The Ford Barn

gwhite · 04-03-2013, 06:06 PM

Good luck! Don't give up & keep us posted!!

Tom Wesenberg · 04-03-2013, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrod937

So I'm still holding out hope that I can get the great running leaky A motor up and running with this maybe.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/se...A-6334&x=0&y=0

In the mean time I have a line on a counterweight diamond "C" motor and some babbitt guys. I plan on trying to get this leaky motor up and running while building a hot street banger..

That's the one. Be sure to save the aluminum part you remove so you can reinstall it if you ever get this block rebabbitted.

pat in Santa Cruz · 04-03-2013, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrod937

So I'm still holding out hope that I can get the great running leaky A motor up and running with this maybe.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/se...A-6334&x=0&y=0

I was going to suggest that.

In the mean time I have a line on a counterweight diamond "C" motor and some babbitt guys. I plan on trying to get this leaky motor up and running while building a hot street banger..

BTW, there is no "C" motor that resembles an A or B in any way. Old guys tale is all it is. see this:
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/modelcmyth.htm

modern rods for inserts, inserts, and the machine work to install them on A or B blocks are available from Rich Falluca at Antique Engine Rebuilding:

http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/

hotrod937 · 04-04-2013, 05:08 PM

Well I got the cap off. I don't know what I'm looking at. Looks like there's a flat round "slinger on there and no seal. The cap doesn't have a hole for oil to drain down the tube. Should it?

Dune Country · 04-04-2013, 05:22 PM

with all of that blue rtv you want to check you oil passages especially the crank,
don't ask.

Tom Wesenberg · 04-04-2013, 06:00 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you look at the oil collection groove in the rear of the cap, you should see the horizontal hole that leads to the down tube. You might try blowing into the end of the tube and see if you feel the air coming out the groove.

George Miller · 04-04-2013, 06:08 PM

You can see in the picture there is a big gap in the thrust. must be 1/8 end play. You will never stop the leak until you fix the end play. You can get a bronze thrust from the parts suppliers, that might fix it.

darrylkmc · 04-04-2013, 07:01 PM

hotrod937

The rear bearing shown in the photo has a half moon shaped crack about the center at the front edge, you can see the drain tube below it.

It may also have at least two more at the back end, one about the center line, and another in the upper left of your photo from the back end towards your oil groove, both longitudinal.

Darryl in Fairbanks

James Rogers · 04-04-2013, 07:17 PM

I feel like I have made my point about the bronze junk but I don't believe even if it would work like it is advertized that is too much gap for even it to fix. I have never seen one worn like that. Were there any shims between the cap and block? If no you have nothing to adjust the bearing with except to sand the parting line surface on the cap and that will soon destroy it. Even if you sand it and get the top and bottom right the sides won't be close and it will still leak. Looks to me like that one is a great candidate for a new set of bearings. Sometimes things are just too worn out to make do with. You need a local to help with the assessment of this problem.

Duffy1 · 04-04-2013, 08:13 PM

Ditto James ; That rear main babbit is in bad shape.

dumb person · 04-05-2013, 12:42 AM

This is one of those times where i agree with the others. That bearing looks like it would be fine for some old mans farm truck that only gets used to fetch firewood or go fishing once a month but for a road going car it looks a bit tired.

hotrod937 · 04-08-2013, 03:05 PM

I got the bronze thrust cap today. I'm not seeing where or how it goes in. Could someone direct me please on where to put this thing?

hotrod937 · 04-08-2013, 03:07 PM

Do I machine off the thrust part of the bearing? Does it fit in the round pocket where the oil drain tube comes out and need to be machined for the oil drain cast in the center of the round pocket?

James Rogers · 04-08-2013, 03:12 PM

The thrust goes in the block in place of the aluminum seal. You have to remove the babbitt in the top of the block to get it in. Once you get the babbitt off and that thing won't work, you will for sure have to have a set of bearings. You are in a lose/lose situation but, live and learn.
BTW,You will have to remove all the rods and the mains and pull the crank to get it in. Lots of work for nothing.

hotrod937 · 04-08-2013, 03:43 PM

Cool. Got some plastigauge to check the clearance Clarance. Looks like I'm taking it down. So I torque the head to 55#'s. What are the specs on the mains and rods?

James Rogers · 04-08-2013, 04:15 PM

Rods-40#
Mains-80#

Richard Wilson · 04-08-2013, 04:53 PM

James.....You can lead them to water but you can't make them drink.

RUNNERBUN · 04-08-2013, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gold Digger

I see a lot of silicone gasket sealer has been used. Has anyone besides me had problems with that stuff plugging the oil pump screens up and running engines?

Yes, you're not the only one. It was a very expensive mistake. I still like the stuff but use it very sparingly and with a lot care.

dumb person · 04-08-2013, 05:38 PM

Good luck installing the bronze thing, i never tried it myself. Everyone thinks it might be a short term fix but it is only until you get a better one or that one you have now rebuilt, right? Should work out until then.

hotrod937 · 04-08-2013, 06:03 PM

Thanks James. I understand that this probably won't work. I give it a 20% chance. It would be one thing if I had a cherry A that I had to pull the motor out of but I've already got the motor out and apart so I'm gonna spend a little time and effort and give it a shot. I'm told by guys here to try the bronze and I'm told buy guys to stay away. I know my babbitt is in not the best shape. My end game plan is to build a motor all the way. My situation doesn't allow me to drop 4 grand on what the end game has in store. This is something that will have to be done over time.

I'm sick with anything that has a motor and wheels. Some of the rides in the shop now are a 1945 Jeep, a 97 Jeep TJ going one tons, 94 YJ, 1929 Tudor AV8, 1969 Camaro, 1979 Trans Am, 55 Chevy Gasser 1965 Triumph TR4, 72 TR6, 74 CB450 cafe build, cb360 cafe build, xs650 hard tail build and more. As you can see I'm on a mission to bang out these cars in (easy to get running order). I don't want another long term project and I'm hype to get this A roadster running and driving now.

04-03-2013, 06:06 PM	#41
gwhite Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Texas: Where Bob Wills is still the king! Posts: 354	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Good luck! Don't give up & keep us posted!!

04-04-2013, 05:08 PM	#44
hotrod937 Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 61	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Well I got the cap off. I don't know what I'm looking at. Looks like there's a flat round "slinger on there and no seal. The cap doesn't have a hole for oil to drain down the tube. Should it?

04-04-2013, 05:22 PM	#45
Dune Country Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Winchester Bay OR Posts: 93	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work with all of that blue rtv you want to check you oil passages especially the crank, don't ask.

04-04-2013, 06:00 PM	#46
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If you look at the oil collection groove in the rear of the cap, you should see the horizontal hole that leads to the down tube. You might try blowing into the end of the tube and see if you feel the air coming out the groove.

04-04-2013, 06:08 PM	#47
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work You can see in the picture there is a big gap in the thrust. must be 1/8 end play. You will never stop the leak until you fix the end play. You can get a bronze thrust from the parts suppliers, that might fix it.

04-04-2013, 07:01 PM	#48
darrylkmc Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska Posts: 767	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work hotrod937 The rear bearing shown in the photo has a half moon shaped crack about the center at the front edge, you can see the drain tube below it. It may also have at least two more at the back end, one about the center line, and another in the upper left of your photo from the back end towards your oil groove, both longitudinal. Darryl in Fairbanks

04-04-2013, 07:17 PM	#49
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work I feel like I have made my point about the bronze junk but I don't believe even if it would work like it is advertized that is too much gap for even it to fix. I have never seen one worn like that. Were there any shims between the cap and block? If no you have nothing to adjust the bearing with except to sand the parting line surface on the cap and that will soon destroy it. Even if you sand it and get the top and bottom right the sides won't be close and it will still leak. Looks to me like that one is a great candidate for a new set of bearings. Sometimes things are just too worn out to make do with. You need a local to help with the assessment of this problem. __________________ http://www.model-a-ford-4bangers.com/

04-04-2013, 08:13 PM	#50
Duffy1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mo. City , Texas Posts: 725	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Ditto James ; That rear main babbit is in bad shape.

04-05-2013, 12:42 AM	#51
dumb person Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South pacific island Posts: 1,724	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work This is one of those times where i agree with the others. That bearing looks like it would be fine for some old mans farm truck that only gets used to fetch firewood or go fishing once a month but for a road going car it looks a bit tired. __________________ <Link> This is how we roll<Link> "I'm Convinced that no one really reads posts anymore; they just fabricate what they think the post says then ramble on about red herrings."--Bob Outcasts rules of old cars #1 Fun is imperative, mainstream is overrated #2 If they think it is impossible, prove them wrong #3 If the science says it impossible you are not being creative enough. #4 No shame in recreating something you never had #5 If it were not for the law & physics you would be unstoppable

04-08-2013, 03:05 PM	#52
hotrod937 Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 61	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work I got the bronze thrust cap today. I'm not seeing where or how it goes in. Could someone direct me please on where to put this thing?

04-08-2013, 03:07 PM	#53
hotrod937 Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 61	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Do I machine off the thrust part of the bearing? Does it fit in the round pocket where the oil drain tube comes out and need to be machined for the oil drain cast in the center of the round pocket?

04-08-2013, 03:12 PM	#54
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work The thrust goes in the block in place of the aluminum seal. You have to remove the babbitt in the top of the block to get it in. Once you get the babbitt off and that thing won't work, you will for sure have to have a set of bearings. You are in a lose/lose situation but, live and learn. BTW,You will have to remove all the rods and the mains and pull the crank to get it in. Lots of work for nothing. __________________ http://www.model-a-ford-4bangers.com/

04-08-2013, 03:43 PM	#55
hotrod937 Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 61	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Cool. Got some plastigauge to check the clearance Clarance. Looks like I'm taking it down. So I torque the head to 55#'s. What are the specs on the mains and rods?

04-08-2013, 04:15 PM	#56
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Rods-40# Mains-80# __________________ http://www.model-a-ford-4bangers.com/

04-08-2013, 04:53 PM	#57
Richard Wilson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 908	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work James.....You can lead them to water but you can't make them drink.

04-08-2013, 05:38 PM	#59
dumb person Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South pacific island Posts: 1,724	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Good luck installing the bronze thing, i never tried it myself. Everyone thinks it might be a short term fix but it is only until you get a better one or that one you have now rebuilt, right? Should work out until then. __________________ <Link> This is how we roll<Link> "I'm Convinced that no one really reads posts anymore; they just fabricate what they think the post says then ramble on about red herrings."--Bob Outcasts rules of old cars #1 Fun is imperative, mainstream is overrated #2 If they think it is impossible, prove them wrong #3 If the science says it impossible you are not being creative enough. #4 No shame in recreating something you never had #5 If it were not for the law & physics you would be unstoppable

04-08-2013, 06:03 PM	#60
hotrod937 Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 61	Re: Getting to Know an Old Jalopy Roadster and Making It Work Thanks James. I understand that this probably won't work. I give it a 20% chance. It would be one thing if I had a cherry A that I had to pull the motor out of but I've already got the motor out and apart so I'm gonna spend a little time and effort and give it a shot. I'm told by guys here to try the bronze and I'm told buy guys to stay away. I know my babbitt is in not the best shape. My end game plan is to build a motor all the way. My situation doesn't allow me to drop 4 grand on what the end game has in store. This is something that will have to be done over time. I'm sick with anything that has a motor and wheels. Some of the rides in the shop now are a 1945 Jeep, a 97 Jeep TJ going one tons, 94 YJ, 1929 Tudor AV8, 1969 Camaro, 1979 Trans Am, 55 Chevy Gasser 1965 Triumph TR4, 72 TR6, 74 CB450 cafe build, cb360 cafe build, xs650 hard tail build and more. As you can see I'm on a mission to bang out these cars in (easy to get running order). I don't want another long term project and I'm hype to get this A roadster running and driving now.