Locating dimple on timing gear

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Geez 4 pages for one of the most basic steps to owning an A
Paul in CT

Just think of the size of the book if it was complicated. Thanks Paul

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Geez 4 pages for one of the most basic steps to owning an A
Paul in CT

I agree , timing and points adjustment are two most important things that need to be well understood . Where the rotor tip points is where the spark will be sent . When the points begin to open is when the spark occurs . Factory specs are anywhere from eighteen to twenty two thousands for the points gap . Points gap effects timing . More gap advances , less gap retards !!!

[katy]

I like to drill the dimple a little deeper before installing a replacement timing gear.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by 100IH

Everyone needs to learn a method that is always useful under all circumstances. That means don't rely on the distributor. On a new engine or just after head gasket the dist. has been out and needs to be re-installed in time with the camshaft position so one needs a method that does not rely on the rotor. If the rotor has not been moved, that's OK but often the thin washer underneath dist. cam can get lost leaving the cam able to migrate out of time with eveything else.

If the timing is correct in the first place , the distributor can be removed and replaced without needing to loosen and move the distributor cam as the timing will remain the same . If the distributor cam has been loosened and moved it will be necessary to reset the timing . When the timing pin drops into the dimple on the cam gear , loosen and adjust the distributor cam so that the trailing edge of the rotor tip points at the number one contact in the distributor cap with NO clockwise backlash . Anyone that doesn't understand this doesn't really know how to set the timing . Where the rotor tip points is MOST important . Points gap also matters because the spark happens when the points begin to open . This is one reason it is important to pay attention to the points gap when attempting to set the timing . A person MUST also pay attention to the distributor and where the rotor tip POINTS if they expect the engine to run at all .

[Patrick L.]

And now, we are on the 5th page. [smiley face]

[Purdy Swoft]

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No harm meant pat . If a person posts that where the rotor tip points when setting the timing doesn't matter , this is WAY wrong . Sorry but its hard to resist trying to explain how and why when wrong info is posted . I am trying to give helpful info rather than trying to learn .

[Patrick L.]

Thats why I added the smiley face Purdy.

I understand. I have a hard time resisting too. Your posts are always helpful and accurate.

The response wasn't directed at you. It was an addition to the 4th page comment. This is a heck of a thread on basic 'A' ownership. And now I'm to blame for its continuation especially since I've contributed nothing of use to it [ that I remember anyway].

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Purdy x2 - This is a common subject. For standard stock setting.

1 - Rotor has to point correctly to distributor contact Cylinder 1 at TDC on cylinder 1. This is set by the timing gear timing marks.

Once set never changes unless something major is wrong like a bad timing gear.

2 - Points timing - Gap the points first. Set advance lever to full retard. Set distributor cam so points just open with #1 cylinder at TDC.

TDC cylinder 1 is located with the timing pin in the dimple.

Typically does not change when the distributor is removed and same distributor is put back in the same Model A.

Points timing has to be performed when the cam screw is loosened, or if cam slips, or if new points, or if points/points block wears, or if the upper plate removed/replaced.

[daren007]

Oh good grief how did we put man on the moon. Fully retard spark. Put cyl #1 on TDC compression stroke. With rotor pointing to #1 on distributor body set points to just open with backlash removed. Done.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by daren007

Oh good grief how did we put man on the moon. Fully retard spark. Put cyl #1 on TDC compression stroke. With rotor pointing to #1 on distributor body set points to just open with backlash removed. Done.

Yup, and we now have 90 posts about it !

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Yup, and we now have 90 posts about it !

If you have a spare distributer, time it as the above comments - take your pick! Next remove it and toss it under the seat, when or if you have a dist. failure on the road just retrieve it from under the seat and simply drop it in. No mess or fuss with TDC, rotor position, points position, etc. Post 91 and took longer to type than time it took to change the spare dist!

John

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by aermotor

If you have a spare distributer, time it as the above comments - take your pick! Next remove it and toss it under the seat, when or if you have a dist. failure on the road just retrieve it from under the seat and simply drop it in. No mess or fuss with TDC, rotor position, points position, etc. Post 91 and took longer to type than time it took to change the spare dist!

John

Years ago when folks were talking about how bad the modern upper plate conversions were, I was compelled to get one. When I put it in a distributor it was installed in the motor, the old original type dist. went in the box of emergency parts under the rumble seat. After about 12 or 15 yrs I ran across it and decided to put that old original style back in. Scraped off the rust, stuck it in, hit the starter button and away it went and it has been in and running for years. I'll check points setting and lube it every couple years. Its probably about time to put the modern plate one back in for another decade of use. My distributors don't get timed very often, they just get taken out and put back in every year or so. With all this Kung Flu lock down nonsense we have a lot of time to spend on this forum.

[DENY 411]

I am new at this,I was having same problem.I tried taking all plugs out using hand crank,
arms are too short for that.I bought one of the vendors wrenches solved the problem!