How to Get Model A onto Jack Stands in Preparation for Removing Rear End

[shew01]

It looks like I’m going to need to remove the rear end in the near future to take a look at the universal joint.

It’s easy enough to get the front wheels on jack stands, but I’ve never removed the rear end before. What is the best way to jack up the rear end of the car (using the frame) so that can put the rear of the car on jack stands in preparation for removing the rear end? The muffler looks like it’s in the way on the passenger side.


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[alexiskai]

I’ve always just put a jack under the differential, with a wood block for a little extra height. You jack it up to the max height and then put the jack stands under the frame. When you let the jack down, the wheels should be off the ground.

[alexiskai]

Here’s mine right now.

[katy]

What is the best way to jack up the rear end of the car (using the frame)

2 48" "farm jacks" should work. I usually use a floor jack under the differential.

[Patrick L.]

Yep, just make sure the stands are in front of the axle.

[Keith True]

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You just jack it up under the differential,then put the jack stands under the frame,on the OUTBOARD side of the radius rods.You can't slide the rear end out with the stands inside of the radius arms.

[Gene F]

Alexiskai, and katy are correct. I have done this more times that I would have liked to. I have done it by myself, but a helper is always handy. A grandson at installation time is quite an asset.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by Keith True

You just jack it up under the differential,then put the jack stands under the frame,on the OUTBOARD side of the radius rods.You can't slide the rear end out with the stands inside of the radius arms.

Right, with the setup I pictured, you would have to detach the radius rods.

[Joe K]

And my usual warning regarding "jack stands."

The Harbor Freight issues with their version of cast/forged stands are well documented.

Not so well documented are the sheet metal "tubular" stands.

I have had this happen.



I see these at Epping Antique Auto Flea Market all the time. I've just about given up trying to "warn off" anyone. There are a LOT of "survivor" stands around - and no Harbor Freight to class action on these.

Joe K

[chrs1961815]

Yes Joe!!! An old timer made it very clear not to use the ones I has as someone in the club got killed using them. I only use them to support smaller components like a driveshaft or front end. Certainly not a whole car.

[shew01]

I got the entire car up on jack stands, but I am surprised at how much the suspension lowered when it took the wheels off and lowered the differential using the jack. It looks like my jack is pinned under the differential. I have a second floor jack I can use to wiggle it out but I’m concerned that I may have trouble getting the differential/radius arms out from under the car.







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[shew01]

A friend of mine in the club recommended using 6 ton jack stands, and I borrowed a couple from him. That should get the rear of the car higher.


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[alexiskai]

Oh yeah, the ones in my photo are 6-ton.

[shew01]

Before today, I never considered buying higher rated jack stands. I (incorrectly) assumed that a 6 ton jack stand was just built beefier. I didn’t know that it would be taller too.


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[Joe K]

Of course "in the day" many split a Model A rear end and took the trumpet housings and made "jack stands" using these.

Just saying...not that I would recommend it.

Joe K

[Keith True]

I have some of those.i have 4 full height,and two about 1/2 sized.i also have two that were made out of Corvair axle housings.Those have the pivot cups,and make perfect saddles.The backing plates are the bases,but they are really just pressed tin and tend to curl up after the stands have been wiggled around for a while.The Ford trumpet ones came from Arnold Dennets shop in Newmarket.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by shew01

Before today, I never considered buying higher rated jack stands. I (incorrectly) assumed that a 6 ton jack stand was just built beefier. I didn’t know that it would be taller too.


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Tall enough that I can’t put them under the axles because I can’t jack up the axles high enough with the hydraulic floor jack I own.

[katy]

Originally Posted by shew01

A friend of mine in the club recommended using 6 ton jack stands, and I borrowed a couple from him. That should get the rear of the car higher.

I bought a set of 6 ton axle stands years ago, because of the height, they don't get used very often, but they're sure handy when needed.

I made a set of very sturdy stands about 36" high for using when pulling rear ends out of Model T's but let them go when I sold my last Model T.

[Conaway2]

I used a floor jack under the differential to lift the car and then placed 6-ton jack stands under the frame on each side inside the radius rods and removed the radius rods before removing the rear axle. It was more trouble to remove and reinstall the radius rods from under the car, but I could keep the jack stands further toward the rear of frame. I was worried about weight distribution.

I bought these stands on Amazon - made in China, but they seem pretty sturdy and worked very well.

Good luck however you approach this.
Jim

[nkaminar]

For the Model T, Ford had some kind of hook arrangement that extended out the rear of the car and then a skyhook to lift the car. It may have only worked with the body off the frame. I cannot remember the details. If you have a strong roof truss you may be able to lift the car with a chain and strong chain fall. Be careful out there.

With my Model T I had to take the radius rods off to get the rear end out.