Stuck Cylinder Head Stud

[Ed in Maine]

I have a cylinder head stud that appears it may be stuck in the block. I don't want to break it. What are some hints to extract this cylinder head stud? Thank you, Ed

[katy]

Is the cylinder head off the engine? More information would be helpful.

[Jim Brierley]

I agree with Katy but if it is still on, soak that stud area with the rust penetrant of your choice, adding the liquid as often as needed. Soak for several days before trying again. Tapping with a hammer periodically will help. Tap, not sledge hammer it.

[ronn]

I have used a pipe wrench with good success and then just replaced the stud.

[macdonge]

Patience! Assuming the head is off, soaking the stud/head interface with penetrant and, after letting it sit for hours/days (sometimes), alternating with a propane torch on the stud coupled with melting some wax into the interface. I had to do this recently with a half dozen of the studs on my block. All eventually came out fine.

[barkleydave]

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When I replaced a head I had one stud I could not get out to replace with new so I left it in. I figured it did not leak... threads were good so why invite trouble. Everything worked out fine. Most of them came out easily with stud remover.

[Gene F]

Assuming the head is off, patience is the key. Use Kroil if ya have it. You can also try PB Blaster. The beeswax thing works too, as I see that commonly done on exhaust manifold studs of cars from the 60s and 70s all the time. A helper will be a good idea if doing the bees wax thing. A light hammer with a sharp tap to get the wrench moving might be good since you likely can't get a pneumatic impact rigged up on to it. I know if I have a bolt or nut that I fear of breaking off I soak it, then slowly keep bumping the air up on my impact gun.

[Joe K]

Ares 70016 is a tool which "grabs" a stud - and in the process of removing the stud, actually "tightens." Think a jacobs drill chuck which works in reverse.

Can be used either with a socket wrench, or can be used with an impact wrench.

I find it works best with the impact, to the point of like 20 minutes to remove a head stud using a pipe wrench/pb-blaster/and a small hammer (vibration helps the PB Blaster and break the rust-bond) reduced to like 2 minutes/stud or less without anything else but the Ares Tool/impact wrench.

I was like 2 hours to remove 4 studs with the old method - breaking/ruining two - to less than 20 minutes to remove the rest of the studs. And they all came out "usable" with minor clean-up.

It works certainly by putting "lines" into the stud - think a pipe-wrench - but the lines are "linear" with the stud and don't reduce its strength. Even across the threaded portion. And the threaded portion when cleaned up with a thread reformer (best) or a die can be used again.

I bought this one from Amazon - probably the best price out there and I had Amazon Prime so shipping was already paid for (no free shipping with Prime, just paid in advance.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't speak too highly of this tool.

Joe K

[old31]

Joe, I bought the Ares 70016 from Amazon also and it is a great tool.

I never thought of using an impact wrench with it, duh.

[chrs1961815]

I have the same tool as joe. Works great. I used it on an unrestored block that was rusty and only broke two.

[CT Jack]

Try welding the nut to the stud. Then use a battery or pneumatic power impact gun. I would not use a lever type wrench as the applied offset torque could cause the stud to yield prematurely and break.

[johnneilson]

The key to welding the nut to the stud is to use the shrinkage of the stud to loosen in the block. I typically cut the stud off about a 1/4" above the deck and use a 1/2" nut. This allows the stud to center the nut and I use a TIG torch to apply the heat to the stud. Finish the weld by filling the nut to the top and let it air cool.

This also works to remove valve seats, turn a valve down to fit inside the seat and weld, it will loosen the seat and fall out.
J

[Joe K]

This also works to remove valve seats, turn a valve down to fit inside the seat and weld, it will loosen the seat and fall out.

Gosh, a LOT of smart people out there.

Thanks!

Joe K
Who until he bought a MIG, could at best "stick stuff together."

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by ronn

I have used a pipe wrench with good success and then just replaced the stud.

I would be very leary of a pipe wrench. For one, it’s putting pressure sideways on the stud. Ive broken a couple myself. If you want to try to turn it out that way, you’re better off using double nuts with two wrenches likes tee wrench. Another way is with two vise grips in a tee. That way you’re putting equal pressure on the stud. The best way is with heat, kroil, and the self tightning tool and air ratchet as mentioned previously.

[ronn]

I hear you Chuck- but Ive never had a problem.


I have the "gentle touch".

[Mark in MT]

I have a theory of thirds when it comes to taking out studs, 1 third will come out no problem, 1 third will make you sweat, soak and tap, then will come out, and the last third will require more work. Heating, soaking, tapping, praying, rinse and repeat. I pull to about 90% of what it will take to twist off a stud, trying in both directions. When you sense movement work it back and forth until it either comes out whole or the top falls off. Some will twist off no matter how long you fuss with them. I cheat and use a mill to drill them out, so I am braver than most.

Mark