distributor oiler

[cvicky]

I replaced my original dual vacuum distributor on my 55 272 with a 57 single vacuum distributor
the original had a place to oil the 57 oiler has a plastic plug
do I have to oil?

[dmsfrr]

Not seeing or knowing for sure which distributor you have is a disadvantage but,
if you can remove and replace the plug without damaging it you should use it to oil the distributor shaft. The plastic plug is likely a cheap substitute for the original spring-loaded metal cap.

If you can post a couple photos of the inside & outside of the distributor or include the casting/part number that may help avoid confusion. Do you know that it's actually a '57 distributor, or were you told that it is? It may or may not make a difference.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by cvicky

I replaced my original dual vacuum distributor on my 55 272 with a 57 single vacuum distributor

the original had a place to oil the 57 oiler has a plastic plug
do I have to oil?

Are you the gentleman that had another member here pump up your 272 with earlier engine parts and a 1956 dual diaphragm LOM DIST?

What DUAL ADVANCE DIST was used to replace the LOM?

[paul2748]

The stock type oil cup and cover is available after market if looking for one. CASCO lists it, I assume it is the same for a sedan distributor as a Tbird unit. Part # 310141 S

[paul2748]

I think he is referring to the dual vacuum cans used on 56 Fords, although he said he had a 55.

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Are you the gentleman that had another member here pump up your 272 with earlier engine parts and a 1956 dual diaphragm LOM DIST?

What DUAL ADVANCE DIST was used to replace the LOM?

[Daves55Sedan]

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I don't know if it has already been said, but the engine will not perform correctly by dropping in a '57 and later distributor with mechanical advance unless you ALSO replace the original loadomatic carburetor with a '57 or later style carb.
That may cause other issues; such as having to swap intake manifolds and/or carburetor mechanical linkage and do all the adjustments, depending upon whether or not you have 2-bbl or 4-bbl carb and manual or Ford-o-matic transmission.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

I don't know if it has already been said, but the engine will not perform correctly by dropping in a '57 and later distributor with mechanical advance unless you ALSO replace the original loadomatic carburetor with a '57 or later style carb.
...

cvicky, here's the reason why...
The vacuum timing advance canister(s) on a '56 or earlier Loadomatic distributor needs a vacuum signal of 0 to 5 inches of vacuum to control the timing correctly. The '56 and earlier carburetors provide that.

The vacuum canister on a '57+ distributor uses 5 to 20 inches of vacuum, provided by a '57 or newer carburetor.
By itself the mechanical timing advance of a '57+ distributor is a big step forward compared to the earlier distributors, having the vacuum canister working correctly helps even more.

If the engine currently has one of the older carburetors it may be possible to modify it to provide the vacuum levels needed for a '57+ distributor. See this link...
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2013/0...-distributors/
.

[cvicky]

it seems to be working with my 4 barrel holley t pot and three speed manual trans
I m on the lower vacuum and pluged the upper vacuum

and no I did not pump up 272

who is casco

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by cvicky

it seems to be working with my 4 barrel holley t pot and three speed manual trans
I m on the lower vacuum and pluged the upper vacuum
...

Yes it will work, but unless the carb is modified neither fitting will supply the right vacuum level for a '57+ distributor.

Originally Posted by cvicky

...
who is casco

Casco is a parts supplier that specializes in '55/'57 T-Birds, but many of the parts are interchangeable.
at this link...
https://www.classictbird.com/

The replacement distributor oiler cap paul2748 mentioned...
https://www.classictbird.com/Oil-Cup...tinfo/310141S/
.

[cvicky]

how can I modify t pot to work with 57 distributor

ive tried to get dual vacuum distributor woth no luck

any ideas

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by cvicky

how can I modify t pot to work with 57 distributor

ive tried to get dual vacuum distributor woth no luck

any ideas

Back in reply # 7 there is a link to an article from Eaton Balancing with the step-by-step How-To...
I don't have one of the Holley 4000 teapot carbs and haven't done the modification.

"dual vacuum distributor" Is this the type you're talking about? First three photos below...
This version is specific to '56.

A '55 intake manifold and 4bbl carburetor will look like the ones shown in the fourth photo.
Especially notice the location of the choke thermostat on the intake manifold.

Last photo... a '57 distributor
.

[cvicky]

yes carb and distributor look very close and I finally read eatons distributor thx

im just learning computer and Ford barn I wish I would have met you 4 years ago

the coil was no good contradicting all tests t pot was gummed up and seezed

and the distributor well … still I night mare oh and who ever adjusted valves
0 compression #4 cylinder #7 about 90 now they are all over 120 thx again

[cvicky]

oh and oil pump shaft to distributor was to long rotar was hitting top of cap

I don't know if its distributor related but when cruising at constant speed there is a very slite surge

I know how to email pics but don't know how to put on this site like you did

[cvicky]

yes I compared pics to my 57 distributor and t pot carb they are the same
someone earlier was saying dual vacuum was only in 56
my car is defenatly a 55 Fairlane the letters on the block indicate 272 even though the paperwork I got from estate says 292 everything else cheques out

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by cvicky

oh and oil pump shaft to distributor was to long rotar was hitting top of cap ...

It may be the wrong cap for the distributor??? I believe the caps for '56 and older are slightly smaller than the '57 and newer caps, they aren't the same size.

Originally Posted by cvicky

yes I compared pics to my 57 distributor and t pot carb they are the same
someone earlier was saying dual vacuum was only in 56
my car is defenatly a 55 Fairlane the letters on the block indicate 272 even though the paperwork I got from estate says 292 everything else cheques out

Please look closer at these two pictures. The distributor with the double sided vacuum canister is only '56.
It has a pair of visible springs inside (1st photo) and a different style rotor than the '57/'59 version. (2nd photo)
Which one are you referring to as trying to use on the engine?

It's not directly related to which distributors you have but,
which letters on the block tell you it's a 272 and where are they located?
.

[cvicky]

my dual vacuum distributor has 2 springs and a large rotar FTD12127-B2 634 came on my 55 Fairlane

my second distributor single canister with bent arm and silver plates inside small rotar markings are worn off will work with adjustments on T pot

engine code ECG 16 top back of engine left of distributor

this is my 3rd attempt to reply
leaning computer LOL

[paul2748]

In the second picture, it looks like you have an electronic kit installed (hard to see) as there is two wires coming out of it The bent arm vacuum units came on late 59 to 64?. Can you see what the number is on the side?

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by cvicky

my dual vacuum distributor has 2 springs and a large rotar FTD12127-B2 634 came on my 55 Fairlane

my second distributor single canister with bent arm and silver plates inside small rotar markings are worn off will work with adjustments on T pot

engine code ECG 16 top back of engine left of distributor
...

FYI, the distributor in your first photo is a '56 specific version, with a points conversion kit installed.

"ECG" next to the hole for the distributor is for a '55 to '57 272 block cast in Dearborn. (first photo below)
There is an engine block casting number chart at this link...
http://ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm

The carburetor in your third and forth photos is a bit hard to see overall, but it may be a '56. There are part numbers on the rear of the carb's base-plate. A '56 4bbl carb has the choke thermostat mounted on the passenger side. (photo 2)
The number across the back of the intake manifold behind the carburetor might be ECZ-9425-A ???

Yes a ('55 or) '56 4bbl carburetor can be modified to work with the newer '59 / '64 distributor shown in your second photo. See this Eaton Balancing link...
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2013/0...-distributors/

A '55 4bbl carburetor has the choke thermostat mounted low on the intake manifold. (photo 3)

[cvicky]

1st pic mine ECZ
2nd ECG 16 and my choke is on carb like pic
Pertronix ignitor instead of points

[cvicky]

is 59-64 distributor a beter set up

[cvicky]

numbers are worn off casting
is your 54 the same 272 set up as mine
I understand 54-55 are same car 53 totally different car

[cvicky]

1)reading Eatons Balancing it only talks about -vacuum on top frt off t pot nothing on +vacuum bottom back off tea pot
I am hooked up to vacuum bottom back of tea pot

2)how important is oiler on 59-64 dist hole is plugged

thx so much for your help
very helpful
all the locals are chev boys... they say parts ampel easy ……
I say if I wanted a damn #%&*#@ chev I would have bought one

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by cvicky

1st pic mine ECZ
2nd ECG 16 and my choke is on carb like pic
...

The engine has a few '56 parts on it. Someone may have just put those parts on, or the original '55 engine may have been swapped for a '56. It doesn't make too much difference except to know which year pieces you have. Some of the parts changed each year from '54 to '64.

Originally Posted by cvicky

is 59-64 distributor a beter set up

It's about the same as the '57+ version, just a year or so newer. The plate the points mount to is built differently.

Originally Posted by cvicky

numbers are worn off casting
is your 54 the same 272 set up as mine
I understand 54-55 are same car 53 totally different car

'53 would have the Flathead engine. '54 was the first year for the overhead valve Y-Block engine.
Ford made improvements and upgrades each model year, so the car & parts are similar but not exactly the same for each model year. '55 was the last year for 6 volt Positive ground electrical systems, '56 went to 12 volt negative ground.

I have a (non-original) '55 T-Bird with a 292. The original engine was gone and I replaced it with a rebuilt '55 shortblock with some newer top-end parts on it from '57 and '58.
(I also have a '57 project that I haven't really started on yet)

Originally Posted by cvicky

1)reading Eatons Balancing it only talks about -vacuum on top frt off t pot nothing on +vacuum bottom back off tea pot
I am hooked up to vacuum bottom back of tea pot
2)how important is oiler on 59-64 dist hole is plugged

thx so much for your help
very helpful
all the locals are chev boys... they say parts ampel easy ……
I say if I wanted a damn #%&*#@ chev I would have bought one

When the old carburetor is updated to connect to a newer distributor there will only be one vacuum line connection to the distributor. The connection from 'manifold vacuum' at the base of the carburetor is not used for the distributor.

It is important to oil the distributor shaft regularly (about every oil change?) or it will wear and fail earlier.
I suspect there is a general lubrication schedule for everything on the car in the Shop Manual.
.

[cvicky]

ok frt upper vacuum on teepot 1\2 psi

lower back vacuum line 20psi normal on vacuum gauge

I donot have timing light so I set timming at normal on vacuum gauge

now I plugged both vacuum lines (no vacuum to distributor)

CAR RUNS GREAT

two concerns -will I do damage with no vacuum to distributor
-is oiler cup essential

[cvicky]

sorry just saw your 11;40 reply thanks

[dmsfrr]

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Originally Posted by cvicky

... -will I do damage with no vacuum to distributor ...

No it will not damage anything... as long as the timing advance is working.
If the Timing Advance isn't working performance will suffer & the exhaust temp can go high enough to break things.
See this link... https://www.ctci.org/cracked-exhaust-manifold/

Timing advance with no vacuum connection at idle should be in the 6 to maybe 10 degree neighborhood.
Total timing advance at higher rpm could be a bit over 30 degrees.
With the vacuum canister working correctly you may get a couple more degrees of timing advance, and better gas mileage.

[packrat5]

60 to 64 are the better distributors COAE C4AE COTE C4TE Most of the 57 to 59 are the ball bearing breaker plate. The COAE and up are the triangle breaker plate which was used in all the later units, and are the most desireable, and work the best, and use later parts which interchange.
If you use a 57 and later, or "modern" carb, you MUST use a 57 or later distributor.
If you use a 56 carb, you must use a 56 distributor. If you use a 55 carb, you must use a 55 distributor, etc. They are calibrated to work as a unit.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by packrat5

...
If you use a 56 carb, you must use a 56 distributor. If you use a 55 carb, you must use a 55 distributor, etc. They are calibrated to work as a unit.

The '55 and '56 Holley 4000 'teapot' style carburetors can be modified to work the timing advance of a '57+ distributor correctly.

Here's a link to an article for you...
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2013/0...-distributors/

[packrat5]

Ever since the y-block has been out there, and it has been many years, backyard wrenches, and a few "pros" have insisted on switching these non-interchangeable carburetors and distributors around with mixed, and often poor results. I realize anything can be accomplished with varying degrees of persistence, but all I can reply to this is Why, why, oh why would you put so much effort into deliberately doing something the wrong way? I was raised differently, and I raised my sons the same, do it the right way, or don't do it at all. Cobbing something together just to prove it can be done, and trying to prove someone who wants to do it correctly is wrong is a waste of time

[dmsfrr]

packrat5, I understand your feelings, but what about Ford improving and upgrading various engine parts throughout the 10 year run of Y-block engines? Is it wrong to use improved parts?

The fellow who wrote the article I linked above is an exceptionally well respected engine builder, specifically including the Y-blocks, and with the credentials to prove it. He's also a regular contributor here on FordBarn.
I wouldn't hesitate for a second to follow any of his suggestions or advice about engines.

I certainly understand the problem with cars for sale or show that have mismatched parts. I bought a '55 Bird that was described (by three different sources) as having a 292, but it was a 256 from a '54 Merc. Ticked me off big time, still does if I think about it too much.
It's the intent to misrepresent something as 'better than what it really is' that I see as the bigger problem.
If a car or its parts are accurately described as what they really are, especially if the parts are a safety, reliability or performance improvement is it really a problem? In an "original" show car class competition yes it would be... but personal classic vehicles built for our own enjoyment, I believe that's a different thing.

To each his own...
Unless it's something that literally won't function as the owner/builder hoped, or a matter of personal opinion...
it would be wrong of me to tell someone they're building their car incorrectly... it's their car.
.

[packrat5]

I'm not building anything, nor do I intend to. At my age, I'm lucky to still be alive(?) I simply wanted to state the fact that if you are going to put time and effort into something, no matter what it is, why put together crap that is incorrect?
As far as Ted Eaton and a couple of other guys go, I am not condemning them in any way. They do what they do. However, not everyone is driving a full-boogie race car on the street, in spite of what they think, they are living in a fool's paradise. What's that old saying, "the older I gets, the faster I was" So true.A tuned Honda Civic will beat most of these old y-blocks easily. You can't beat technology.