The Ford Barn

pat in Santa Cruz · 05-16-2011, 07:17 PM

[/QUOTE] ...Buy the way, removing that org. frt. motor mount by just jacking up the frt. of the eng. and removing the two bolts from the eng. and the one underside is impossible [for me anyway].

[/QUOTE]

remove one rear motor mount to flywheel housing bolt from each side, then you can jack the engine high enough to clear the pulley with the front yoke. not removing the two rear bolts can crack the flywheel housing if you lift the front of the engine much.

Unless your car is a fine point Nov 28 thru Jan 29, replacing the brass washer with3/16ths flat washer might improve it a bit more. That's what Henry did.

RHD · 05-16-2011, 07:21 PM

I have just posted this as below, but it did not appear. Here goes again.

I fitted counterweights to my 30 Phaeton's crankshaft and it was as smooth as silk. The engine, clutch, crankshaft and flywheel were balanced by the engine reconditioner. I installed at the time new rear engine mounts with fresh live rubber. (A repro set.) A lot of vibration can come through the rear mounts as previously said. Fan blade was a new Al repro. I know some engine reconditioners don't take much care with a Model 'A' block as they should do, especially when they know it is not going to travel very fast. Many engines could be balanced a lot better with a little more care and consideration by the engine shop. They all charge enough.

Louis · 05-16-2011, 08:30 PM

Unless your car is a fine point Nov 28 thru Jan 29, replacing the brass washer with3/16ths flat washer might improve it a bit more. That's what Henry did.[/QUOTE]

Pat,are you saying a 3/16ths flat washer would be better then the brass frt. eng. support bushing ?..Is that because it is thiner and would give you more spring on the top two mount springs ?

pat in Santa Cruz · 05-16-2011, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Louis

Unless your car is a fine point Nov 28 thru Jan 29, replacing the brass washer with3/16ths flat washer might improve it a bit more. That's what Henry did.

Pat,are you saying a 3/16ths flat washer would be better then the brass frt. eng. support bushing ?..Is that because it is thiner and would give you more spring on the top two mount springs ?

[/QUOTE]

the bushing fits tight into the cross member hole, somewhat restricting side movement. A flat washer allows that movement without allowing the mount shaft vibrations to be transferred to the cross member through the bushing. I have never tried to compare the two. I just use what Henry did on the appropriate year car. It would be interesting to see if you switch them and find any difference.

Louis · 05-16-2011, 08:57 PM

the bushing fits tight into the cross member hole, somewhat restricting side movement. A flat washer allows that movement without allowing the mount shaft vibrations to be transferred to the cross member through the bushing. I have never tried to compare the two. I just use what Henry did on the appropriate year car. It would be interesting to see if you switch them and find any difference.[/QUOTE]

I might try that later, but I am so pleased with the lower vib. I think I will drive it for a few days, And then try it.
It seems like if you allow the mount shaft to have side movement that the movement might cut into the shaft it's self over time, I don't know?
Any way right now, Im a happy guy

.

pat in Santa Cruz · 05-16-2011, 10:01 PM

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it does not move sideways enough to cut into the shaft, although I have seen some on warped frames that did that. Henry tried that brass bushing for only 2 months then quit for some reason. I assume it was a good one, but it could just have been costs saving. He was a cheap one.

James Rogers · 05-17-2011, 05:03 AM

Try the brass bushing but just flip it over so the smooth side is against the frame. A little grease will help.

05-16-2011, 07:17 PM	#61
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: Vibration [/QUOTE] ...Buy the way, removing that org. frt. motor mount by just jacking up the frt. of the eng. and removing the two bolts from the eng. and the one underside is impossible [for me anyway]. [/QUOTE] remove one rear motor mount to flywheel housing bolt from each side, then you can jack the engine high enough to clear the pulley with the front yoke. not removing the two rear bolts can crack the flywheel housing if you lift the front of the engine much. Unless your car is a fine point Nov 28 thru Jan 29, replacing the brass washer with3/16ths flat washer might improve it a bit more. That's what Henry did. Last edited by pat in Santa Cruz; 05-16-2011 at 07:24 PM. Reason: more info

05-16-2011, 07:21 PM	#62
RHD Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: New Zealand Posts: 665	Re: Vibration I have just posted this as below, but it did not appear. Here goes again. I fitted counterweights to my 30 Phaeton's crankshaft and it was as smooth as silk. The engine, clutch, crankshaft and flywheel were balanced by the engine reconditioner. I installed at the time new rear engine mounts with fresh live rubber. (A repro set.) A lot of vibration can come through the rear mounts as previously said. Fan blade was a new Al repro. I know some engine reconditioners don't take much care with a Model 'A' block as they should do, especially when they know it is not going to travel very fast. Many engines could be balanced a lot better with a little more care and consideration by the engine shop. They all charge enough. __________________ R.H.D. Author of Model 'A' Ford technical manuals. Supplier of good original RHD parts.

05-16-2011, 08:30 PM	#63
Louis Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Marietta GA. Posts: 647	Re: Vibration Unless your car is a fine point Nov 28 thru Jan 29, replacing the brass washer with3/16ths flat washer might improve it a bit more. That's what Henry did.[/QUOTE] Pat,are you saying a 3/16ths flat washer would be better then the brass frt. eng. support bushing ?..Is that because it is thiner and would give you more spring on the top two mount springs ?

05-16-2011, 08:57 PM	#65
Louis Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Marietta GA. Posts: 647	Re: Vibration the bushing fits tight into the cross member hole, somewhat restricting side movement. A flat washer allows that movement without allowing the mount shaft vibrations to be transferred to the cross member through the bushing. I have never tried to compare the two. I just use what Henry did on the appropriate year car. It would be interesting to see if you switch them and find any difference.[/QUOTE] I might try that later, but I am so pleased with the lower vib. I think I will drive it for a few days, And then try it. It seems like if you allow the mount shaft to have side movement that the movement might cut into the shaft it's self over time, I don't know? Any way right now, Im a happy guy .

05-16-2011, 10:01 PM	#66
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: Vibration Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) it does not move sideways enough to cut into the shaft, although I have seen some on warped frames that did that. Henry tried that brass bushing for only 2 months then quit for some reason. I assume it was a good one, but it could just have been costs saving. He was a cheap one.

05-17-2011, 05:03 AM	#67
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: Vibration Try the brass bushing but just flip it over so the smooth side is against the frame. A little grease will help.