leaky drip from my head

[materguru]

I have a newly rebuilt flathead...49' Merc and I did most of the upper and an engine builder "Dreamwerks" did the internals. That being said, I have a couple of studs that are leaking on the drivers side...if that matters. I was told by a friend out west in CA that should know much as he deals with these motors. He said to pull the problem stud/s and dope them up with a good RTV and that should/would do it. I did that and its still leaking but not anywhere near as bad but I haven't run the engine much more than to tune it at this point. I was also told by some Flatty guys that a lot of times they seal or quit leaking on their on..as you put more miles on it. I would like some qualified advise on fixing the stud leaks please. I know all the funny answers so please something helpful.

[Kube]

If it's just a small amount, run it for a while. it usually will seal itself.
You can, if you like, add some Alumaseal® to the cooling system. This is the powdered aluminum stuff that comes in a tube about the size of a roll of quarters. It stays in motion except where it finds a leak. In other words, no worries about clogging anything you don't want clogged.

[materguru]

Originally Posted by Kube

If it's just a small amount, run it for a while. it usually will seal itself.
You can, if you like, add some Alumaseal® to the cooling system. This is the powdered aluminum stuff that comes in a tube about the size of a roll of quarters. It stays in motion except where it finds a leak. In other words, no worries about clogging anything you don't want clogged.

Thanks so far. Interesting about the seal stuff. I have "Evans" waterless in the coolant system so I don't know if that would effect the cooling properties but I can check if need be.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by materguru

I have a newly rebuilt flathead...49' Merc and I did most of the upper and an engine builder "Dreamwerks" did the internals. That being said, I have a couple of studs that are leaking on the drivers side...if that matters. I was told by a friend out west in CA that should know much as he deals with these motors. He said to pull the problem stud/s and dope them up with a good RTV and that should/would do it. I did that and its still leaking but not anywhere near as bad but I haven't run the engine much more than to tune it at this point. I was also told by some Flatty guys that a lot of times they seal or quit leaking on their on..as you put more miles on it. I would like some qualified advise on fixing the stud leaks please. I know all the funny answers so please something helpful.

Tell us....Was a TAP run through the head bolt threads in the block before assembly? DD
.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I like to use aviation or non hardening permatex on cylinder head studs or bolt threads. I recently had one on my 21 stud engine seeping a drop or two occasionally after doing some necessary work that required replacing the head gasket. I just left it alone and it eventually sealed itself.

[Lawson Cox]

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Sinus problem??? The devil made me do it.

[deuce_roadster]

It is my opinion that ANY stud or bolt that goes into the water jacket must have a thread sealer of some type on it. I only use silicone sealer on overhead aluminum intakes at the front and rear at the block. Also I have an old style sealant powder that radiator shops use that I also put into the coolant. Whether it is a flathead or modern overhead this has never failed me.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Sinus problem??? The devil made me do it.

He knows all the funnies already. 😖

[Bored&Stroked]

If you're checking with Evans, you might ask them if it is okay to use a 'waterglass' type of sealer (some call it a ceramic sealer). This stuff works extremely well on these sorts of issues - the brand that I use is:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/35500/10002/-1

Given what Evans is all about (it is not a water product), my guess is that you'd drain/save the Evans, flush with water and then use the Ceramic seal (following the instructions to the letter). Then once you knew the system was sealing, you'd drain the water and follow the instructions from Evans to put it back into the system.

[tubman]

Or, maybe not put it back when the plain water works fine.

[Alaska Jim]

Did you retorque the heads after each heat cycle for 3 cycles? This may help, or even cure the problem

[flatjack9]

Just run plain water until it stops leaking. The leak will usually rust up in short order'

[materguru]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Tell us....Was a TAP run through the head bolt threads in the block before assembly? DD
.

probably, i dont know. they were navarro heads from H&H

[materguru]

yeah he is a riot

[materguru]

i like the radiator powder and the like. will try and update. thanks

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by materguru

probably, i dont know. they were navarro heads from H&H

Runing a TAP (rather than a THREAD CHASER) through those holes likely helped them to leak. Those bolt holes are a special, tightly-fit thread to aid in sealing against leaks using factory head bolts. DD
.

[aussie merc]

run hot and retorque again and again

[GSCOV]

white pepper is what the older guys say. My father used to open up a cigarette and put it in the radiator when it had a leak Lol. true story.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by GSCOV

white pepper is what the older guys say. My father used to open up a cigarette and put it in the radiator when it had a leak Lol. true story.

My Dad used to open-up a cigarette and smear it all over the welt any time I got a bee sting as a creepy LITTLE kid. DD

.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

My Dad used to open-up a cigarette and smear it all over the welt any time I got a bee sting as a creepy LITTLE kid. DD

.

If my Dad had thought about doing that, his thrifty mindset would have had him scrounge a couple of stinking Camel butts for the task rather than to waste a perfectly good whole cigarette.

My older brother got it right with a mud pie on my sting.