Engine Hard To Start Question

[Bob Grieb]

You said I could ask dumb questions so here is my first one.

I have tried to get the engine of a 1930 Model A to run and have had little success.

I have only had the vehicle a few weeks and in that time I have had the Zenieth carburetor rebuilt and verified that the plugs are producing a spark. I replaced the condenser and set the points. I checked the compression and it is low (50,40, 50, 35). I set the timing by verifying the postion of the distributer when # 1 cylinder was a TDC. When I attempt to start the engine it is difficult to start and when I get it started it may run 20 seconds then stops.

I returned the carburetor to the rebuilder once because it was leaking fuel. I was told the float was faulty and it was repaired.

I am not sure where to look next to resolve the problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Thanks

Bob

[tuneman]

I would disconect the fuel line from the carb. Have the fuel lever turned on and blow hard into the fuel line to see if sediment is cloging the fuel valve. Hook it back up and see what happens!

[howie123]

I am fairly new to the Model A hobby but I will share some words of wisdom that were once shared with me. " Ninety percent of all carburetor problems are in the ignition". Maybe go back and check the timing again step by step. Also make sure spark lever works and is properly set. Just keep at it with a methodical approach and you will get it.

[RichPA]

Pull the plugs. If they are wet, they may be fouled from the carb problem, if dry you may not be getting fuel. These engines dont need much choke, you should open the choke on about the first revolution of the crank. If choked too much it will be flooded and possibly have fouled plugs.

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

You said I could ask dumb questions so here is my first one.

I have tried to get the engine of a 1930 Model A to run and have had little success.

I have only had the vehicle a few weeks and in that time I have had the Zenieth carburetor rebuilt and verified that the plugs are producing a spark. I replaced the condenser and set the points. I checked the compression and it is low (50,40, 50, 35). I set the timing by verifying the postion of the distributer when # 1 cylinder was a TDC. When I attempt to start the engine it is difficult to start and when I get it started it may run 20 seconds then stops.

I returned the carburetor to the rebuilder once because it was leaking fuel. I was told the float was faulty and it was repaired.

I am not sure where to look next to resolve the problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Thanks

Bob

Did anyone teach you how to start a Model A? Retard the spark all the way up. Advance the throttle a little. Where is your GAV set? The GAV is adjusted by turning the choke rod. Close it all the way and then back out 1 turn. Hit the starter and in the next instance pull the choke out and then back in ASAP. It should start when the choke goes back in.

IMHO check the timing with a timing light. You can buy a timing indicator for $10 to mount by the crank pulley. When I checked with a timing light, my timing was off by 20 degrees vs the manual method. When I set the timing correct, no problems with starting and none with overheating either.

If you still can only run for 20 seconds after the above, you aren't getting gas to the carburetor.

[IrishHills]

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I'm new to model a's too, found one thing for sure, the timing has to be right! have you read this?
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm

[Bob Grieb]

Thanks for all the responses. I believe I am getting fuel as I have checked for restrictions. I did learn the starting method by watching a YouTube video. It agrees with what you described and I believe I am executing it as described.

I have a timing light but I am not sure how to use it on a Model A. Can you elaborate on the method I should use for using the timing light.

I am not sure what you mean by the term "IMHO"

Thanks for the help!

Bob

[Stillrunners]

positive grounded.....or does it matter to anyone....

[Bob Grieb]

Thanks for the information
Model 'A' Ignition Timing - Making It Right

I need to sit down this evening and digest it. One point that I failed to mention is that the distributer has a moderm cap. I think it may be difficult to determine proper position but I will give it a try in the morning.

Thanks for your help

Bob

[RichPA]

"In My Honest Opinion"

[metalho]

Originally Posted by mrtexas

Did anyone teach you how to start a Model A? Retard the spark all the way up. Advance the throttle a little. Where is your GAV set? The GAV is adjusted by turning the choke rod. Close it all the way and then back out 1 turn. Hit the starter and in the next instance pull the choke out and then back in ASAP. It should start when the choke goes back in.

IMHO check the timing with a timing light. You can buy a timing indicator for $10 to mount by the crank pulley. When I checked with a timing light, my timing was off by 20 degrees vs the manual method. When I set the timing correct, no problems with starting and none with overheating either.

If you still can only run for 20 seconds after the above, you aren't getting gas to the carburetor.

BIG TIME DITTO ON THE CHOKE. Its getting colder out. Good luck.

[randy randolph]

theres a good chanch your sucking air at the manifold

[pat in Santa Cruz]

[QUOTE=Bob Grieb;110690]Thanks for the information
Model 'A' Ignition Timing - Making It Right

I need to sit down this evening and digest it. One point that I failed to mention is that the distributer has a moderm cap. I think it may be difficult to determine proper position but I will give it a try in the morning."

ok, with a modern cap you can get the wires crossed. Timing order is 1-2-4-3. #1 terminal is at 4 o'clock as you face it from the passenger side. The rotor rotates counter clockwise. Forget timing it with a light for now. The most certain method is at marco's site, linked in a post above. Be sure the rotor turns as the engine turns.

[snowbird06]

Just a thought. If it runs for only about 20 seconds I would check to see if the gas cap is vented properly. Sometimes the cork sealing gasket swells up and covers the small vent holes in the cap. I had this on my car. If this is the case just trim back the gasket slightly near the smll vent holes to fully expose the 2 holes. It is also possible that the cap is a unvented aftermarket replacement....Snowbird06

[Jack '29 Sport Coupe]

If it runs for a few seconds and then stops perhaps the ferrules on the
fuel line are jammed in too far, thus preventing the gas to flow. remove
the lines where they go into the carburator and the sediment bowl and
see how far down the line they go. The tapered ferrule should be about
an 1/8th. of an inch from the end of the line on both ends.

Jack

[Mitch//pa]

[Bob Grieb]

Thanks for all the information you folks have provided. As soon as it warms up this morning I am going to make another push to get it started using all of the pointers provided. After reading the article on timing I am going to start there then move through the list.
Thanks
Bob

[V4F]

timing , timing , timing ................ steve

[Mike V. Florida]

I've run engines with only starter fluid. Might want to try it to see if you can get it to run for a minute or two.

[Larry Seemann]

Have you taken the gas line loose from the carb and turned on the fuel valve to see if you have fuel flow? I've seen after market fuel valves that worked opposite of original - handle vertical was off. And, of course, there is always the possibility of an obstruction.

[Dennis L Oberer]

Email me for a step by step on what to do when the engine wont run. It was published recently in the Restorer.

Dennis L Oberer
Green Bay WI

[Bob Grieb]

Still not running – I spent most of the morning working on the timing. I replaced the points and condenser then went thru the steps outlined in "Model A Ignition Timing – Making It Right". I verified that there was spark at the points at the completion of the timing procedure. The engine is still difficult to start and keep running but the short time that it is running it appears to be smother than before the timing was adjusted. It seems to run longer if I choke the engine. I am suspecting the carburetor but I am at a loss as to what to check. I had the carburetor rebuilt just a week ago.

Does anyone have any other suggestion?

I appreciate the help.

Thanks

Bob

[Bob Grieb]

I have verified fuel flow from the tank to the carburetor.

Thanks for the help

Bob

[Mitch//pa]

did you read through the pages i posted?

[johnbuckley]

When it stops are you getting a good spark at the plugs and coil-to-distributor king lead? How long d'you have to wait before it'll restart.? Try runnining it with cap off gas tank to elinimate non vented cap( see previous suggestion-it's caught me out before). What's the fuel like when you run it out of the fuel pipe? Let it flow freely for several minutes ( into a fuel can - expensive stuff)?

[Bob Grieb]

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Mitch

I'm a little embarrased. When I received your post yesterday I only saw the cartoon and the first page. In looking back to your post and moving the curser is I see I missed the other part of your post. I am on my way back to read it in it's entirety. Thanks Bob

[Bob Grieb]

I just went out and tried to see if there was spark from the coil wire to ground by opening and closing the points with the ignition. I do have spark from the coil wire to ground (Yellow/blue but I am also getting a spark from the coil to one of the two terminals on the coil itself. Could that mean a defective coil?

[tuneman]

bob
that sounds like a cracked coil! are you saying the coil is arcing from the center to the posts?
If so its shorting out!

[Bob Grieb]

tuneman
Thats what I am seeing. I could hear it earlier in the daylight when I set the timing but I didn't see it until this evening. That could be part of my starting problems.

[Mitch//pa]

i have been getting some pm's about getting copy's of post # 16 on this thread. here are some easy steps to print it out and make your own book.

right click on each page one at a time
then click save picture as
this will put it in your "my picture" folder
you can then print out each page from your"my pictures" on your computer
remember there are 16 PAGES which you have to do separately

OR try this maybe faster

You can also click and drag to select the entire booklet, ctrl c to copy - open a word doc. and then ctrl v to paste it into the doc. and it will come out with all the pages separate.

[IrishHills]

Bob, I always check the coil by turning over the motor until the points are closed, then with the key on, pull the coil wire from the distributor cap holding it close to a ground, then open and close the points with your thumb, should have a nice blue spark atleast a 1/4 to 1/2" every time you open and close the points, if so, coil is good.

edit: should have read your post better, (cracked coil)

[Bob Grieb]

IrishHills

I did exactly what you said and I got a yellow/blue spark from the coil to ground but at the same time I get a spark at the coil to a low voltage terminal

Bob

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

IrishHills

I did exactly what you said and I got a yellow/blue spark from the coil to ground but at the same time I get a spark at the coil to a low voltage terminal

Bob

make sure it is a good clean ground and test again. if its not a good ground that can cause the spark to back out somewhere else. also you can mist the area where you saw the spark with a spray bottle of water very lightly. that will help induce any spark leakage

[RichPA]

See if that spark is jumping between coil terminals went its cranking and not starting. If so , the coil is bad. If not I think you have a very good spark and you have a fuel issue.When you are testing spark with a wide gap you are maxing out the coil and it will spark anywhere it can.You may also have high resistance in the coil wire causing that stray spark.

[Bob Grieb]

Thanks for the recent thoughts regarding sparking. I will retest in the morning and see what happens. I never thought I would have problems getting the engine to start and run. I am learnig as I go.

Thanks

Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Are you getting sparks jumping to the primary terminal when you hold the coil wire 1/4" from ground? You could space the gap to 1/2" to see how the spark looks, but it's not good to go much farther with the coil wire and it's never good to disconnect a spark plug when checking cylinders for power. Instead you should short the plug to ground by using a screwdriver. Any time there is an open in the secondary coil circuit the spark will seek the easiest path to ground, and that is by way of the primary terminal or an internal short in the coil. Once a carbon path is burned in the coil tower, then it's much easier for the spark to follow the same path, especially when the spark plugs need the most voltage, like flooring the throttle.

[Bob Grieb]

This morning I reconnected the high voltage wire from the coil back to the distributor and the shorting that had occurred at the coil is no longer an issue when cranking the engine. I am assuming that the coil is not and issue and that spark to the plugs is not an issue which makes me suspect the carburetor. I had it rebuilt but I have doubts about it. Do you have an opinion?

Thanks

Bob

[IrishHills]

Like said above, make sure your plugs are not wet, there was a post here about a newly rebuilt motor that they tried everything to get it running and it was just that. Maybe blow them off good with compressed air.

[Bob Grieb]

The plugs are not new but I did clean them and regap them and they do show spark when the engine is cranking. I have been told that the engine does not require a lot of choking however when I do get the engine to catch and run for a few seconds the application of the choke half way open helps keep the engine running longer.

[IrishHills]

I'm out of idea's, you are using fresh gas, right?

[Bob Grieb]

I am using fresh gas and I have verified good flow to the carburetor. I know little about the carburetor. I had it rebuilt and had to return in once because the float had a pin hole in it. I am thinking that the spark is not the issue.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

The plugs are not new but I did clean them and regap them and they do show spark when the engine is cranking. I have been told that the engine does not require a lot of choking however when I do get the engine to catch and run for a few seconds the application of the choke half way open helps keep the engine running longer.

this sounds like a fuel problem...carb, fuel flow, leaky manifold, stuck valves, etc

since you are in Temecula, which has a club with around 90 members, it would probably be easier with some hands on help, which might be easy to get with a phone call. Try a proven good carburetor and see how that works. Did you do a compression check?

[MCHinson]

If holding the choke half way out allows it to run longer, that certainly points to a fuel problem.

I would look for, in no particular order, really bad fuel, no air flow into the tank due to a clogged or missing gas cap vent, a rust clogged or bad fuel shut off valve, a clogged fuel line, a clogged sediment bulb, clogged carburetor jets, or some other carburetor problem.

[Bob Grieb]

Pat

After posting as a Newbie and receiveing the recommendation to get involved in a Model A Club I went on line and got the information and I am going to attend my first Model A meeting this coming Tuesday.

Thanks

Bob

[MCHinson]

I would suspect that if you contact the local club, you will easily find someone who will stop by and help you get the problem solved. Years ago, I had someone from my local club stop by and help me with a problem. These days, I am one of the guys who stops by and helps others when they have problems.

[mrtexas]

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Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

Thanks for all the responses. I believe I am getting fuel as I have checked for restrictions. I did learn the starting method by watching a YouTube video. It agrees with what you described and I believe I am executing it as described.

I have a timing light but I am not sure how to use it on a Model A. Can you elaborate on the method I should use for using the timing light.

I am not sure what you mean by the term "IMHO"

Thanks for the help!

Bob

Here is a picture of the timing scale you can buy from the Model A parts houses for $10. If your A is still 6v, use a 12v battery to hook the timing light up to and put the inductive pickup on the #1 spark plug wire. If you can keep the engine running, this will check the timing. My timing was off by 20degrees using the manual when I checked it with the timing light.

[Bob Grieb]

Thanks

I will get the timing scale. I need to get it to run first. Hopefully soon.

Bob

[bogdonj]

Ok Bob, I was the poster of the thread mentioned above about our A not running just like what you have mentioned. I have tried everything for weeks to get the thing running. I ended up taking it back to our rebuilder and he took the spark plug leads off the distributor and cranked it over and success it started right up. Our rebuilt carb was the issue. For some reason it was always running rich even when the adjustment was turned off and it was fouling our plugs. Not 1 but all 4 at the same time. Here is a video of it starting with the spark plug leads off. Try this and see if she will run!!!! It sure shocked me and I was lost for words. Just because it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was rebuilt right or working right. Give it a try and let me know! Before trying this take your plugs out and make sure they are dry and clean.


https://www.youtube.com/user/bogdonav.../3/NquVJtQCOo4 --Video


My post regarding NO START
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16974



Justin

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by bogdonj

Ok Bob, I was the poster of the thread mentioned above about our A not running just like what you have mentioned. I have tried everything for weeks to get the thing running. I ended up taking it back to our rebuilder and he took the spark plug leads off the distributor and cranked it over and success it started right up. Our rebuilt carb was the issue. For some reason it was always running rich even when the adjustment was turned off and it was fouling our plugs. Not 1 but all 4 at the same time. Here is a video of it starting with the spark plug leads off. Try this and see if she will run!!!! It sure shocked me and I was lost for words. Just because it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was rebuilt right or working right. Give it a try and let me know! Before trying this take your plugs out and make sure they are dry and clean.


https://www.youtube.com/user/bogdonav.../3/NquVJtQCOo4 --Video


My post regarding NO START
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16974



Justin

My neighbor's small engine wouldn't start until I removed the spark plug and heated the center electrode good and hot with a propane torch, then it fired right up.

[jimvette59]

Check the timing specs. for the dissy with a MODERN cap. My thought the idle circuit in the carburetor is clogged.

[smurph]

If it starts to die give it a quick pull of the choke. You may have to this two or three times till everything gets working smoothly. This method works foir me!

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

Pat

After posting as a Newbie and receiveing the recommendation to get involved in a Model A Club I went on line and got the information and I am going to attend my first Model A meeting this coming Tuesday.

Thanks

Bob

don't be afraid to call someone before tuesday who is listed on the club website as the contact. ... just introduce yourself as a newbie having trouble with your first A.

if they don't have the time, they'll give you someone's number who just might. It is the weekend, and Model A folks are quite generous with their help. Someone in your area might be bored and need to get out of the house. I suspect the "rebuilt" carburetor has some issues. Its easier for you to install another that is known to work to eliminate or confirm the carb as the problem than it will be to diagnose the carburetor.

[Bob Grieb]

Thanks for the advice Pat. Iam going to a tractor auction tomorrow so iwill contact someone early Monday morning. I agree it would be simpler to put a known good carburetor on the engine rather than trying to find an issue with he present carb

Bob

[Bob Grieb]

I spent most of the afternoon trying to get the A to run with little success. I retimed it and toward the end or the day I noticed that the spark at the plugs is intermitent. It appears that when I first turn the engine ove I have spark but within a few seconds the spark disappears. Does that sound possible?

If I chose to by a new coil do i have to get one specific to the Model A or is a 6 volt coil a six volt coil.

Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

I spent most of the afternoon trying to get the A to run with little success. I retimed it and toward the end or the day I noticed that the spark at the plugs is intermitent. It appears that when I first turn the engine ove I have spark but within a few seconds the spark disappears. Does that sound possible?

If I chose to by a new coil do i have to get one specific to the Model A or is a 6 volt coil a six volt coil.

Bob

Doesn't sound like a coil problem to me. I had intermitent spark a few years ago and it turned out to be the ignition switch. The repro switch didn't have a firm OFF-ON click to it. The contacts were barely touching. I took the switch apart and fixed it.

[Mitch//pa]

take a simple 12volt test light and see if your losing power to the coil when you lose spark.

[Mitch//pa]

here is a diagram if you need it

[Tom Wesenberg]

Also take a jumper wire, remove the instument panel screws, and jump across the ignition switch if it's a repro. See if that doesn't help.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Also take a jumper wire, remove the instument panel screws, and jump across the ignition switch if it's a repro. See if that doesn't help.

i had to do that on the side of the road once. thats why i always carry my test light and a piece of wire...

[Dennis L Oberer]

Sounds like it is the coil, ignition switch, battery, or the condensor.

Dennis L Oberer
Green Bay WI

[Bob Grieb]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

take a simple 12volt test light and see if your losing power to the coil when you lose spark.

I will try this this morning. I did jump the ignition switch yesterday and it made no difference. I know that the ampmeter is not working so I will try jump it this morning as well.

I am begining to lose sleep over this problem.

Thanks for all the help and ideas

Bob

[IrishHills]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

I am begining to lose sleep over this problem.

Thanks for all the help and ideas

Bob

I hear you Bob, also might check the wire under the dist plate that goes to the points, I had one gounding out. Also I would pickup a model a cap, wires, and rotor (cheap) makes timing easier and looks like a model a.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

I will try this this morning. I did jump the ignition switch yesterday and it made no difference. I know that the ampmeter is not working so I will try jump it this morning as well.

I am begining to lose sleep over this problem.

Thanks for all the help and ideas

Bob

The easiest way to jump the amp guage is to just jump across the two wingnuts on the terminal box cover. Of course, the connections under the terminal box lid still must be clean and tight for this jump to work.

[Bob Grieb]

I do not think you are going to believe this but after trying all the suggestions related to spark and having no success I opened the carburetor. You may remember that I had it rebuilt and had returned it once and was I told that the float had a leak. When I opened it this morning I found that the venturi was broke into two pieces and when reassembling the halves they double gasketed the mating surfaces and applied a blob of silicon on the two halves in hope of sealing the venture. Needless to say the silicon was not gas resistant and I have little pieces of silicon floating in the carburetor, not to mention that the venturi is non functional.

I have contacted the rebuilder this morning and he has been apologetic and vowed to get back to me in the next few hours.

&#^%)@##*

[Tom Wesenberg]

Except for the 1928 double venturi, they are cheap and there's no reason to try to use a broken one. I'd rebuild it yourself. That way you know what you have.

[JoeWay]

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Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

[...and I have little pieces of silicon floating in the carburetor...

...and, no doubt, plugging jets and passages and leading to fuel starvation.

Joe

[Mitch//pa]

okaydoki,

well look at it this way you learned alot and you may sleep tonight.

[Bob Grieb]

The effort was not in vain as I now know something about the electrical system and something about a certain carburetor rebuilder.

Thanks to everyone who helped me with the lesson.

Bob

[bogdonj]

yayaaa told ya you would get it mastered. So I guess the saying sticks... Just because it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was rebuilt right!!!

[Bob Grieb]

Originally Posted by bogdonj

yayaaa told ya you would get it mastered. So I guess the saying sticks... Just because it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was rebuilt right!!!

Now how could I argue with that logic?

[1931 flamingo]

Good for you and your tenacity. Big question: are we running yet? Let us know. I've learned a lot from this thread.
Paul in CT

[Bob Grieb]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Good for you and your tenacity. Big question: are we running yet? Let us know. I've learned a lot from this thread.
Paul in CT

Paul - I am not running yet as I have need of a carburetor. I contacted the rebuilder and they were very apologetic and I am shipping the unit back to them but I am trying to get another core that I plan to rebuild myself.

Thanks

Bob

[Bob Grieb]

A friend came by today with the carburetor off his Model A. My engine was hard to start but it did start and run. The only problem was that it did not accelerate well. When I depress the accelerater it tends to bog down. At least I know the engine will run. Now I need to resolve the accelaration issue. My carburetor should be back early next week and I can continue my project of getting the engine to run. In the meantime I am lookig for another Zenieth core so I can rebuild it myself.

I will keep you posted. Thanks for all the help thus far

Bob

[tuneman]

Sounds like it is too retarded. Did you remember to pull the advance lever down?

[Bob Grieb]

Originally Posted by tuneman

Sounds like it is too retarded. Did you remember to pull the advance lever down?

Thanks - I did try that and the engine smoothed out and the RPM increased but it still bogged down when I tried to accelerate.

Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Do you have the carb book that Steve Pargetter wrote? It has lots of good information for anyone wanting to work on the carb, and it's very reasonably priced.

[IrishHills]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

Thanks - I did try that and the engine smoothed out and the RPM increased but it still bogged down when I tried to accelerate.

Bob

Did you play with the fuel mixture?

[Bob Grieb]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Do you have the carb book that Steve Pargetter wrote? It has lots of good information for anyone wanting to work on the carb, and it's very reasonably priced.

I do not have that book. I will have to look for it. Any idea where I can find it?

Thanks

Bob

[Bob Grieb]

Originally Posted by IrishHills

Did you play with the fuel mixture?

I did but I am not sure it had any effect. Possibly because I am not sure what to do. I started it at about one turn from bottom and move it back and forth about 1/2 turn in both directions. It had little effect.

The engine sounded great and it did not smoke.

I have found and purchased a compression gage that will fit the 7/8 diameter plug hole. I will get it later this week

[IrishHills]

On mine it will bog if it's open to much.

[Dennis L Oberer]

Dont forget to post your vacuum and compression readings here once you take them.

I wont tune up an A engine without them.

If you dont have rather equal compression and correct vacuum it is IMPOSSIBLE to get the engine running, idling, accelerating correctly.

Lots of "hung up" or "too little gap" valves have been found using these two gauges.


Dennis L Oberer
Green Bay WI

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Bob Grieb

I do not have that book. I will have to look for it. Any idea where I can find it?

Thanks

Bob

I know Bratton's and Mac's list it and I'm sure Bert's and Snyder's would also have it.

Do you have these parts vendor's catalogs?

[Bob Grieb]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I know Bratton's and Mac's list it and I'm sure Bert's and Snyder's would also have it.

Do you have these parts vendor's catalogs?

I do have the catalogs and will look for the book this morning

Thanks

Bob

[rob mcdonald]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

This "What to do if the Model A stops" is great! Where do I get a copy?

[Bob Grieb]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i have been getting some pm's about getting copy's of post # 16 on this thread. here are some easy steps to print it out and make your own book.

right click on each page one at a time
then click save picture as
this will put it in your "my picture" folder
you can then print out each page from your"my pictures" on your computer
remember there are 16 PAGES which you have to do separately

OR try this maybe faster

You can also click and drag to select the entire booklet, ctrl c to copy - open a word doc. and then ctrl v to paste it into the doc. and it will come out with all the pages separate.

Mitch posted this and it works for me. I have a folder that I saved them to.

I also like the information

Bob

[Bob Grieb]

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I had the engine running today (with a borrowed Carburetor) but not for long. It was hard to start but once I got it running it sounded fine. It ran for about ten minutes. I checked the vacuum reading and it was 17 with a wavering needle in the range of 2 inches. After a while it quit running and I could not get it to restart. After it cooled I took compression readings on cylinder1 going to 4. I had readings of 68,48,50,50.

I am beginning to suspect the coil. Do you have an input about the coil as a source of my problem?

Thanks

Bob

[1929blindback]

I don't know if you've stated bob but how are your plugs? Did you check your gap when you took them out?