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Old 10-15-2015, 01:30 PM   #21
kenparker
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

Kinda related question to this thread. How much water should a 30-31 radiator hold if one plugged the bottom outlet and filled the radiator? Not counting the water that is in the block. The radiator is currently off the car.
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Old 10-15-2015, 01:37 PM   #22
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

Did they use "honeycomb" radiators in Model A's in Australia? The factory didn't use them in the US.

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Old 10-15-2015, 02:02 PM   #23
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

Honeycomb radiators are VERY efficient, IF they are CLEAN & FLOW well.
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Old 10-15-2015, 03:57 PM   #24
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

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Originally Posted by pooch View Post
What is a honeycomb radiator re model A ?

( I know what they are , just what is not applicable to an A )

I think chevs/ plymouths had them, but never seen anything but a round tube finned one for a 28 A .
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Did they use "honeycomb" radiators in Model A's in Australia? The factory didn't use them in the US.

Charlie Stephens
My radiator shop man called my radiator "honeycomb", but it's not what I call a honeycomb radiator. I'll post a picture as soon as I can get access to them (I'm on my iPad just now).
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:01 PM   #25
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

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Hoogah, is it just one tube that's leaking?
.

I think so. See what you reckon when I post the photo.
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:06 PM   #26
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Hoogah, I have seen your radiator, and it is not honeycomb.

Is it an original round tube or a recored flat tube one ?

Aussie desert coolers make copper/brass rads for A/s and is at Bendigo each year.

I think they are a bit below $800 .
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:08 PM   #27
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

Here's a photo of the offending leak, also showing the radiator structure. It's a Newcell re-core, possibly 60+ years old, as I can't find evidence of this company's existence forward of the late 1940s.

The radiator doesn't have flat fins, hence I think why my rad shop man described it as honeycomb, which was confusing to me. But that's a side issue!!

These photos were taken before my rad shop man made his (unsuccessful) attempt to solder the leaks. The ongoing leak at the bottom appears to me to be confined to one tube?

The other leaks indicated by staining under the top outlet and near the Newcell tag have taken up and are no longer an issue.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1060930(30%).jpg (50.1 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg P1060931(30%).jpg (51.3 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg P1060919.jpg (89.7 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg P1060929(25%).jpg (47.6 KB, 28 views)

Last edited by Hoogah; 10-15-2015 at 08:07 PM. Reason: typo corrected
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:22 PM   #28
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

I suppose after 60 years we all get a bit leaky.......
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:23 PM   #29
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I suppose after 60 years we all get a bit leaky.......
Hadn't considered Mitch's Depends solution!
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:34 PM   #30
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I believe that leak can be repaired. It likely would require some cutting out of the fins and pinching off the tube. If the resulting appearance doesn't bother you it's a fairly inexpensive job. I had a similar repair done to mine.
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:39 PM   #31
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

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I believe that leak can be repaired. It likely would require some cutting out of the fins and pinching off the tube. If the resulting appearance doesn't bother you it's a fairly inexpensive job. I had a similar repair done to mine.
Thanks, CT AV8! I'm keen for more detail. Is this something I could do at home? What does pinching off the tube entail?

I have had another suggestion that entails also cutting out fins and patching with silicone smeared on a small piece of cotton cloth.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:06 PM   #32
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

It's not something you should try at home. The repair area has to be thoroughly cleaned or else the solder will not take. Rad shops have big tanks to bathe the rad. Mine has the typical horizontal fins not the cellular shaped ones as yours, but they would open up the cell above and below the leak. In your case, judging by the pic, it may actually be at the bottom tank. Then they cut the tube at the leak and flatten it with needle nose and solder it shut. Silicone, jb weld, crazy glue, epoxy stuff will not work regardless of what the label says. If the guy you used can't do it, look for a shop that works on trucks or farm tractors.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:15 PM   #33
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

Hoogah can you post a pic of what the rad shop guy did?

Like, did he cut fins away to get to it ?

The only way I have ever successfully soldered copper or brass is to sandblast it first.

Very thin metal can maybe be soldered by an iron and resin solder.

If this does not take perfectly, sandblast it again and try some stick solder and hydrochloric acid and a flame .

You can always make some replacement fins out of very thin copper or brass plate and push it back into place to match the rest.

A coat of black and you would never notice the repair.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:21 PM   #34
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Hoogah can you post a pic of what the rad shop guy did?

Like, did he cut fins away to get to it ?

The only way I have ever successfully soldered copper or brass is to sandblast it first.

Very thin metal can maybe be soldered by an iron and resin solder.

If this does not take perfectly, sandblast it again and try some stick solder and hydrochloric acid and a flame .

You can always make some replacement fins out of very thin copper or brass plate and push it back into place to match the rest.

A coat of black and you would never notice the repair.
I don't have a pic of the repair and the rad is back in the car. The leak area is hard to photograph sitting down behind the shroud.

The rad repair man tried to seal it up without removing any fins. I could talk to him about removing fins and resoldering/pinching off the tube, as I reckon this area will be hidden by the radiator surround when viewed from the front.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:43 PM   #35
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

That's a new type core. If you run the back of your finger nail very lightly down the fins and they all collapse then they are stuffed.

Aussie Desert I think said A$450 for a core. Not sure if this included installation.
If you could find someone local to install a core, then they can fix it if it doesn't work right.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:45 PM   #36
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If your radiator man called this a honeycomb radiator I would worry about the quality of his work. Buy him a jar of honey with the honeycomb in it.

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Old 10-15-2015, 10:58 PM   #37
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If your radiator man called this a honeycomb radiator I would worry about the quality of his work. Buy him a jar of honey with the honeycomb in it.

Charlie Stephens
I'll let you know how it goes!!
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:35 PM   #38
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

yep not a honeycomb.....
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:14 PM   #39
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Default Re: Leaky Rad

There's been SO MANY fin designs over the years. ALASKA RADIATORS once had fins that made the air go through the radiator on a 45 degree angle, for MAXIMUM distance travel & to dissipate more HEAT.
Lots of Model A problems can be avoided by BACK FLUSHING, once or twice a year. Flakes from the head & block, are a FOREVER problem.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:56 PM   #40
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You could try contacting Greg at FTRS

http://www.ftrs.com.au

they probably have the original equipment for making honeycomb radiators.
He will probably tell you just to buy a new one instead of using old tanks.

I thought with a honeycomb radiator you just plug the hex hole like the bees do and carry on?

There's Aussie Desert Coolers for re-coring. They said theirs cool 30% better than original. Don't know how they turn out.

Mine was re-cored years ago, bought second hand, doesn't fit the shell too well.

A new core with lots of fins should block the view of the tubes ...
I once "plugged" a leaking hex hole, by taping waxed paper under the core & filling the hex hole with 2 part RESIN.
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