Proper way to re-torque?

[wmws]

Assuming you are just re-torqueing just go straight to 55 ft.lbs in sequence including the goose-neck. Most people don't recommend backing off the nut first unless it has been on there a long long time and is really rusty. If you do back it off you should only back it off just enough to move it like an 1/16 turn and then immediately torque it down. Some people even drain the block first if they are going to back off.

[bigd1101]

Originally Posted by wmws

Assuming you are just re-torqueing just go straight to 55 ft.lbs in sequence including the goose-neck. Most people don't recommend backing off the nut first unless it has been on there a long long time and is really rusty. If you do back it off you should only back it off just enough to move it like an 1/16 turn and then immediately torque it down. Some people even drain the block first if they are going to back off.

The block is drained but I'm not trying to perform a magic cure here, I'm just trying to stop a leaky head and I doubt it's been re-torqued in a long time, not eons, but probably 10 or 15 years, just a guess.

[jhowes]

As I remember; The reason for retorquing is that a new head gasket (that's not your case) will compress under the tightening of the head bolts and this compression squeezes the gasket. After a warm up the tension will change with heat so it is prudent to re torque to ensure that the proper tension remains. This is repeated several times depending on how concerned the owner is, I have no real answer for your particular case. Good Luck, Jack

[aermotor]

Unless I really misunderstand the timing details it is no big deal to pull the distributer. Just pull it out and slap it back in regardless if you turn the engine or distributer - you can't miss time it. This is how people carry a spare - time a second one and toss it under the seat. Replace on the road in less than 5 minutes, you had it timed while it was laying in the car.

John

[F.M.]

Originally Posted by bigd1101

The block is drained but I'm not trying to perform a magic cure here, I'm just trying to stop a leaky head and I doubt it's been re-torqued in a long time, not eons, but probably 10 or 15 years, just a guess.

I just did the same process with an engine that had been drained in 1989..I Put 55Lbs on "all nuts" and all studs were good with added water.. The head Gasket was fine also. The Water Pump, well I could have put out a fire with it !!..

[30 Closed Cab PU]

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Originally Posted by aermotor

Unless I really misunderstand the timing details it is no big deal to pull the distributer. Just pull it out and slap it back in regardless if you turn the engine or distributer - you can't miss time it. This is how people carry a spare - time a second one and toss it under the seat. Replace on the road in less than 5 minutes, you had it timed while it was laying in the car.

John

You are correct John, another member private messaged me and provided details. My understanding above was wrong, I learned something new today.

[bigd1101]

Thanks for all the advice gang as always, but I'm still at a loss about the goose-neck torquing. I do know it's a tricky spot and too much reefing can crack the housing ears, plus getting a socket over those nuts is a bear if not impossible. The match stick idea alludes me completely, as the seal is broken, so I assume you take the neck off, do 45 LBS on the nut bolt, put it back on with sealer and just tighten down the nut? Makes no sense at all, but this whole simple process got real confusing and complicated with so many different answers and methods.



I have a crows foot wrench to torque the nut under the distributor, will torque the other head bolts with 55 lbs, but why can't I just do a slight hand felt torque on the two nuts on the water outlet goose-neck with an open end wrench, using a gentle tug avoiding cracking the ears?? This would seem to be the least complicated way and after all, I'm just doing all this trying to avoid a head removal....yes...no......maybe??



Don

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

PS.....the two nuts on the radiator water goose-neck are very tight to the body and I doubt a socket will fit over those, only an open end wrench, so how do you torque those? There also seems to be a odd nut almost under the distributor so the same question?

The above nuts are close to the body??? Is the engine installed backwards? The rad outlet is usually at the front and very easy to reach.

The idea of backing off is to release the nut from tension, aka friction. Loosen one nut at a time, then torque right away. Sequence tightening is done on a fresh gasket, yours is not.

This is also how I've always done torque.


I would NEVER use a paper gasket for the outlet. I've seen several broken outlets while using a paper gasket. I use the copper gasket and have never broken an outlet with it. No gasket, but just sealer is another way to go.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

This is also how I've always done torque.


I would NEVER use a paper gasket for the outlet. I've seen several broken outlets while using a paper gasket. I use the copper gasket and have never broken an outlet with it. No gasket, but just sealer is another way to go.

Hi Tom,
So what is the reason paper causes issues? If I have mine off in the future will switch to copper but would like to know why I am doing so.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

If you're still confused, try DELETING some SENTENCES----LOL
Bill W.

[bigd1101]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

If you're still confused, try DELETING some SENTENCES----LOL
Bill W.

Sounds like a plan.......just let me know which ones to delete.

[1931 flamingo]

Jiminy creepers, it's a nut on a stud. In the old days nobody had a torque wrench, tight was tight. How many A's were made and have survived w/out a torque wrench??


Why do we always seem to make something simple hard?? JMO
Same thing goes for setting timing. Rotate the engine, the pin goes in the dimple. Rotate the cam til the points just start to open and tighten the cam screw, done.


Paul in CT

[Bill G]

My observation is that we all have a tendency to be hyper-vigilant when it comes to our "babies". I am guilty of the same thing, and I cannot help but ask myself during those fits of perfectionism, "why all the fuss?"



Like Paul in CT said, these things have survived 90 years with chewing gum, bailing wire, and probably "torquing" using a pair of slip-joint pliers. I guess there has to be some latitude for going both for the simple to being the over-protective grandmas (grandpas).

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Hi Tom,
So what is the reason paper causes issues? If I have mine off in the future will switch to copper but would like to know why I am doing so.

The paper is soft and will give enough to let the cast iron ear snap off. Mine broke when the paper gasket got wet and squished out of place, so the outer edge had no support.


As Paul said, no need to get anal over some things, as I've just used the head nut wrench from the tool kit to check my head nuts while on the road.
After an overheat, it's likely some of the nuts may be loose.

[bigd1101]

Well...it's settled then. Or is it? Yes.....I'm torquing the head bolts on a cold engine at 55 lbs in sequence, will check the goose-neck bolts with an open end and hope it all seals the leak. There, how simple was that! If it doesn't ...it's off with their head(s)!!



Don

[F.M.]

Originally Posted by bigd1101

Well...it's settled then. Or is it? Yes.....I'm torquing the head bolts on a cold engine at 55 lbs in sequence, will check the goose-neck bolts with an open end and hope it all seals the leak. There, how simple was that! If it doesn't ...it's off with their head(s)!!



Don

Please Dont ask about changing your oil !!, You wont have enough time to read them all !!..

[Benson]

The two nuts on water outlet can be tightened with a thinwall socket.

If not, maybe you have one those cheap repro gooseneck parts from the 60s which were the wrong shape.

A picture might show the problem.

[F.M.]

Originally Posted by Benson

The two nuts on water outlet can be tightened with a thinwall socket.

If not, maybe you have one those cheap repro gooseneck parts from the 60s which were the wrong shape.

A picture might show the problem.

What do you mean by "The Wrong Shape" ??

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Minervas' neck broke & sounded like a Rifle Shot. What a mess to clean up!
Bill Damp

[Tinbasher]

Atrick I was told by my engine rebuilder was to re-torque the head 5 times through heat cycles. So each time you run the engine up to temperature, let it cool and then torque it again. It has always seemed to work. as this lets everything settle into place.

JP