The Ford Barn

Brendan1959 · 10-26-2021, 12:46 AM

Hi Folks
I have not posted for a while.
I just bought a rolling chassis from a hot rodder who pulled the tudor body off to build his rod.
It is in Australia but the story goes it was restored in las Vegas in 2012. everything look like it was replaced at the time new bolts everywhere new chrome etc.
New cast iron drums with no wear however the new studs are welded to the flanges and not swaged to the drums, is this going to cause trouble down the track?
When I had it on the jack to look at the hubs I noticed the chassis twists very easily, video(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFWyhdVBYsM) seems like a lot to me, it has a float a motor and the front and center cross member are bolted in, I cant remember what my roadster was like when the body was off?

I pulled the oil tube and its as clean as a whistle inside I think I am on a winner.

chrs1961815 · 10-26-2021, 01:25 AM

Welded studs to hubs are a bad idea. Will it work if you know what you are doing, yes. But most people use the regular studs and they will end up being longer because they are not swaged. Meaning your lug nut might bottom out. The other issue is that the weld bead on the backside will hit the emergency brake linkage pins, unless it is tack welded. Another problem is that the hub is hardened, which makes it more difficult to weld so who knows the integrity of it. After welding most of these hubs become scrap.

There was a recent thread on bolting in crossmembers, basically they have to be riveted in because rivets flex more. Bolts will loosen up eventually or cause the whole crossmember to move. This may be be part of the problem with your chassis twisting too much.

I hate to say it but I would be suspect of other work too. It does look like it was actually restored though, and not just repainted or left as is. But spots look older than 2012 to me.

Big hammer · 10-26-2021, 06:48 AM

My bare 31 frame I could pick up one corner of the frame about 6 inches, I didn't do anything and has work ok for me.

nkaminar · 10-26-2021, 06:53 AM

Rivets fill the holes in the frame when swedged for a secure fastening. Bolts should not be used unless they are tapered and fit into tapered holes. Same thing for the studs in the hubs. I recently repaired a hub for a friend that that had 2 welded studs. The weld for one had come loose and the studs were holding off the lug nuts so that they were not tight against the wheels.

Ford designed his cars with flexible frames. It was part of the suspension system for the poor roads at the time. Modern cars have rigid bodies or frames that work better on modern roads. Hod rodders will box in the frame by welding in a plate to make the frame a box section rather than a C section. That will stiffen up the frame and works better with more powerful engines and modern suspension components. Stiffer frames started appearing in the mid 1930's.

Brentwood Bob · 10-26-2021, 11:00 AM

I notice the cut off switch is in an odd location. Cables can rub on the pedals, and the preferred cable is the ground cable.

Patrick L. · 10-26-2021, 11:36 AM

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These frame do flex a lot.

mass A man · 10-26-2021, 03:41 PM

I agree with all the previous replies, especially about your hubs/drums. Consider going back to original type or a set of the beautiful new cast iron drums. That's an odd looking water pump! Maybe because I'm not too familiar with 28's-'29's?

Keith True · 10-26-2021, 04:19 PM

I have 4 or 5 of those water pumps.I call them a tubular pump.Whenever I come across one I buy it.Couple of bucks at the swap meets.The F-1 steering box is a nice extra.I don't know how much I would worry about the bolted crossmember,it will never get the abuse it had back when it was young.A good road then was worse than a bad road now.

Brendan1959 · 10-26-2021, 05:22 PM

Is this an F1 steering box?

Bob C · 10-26-2021, 05:23 PM

I think the steering box is one of John Kovar's EZ Steer POS.

nkaminar · 10-26-2021, 05:47 PM

I rebuilt my F-100 steering box recently. They are similar to the F-1. It is really a nice design. Instead of teeth against the worm it has a rolling member with a number of rings, sort of like a gear. So there is no sliding. A rolling worm against a rolling gear.

There is one adjustment. You push the rolling gear closer to the worm gear to take up any wear.

Very low friction plus a lower gear ratio. I have no problem turning the wheel while stationary.

mercman from oz · 10-26-2021, 08:34 PM

Model A Chassis etc saved from destruction.

CarlG · 10-26-2021, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

I think the steering box is one of John Kovar's EZ Steer POS.

POS -- I second that motion.

10-26-2021, 01:25 AM	#2
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting Welded studs to hubs are a bad idea. Will it work if you know what you are doing, yes. But most people use the regular studs and they will end up being longer because they are not swaged. Meaning your lug nut might bottom out. The other issue is that the weld bead on the backside will hit the emergency brake linkage pins, unless it is tack welded. Another problem is that the hub is hardened, which makes it more difficult to weld so who knows the integrity of it. After welding most of these hubs become scrap. There was a recent thread on bolting in crossmembers, basically they have to be riveted in because rivets flex more. Bolts will loosen up eventually or cause the whole crossmember to move. This may be be part of the problem with your chassis twisting too much. I hate to say it but I would be suspect of other work too. It does look like it was actually restored though, and not just repainted or left as is. But spots look older than 2012 to me. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

10-26-2021, 06:48 AM	#3
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,127	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting My bare 31 frame I could pick up one corner of the frame about 6 inches, I didn't do anything and has work ok for me. __________________ Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done

10-26-2021, 06:53 AM	#4
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,898	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting Rivets fill the holes in the frame when swedged for a secure fastening. Bolts should not be used unless they are tapered and fit into tapered holes. Same thing for the studs in the hubs. I recently repaired a hub for a friend that that had 2 welded studs. The weld for one had come loose and the studs were holding off the lug nuts so that they were not tight against the wheels. Ford designed his cars with flexible frames. It was part of the suspension system for the poor roads at the time. Modern cars have rigid bodies or frames that work better on modern roads. Hod rodders will box in the frame by welding in a plate to make the frame a box section rather than a C section. That will stiffen up the frame and works better with more powerful engines and modern suspension components. Stiffer frames started appearing in the mid 1930's. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

10-26-2021, 11:00 AM	#5
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,233	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting I notice the cut off switch is in an odd location. Cables can rub on the pedals, and the preferred cable is the ground cable.

10-26-2021, 11:36 AM	#6
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) These frame do flex a lot.

10-26-2021, 03:41 PM	#7
mass A man Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Danvers, Ma. Posts: 712	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting I agree with all the previous replies, especially about your hubs/drums. Consider going back to original type or a set of the beautiful new cast iron drums. That's an odd looking water pump! Maybe because I'm not too familiar with 28's-'29's?

10-26-2021, 04:19 PM	#8
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,983	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting I have 4 or 5 of those water pumps.I call them a tubular pump.Whenever I come across one I buy it.Couple of bucks at the swap meets.The F-1 steering box is a nice extra.I don't know how much I would worry about the bolted crossmember,it will never get the abuse it had back when it was young.A good road then was worse than a bad road now.

10-26-2021, 05:47 PM	#11
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,898	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting I rebuilt my F-100 steering box recently. They are similar to the F-1. It is really a nice design. Instead of teeth against the worm it has a rolling member with a number of rings, sort of like a gear. So there is no sliding. A rolling worm against a rolling gear. There is one adjustment. You push the rolling gear closer to the worm gear to take up any wear. Very low friction plus a lower gear ratio. I have no problem turning the wheel while stationary. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

10-26-2021, 08:34 PM	#12
mercman from oz Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Queensland, Australia Posts: 10,361	Re: Rolling chassis purchased from a hot rodder twisting Model A Chassis etc saved from destruction.