The Ford Barn

skeazle · 05-09-2022, 11:47 AM

A couple of weeks ago I started up my '30 Tudor and it ran perfectly fine for about 10 minutes then it just quit like it would if it was out of gas. No sputtering or anything. I checked the tank for gas and I have 4 inches in it. I have juice all the way to the ignition cable that screws in to the housing. I have juice at the two points at the ammeter but the needle does not move when I turn the key on. I have no spark at the points so I am going to replace the points and condenser and the plate with the longer wire cause the one that's on there looks like it seen better days. Trouble is I want to remove the distributor but it won't lift out. I am wiggling it and prying it with a screw driver and it had moved a little. Should I keep doing this or is it not so good to do that?

nkaminar · 05-09-2022, 12:38 PM

Did you remove the distributor locking screw on the side with the jam nut on it? Consult with the Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook, Volume 1, page 1-101. A very worthwhile book to own if you do not have it already. Volume 2 has some trouble shooting guides. If the distributor is really stuck and you have removed the screw, then you may need the puller, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6320&cat=41753. Snyders is temporally out of stock but the other vendors may have it.

Prying on the distributor can break the casting.

skeazle · 05-09-2022, 01:06 PM

Thanks. I got it out I might not have had the screw loose enough.

1931 flamingo · 05-09-2022, 01:30 PM

Mine was solidly attached to the engine, soaked it with PB Blaster and finall used a 3 foot crow bar, no damage.
Paul in CT

DRG-ler · 05-09-2022, 01:33 PM

and I just levered it with a screwdriver and broke off the foot...

Brentwood Bob · 05-09-2022, 01:37 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Brittle casting+ rust= trouble.

DRG-ler · 05-09-2022, 02:05 PM

Let's ask the other way around...

A new part has to be installed. I have just ordered an old used distributor that will be delivered soon.

What speaks against disassembling and derusting it and then baking it in oil to prevent it from rusting again? Has anyone ever done this?

Benson · 05-09-2022, 04:10 PM

The bolt MUST be completely removed. If not the skinny part of the bolt will hang up in the groove on the distributor housing and then "SNAP"

05-09-2022, 11:47 AM	#1
skeazle Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Hershey, Pa. Posts: 102	removing the distributor from the engine. A couple of weeks ago I started up my '30 Tudor and it ran perfectly fine for about 10 minutes then it just quit like it would if it was out of gas. No sputtering or anything. I checked the tank for gas and I have 4 inches in it. I have juice all the way to the ignition cable that screws in to the housing. I have juice at the two points at the ammeter but the needle does not move when I turn the key on. I have no spark at the points so I am going to replace the points and condenser and the plate with the longer wire cause the one that's on there looks like it seen better days. Trouble is I want to remove the distributor but it won't lift out. I am wiggling it and prying it with a screw driver and it had moved a little. Should I keep doing this or is it not so good to do that?

05-09-2022, 12:38 PM	#2
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,900	Re: removing the distributor from the engine. Did you remove the distributor locking screw on the side with the jam nut on it? Consult with the Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook, Volume 1, page 1-101. A very worthwhile book to own if you do not have it already. Volume 2 has some trouble shooting guides. If the distributor is really stuck and you have removed the screw, then you may need the puller, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6320&cat=41753. Snyders is temporally out of stock but the other vendors may have it. Prying on the distributor can break the casting. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

05-09-2022, 01:06 PM	#3
skeazle Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Hershey, Pa. Posts: 102	Re: removing the distributor from the engine. Thanks. I got it out I might not have had the screw loose enough.

05-09-2022, 01:30 PM	#4
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: removing the distributor from the engine. Mine was solidly attached to the engine, soaked it with PB Blaster and finall used a 3 foot crow bar, no damage. Paul in CT

05-09-2022, 01:33 PM	#5
DRG-ler Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Berlin / Germany Posts: 182	Re: removing the distributor from the engine. and I just levered it with a screwdriver and broke off the foot...

05-09-2022, 01:37 PM	#6
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,246	Re: removing the distributor from the engine. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Brittle casting+ rust= trouble.

05-09-2022, 02:05 PM	#7
DRG-ler Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Berlin / Germany Posts: 182	Re: removing the distributor from the engine. Let's ask the other way around... A new part has to be installed. I have just ordered an old used distributor that will be delivered soon. What speaks against disassembling and derusting it and then baking it in oil to prevent it from rusting again? Has anyone ever done this?

05-09-2022, 04:10 PM	#8
Benson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,599	Re: removing the distributor from the engine. The bolt MUST be completely removed. If not the skinny part of the bolt will hang up in the groove on the distributor housing and then "SNAP"