sparks around spark plugs...

[Tom Wesenberg]

Try running a ground wire from the condenser ground screw to a good ground on the engine. A good clip lead will do.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

This is like a "SUSPENSE DRAMA", now we have twiddle our paws for a whole WEEK! You know, to a Dog, that's equal to 56 DAYS! If only Ol' Whatzhis name, (My pet Man) would get that TRAP runnin' maybe I could endure the wait? Buster T.

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by robw

Ran it in the dark again... light show is almost gone... only appears at high revolutions and is not nearly as bright as before. Nothing by the coil. One small blue spark between the armored cable and the retard lever, which is almost impossible to see... but it is there. The other part of the light show is at the spark plugs... very faint, but the spark creates an illusion of the spark plugs being transparent.

At any rate... it is still there, so I've still got something not right. I'm done for this weekend... back on it next weekend.

rob

Wow. Real head scratcher.

OK, a new clue emerged in your last post. You shouldn't see a spark "through" the spark plugs. Since the inside of the plugs is a solid metal conductor, the spark should travel along it and not be illuminating through the ceramic. It sounds like severely corroded plugs now. Since you know how to do conductivity testing, what is the resistance from the top of the plug to the center electrode inside the plug (where the spark jumps while inside the motor)? Should be 0 ohms.

[Mike V. Florida]

How old are the points? I don't mean how long since you installed them but rather do you know when they were bought new?

I ask because a couple of years ago I remember owners complaining of missing at high RPM and the problem turned out to be week spring holding the points to the cam. as the speed increased the points would no longer ride on the cam and bounce so as not to close each time.

A shot in the dark, I know.

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

How old are the points? I don't mean how long since you installed them but rather do you know when they were bought new?

I ask because a couple of years ago I remember owners complaining of missing at high RPM and the problem turned out to be week spring holding the points to the cam. as the speed increased the points would no longer ride on the cam and bounce so as not to close each time.

A shot in the dark, I know.

Yes, that's a real good point. However, that wouldn't explain the "light show" he's experiencing.

[Mike V. Florida]

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Originally Posted by P.S.

Yes, that's a real good point. However, that wouldn't explain the "light show" he's experiencing.

He did say in his original post "suddenly the engine was running lean... rough running, and it would backfire if I revved the engine."
That's why I thought of the points bouncing. Is it the problem? I don't know just trying to help.

[tbirdtbird]

You obv still have HV leaking to ground and you are aware of it. Under the circumstances all your eval must now be done in the dark to truly know what is going on.

You've pulled the plugs and cleaned them incl the porcelain and they still bypass voltage to ground. And the coil wire is "new" but some ignition wire is junk, so beware of that. I've had 'new' ign wire leak spark like crazy. 10,000 volts is a lot to hold back.

Charlie Kettering was a genious when he designed the L-C circuit which we have come to know as a points- based system. He knew what he was doing and how to get the voltages needed to jump a gap, and he put the earlier magneto systems out of business. And he was untouched for nearly 100 yrs until electronic ignition was born. Too bad he worked for GM and not Ford.

Since this started with a cleaning, I am gonna suggest you install a new set of plugs and get a length of ultra modern silicone coil wire at least for the time being.

Porcelain under a microscope looks like cinder block (cement block)...meaning very porous. I think the pores are contaminated beyond cleaning.

The grounding discussion is interesting but 10,000 volts will find its way to ground, never worry about that

Tom is very correct about the formation of carbon tracking on plastic and bakelite (the first plastic) parts such as dizzy caps. Once it forms it will always return to the same place no matter how well you clean it. The part must be replaced. Not sure this is your problem right now, just wanted to second Tom.

[James Rogers]

You need to change the plugs. Don't clean them, change them to new. You shouldn't have sparks around the plugs. Not only is it making your engine run bad but in some cases it is dangerous.

[robw]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

This is like a "SUSPENSE DRAMA", now we have twiddle our paws for a whole WEEK! You know, to a Dog, that's equal to 56 DAYS! If only Ol' Whatzhis name, (My pet Man) would get that TRAP runnin' maybe I could endure the wait? Buster T.

Dang it... I never wanted to be a drama queen!

Originally Posted by P.S.

Wow. Real head scratcher.

OK, a new clue emerged in your last post. You shouldn't see a spark "through" the spark plugs. Since the inside of the plugs is a solid metal conductor, the spark should travel along it and not be illuminating through the ceramic. It sounds like severely corroded plugs now. Since you know how to do conductivity testing, what is the resistance from the top of the plug to the center electrode inside the plug (where the spark jumps while inside the motor)? Should be 0 ohms.

It could be an illusion... with the spark travelling along the outside of the insulator... looks kinda cool actually. I'll check the resistance just to see what I've got.

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

How old are the points? I don't mean how long since you installed them but rather do you know when they were bought new?

I ask because a couple of years ago I remember owners complaining of missing at high RPM and the problem turned out to be week spring holding the points to the cam. as the speed increased the points would no longer ride on the cam and bounce so as not to close each time.

A shot in the dark, I know.

Just bought the points last week... spring seems strong enough.

Originally Posted by James Rogers

You need to change the plugs. Don't clean them, change them to new. You shouldn't have sparks around the plugs. Not only is it making your engine run bad but in some cases it is dangerous.

Yeah, I'd come to the same conclusion... just can't run down to Autozone and pick up a set though... will have to order them.

Back at it next week...

rob

[QGolden]

I agree with the plug change. Iff'n yours are old their may be very small porous cracks in the porcelain. When you cleaned them you could have pushed enough material into the cracks to create a path to ground. I do not think this is a fuel issue, unless there is another chapter to the story regarding the carburetor. The problem started when you cleaned the engine. Something changed at that time. Choking the carb to make it run better is a red herring.

Sounds like a good problem to run a contest around....

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by robw

Dang it... I never wanted to be a drama queen!



It could be an illusion... with the spark travelling along the outside of the insulator... looks kinda cool actually. I'll check the resistance just to see what I've got.



Just bought the points last week... spring seems strong enough.



Yeah, I'd come to the same conclusion... just can't run down to Autozone and pick up a set though... will have to order them.

Back at it next week...

rob

Why? Most auto parts keep W16Y or W18Y on the shelf.

[kwisor]

hello
what is the differance in the w16y and the w18y and what is best to use
kevin
1930 mo9del a tudor
1923 model t roadster p/u

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by kwisor

hello
what is the differance in the w16y and the w18y and what is best to use
kevin
1930 mo9del a tudor
1923 model t roadster p/u

Temperature range. I use the W18Y because they are a bit hotter.

[Patrick L.]

I agree, I would think the local auto store should have the correct sparklers including 3076 or 3077 Autolite. The 3077 being a tad hotter than the 3076 just like the W18 is hotter than the W16 and I prefer the hotter. I prefer Autolite to Champion in just about any application, but, thats just my opinion. The Champions certainly look better though.

[James Rogers]

Might even find some TT10's.

[robw]

Originally Posted by James Rogers

Why? Most auto parts keep W16Y or W18Y on the shelf.

Hmmm... my local ones (autozone, advance auto) don't for some reason.

[1931 flamingo]

Try NAPA..................
Paul in CT

[James Rogers]

Nobody around there owns an N series tractor? Try a local n on chain auto parts.

[midgetracer]

N series tractor has a plug that is way smaller than a model A. It is the same as a 40 or so flathead Ford.

[robw]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Try NAPA..................
Paul in CT

Napa it is! Not in stock, but in a warehouse somewhere nearby... Of course I'm in PA this week, which makes it easier... somehow I think there are more uses for this type plug around here compared to Northern VA...