new battery goin dead

[jerrytocci]

The only wireing is the ignition . My question is ....can an ignition switch that is left on kill battery

[Bob C]

Yes if the points are closed.

[JKY]

Sure, the points being closed will short the battery to ground and kill it.

[Mister Moose]

Originally Posted by JKY

Sure, the points being closed will short the battery to ground and kill it.

Wouldn't the coil get quite hot if that were the case?

In any event, if you have a mystery battery drain like that and it isn't obvious, I'd recommend taking off the negative battery cable and put an ohmmeter between the disconnected negative cable and ground. It should read infinity, or very high, or open. If you get something less than 1,000 ohms, start looking for frayed wires, accessories left on, something. (That's for a positive ground system which is original)

If the battery fails and you have over 1,000 ohms, you have a bad battery.

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by Mister Moose

Wouldn't the coil get quite hot if that were the case?

In any event, if you have a mystery battery drain like that and it isn't obvious, I'd recommend taking off the negative battery cable and put an ohmmeter between the disconnected negative cable and ground. It should read infinity, or very high, or open. If you get something less than 1,000 ohms, start looking for frayed wires, accessories left on, something. (That's for a negative ground system which is original)

If the battery fails and you have over 1,000 ohms, you have a bad battery.

I was of the opinion that positive ground was the original.

[Mister Moose]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by McMimmcs

I was of the opinion that positive ground was originally.

Of course. Brain freeze. Edited the error.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by jerrytocci

The only wireing is the ignition. My question is ....can an ignition switch that is left on kill battery

Originally Posted by Mister Moose

Wouldn't the coil get quite hot if that were the case?

In any event, if you have a mystery battery drain like that and it isn't obvious, I'd recommend taking off the negative battery cable and put an ohmmeter between the disconnected negative cable and ground. It should read infinity, or very high, or open. If you get something less than 1,000 ohms, start looking for frayed wires, accessories left on, something. (That's for a negitive ground system which is original)

If the battery fails and you have over 1,000 ohms, you have a bad battery.

Well first off the OP said the only wiring is the ignition circuit so he shouldn't have to look too far. Second if he does as you suggest and does have a short he will be putting 6 volts directly thru his ohmmeter. Not a good idea.

[arnhemmer]

Mine had a low current draw, a cutoff switch solved the problem.

[J Franklin]

Charge the battery and disconnect it then see if it discharges. It might not be the fault of the A

[eagle]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

Well first off the OP said the only wiring is the ignition circuit so he shouldn't have to look too far. Second if he does as you suggest and does have a short he will be putting 6 volts directly thru his ohmmeter. Not a good idea.

No, the battery will be out of the circuit. He should probably have said check the resistance between the removed cable and CHASSIS. I'm sure that's what he meant. Myself, I'd leave the battery in the circuit by putting an ammeter between the removed cable and the battery post.
On another note, draining a battery repeatedly will destroy it. Until the issue is figured out you should remove a battery cable when you park. Also put a trickle charger on the battery for at least a day or two after draining it.

[Mister Moose]

Originally Posted by eagle

No, the battery will be out of the circuit. He should probably have said check the resistance between the removed cable and CHASSIS. I'm sure that's what he meant. Myself, I'd leave the battery in the circuit by putting an ammeter between the removed cable and the battery post.
On another note, draining a battery repeatedly will destroy it. Until the issue is figured out you should remove a battery cable when you park. Also put a trickle charger on the battery for at least a day or two after draining it.

Chassis/ground, same thing. Yes, a sensitive enough ammeter in series would show the amount of mystery drain. Most cars have a fuse at the starter, you could also disconnect that when you leave the car.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Mister Moose

Wouldn't the coil get quite hot if that were the case?

In any event, if you have a mystery battery drain like that and it isn't obvious, I'd recommend taking off the negative battery cable and put an ohmmeter between the disconnected negative cable and ground. It should read infinity, or very high, or open. If you get something less than 1,000 ohms, start looking for frayed wires, accessories left on, something. (That's for a negative ground system which is original)

If the battery fails and you have over 1,000 ohms, you have a bad battery.

Originally Posted by eagle

No, the battery will be out of the circuit. He should probably have said check the resistance between the removed cable and CHASSIS. I'm sure that's what he meant. Myself, I'd leave the battery in the circuit by putting an ammeter between the removed cable and the battery post.
On another note, draining a battery repeatedly will destroy it. Until the issue is figured out you should remove a battery cable when you park. Also put a trickle charger on the battery for at least a day or two after draining it.

Yes confusing because at first he said it was negative ground then changed it to positive ground.

Regardless I believe he has his answer, leaving the key on will drain the battery. As he said in the first post

Originally Posted by jerrytocci

The only wireing is the ignition . My question is ....can an ignition switch that is left on kill battery

[Mister Moose]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

Yes confusing because at first he said it was negative ground then changed it to positive ground.

Yeah, it's like being left handed vs right handed, negative ground just flows out of my fingers onto the keyboard!

[Patrick L.]

To check for the battery draw, it really makes no difference whether the test light is connected between the positive or negative leads. It'll still light the light if the draw is there.

And if the points are closed there will be a draw and the coil will get hot.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by arnhemmer

Mine had a low current draw, a cutoff switch solved the problem.

OK, but why not find and fix the draw. Unless you're using an alternator and thats what drawing.

[jerrytocci]

I only have ignition wired for now . Meter shows it charging when it runs

[Jeff/Illinois]

As a matter of safety I always just pulled the NEG cable off after I shut the Model A down after a drive. And if I was going to let it sit more than a month or so I'd hook up a trickle charger until it was charged and then unhook that.

[woofa.express]

I have found 6V batteries have a shorter life compared with 12V.
Now my 6V has died I have made the decision to convert. I believe it is important to change the starter at the same time otherwise the impact on engagement is far too severe and sooner or later something has to fail.

[jerrytocci]

this is a build in progress . the only wires are what is needed to run engine and charge battery. the ampmeter shows a 10amp charge when it runs . battery voltage read 2.75 volts this morning and it has been on a charger since that reading was taken.

[glyn]

maybe if he had the mete in a current reading mode?

[Don S]

No need to change the starter to a 12volt one , my 6 volt starter has worked well on 12 volts for over 20 years. Keep in mind that 12 volts spins the starter faster, but for less time to start your engine , if ignition and carb are up to snuff.

[J Franklin]

I think the concern with 12V is the starter drive.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Is your cut out stuck shut?

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by jerrytocci

this is a build in progress . the only wires are what is needed to run engine and charge battery. the ampmeter shows a 10amp charge when it runs . battery voltage read 2.75 volts this morning and it has been on a charger since that reading was taken.

Have you checked for a draw ?

If you have a draw then its either a bad ignition switch or generator cut-out.

If there is no draw then it seems like you have a bad battery.

You really shouldn't need a 10 amp charge rate.

[big job]

Originally Posted by jerrytocci

I only have ignition wired for now . Meter shows it charging when it runs

woh hold on; you have only the Ign wired for now, then why does the amp meter show a charge??? you have to have the generator wire hooked up only way it will show a charge.
if so take that wire off now what? All electric now should be dead. But anything is
possible like the ignitions switch is really not off so take that wire off the coil and see

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by big job

woh hold on; you have only the Ign wired for now, then why does the amp meter show a charge??? you have to have the generator wire hooked up only way it will show a charge.
if so take that wire off now what? All electric now should be dead. But anything is
possible like the ignitions switch is really not off so take that wire off the coil and see

See post 19, he posted there that he also has the charging circuit hooked up.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

It is possible you just got a bad battery. It has happened to me in the past on my 12V battery late model cars/trucks.

On new batteries I do not trust the stores, and before use check the level in them to make sure the level is over the plates and then put the battery on a maintained/charger. Some stores simply put the acid in them and do not charge the batteries, this does not fully charge them. The stores rely on your generator/alternator providing a full 1st charge. Recheck the fluid level.

After charging I use this load tester on them, is inexpensive at harbor freight, also available on amazon.
https://www.harborfreight.com/100a-6...ter-61747.html.

I have caught 2 new 12V new batteries bad this way. I also do this procedure on all my batteries in late fall. Started this many years back when in an emergency due to a bad battery when on the road. Towed to a dealer, they installed a new GM Delco battery and tested the charging system for big bucks. 20 months later the battery went dead. They neglected to tell me that their batteries only had a warranty of 18 months.

I would take the battery back and get a new one. Freshen your battery connections, could have corrosion or paint. Install a digital ammeter capable of measuring low current in series with the battery, If you have an digital ammeter with a peak hold feature it will hold the reading of max current measured for display. Turn on the ignition with the points open , do not start it. Let it sit overnight.

[Mister Moose]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

It is possible you just got a bad battery. It has happened to me in the past on my 12V battery late model cars/trucks.

On new batteries I do not trust the stores, and before use check the level in them to make sure the level is over the plates and then put the battery on a maintained/charger. Some stores simply put the acid in them and do not charge the batteries, this does not fully charge them. The stores rely on your generator/alternator providing a full 1st charge. Recheck the fluid level.

After charging I use this load tester on them, is inexpensive at harbor freight, also available on amazon.
https://www.harborfreight.com/100a-6...ter-61747.html.

I have caught 2 new 12V new batteries bad this way. I also do this procedure on all my batteries in late fall. Started this many years back when in an emergency due to a bad battery when on the road. Towed to a dealer, they installed a new GM Delco battery and tested the charging system for big bucks. 20 months later the battery went dead. They neglected to tell me that their batteries only had a warranty of 18 months.

I would take the battery back and get a new one. Freshen your battery connections, could have corrosion or paint. Install a digital ammeter capable of measuring low current in series with the battery, If you have an digital ammeter with a peak hold feature it will hold the reading of max current measured for display. Turn on the ignition with the points open , do not start it. Let it sit overnight.

This is good advice.

To which I'll add:

Yes, batteries are not fully charged when initially filled with acid. Add to that a car alternator is a very poor way of charging initially if all you do is drive a few miles. They really need to be on a charger, trickle or otherwise, for a good 24 hours. They should be brought up to 14-14.4 volts for that long a time. A really small trickle charge might not do that. But anything for initial charging is better than nothing.

With really big, really expensive, really important batteries, this is far more relevant. By comparison, car batteries are cheap and most people don't do this, and still get acceptable service life. Any full discharge weakens the battery.

Another really good really easy test method is specific gravity. Get an electrolyte tester, turkey baster style, with a calibrated float, not the 5 colored balls. Test every cell after fully charging overnight. Any low cell condemns the battery. The reading of the weakest cell gives you a very good idea of percent life left in the battery.

Also, check for even electrolyte level, and be aware that after the first full charge cells might need to be topped off. Most battery experts advise to never add acid after this initial leveling, only water. With any modern sealed acid battery, this is moot.

Battery cases are dated now. You have no idea how long they've been on the shelf wet-charged. Look for a recent date.