Paint info, help needed

[CA Victoria]

I'm planning on painting my A this spring. If my memory sereves me there are a couple of Profssional Painters who frequent the FB. I'm interested in talking to someone to help answer a few questions (over the phone) about paint prep and paint selection.
Thanks!
[email protected]

[Bill in SoCal]

Originally Posted by CA Victoria

I'm interested in talking to someone to help answer a few questions (over the phone) about paint prep and paint selection.
Thanks!
[email protected]

Why not share? I'm interested in painting too. Especially here in California with all the regulations and restrictions. Bill

[luckyal]

I agree with Bill. Please post your questions and help us all. Besides that a call to the professional is a little different than a free web site. If you take him away from his work expect to pay a consulting fee.
Al

[Tinbasher]

Paints my thing. Set-up the post and I'll be glad to Answer your questions.

The Old Tinbasher

[stainless steve]

Ive painted forover 30 years I will chime in :but as a start dont think becuase your doing it yourself doesnt mean you will get buy inexpensively !!!these products are very expensive anymore for QUALITY products .Its all in the prep; paint will only make bad work look worse .

[28ACoupe]

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Ditto on what has been said. I will also chime in as needed.

[Marvin/TN]

I have worked in Auto Collision Repair since 1963 until I retired about 10 years ago. I still keep my hand in it especially when my wife decides the local PO needs to be a drive through lobby. She made an Impala sized hole in a brick wall. But that being said I will help anyway I can so ask away. But CA rules are different than TN rules.

[lance leblanc]

All this expericence and knowledge and no questions being asked?... please allow me to oblige.

Im not at the paint stage of my resto. but admit it is the part that I find myself repeatedly looking forward to.
A final paint scheme has not been decided on for my 29 Tudor but I know that I want to do it myself.
Ive never painted a car before and unless someone offers the use of a paint booth I will be painting in a makeshhift tent in the back yard.
So my first question is general advise for these conditions, what paint should I use and pitfalls should I look out far.
I understand that prep is very important and that timeing is just as important. I would probably need to break the process down to small jobs in order to finish each piece before moving on to the next as I work a full time job. Also my timeline for paint work is July/August, not exactly the least humid months in South Louisiana. (October is maybe the driest but much more windy)
Also just for kicks,
What would other barners think of a faux patina paint job?

[metalho]

Originally Posted by stainless steve

Ive painted forover 30 years I will chime in :but as a start dont think becuase your doing it yourself doesnt mean you will get buy inexpensively !!!these products are very expensive anymore for QUALITY products .Its all in the prep; paint will only make bad work look worse .

Yup. Ive done all my own body work and Ill have over $2000 into just paint by the time I blow on the clear coat.

[Craig Lewis]

Originally Posted by metalho

Yup. Ive done all my own body work and Ill have over $2000 into just paint by the time I blow on the clear coat.

....that's a significant expense to make your Model A too shiny.

[stainless steve]

Originally Posted by Craig Lewis

....that's a significant expense to make your Model A too shiny.

I would have to disagree with you ,if you go through all the work and expense of doing your car whats wrong with putting a quality finnish on the car especially if your a painter;the rose beige I put on my ..A..was only avalible in dupout chroma base at 100 dollars a quart not includeing reducer Ive sprayed it and cleared it sand it to 2000 grit and foam pad polish...shines like glass...Thats my personable prefference;;;to shiney try and get 16,000or 20,000 dollars or more for something with bad paint and bodywork >>most products today have to be cleared

[Craig Lewis]

Originally Posted by stainless steve

I would have to disagree with you ,if you go through all the work and expense of doing your car whats wrong with putting a quality finnish on the car especially if your a painter;the rose beige I put on my ..A..was only avalible in dupout chroma base at 100 dollars a quart not includeing reducer Ive sprayed it and cleared it sand it to 2000 grit and foam pad polish...shines like glass...Thats my personable prefference;;;to shiney try and get 16,000or 20,000 dollars or more for something with bad paint and bodywork >>most products today have to be cleared

What I was referring to is the paint choice on an authentic restoration.

There's nothing wrong with painting a car to (quote) "your personable prefference" and yes I'm sure "shiny sells" to the masses.
I agree that clearcoat offers an easier, more durable & workable finish and probably a sensible choice for many levels of restoration.

In the interest of true restoration, as a person delves deeper into model specific paint guides and tries to mimic the many authentic finishes on original parts, climbing closer and closer to that authentic "look", it seems you finally cross a point when clearcoat appears "silly shiny" and detracts from efforts spent elsewhere.

[lance leblanc]

I pulled this off the HAMB site. I am puzzled by the S.S. wheels on the faux patina paint but otherwise I like it.

Quote:
__________________________________________________ ___________
Originally Posted by ChevyAsylum
Not that I don't like the car, I just find faux patina to be slightly phony. Either its got it or it doesn't.

My Model A may be a POS, but it's a REAL POS.

[Willit Stop]

Tim...Glad to hear that you're not afraid to take on this task yourself.I've been doing body and paint for 30+years in my spare time and wouldn't mind giving advice if needed.As you have read the replies to your post,I'm sure you've noticed that there are different opinions for just about everything related to body and paint.It's personal preference.Nevertheless,most of these guys have experience and are worth listening to.When I painted my 36,I did one panel at a time.Stripped,repaired and painted it.Then placed it in the extra bedroom.About the time the bedroom was full shiny parts,I was down to the body and once that was painted,it was a matter of bolting it all back together.Piece of cake.BTW...I used base/clear. Repairs are easier and it's pretty forgiving. Good luck!

[Purdy Swoft]

Those look like spun aluminum disc hubcaps. They were popular in the fifties and early sixties. The smooth disc reduced wind resistance and were popular in some racing applications but were usually attached to the wheels with screws. My Sept. 29 stripdown had them years ago but I didn't screw them to the Mercury wheels and they spun off and were lost. I always thought that they were WAY COOL. I was gonna use the merc wheels and spun disc hubcaps when I rebuilt it but son in law gave me a set of aluminum wheels that I liked better so I used them. Its all fun!!!

[metalho]

Originally Posted by Craig Lewis

....that's a significant expense to make your Model A too shiny.

The shine wasnt first on the list. Sand blast, epoxy primer, fill primer, sealer, base and clear.

[Mike V. Florida]

Here's what my son was given as it applied to painting an A and he put it on his web site,

http://franksvickie.webs.com/paint.htm

[PetesPonies]

I restore and paint for a living. I do not see how you can have $2000 in paint materials alone in painting a Model A.

[luckyal]

I agree with Petes Ponies. Can you please explain how you can get near to $2000 dollars for just materials ?
Al

[lajones]

I am soon going to repaint, but I do not intend to take the body off. The frame and such was done by a previous owner. Since I will probably just be sanding, what primer or other product should I start with?