" to clean out the water passages?

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

After honing how did you clean the cylinders?
I like to spray them with gas from my syphon sprayer, then oil them and wipe them with a clean white paper towel, then repeat until the paper towels come out clean.

I'm working in your average two car attached garage with a gas water heater, so spraying gasoline around really isn't an option. I ran the hone with the engine crank pulley pointed up, cylinders slightly tilted down to keep the gunk from running into the crankcase, then flipped with cylinders pointed down I hosed in some WD-40 and wiped down with heavy (blue) shop style paper towels. Will have to do...

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by rer_239

do you plan to have the bare block "dipped" to clean out the water passages?

No bare block planned for this engine in the near future. This engine has obviously had some attention and the water jacket has been "worked over" some. I might take another crack at it with an old speedo cable in a drill before I put the head on. I'm hoping to run this engine on a stand and will flush it out well then.

[Art Newland]

Just wanted to share a quick video of how easy and smooth the crank is turning. All I really did was clean things up and added a little assembly lube from CRC. All the mains had 4 shims totaling .0075 each side, the front had three on one side and one on the other where-as the others had two on each side. So when I checked the clearance I moved one over so it had two on each side like the others... just seemed logical. Anyway the clearance was spot on and it turns smooth as a fresh jar of Skippy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edUw...ature=youtu.be

[goodoldvic]

I'd scrub the cylinder walls with dish washing detergent and wipe till clean on a white paper towel then W-D40 or oil the bores, this gets all that junk outta the crosshatch

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by goodoldvic

I'd scrub the cylinder walls with dish washing detergent and wipe till clean on a white paper towel then W-D40 or oil the bores, this gets all that junk outta the crosshatch

Ditto, and you'll be surprised at how much junk will be lifted by the WD-40 or engine oil in the cylinders.

[old28]

Two Ditto, same system I used on my race motors for years.

[Art Newland]

I couldn't ignore a double-ditto. 8^)
All cleaned out with hot water and detergent, then wd40, then slathered with oil and pistons back in.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I'm working in your average two car attached garage with a gas water heater, so spraying gasoline around really isn't an option. ...

Using diesel instead of gasoline will mitigate some of those problems.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Using diesel instead of gasoline will mitigate some of those problems.

Would still get me in trouble with the "big boss" however... (stinky)

All the rods measured .0015 except #4, came in at .002. I removed the skinny shim and that put it on the money!

Speaking of shims, I was speaking with Dick Steinkamp yesterday and he told me to check the thick shim to see if it would separate into thinner ones with a razorblade. He was correct!

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Would still get me in trouble with the "big boss" however... (stinky) ...

My mother could "smell" gasoline even when there was none there

[Art Newland]

I had a problem with my crank gear being improperly marked for timing. See this thread.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=210199
The engine is all torqued and cotter pinned, waiting now for new head studs and nuts.

[forever4]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

The engine is all torqued and cotter pinned, waiting now for new head studs and nuts.

Great! Now be sure and install the head properly.

I also have a few extra Snap-On offset head nut torque wrenches for sale right now if you or anyone is interested.

See these two links:
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/snaponheadwrench.htm

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/brumfieldheadinstructions.htm

[Art Newland]

Installed the timing cover/plunger and spring, I might even get the oilpan on today.

[Art Newland]

I installed the oil pan and front seal as outlined by Tom Wesenberg, that seemed to go smoothly. The head looked to have been freshly re-surfaced, I put a straight edge on it and it looks great. I installed all new studs and the gasket and head aligned really well. I installed my back-up distributor and set the ignition timing. Now I'm trying to dig through my A stuff to find all the bits to get it running. The little plug that covers the hole over the oil-pump doesn't want to thread in... bummer.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I installed the oil pan and front seal as outlined by Tom Wesenberg, that seemed to go smoothly. The head looked to have been freshly re-surfaced, I put a straight edge on it and it looks great. I installed all new studs and the gasket and head aligned really well. I installed my back-up distributor and set the ignition timing. Now I'm trying to dig through my A stuff to find all the bits to get it running. The little plug that covers the hole over the oil-pump doesn't want to thread in... bummer.

That little plug is a pipe thread. While you can do it easily, are you going to paint the engine the proper colors?

[Dick Steinkamp]

Art,
I think I have the tap for that pipe thread. It might be good to remove the pan and pump, however, to insure no metal shavings get in there. I also have a stud for the manifolds if you are missing one.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by CarlG

My mother could "smell" gasoline even when there was none there

My wife's the same way. But I have to agree, ethanol does not smell as nice as gasoline.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Someone may have used a bolt to hold the pump, and that would mess up the threads. You could buy a square head 1/8" pipe plug and use a wrench to run it in straight to straighten the threads, then use the correct slotted plug. You might need a touch of Permatex on the threads if they were messed up by a bolt.

[Art Newland]

If that's 1/8" NPT I probably have a tap also. I had one of those brass fittings with the screw down the middle, used to hold the oil pump for oil pan removal, it threads in pretty good, about three full turns. The repro plug's second thread in, is really flat looking, I think that's most of my trouble. I'll try cleaning it up with a small three corner file and see how it goes. According to Bratton's web site the plug for the vacuum wiper connection is the same size, I've got an old intake down under my bench (somewhere) that I think has a plug in it, I'll try that also. As far as painting goes… probably not, but maybe! It will get run first. If there aren’t any hidden nasty surprises it will go in the car, I’ll put a few miles on it and if all goes OK I’ll start looking for someone to rebuild my original engine. It would need to significantly warm up here to paint it. But hey, you never know.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I'll try cleaning it up with a small three corner file and see how it goes.

FYI, There are "Thread Files" available. https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools...ds=thread+file I have used thread files to save a lot of old bolts...

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you run a tap into the hole be sure to put grease on the tap so it catches any shavings. I would also run a pencil magnet into the hole after the tap, to be sure all shavings come out.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If you run a tap into the hole be sure to put grease on the tap so it catches any shavings. I would also run a pencil magnet into the hole after the tap, to be sure all shavings come out.

Sounds like good advice!
No tapping was needed however, the vacuum plug threaded right in, just a junk repro part I think. Per Dick's suggestion, I bought a brass plug from the plumbing selection at my local hardware store. Added a tiny dab of permatex and it threaded in fine.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

just a junk repro part I think.

Must of been from Mac's

[Art Newland]

Found my old manifold mounting hardware, my spare oil return tube needs a little love...

[Kurt in NJ]

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The earlier ones were soldered, the later ones brazed

[Art Newland]

Thanks for the info, looks like this one is soldered, and there aren't any spot weld marks. It's a very tight fit on to the tube, do you think some permatex would seal it up? I suppose I could solder it back together, I'd think the semi-flexible permatex might make a better fix? When I bought the engine, it came with a "rebuilt" water-pump. I really had not taken a good look at it until today. It turns very stiff... I tried installing it in the head but I could tell the shaft was hitting inside the head/cooling jacket. I started looking around for info on rebuilding water-pumps and there is a thick plastic/delrin spacer between the housing and impeller. I don't see that on any exploded view or rebuild kit? The impeller is definitely used, the shaft looks new, also appears to be a sealed ball bearing in the snout. The shaft won't easily pull through the bearings for dis-assembly, I'll try a little force tomorrow.

[Tom Wesenberg]

You can grind the rear end of the shaft just enough to clear the head without the gasket in place.

[DaWizard]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

You can grind the rear end of the shaft just enough to clear the head without the gasket in place.

Just make sure you get that shaft out of the housings, it looks like a shaft I got with a rebuild to Leakless water pump. I had to use a cut-off wheel, and that generated a great deal of heat, enough that it would melt down any seal around it.

The impeller that was attached to that shaft had a pin in it, yours looks like it is a press fit, I don't see a pin.

[Art Newland]

The impeller is pinned, just don't see it in the pictures. Working on the oil return tube for the time being. You can really see the solder now that it's cleaned up.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

The impeller is pinned, just don't see it in the pictures. Working on the oil return tube for the time being. You can really see the solder now that it's cleaned up.

Easy fix if you bolt it in place without the gaskets, then use a propane torch and some good solder. I have better luck with electrical solder than acid core or lead free solder.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

The impeller is pinned, just don't see it in the pictures. Working on the oil return tube for the time being. You can really see the solder now that it's cleaned up.

I wouldn't trust solder there. I suggest you clean it off and secure the drain tube with a spot or two of weld. What happened to the threads in the cap??

[DaWizard]

I have found that using any of the solders if you tin it first, you can put a drip or 2 of muriatic(sp) acid at the joint, slip the two together and apply heat and they will seal up nicely. Just be very sparing on the tinning, like wire brush the excess solder off as there isn't much room for globs of solder. And IF you want, after the two pieces are together and heated, another drop of solder will ensure the joint.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I wouldn't trust solder there. I suggest you clean it off and secure the drain tube with a spot or two of weld. What happened to the threads in the cap??

Threads in the cap?

[Art Newland]

I do believe I will attempt to re-solder, got the rest of it all cleaned up.

[Mitch//pa]

if all else fails, Brattons are reproducing these now

[tbirdtbird]

Art use a wet rag on the good end as a heat sink so you don't end up loosening that up

[katy]

Easy fix if you bolt it in place without the gaskets, then use a propane torch and some good solder. I have better luck with electrical solder than acid core or lead free solder.

If you do it that way, put a piece of sheet metal between the pipe parts and the engine. This will protect the paint on the valve cover and the block.

[Art Newland]

Plan is to bolt it to the engine to make sure alignment is correct, then screw it down to a piece of wood.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would solder it while bolted to the engine, but use a thin metal piece to protect the engine paint. If you screw it to a piece of wood, remember that you will have to make a raised end, as the two ends aren't in the same plane.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would solder it while bolted to the engine, but use a thin metal piece to protect the engine paint. If you screw it to a piece of wood, remember that you will have to make a raised end, as the two ends aren't in the same plane.

I did end up bolting it on to the engine and soldering it in place. I hadn't realized how far out of line the two cupped ends really are. I used silver bearing solder and flux for potable plumbing. It didn't flow as well as I'd hoped, but it came out OK. It seems very strong.

[James Rogers]

Art, I am going to go out on a limb here and say your engine will probably be a leaker. The reason is the groove to the front of the rear bearing. This groove is not necessary and will let combustion gasses and piston pressures to force oil to the rear of the bearing and overwhelm the slinger and return tube causing the well to leak into the flywheel. If it does, you can call me and I will tell you how to remedy this problem. I would post it but it may be controversial and I don't want to cause trouble on the board, I can tell you and you can convey the message.

[tbirdtbird]

quality soldering job, Art; it flowed nicely

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by James Rogers

Art, I am going to go out on a limb here and say your engine will probably be a leaker. The reason is the groove to the front of the rear bearing. This groove is not necessary and will let combustion gasses and piston pressures to force oil to the rear of the bearing and overwhelm the slinger and return tube causing the well to leak into the flywheel. If it does, you can call me and I will tell you how to remedy this problem. I would post it but it may be controversial and I don't want to cause trouble on the board, I can tell you and you can convey the message.

I don't like the fact that groove is there, I'm sure someone must have thought it was a good idea, I've gone this far I might as well see what will happen. I could always have the main cap re-babbitted I suppose. Even though I plan to run this on a stand, I know that will not tell the whole story. I can't imagine a lot of crankcase pressure with the large opening at the filler tube but under heavy load maybe, especially until the rings seat. My old engine leaks too, if it's not horrendous, still might get me by while I have the original gone through.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

quality soldering job, Art; it flowed nicely

Thanks tbird, it will either hold or not! If it doesn't, I'll do something else.

[Synchro909]

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Originally Posted by forever4

I still have a couple nice welded and brazed tubes (non-dented) which were redi-stripped and epoxy primed for sale, for people who don't want to repair their own swiss watch.

My web page shows similar cleaned parts prior to epoxy e-coat coating.

p.s.
There are no threads in the cap, except in certain locations in Australia apparently. Same place they use the #4 cylinder valve positions to time the engine.

When Art referred to the oil return tube, I thought he was talking about the return pipe on the rear main bearing cap.
Using the valves on #4 to get TDC on #1 is a system as old as 4 cylinder engines used around the world, except your place apparently. I'll explain it to you again in a PM if you like.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I don't like the fact that groove is there, I'm sure someone must have thought it was a good idea, I've gone this far I might as well see what will happen. I could always have the main cap re-babbitted I suppose. Even though I plan to run this on a stand, I know that will not tell the whole story. I can't imagine a lot of crankcase pressure with the large opening at the filler tube but under heavy load maybe, especially until the rings seat. My old engine leaks too, if it's not horrendous, still might get me by while I have the original gone through.

No need to rebabbitt. It can be fixed quite easily in your shop. You would be surprised how little pressure it takes to make one leak horrendously.

[Art Newland]

My engine made the trip to the test stand today...

[PatrickGrant]

Wishing you the best start up of all and thanks for this thread Art.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by PatrickGrant

Wishing you the best start up of all and thanks for this thread Art.

Thanks Pat, it's getting to the exciting part! Going to pick up an old exhaust system today. Only 16F this morning! Needs to warm up to our normal 40F.

[Art Newland]

Tomorrow is D-DAY!

[jm29henry]

Good luck I'm betting she's going to run great!

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by jm29henry

Good luck I'm betting she's going to run great!

Fingers crossed! I'm pretty sure it will run, the starter is untested, I moved manifolds/carb from my running engine so they are a known good quantity. I can always pull the starter if I have to. Worries are unseen cracks/waterleaks...

[Art Newland]

Here's the setup, need a better fuel line arrangement.

[Art Newland]

This is the third run, was getting hot just about to shut it down. I have some video start to finish that I need to look through and edit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEdXISGwGac

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Here's the setup, need a better fuel line arrangement.

Just a word on using the jumper cables.. many look beefy but when you cut open the thick covering youll find the cable is puny.. they are designed to assist starting using another cars battery..
just mentioning in-case you get a slow crank...

[Synchro909]

Art, I bet you had a smile a mile wide when it fired and ran.
I noticed that you don't have a clutch fitted. Normally, the final balance of the crankshaft is done with flywheel and pressure plate fitted. What are your plans here?

[CarlG]

Just my own thoughts, but I certainly wouldn't be running MY engine without coolant of some sort, even for a short while.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Just a word on using the jumper cables.. many look beefy but when you cut open the thick covering youll find the cable is puny.. they are designed to assist starting using another cars battery..
just mentioning in-case you get a slow crank...

If you look close, you'll see there is a battery cable in there as well. It's a 12 volt one... all I had on hand. The engine was very tight and we had a very slow crank so we paralleled it with the jumper and it helped a lot.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Just my own thoughts, but I certainly wouldn't be running MY engine without coolant of some sort, even for a short while.

He had the lower inlet blocked so maybe he backfilled the block with water..that being said i agree you have to be very careful

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Just my own thoughts, but I certainly wouldn't be running MY engine without coolant of some sort, even for a short while.

Was full of water.
I used an infrared thermometer and let it run until it hit 160-165 F.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Art, I bet you had a smile a mile wide when it fired and ran.
I noticed that you don't have a clutch fitted. Normally, the final balance of the crankshaft is done with flywheel and pressure plate fitted. What are your plans here?

That flywheel cover and flywheel won't go in the car, I'll use the ones that are in the car now, although I have to admit that the one on the test engine looks really good, no heat checking that I can see. I have a new clutch and pressure plate to go in as well. My plan is to run all that on the stand, I'll play with "clocking" the flywheel and pressure plate to get the smoothest run.

[Art Newland]

Dick just sent me a link to some video he took of the 1st and 2nd startups.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ul8-IzIZ8kA

[C26Pinelake]

with 42 of your own posts on this thread you had time to rebuild the engine yourself ( lol ) ! Wayne

[Art Newland]

It was run about 25 minutes total today, I want to let it completely cool down then I'll re-torque the head. So far there had been not a drop of oil leak out of the pan... Only bad thing so far is the head has a pin-hole leak right through that casting .75 inch above head gasket. There is a pretty good divot from rust right in that spot. Probably a good candidate for a JB Weld patch... or maybe a new 5.5 head?

[Mitch//pa]

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Personally i wouldnt have run it that much with no rad... temp gun or no temp gun....dont take it personally thats just my opinion. Put a head on it ..dont play with putty or half ass fixes again JMO..
It wouldnt take much to set a rad onto it , then you can really run it long / test

[Dick Steinkamp]

For those of us without a lot of spare A parts, and that don't anticipate needing to test several A engines, I've used hose couplings to the inlet and outlet and run water in from a hose bib. The thermostat keeps the engine at operating temp for longer tests. On an A with no stat, you can regulate the water flow to do the same.

Here's an aluminum 215 Buick I did this way recently...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jBGMO50Kjc

[C26Pinelake]

My teacher says " no rad, no run "! You certainly are taking your chances. Wayne

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by C26Pinelake

with 42 of your own posts on this thread you had time to rebuild the engine yourself ( lol ) ! Wayne

5775 posts... hmmmm

I like to share what I am learning, hopefully others may learn something too. It does take a little extra effort to photograph/video this stuff but I enjoy it. Even if it doesn't turn out well, it's learning never-the-less.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

For those of us without a lot of spare A parts, and that don't anticipate needing to test several A engines, I've used hose couplings to the inlet and outlet and run water in from a hose bib. The thermostat keeps the engine at operating temp for longer tests. On an A with no stat, you can regulate the water flow to do the same.

Here's an aluminum 215 Buick I did this way recently...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jBGMO50Kjc

With alll due respect your not going to keep the block and head / heads full and prevent hot spots internally with a 5/8th garden hose using house pressure... use a fire hydrant with a fire hose then were talking...
this is my last comment on this

Art your motor sounds great on the video enjoy

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

With alll due respect your not going to keep the block and head / heads full and prevent hot spots internally with a 5/8th garden hose using house pressure...
this is my last comment on this

Art your motor sounds great on the video enjoy

I've run several motors this way for quite a while. I check all areas often with my laser thermometer. No hot spots.

Sorry this method hasn't worked for you. It could be we are doing it differently is some regard.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

That flywheel cover and flywheel won't go in the car, I'll use the ones that are in the car now, although I have to admit that the one on the test engine looks really good, no heat checking that I can see. I have a new clutch and pressure plate to go in as well. My plan is to run all that on the stand, I'll play with "clocking" the flywheel and pressure plate to get the smoothest run.

So neither the flywheel not the pressure plate will be balanced on the crank when it goes into a car? You might get lucky.
As for JB weld over that hole in the head, I imagine standard heads are very cheap over there and plentiful. I'd go that way or as you say, a new 5.5 head. A friend of mine over here had a crack in the water jacket of his motor. He soldered it up with ordinary 50/50 lead/tin solder. The trick was getting the cast iron tinned.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

With alll due respect your not going to keep the block and head / heads full and prevent hot spots internally with a 5/8th garden hose using house pressure...
this is my last comment on this

Art your motor sounds great on the video enjoy

What can I say, I'm a shade tree mechanic! Maybe I'll find an old usable radiator some day, wouldn't be tough to weld up a bracket, if you look at the front of my engine stand, you'll see some metal on the front, that was put there just for that possibility. Would be fun to have it setup with a generator on it as well. I try to seek out good information, but in the end I really like to see for myself. I really like for folks to see that if they wanted to do some of this kind of work, it's possible.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

What can I say, I'm a shade tree mechanic! Maybe I'll find an old usable radiator some day, wouldn't be tough to weld up a bracket, if you look at the front of my engine stand, you'll see some metal on the front, that was put there just for that possibility. Would be fun to have it setup with a generator on it as well. I try to seek out good information, but in the end I really like to see for myself. I really like for folks to see that if they wanted to do some of this kind of work, it's possible.

You could easily set up a modern plastic radiator to it .. they cost around 89.00 new

And then when ur done with it return it

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

So neither the flywheel not the pressure plate will be balanced on the crank when it goes into a car? You might get lucky.
As for JB weld over that hole in the head, I imagine standard heads are very cheap over there and plentiful. I'd go that way or as you say, a new 5.5 head. A friend of mine over here had a crack in the water jacket of his motor. He soldered it up with ordinary 50/50 lead/tin solder. The trick was getting the cast iron tinned.

There is already a flywheel and clutch in the car, that works AOK. Now true it won't be balanced as a crank/flywheel/pressure plate assembly to this engine, I'll get it as close as I can. Remember, this is a engine to get me by while the original gets rebuilt, I'll have the flywheel/pressure plate balanced on that engine.

Well, good Model A heads are hard to find. Dick and I went searching for his, we dug through a pile of 10-15 heads and found only one that didn't have the cracking between cooling jacket holes. I am pretty good at soldering and silver brazing, maybe I'll give it a try.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

...

And then when ur done with it return it

Like wearing the dress to the prom and then returning it on Monday morning?

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

You could easily set up a modern plastic radiator to it .. they cost around 89.00 new

And then when ur done with it return it

Actually that's a good idea, not the returning part but something from a junkyard maybe. I wonder what might have similar hose size and spacing?

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Like wearing the dress to the prom and then returning it on Monday morning?

I have family that work for Costco, you wouldn't believe how many big screen TVs come back after the super Bowl.

[old Tom]

Didn't they used to say to wash the cylinders with hot soap and water after honing?

[Art Newland]

Here is a picture of the weeping spot in the head.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by old Tom

Didn't they used to say to wash the cylinders with hot soap and water after honing?

That's what Tom W. told me to do... so I did!

[Mitch//pa]

65 Ford Mustang 289 v-8

[1955cj5]

We had a 1917 Titan IH tractor on the ranch, hadn't run in years, but all it had for a radiator was a 30 or so gallon tank of water. It was a longitudinal flat 2 cyl with a huge bore and stroke.

You could probably do the same and the tank would take a loooong time to reach 160° or 180° using a thermostat.

[CarlG]

When our club built an engine test stand, we gleaned all sorts of parts from our members. Someone donated a used Model A radiator that had some leaks and really didn't look good enough to be in a car. Fixed the leaks ourselves. Perfect for it's use. We managed to get all the accessories including flywheel, starter, generator, carb, dizzy, etc. Even have a bell housing that we use just for safety sake.

[Towd56]

Nice thread. Thanks for taking the time to document your efforts. I'm in the middle of a similar project. Good luck with it

[1crosscut]

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Originally Posted by Art Newland

Here is a picture of the weeping spot in the head.

Since these are not a pressurized system consider this simple fix.
Clean the area well. Cut a piece of cotton cloth (tee shirt material would be fine) a bit larger than the hole. Saturate the cloth with silicone caulk and smooth it over the hole. Drain the water first . I've patched a whole lot of things this way and have had excellent success. Silicone can take a lot of heat and a water cooled head will never come close to affecting it negatively.
Heck if for some reason it doesn't work you can wire brush it off in a matter of minutes.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If that leak is from a rust pit, there's most likely hundreds of more rust pits getting ready to open up. I'd buy a 5.5 head for it, or for less money there are good used heads around.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Since you are putting this motor in your car just temporarily, maybe put the head that is on your current engine on this one, and get the 5.5 for your current engine when it is rebuilt.

[C26Pinelake]

[[/B]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

5775 posts... hmmmm

I like to share what I am learning, hopefully others may learn something too. It does take a little extra effort to photograph/video this stuff but I enjoy it. Even if it doesn't turn out well, it's learning never-the-less.

You missed the ( lol ) obviously, it was a joke. Wayne

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by C26Pinelake

[[/B]

You missed the ( lol ) obviously, it was a joke. Wayne

No problem Wayne, you might want to throw a "smilie" in there now and then.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If that leak is from a rust pit, there's most likely hundreds of more rust pits getting ready to open up. I'd buy a 5.5 head for it, or for less money there are good used heads around.

Unfortunately the entire engine has signs of pitting on the outside, what have I got to lose by trying JB weld? I've read of all kinds of water jacket freezing repairs here on the Barn. Would be an interesting experiment if nothing else. I'll look for another head, see if I can find something.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

Since you are putting this motor in your car just temporarily, maybe put the head that is on your current engine on this one, and get the 5.5 for your current engine when it is rebuilt.

That's a good idea.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

No problem Wayne, you might want to throw a "smilie" in there now and then.

[B]No problem Art, :

[Art Newland]

Here is a video, mostly just three old guys hovering around an even older engine trying to get her to roar to life.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4J6xPvcaA68&t=76s

[Art Newland]

Fired it up this morning, started right up except for me over-choking it.

Ran a compression test while it was warm, mostly looking for consistency at this time, as the rings will take some time to seat. Between 50-52 in all cylinders, would be nice to get in to the 60's + after it breaks in. Oil is clear, so other than the drippy head I think it can go in the car. Still no sign of any oil on the floor, big test will be getting it on the road.

Thanks to all that provided good information and constructive criticism. I'll probably be installing it in the car very soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ibo8TyKMEWo

[Big hammer]

Art sounding good :-) I see only one problem ----- you three guys should have been in my neighborhood running your motor! That would have been four older guys having some fun!

[jm29henry]

I am really happy for you a job well done congressional

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

Art sounding good :-) I see only one problem ----- you three guys should have been in my neighborhood running your motor! That would have been four older guys having some fun!

I did get a few strange looks from the neighbors, but that's not unusual.
Re-torqued the head, each bolt took about an eighth turn.

[C26Pinelake]

Congratulations! Now that you have an excellent spare the original motor will never break down! Wayne

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If that leak is from a rust pit, there's most likely hundreds of more rust pits getting ready to open up. I'd buy a 5.5 head for it, or for less money there are good used heads around.

Tom, you must be psychic. Started to clean it up, and a big chunk fell out!

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by C26Pinelake

Congratulations! Now that you have an excellent spare the original motor will never break down! Wayne

Isn't that the truth. I was recently given an engine that has been a club member's "spare" for ~40 years. He said it came with his car and has been sitting in his garage all this time.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Tom, you must be psychic. Started to clean it up, and a big chunk fell out!

That would make a good cutaway display item.

Should be easy to cut with most of the metal rusted away.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

That would make a good cutaway display item.

Should be easy to cut with most of the metal rusted away.

Yea, yea, rub it in!

Going to pick up another head this morning. $25 bucks can't get hurt too bad.

[Art Newland]

Brumfield head installed, started right up. Seems to run about the same, sounds the same to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UABt...ature=youtu.be

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Brumfield head installed, started right up. Seems to run about the same, sounds the same to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UABt...ature=youtu.be

Did the compression come up?

[Art Newland]

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Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

Did the compression come up?

Probably.

I'll re-torque in the morning, run it again and check the compression while it's warm.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Yea, yea, rub it in!

Going to pick up another head this morning. $25 bucks can't get hurt too bad.

If this is that $25 head, you sure got lucky.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If this is that $25 head, you sure got lucky.

Yep, $25 bucks. He had several stock heads too. He knew it was a high compression head, I even remarked to him that a Synders 5.5 was $300. And asked if he was sure he wanted to part with it. A stock head would have been fine with me, but since he didn't care I thought it would be an interesting experiment to try it out. It certainly didn't fit down over the studs as well as the one I pulled off, and the distributor seems to set a wee bit higher making the spark-plug wires seem a tad too short. I took a peek at the honing marks in the cylinders while I had the head off, they are still there for the most part but you can tell it is wearing in. He has a Fordor for sale for $5000 too if anyone's interested. A pretty complete car that does run and drive.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

Did the compression come up?

CHA-CHING! Maybe a little more with some run time on it?

76,75,75,75.