Rear axle shaft nut, how to turn on

[Werner]

Hello,


who knows the force for turn on the rear shaft drum nuts?


It means the torque craft with torque wrench.


Thanks in advance!

[Patrick L.]

The axle shaft to hub nut is 100-125#. Tighten to about 100# and then tighten until cotter can be installed. If you're talking about the wheel fasteners/lug nuts, they are 55#.

[Terry, NJ]

I'm not understanding too well. By "Torque Craft" do you mean Kraft, Starke ? Kraft and Starke mean power, strength I think. I think you are asking how much Torque on the rear axle shaft nut? The specifications call for 100 Lbs (English) Metric? I don't know. It's one Foot, about a 30 centimeters radius long wrench, with about 45 kilos turning force. I hope this helps you! Gluck Auf!
Terry

Originally Posted by Werner

Hello,


who knows the force for turn on the rear shaft drum nuts?


It means the torque craft with torque wrench.


Thanks in advance!

[Brentwood Bob]

Lug nuts are 50-55 foot pounds.
Rear axle shaft nut is 100 foot pounds.
Source is Brattons catalog.

[Jim/GA]

Rear axle shaft nut torque:

Drehmoment der Hinterachsschaftmutter:
100-125 foot-pounds = 135-170 N-m

[Bruce of MN]

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Here is my tool for resisting the torque (dual purpose brake adjusting gauge):

[Werner]

Good morning,


many thanks at all for helping. Also the nice discription "30 cm mit 45 kg". ;-)


"Hau Ruck"!

[Jim Brierley]

I torque the nut and do not put the cotter pin in until after I have driven the car around the block, re-tighten and then install the pin. This insures that the axle and hub are seated-in properly.

[WHN]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

Here is my tool for resisting the torque (dual purpose brake adjusting gauge):

After seeing this. I’m am going to make one. Great idea. Enjoy.

[Werner]

Hello,

I have now torqued the shaft nut. But on one side I can hear and feel a little bit noise, if I turn the drum click-cklick vorward/retard. I think, it is light tolerance between shaftbar (new) and drum.

Before I put one spicer (Snyders) at the konus.

May be possible, that I must take two spicers? Is that right?

[Terry, NJ]

Werner, I admire your courage! I don't have the courage to try to answer you in my terrible German, So we will first have to translate a few words.
Vorward--Forward , For ignition the word is advance
Shaftbar - Axle ?
Spicer- Spacer or what we call a Shim
Konus - ?????
I believe you can put two spacers/shims between these parts. This is not something I'm very familiar with so someone else may say no you shouldn't.
Terry

Bitte! Ich Lerne Deutsch!

Originally Posted by Werner

Hello,

I have now torqued the shaft nut. But on one side I can hear and feel a little bit noise, if I turn the drum click-cklick vorward/retard. I think, it is light tolerance between shaftbar (new) and drum.

Before I put one spicer (Snyders) at the konus.

May be possible, that I must take two spicers? Is that right?

[Werner]

Hello Terry,

thank you for the nice words!

If I turn the brake drum (or wheel) a little bit left/right, it knocks, because there is too much tolerance/not allowed clearance between the parts.


"Shaftbar" means the bar (Snyders: ) "Rear axle key 4243" between axle shaft and drum's hub.

"Spicer" means (Snyders: ) "Rear Axle Shim".

"Konus" means the axle shaft where gets smaler in front direction.

[wmws]

I think maybe the brake drum is rubbing on a brake shoe. Not enough clearance. You could put a rear axle shim between the drum and axle and see if that helps. You can also see if there are any shiny spots on the inside of the drum to see just where it is rubbing.

[Jynx]

Was over your way a couple years ago and was talking to a guy that had 5 Model A 's He was around Verden ..He worked in a Mercedes resto shop...Heading back this year .

[whirnot]

Werner, check to see if the pin in the parking brake linkage is in correctly, the cotter pin should be on the back side. If not the end of the pin will click,click on the back side of the wheel studs.

[Terry, NJ]

Werner, we have several words for the sounds of contact between parts. First of all, is it a metallic (metal to metal) or is it metal to the brake shoe material?
Scuffing - the parts just "kissing" (Kusse) each other? If it's only a scuffing between the drum and the shoe, it will go away in time.
Scraping- Usually a metal to metal sound that is more serious and must be corrected.
Knocking - Parts falling into place with such impact that you can hear the parts hitting each other. Such as loose engine bearings.

OK ,Shaftbar is an axle key. I would think that it would be Schloss oder Geschlosse.

Spicer/spacer It's "spacer" when we have a large gap to fill and "shim" when the gap or movement is 3 mm or less.

Konus - I should have seen this! But did not! This is the English word "Cone". We use the word "Tapered" (Big at one end, smaller at the other end) Yes, The axles are tapered.

So we have a better understanding of what each side is talking about now. It makes things easier. Too bad our American educational system doesn't emphasize other languages. Mein Grossvader war auf Deutschland im jahr 1875. Und Ich wollen zu lerne Deutsch, aber Nicht!
Terry

Originally Posted by Werner

Hello Terry,

thank you for the nice words!

If I turn the brake drum (or wheel) a little bit left/right, it knocks, because there is too much tolerance/not allowed clearance between the parts.


"Shaftbar" means the bar (Snyders: ) "Rear axle key 4243" between axle shaft and drum's hub.

"Spicer" means (Snyders: ) "Rear Axle Shim".

"Konus" means the axle shaft where gets smaler in front direction.

[katy]

If one uses a .005" axle shim it will move the hub out on the axle a lot more than .005".
Anyone know how much? Or how to calculate it?

[Jim Brierley]

I wouldn't use axle shims (spacers) unless absolutely necessary, they can cause problems after awhile. You probably don't need them, put the car together and drive it for a few kilos, the brakes will probably wear-in. ( wear the high spots down) I spent 14 months in Nurnberg, the people were great!

[Benson]

Originally Posted by Werner

Hello,

I have now torqued the shaft nut. But on one side I can hear and feel a little bit noise, if I turn the drum click-cklick vorward/retard. I think, it is light tolerance between shaftbar (new) and drum.

Before I put one spicer (Snyders) at the konus.

May be possible, that I must take two spicers? Is that right?

See red above.

My German is about as good as my Vietnamese or Hmong ... maybe Werner is referring to the "play" or "slop" in spider gears to Axle gear with one wheel on the ground?

Maybe someone can translate?

Maybe one axle gear is worn more than the other side so there is "slop" one side only?

Is there actual movement between hub and axle when it clicks?

If nut is tightened to 110 lbs then there should not be movement.

If turning drum, without wheel mounted, and it clicks ... Are studs swaged to hub/drum?

[Werner]

Hello A Model user.


There are two mistakes. 'Whirnot' wrote to check the pin of the parking brake. That was my mistake on the left side. The pin hole was outside and the cutter pin sleeves on the backsides of the drum bolts. That's fixed. Many thanks!



But the main problem is the loose drum after torquen the axle nut. There remains install clearance between tapered axle shaft - axle key - drum hub. It means a little, little rotation moovement turning right/left. Hard metallic noise.


Playing the drum a little bit right/left, the driveshaft knocks.


Therefore I took 1 peece shim into the drum hub. The problem got better, but not enough. Therefore I ask, it's o. k. if I take a second shim on the tapered shaft? Or arise this other problems?


I hope, this is understand?


Thanks especialy to Terry for helpfull words! Vielen Dank aus Aachen!