Clean Out Gas Tank

[Larry]

I just bought a 1937 Ford that has been sitting a while. The gas in the tank is thick and smells. Is there a way to clean the gas tank, gas line, and carburator out using a chemical or some kind of magic solution to use to clean out the gas in these areas? Thank you for any help.

[47Merc]

POR 15 Marine clean works good but I think you will have to remove the gas tank to do it properly.

If there is rust in the tank they sell a complete kit to clean and coat the inside of the tank.

I've done a few and I use this to method to swing the tank around so you can coat all sides without breaking your arms.

This one is not a Ford tank but you use the same principal by hooking chains to the mounting holes in the ends

[jimTN]

swimming pool acid, seal the openings and turn the tank often then use water and baking soda to neutralize. Then use a coating. I have used the one MAC's sells for years with no problems. Rad shops put a hole in the lowest point of a corner to drain the tanks then soldier it back up.

[TonyM]

Yep, the POR 15 method worked great for me on my 1937 Ford.

[wga]

Some radiator shops clean them, a route I will take next time. I've had excellent results with POR 15 - it just takes time, and follow - don't slightly deviate from their directions.

[Ken Arms]

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Also, there is a national company called "Renu" I don't know your location but you can google them to find the nearest to you. Ken

[TonyM]

I put my 1937 Ford fuel tank in these two old tires to help agitate the Marine Clean and distribute it to all parts of the fuel tank interior.

[rotorwrench]

To just clean out the old layers of varnish, I always mixed up some Drano and poured some in there (lye solution or sodium hydroxide). The old varnish will come out in chunks. If you have a corrosion problem, I would use the tank prep solution for cleaning prior to using a tank sealer. Phosphoric acid based types work well and any iron oxide remaining is converted to a harder iron phosphate coating that will further protect the bare metal surface.

[corvette8n]

Some body shops will clean your tank also.

[FortyNiner]

Agree with the tank cleanout methods mentioned. I wouldn't try to clean the lines if they are plugged with varnish - just replace them. The carb can be cleaned, following disassemly, with a pail of Berryman Chem dip.

[Larry]

Thanks for all the replies. Great to have all this knowledge at hand when you need it.

[G.M.]

First drain the old gas you have to "melt" the vanish formed from the old gas. Acids won't touch varnish. Put a gallon of denatured alcohol in the tank, let it in there several days shaking the car to move the alcohol around several times a day I tried every solvent I could find and nothing but alcohol worked. Pull the drain plug and drain into a container and see how it looks. If the solution isn't thick and dark pour it back into the tank and drain several more time. You may need another gallon. If it gets to a weak ice tea color it may work without removing the tank. You can soak the carb in alcohol also for a short time or blow it through with a parts washer syphon gun. It depends on how much gas was in the tank before sitting. Funny thing was, 5 minutes before reading this post I was thinking of getting my 36 roadster running that has been sitting in an air conditioned room for 20 years or more. I drained the gas when I stored it so the tank shouldn't be to bad. The gas that was in the tank wasn't gasohol. The gas with alcohol collects moisture that forms in the tank mostly on the sides and top making rust. some water lays on the bottom of the tank and can make rust spot on the bottom. I'll keep a record of exactly what I do to get the 36 running and post the results. First on the list will be a heavy application of Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine with the parts washing gun down the carb, cylinders and down the oil fill hole. Letting this soak a few days and turning the engine by hand. G.M.

[Admiral]

Originally Posted by TonyM

I put my 1937 Ford fuel tank in these two old tires to help agitate the Marine Clean and distribute it to all parts of the fuel tank interior.

That is VERY clever! I never would of thought of using old tires like this.

[David J]

Originally Posted by Larry

I just bought a 1937 Ford that has been sitting a while. The gas in the tank is thick and smells. Is there a way to clean the gas tank, gas line, and carburator out using a chemical or some kind of magic solution to use to clean out the gas in these areas? Thank you for any help.

I see no mention of the word " rust " here . If you are hauling this thing home or around just drain what's in the tank and put a few gallons of that wonderful E-85 in there and let it slosh around on the way home . If it is home do the same and run a line from the fuel pump to a can of fresh clean gas and drive it around [ AFTER CLEANING OUT THE CARB AND PUMP ] until the crap is dissolved and drain it again . It will be really slimy and stinky but it will be liquid . Never had to do this more than twice and it really works . Unlike acids it does not hurt anything and once the tank is clean with a little fresh E-85 in it suck some gas through the line with an electric fuel pump to clean out the line to the firewall . Don't run the car on this crap though - it is just for cleaning . This is standard procedure on old JD's I buy that have been sitting a while . You will be amazed how well this works and it is really cheap to boot .

[old46ford]

If you find a lot of rust in the bottom, save yourself the mess and frustration, and get a new one for $250. Just my two cents, based on two bad tanks that didn't take too well to cleaning and sealing.

[AnthonyG]

Save the aggravation. Old46ford has it right. If you have rust and the crud thick black shellac, the shellac will dissolve but with the baffling I was never able to get all the rust out. fouled my filters several times after cleaning and sealing. Bought a new very nice Tanks Inc. steel tank at tanksinc.com. Looks and mounts totally stock but hold an extra 5 gallons, also have stainless or Poly. with prices ranging from stock type steel (37G) at $215 to Stainless (37SS) $400 plus.

[TJ]

I agree, buy a new tank and save your self a lot of grief. You can spend a lot of money on chemical cleaning agents, etc. and then if that doesn't work you have wasted the time and money. Rusty tanks mean thinner metal. They just don't rust on the bottom, the moisture also rusts the top of the tank. When my neighbor removed the tank from his 53 Victoria it looked good on the outside , but had about 2" of varnish in the bottom. The tank came out of a nice rust free car. When he tapped on the top of the tank with a hammer to see if it was solid the hammer literally fell through the top. It was paper thin from the rust.

[chuck stevens]

My vote is buy a new one, there are a few things that always come back to haunt you down the road, gas tanks a one. Clean the line, fuel pump, and carb, new tank, forget about fuel problems.

[Royal Ryser]

Buy a new one. If you don't, you may be sorry. If you do, you'll never have another problem with it.

[supereal]

We had a "Renu" place in our city. It had a huge pile of old tanks out in back. It appeared that their real business was selling replacement tanks. They are no long open. I agree that replacement is the best option. If you are not a purist, a plastic tank is a good choice. I put one in my '47 after the original tank sprung a bunch of pinholes in the top. Plastic tanks are good for our old cars that spend lots of inactive time. No rust, ever, and they are alcohol proof.