distributor oiler

[cvicky]

numbers are worn off casting
is your 54 the same 272 set up as mine
I understand 54-55 are same car 53 totally different car

[cvicky]

1)reading Eatons Balancing it only talks about -vacuum on top frt off t pot nothing on +vacuum bottom back off tea pot
I am hooked up to vacuum bottom back of tea pot

2)how important is oiler on 59-64 dist hole is plugged

thx so much for your help
very helpful
all the locals are chev boys... they say parts ampel easy ……
I say if I wanted a damn #%&*#@ chev I would have bought one

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by cvicky

1st pic mine ECZ
2nd ECG 16 and my choke is on carb like pic
...

The engine has a few '56 parts on it. Someone may have just put those parts on, or the original '55 engine may have been swapped for a '56. It doesn't make too much difference except to know which year pieces you have. Some of the parts changed each year from '54 to '64.

Originally Posted by cvicky

is 59-64 distributor a beter set up

It's about the same as the '57+ version, just a year or so newer. The plate the points mount to is built differently.

Originally Posted by cvicky

numbers are worn off casting
is your 54 the same 272 set up as mine
I understand 54-55 are same car 53 totally different car

'53 would have the Flathead engine. '54 was the first year for the overhead valve Y-Block engine.
Ford made improvements and upgrades each model year, so the car & parts are similar but not exactly the same for each model year. '55 was the last year for 6 volt Positive ground electrical systems, '56 went to 12 volt negative ground.

I have a (non-original) '55 T-Bird with a 292. The original engine was gone and I replaced it with a rebuilt '55 shortblock with some newer top-end parts on it from '57 and '58.
(I also have a '57 project that I haven't really started on yet)

Originally Posted by cvicky

1)reading Eatons Balancing it only talks about -vacuum on top frt off t pot nothing on +vacuum bottom back off tea pot
I am hooked up to vacuum bottom back of tea pot
2)how important is oiler on 59-64 dist hole is plugged

thx so much for your help
very helpful
all the locals are chev boys... they say parts ampel easy ……
I say if I wanted a damn #%&*#@ chev I would have bought one

When the old carburetor is updated to connect to a newer distributor there will only be one vacuum line connection to the distributor. The connection from 'manifold vacuum' at the base of the carburetor is not used for the distributor.

It is important to oil the distributor shaft regularly (about every oil change?) or it will wear and fail earlier.
I suspect there is a general lubrication schedule for everything on the car in the Shop Manual.
.

[cvicky]

ok frt upper vacuum on teepot 1\2 psi

lower back vacuum line 20psi normal on vacuum gauge

I donot have timing light so I set timming at normal on vacuum gauge

now I plugged both vacuum lines (no vacuum to distributor)

CAR RUNS GREAT

two concerns -will I do damage with no vacuum to distributor
-is oiler cup essential

[cvicky]

sorry just saw your 11;40 reply thanks

[dmsfrr]

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Originally Posted by cvicky

... -will I do damage with no vacuum to distributor ...

No it will not damage anything... as long as the timing advance is working.
If the Timing Advance isn't working performance will suffer & the exhaust temp can go high enough to break things.
See this link... https://www.ctci.org/cracked-exhaust-manifold/

Timing advance with no vacuum connection at idle should be in the 6 to maybe 10 degree neighborhood.
Total timing advance at higher rpm could be a bit over 30 degrees.
With the vacuum canister working correctly you may get a couple more degrees of timing advance, and better gas mileage.

[packrat5]

60 to 64 are the better distributors COAE C4AE COTE C4TE Most of the 57 to 59 are the ball bearing breaker plate. The COAE and up are the triangle breaker plate which was used in all the later units, and are the most desireable, and work the best, and use later parts which interchange.
If you use a 57 and later, or "modern" carb, you MUST use a 57 or later distributor.
If you use a 56 carb, you must use a 56 distributor. If you use a 55 carb, you must use a 55 distributor, etc. They are calibrated to work as a unit.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by packrat5

...
If you use a 56 carb, you must use a 56 distributor. If you use a 55 carb, you must use a 55 distributor, etc. They are calibrated to work as a unit.

The '55 and '56 Holley 4000 'teapot' style carburetors can be modified to work the timing advance of a '57+ distributor correctly.

Here's a link to an article for you...
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2013/0...-distributors/

[packrat5]

Ever since the y-block has been out there, and it has been many years, backyard wrenches, and a few "pros" have insisted on switching these non-interchangeable carburetors and distributors around with mixed, and often poor results. I realize anything can be accomplished with varying degrees of persistence, but all I can reply to this is Why, why, oh why would you put so much effort into deliberately doing something the wrong way? I was raised differently, and I raised my sons the same, do it the right way, or don't do it at all. Cobbing something together just to prove it can be done, and trying to prove someone who wants to do it correctly is wrong is a waste of time

[dmsfrr]

packrat5, I understand your feelings, but what about Ford improving and upgrading various engine parts throughout the 10 year run of Y-block engines? Is it wrong to use improved parts?

The fellow who wrote the article I linked above is an exceptionally well respected engine builder, specifically including the Y-blocks, and with the credentials to prove it. He's also a regular contributor here on FordBarn.
I wouldn't hesitate for a second to follow any of his suggestions or advice about engines.

I certainly understand the problem with cars for sale or show that have mismatched parts. I bought a '55 Bird that was described (by three different sources) as having a 292, but it was a 256 from a '54 Merc. Ticked me off big time, still does if I think about it too much.
It's the intent to misrepresent something as 'better than what it really is' that I see as the bigger problem.
If a car or its parts are accurately described as what they really are, especially if the parts are a safety, reliability or performance improvement is it really a problem? In an "original" show car class competition yes it would be... but personal classic vehicles built for our own enjoyment, I believe that's a different thing.

To each his own...
Unless it's something that literally won't function as the owner/builder hoped, or a matter of personal opinion...
it would be wrong of me to tell someone they're building their car incorrectly... it's their car.
.

[packrat5]

I'm not building anything, nor do I intend to. At my age, I'm lucky to still be alive(?) I simply wanted to state the fact that if you are going to put time and effort into something, no matter what it is, why put together crap that is incorrect?
As far as Ted Eaton and a couple of other guys go, I am not condemning them in any way. They do what they do. However, not everyone is driving a full-boogie race car on the street, in spite of what they think, they are living in a fool's paradise. What's that old saying, "the older I gets, the faster I was" So true.A tuned Honda Civic will beat most of these old y-blocks easily. You can't beat technology.