wont start after typhoon

[maako]

after every typhoon my 29 roadster is very hard to start. after I get it to start then its fine after that.

[Mike V. Florida]

Moisture on the points. The sparks from trying to start drys them out. Very common on worn/dirty pionts.

[Flathead]

Salt water conducts electricity, a damp film of it will give you trouble.

[pgerhardt]

A 28 or 29 model A Roadster in Japan, Cool! That car must have a great back story.

[Synchro909]

Maako, Please tell us the story behind the A in Japan. I bet with all the patina the car in your avatar has, you have people falling over themselves to look at it.
Have you ever tried putting a Toyota badge on it?

[PC/SR]

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My first smart A** thought was keep away from typhoons.
As a serious thought, put a plastic bag over the distributor and carb with rubber bands to seal them. Maybe the gas tank filler too. Wipe down the brass leads to the spark plugs before starting. Maybe spray them with WD40. I too would like to know the story of an A in Japan. You have a good looking car.

[bobpo1]

Congratulations on the Roadster. I love the avatar. Could you show all of us more photos and tell us what you do with your Roadster? Apparently I'm not the only one who is curious about you and your car. We're just a naturally curious bunch and you've struck an attention nerve.


BTW, I had the same problem with starting after a high humidity period. It gave me fits. Had to dry everything electrical relating to the ignition...........

[maako]

I posted a bunch of pics on this post. https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154889

I got the car from a friend who got it from a local Japanese guy on Okinawa, it was last registered in Tokyo about 20 years ago. the speedometer shows about 27,000 kilometers on it but I don't think they came with the kilo speedometer. I had to replace the head gasket, at the time I inspected the valves, pistons, cylinders and it looks like the mileage matches the inside of the engine. all I had to do is a little lite wire brushing to remove some carbon on the valves and piston tops. I cleaned out the valve cover area of the oil to inspect the area and had no issues so I just dumped a QT. of oil back in that area and sealed it back up. the oil line is a little odd, it is split with a hose in the middle, I think its for the fit of the aluminum cover. I tried the spare I got with it but it would not fit with the aluminum or stock cover. found crack in the original cover so I put the aluminum cover back on.
Japan has no antique car laws so I have to put all the safety equipment on it, blinkers, dual tail lights seat belts, front and back plates, and the law states no rust on the springs so I need to do some under coating. I am down to under coating and I need to replace the speedometer then I can start my registration inspection.

[Tom Wesenberg]

When the points are closed and the key is on, both points contacts should show zero volts if the distributor has a good ground. Due to light oxidation the movable contact may show 1 to 6 volts. You can clean it with a points file, or fine sandpaper or emery cloth, or even drawing a strip of cereal box through the contacts.