Water pump cavitation. Modifying impeller

[Special Coupe Frank]

Originally Posted by CarlG

What I don't understand is that I can blow water / steam out the overflow and/or cap (if not sealed real well) when accelerating up a grade, but the temp gauge still shows +/- 180. If it's boiling or making steam, shouldn't the gauge read over 212?

This could be indicative of combustion gasses leaking into the cooling system.... head gasket or cracked head / block...

My '28 has some deck cracks radiating from the exhaust valve seats on #2 and #3 cylinder towards the cylinder bores... it's okay loafing around town, but if I pull a steep hill and have my foot in it, she'll blow steam / water out the overflow...

[sturgis 39]

Originally Posted by mach0415

In theory this sounds correct, but slowing the coolant flow slightly causes a more efficient heat transfer, if the radiator is good. With heat transfer at maximum efficiency, then the liquid is cooled in the radiator more effectively as it is exposed to cooler flues/fins over a longer duration - especially in an A radiator.

In the late 1990s, Ford had issues with multiple vehicle lines, regarding low HVAC heat output in the winter. The solution that cured the problem was to put a restricter orifice inline to the heater core to slow down flow for more efficient heat transfer.

I am not sure how the plumbing was done on these years of Fords. The temperature control knob increases the coolant flow to the heater core on some newer cars in the fifties. If I was working for Ford and your theory is correct. I would have install the temperature control valve on the discharge of the heater core and used a Marks-Lot to re-label the control knob.

I graduated from eighth grade from St Pats Grade School.