"H" style headlamp sockets..

[d.j. moordigian]

I'm in the process of rewiring my "H" style headlamp sockets.
Has anybody done this before? Is the wire crimped or soldered or both?
Any photos?

Thanks,
Dudley

[1955cj5]

I took mine apart some time ago as the insulating block had deteriorated...

Seems to me the wires were only soldered.

Here are a few pictures. Hope they help..

It looks like part of your socket may be missing....

Randy

[JDupuis]

I've soldered mine. With great success. Would liquid plastic be useful to cover the bare wires? Jeff

[Tom Wesenberg]

If they can't easily be unsoldered, then I'd cut the wire 1/4" back from the metal sleeve, and solder on the new wire there.

[d.j. moordigian]

Thank you " '55" for the photos, and to the rest that answered.

I picked this up in Turlock for a practice piece..your correct, it's broken. I have a bag
full of the H's that I collected that are in okay to good shape...they just need new wire.
I did note that some of the contacts(for the bulbs) are real bad and I thought about
machining new ones..

Dudley

[Tom Wesenberg]

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If you don't see a crimp dimple, then I'd guess the wire should easily be unsoldered and a new one slipped in. Be sure to leave a nice convex layer of solder for the contact end.

[KGBnut]

I've tried to do these and I found it difficult to soldier in new wires without overheating the springs. I hadn't broke mine down as far as you did. It looks like you removed the springs already.

[1955cj5]

The insulator is "polarized"...it will only fit into the socket one way if you happen to take it out...there is a wider tab that keys into the socket...

[d.j. moordigian]

Got it!...piece of cake..but you need to remove it from the socket assembly.
What a labor intensive little part..

If you'r worried about the spring (which you should be!),...a thin sheet of Aluminum,
cut with a "U" shape and placed between the spring and the contact end for a heat sink.

Tom,...What size wire?.....14 or 16 gauge?

I'm looking at this brand of wire...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turnigy-Pure...0AAOSwf-VWUMBJ

[jw hash]

There is two types of head light sockets. the soldered ones and the button head ones. on the soldered ones I take them apart heat the soldered end with a solder gun while pulling on the wire. then I take a small peace of welding wire heat it red hot and run it through the end to clean the extra solder out. then install the new wire and solder the end. on the button end ones. it takes a special crimping tool for the button. here is some pictures of both. types and the crimping tool.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Got it!...piece of cake..but you need to remove it from the socket assembly.
What a labor intensive little part..

If you'r worried about the spring (which you should be!),...a thin sheet of Aluminum,
cut with a "U" shape and placed between the spring and the contact end for a heat sink.

Tom,...What size wire?.....14 or 16 gauge?

I'm looking at this brand of wire...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turnigy-Pure...0AAOSwf-VWUMBJ

i used THNN wire - gas and oil resistant and somewhat abrasive resistant. make the wire go in as far as it can and Toms right - leave a solder bubble on the contact end. The biggest wire you can find that will fit in the brass contact is the way to go. Leave the new wire plenty long as its much easier to shorten than lengthen haha.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Got it!...piece of cake..but you need to remove it from the socket assembly.
What a labor intensive little part..

If you'r worried about the spring (which you should be!),...a thin sheet of Aluminum,
cut with a "U" shape and placed between the spring and the contact end for a heat sink.

Tom,...What size wire?.....14 or 16 gauge?

I'm looking at this brand of wire...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turnigy-Pure...0AAOSwf-VWUMBJ

That 16 ga. wire should work fine. It's less than a foot run, so it's fine.