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01-14-2021, 03:26 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Gulf Shores, AL
Posts: 78
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Thermostat update.
In a previous post I told about not being able to get up to operating temperature since I installed engine pans. I drove around for a while with a cardboard shield over my radiator, but still couldn't get above 110 degrees. I did check my temperature gauge in hot water against a thermometer and the gauge was functioning well.
Today I installed a Vintage thermostat assembly and took a test drive. The thermostat in the kit was set for 160 degrees and that's exactly where the engine temperature gauge stayed. It was a pretty simple installation other than having to remove the hood so I could tilt the radiator in order to get a new radiator hose in place. I'm very happy and if I should have any issues down the road, I'll be certain to post those as well. |
01-14-2021, 03:43 PM | #2 |
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Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Re: Thermostat update.
You don't have to tip the radiator to get a hose on. Just remove the top of the T-stat housing (4 bolts). Easy-Peasy.
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01-14-2021, 06:57 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Thermostat update.
Quote:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01-14-2021, 08:41 PM | #4 |
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Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
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Re: Thermostat update.
I just wish they made one that would fit a Riley head.
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1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? |
01-15-2021, 07:59 AM | #5 |
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Re: Thermostat update.
Put a thermostat in the upper radiator hose instead of the head.
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Bob Bidonde |
01-15-2021, 01:44 PM | #6 |
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Re: Thermostat update.
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1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? |
01-15-2021, 02:29 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Gulf Shores, AL
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Re: Thermostat update.
Carl,
I didn't read the installation instructions closely enough as well as rushing the job. I made the mistake of putting on the unit before I checked the clearance for the temp sender (as instructed) and I didn't want to remove and clean the new RTV sealant. The upper hose had to be replaced because it had the mid-hose mount for the temperature sending probe. At least it went on the first time. Normally it takes me three attempts before I get it right. |
01-19-2021, 07:34 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 63
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Re: Thermostat update.
I put a Brattons 160 degree thermostat in my 1929 coupe, in the upper hose at the top. It works good, I used to see a lot of light colored oil from moisture in the oil filter when I changed oil. Since I have installed the thermostat the engine warms up quick and no moisture in the oil, I do a lot of short trips and the engine never heated up until I installed it. Engines no matter what kind must get to a certain temp to operate at peak performance and rid itself from condensation.
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01-19-2021, 11:01 AM | #9 |
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Re: Thermostat update.
I'll second that!
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01-20-2021, 12:25 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 57
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Re: Thermostat update.
The advantage of operating internal combustion engines at an elevated temperature has been proven to reduce engine wear, but engine failure that may have been precipitated by the installation of a thermostat in a Model A engine is cause for concern as noted in this article.
http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...tat-Theory.pdf |
01-20-2021, 01:47 AM | #11 |
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Location: Anaheim California
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Re: Thermostat update.
We all knew a thermostat would help you get it up.
Richard Anaheim CA |
01-20-2021, 04:58 AM | #12 | |
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Location: Denmark, Northern Europe
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Re: Thermostat update.
Quote:
But wouldn't a (number of) bypass hole(s) be able to ensure a persistent minimum waterflow? \Dan |
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01-20-2021, 09:44 AM | #13 | |
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Location: Jordan, MN
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Re: Thermostat update.
Quote:
For years, I have enlarged the two holes to 3/16" in the thermostat shown in a previous post by Bob Bidonde. I then add two additional 3/16" holes. The thermostat still functions but it takes longer for it to do so. I have not had any problem with #4 cylinder when using the modified thermostats. My original reason for adding the holes was I wanted the initial warm-up to be more gradual so all areas of the engine come to the higher temp more uniformly. I was concerned with the two back cylinders and pistons overheating after reading an article many years ago about the water flow to the rear of the engine being marginal. I also worked on many customers engines that showed some scoring on the pistons adjoining the "siamese" area between cylinders 3 & 4. I cannot say for sure if the modified thermostat is the reason I have not experienced an issue with the rear two cylinders as I also make it a practice of honing a bit more clearance (couple ten thousandths) on the rear two cylinders when rebuilding engines. I know...it's not a normal practice to provide a bit more clearance on the rear two cylinders but it works for me. I have not noticed anything negative to using both practices to keep the engines running. Cylinder compression, cylinder leak down tests and carbon buildup in the combustion chamber all appear to be equal between the cylinders. Good Day! Last edited by Dave in MN; 01-20-2021 at 10:10 AM. |
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01-20-2021, 11:33 AM | #14 |
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Location: Connecticut Shoreline
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Re: Thermostat update.
I have mentioned this many times over the years, sorry for doing it again.
For all of us old enough to remember, back in the day, thermostats were removed from cars in the spring and put back in in the fall. There was a reason car owners did this. Cars over heating or running hot in the summer heat. Cars today have water pumps installed were the water comes into the engine, not at the point water leaves. Also, the syphon effect was used not only for the Model T, without a water pump, but also with the help of a water pump on the Model A. Technology has come along way since 1928. Enjoy. |
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