Brakes, what to grease, what not to grease

[Zener424]

Hi, this is Phil from Staten Island, NY and this is my first post on this board. I have a 1929 Briggs Town Sedan and I'm going over the entire brake system. I have a question concerning lubrication of the components under the brake drum: rollers, pins, wedges, adjusting shafts, etc. I have read several different opinions on what to grease and what not to grease. Does anyone know of an authoritative article or comprehensive list of items that should be lubricated? Also, what should absolutely not be lubricated? In addition, there seems to be different opinions on the type of grease: wheel bearing, red, lubriplate, etc. What's the best considering the heat and dust factors?

[Mitch//pa]

i lube most pivot points, adjusters, etc using common sense... i highly recommend this synthetic grease. we use it on all of our brake work

[Tom Wesenberg]

I do the same as Mitch. I even put a dab of lube on the spring ends where they hook. I lube all moving parts, except the linings.

BTW, remember in the old days you used to hear that you should ride the brakes for a couple blocks to dry them out if they got water on them. In the late 60's I was driving my 55 Chevy and got water on the linings from deep water puddles, and when I hit the brakes. it was like they weren't even touching the drums.

[Purdy Swoft]

I wouldn't get too happy with grease on brake parts, if I used any at all. Not to be disagreeable but oil or grease on the brake lining ain't good. Brakes get hot hot oil and grease can flow into places that you wouldn't want it. Grease won't necessarily remain on the moving parts for long anyway. I allways put grease in the cavity where the brake adjusting wedge meets the brake adjusting shafts. Just my thoughts, noi harm meant.

[Mitch//pa]

greasing the brake items is a common sense approach. on modern iron shoes we grease the shoe to backing plate 3 rub points, adjuster wheel threads, top shoe stop. on disc we grease the back side of the pads, pad to knuckle saddle points and calipers slides. using the proper amount and type grease will not melt down and go on the linings.. the same applys to A shoes just different lube points

[ericr]

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Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I wouldn't get too happy with grease on brake parts, if I used any at all. Not to be disagreeable but oil or grease on the brake lining ain't good. Brakes get hot hot oil and grease can flow into places that you wouldn't want it. Grease won't necessarily remain on the moving parts for long anyway. I allways put grease in the cavity where the brake adjusting wedge meets the brake adjusting shafts. Just my thoughts, noi harm meant.

I kinda wonder the same thing. Murray Fahnestock's writings made a big ballyhoo over the cad plating of the brake parts and how serviceable this made the brakes. Also I really don't know how much water gets into the brake area, certainly these parts are not in a waterproof enclosure.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

greasing the brake items is a common sense approach. on modern iron shoes we grease the shoe to backing plate 3 rub points, adjuster wheel threads, top shoe stop. on disc we grease the back side of the pads, pad to knuckle saddle points and calipers slides. using the proper amount and type grease will not melt down and go on the linings.. the same applys to A shoes just different lube points

LISTEN TO THE KID He knows his Shit!!
When you disassemble your brakes, look for SHINY metal to metal contact points & when you put them back on, LUBE ALL those points. This eliminates high frequency vibrations & you'll have TOTALLY quiet brakes AND, it reduces friction, which makes the brakes hold great, with less pedal pressure!! NOT that, "SCREEEEEEECHING" CRAP!! Just use an acid brush & HIGH TEMP. Disc brake lube, like the Kid said in his other post
Bill W.

[Zener424]

I always find it interesting how many different opinions there can be on a subject that one would think there is a tried and true method. In Jim Schild's Restorer's Shop Manual the only specific items he mentions is: packing the brake adjusting wedge housings with brake lubricant. Then he goes on to say "use plenty of lubricant on all moving parts". In Les Andrews' Mechanics Handbook he states apply a small amount or a light coat of grease on: both ends of the operating pins, adjusting wedges, and adjusting shafts. Based this and some of the comments, I've decided I'll purchase the special brake part lubricant and lubricate the parts mentioned by Les, and any other moveable contact wear points, using common sense. Thanks you guys for your all your help.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Zener424

I always find it interesting how many different opinions there can be on a subject that one would think there is a tried and true method. In Jim Schild's Restorer's Shop Manual the only specific items he mentions is: packing the brake adjusting wedge housings with brake lubricant. Then he goes on to say "use plenty of lubricant on all moving parts". In Les Andrews' Mechanics Handbook he states apply a small amount or a light coat of grease on: both ends of the operating pins, adjusting wedges, and adjusting shafts. Based this and some of the comments, I've decided I'll purchase the special brake part lubricant and lubricate the parts mentioned by Les, and any other moveable contact wear points, using common sense. Thanks you guys for your all your help.

'Common sense' is good !
You also asked what not to do. I like to hear from those who have actually done that. So, having 'done that and shouldn't have..as negative results were EXPENSIVE.....Do not over lube the rear wheel bearings. Excess lube will work its way outward (centrifugal force/whatever) and into rear brakes, which of course is bad news, i.e.- money/time.
Therefor, I NEVER lube thru the zerk that ford provided on his early cars (a zerk that he eventually eliminated , IMO, to stop such a mess in rear brakes. Put plenty of lube in when installing and that's it. Good luck.